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What the current Aiyima A07 actually needs.

Midnight Audiophile

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Just finished drilling this one and shooting the video. I should have it up later today or by tomorrow. I'm Midnight Audiophile on YT.
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andrewjohn007

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That's awesome! Thank you again! I'll take a crack at my A07 and let you all know how it goes. The A04 is a little bit narrower, but modding the template will be super easy,, barely an inconvenience.
 
OP
Scrufboy

Scrufboy

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I'm not sure I could do this in my tiny, ill equipped NYC apartment. If you want to make a quick $20
Just finished drilling this one and shooting the video. I should have it up later today or by tomorrow. I'm Midnight Audiophile on YT.View attachment 221262View attachment 221263View attachment 221264

That looks really good. If you want to make a quick $20 I'd pay to ship my lid both ways. Just reach out. If not. Perhaps provide the template and tell me what I need to purchase. Bit size, scratch awl, etc.
 
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Midnight Audiophile

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andrewjohn007

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OP
Scrufboy

Scrufboy

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It appears the Chinese haven't worked out that extruded fin heatsinks don't work when placed horizontally and particularly, when placed in a sealed box with no airflow. There's no hope for these absolute idiots.

Anyone who buys this garbage deserves exactly what they get.
Well, we're solving that. It isn't garbage though... Drilling a set of holes isn' t that hard really. For some of us impossible... But thankfully there are a scant few who can help. Even if you have to do it yourself. My A07 is doing quite well. Powered well, cooled even better. Follow our lead and modify this desktop beast.
 

maxchau

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My experience with Op amp rollings with A07 has been noticeably different, if the speakers used are of high resolution. (McIntosh XRT18 in my case.) The three chips tested were 5532, muses8920 and opa1656. 1656 being the one to my liking. 8920 second yet may be preferred by different user. Muses01 is my favorite but not tested for not risking bent legs.
 
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rbryantaz

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Instead of drilling has anyone tried using a block of aluminum(solid or square tube), or a heat sink on its side that connects directly from the chip to the case? If the tolerance is right it could touch directly and transfer heat to the case via some thermal paste. A finned heat sink could then also be glued to the top of the case with thermal glue if desired.

I am considering this for my A07 and for another custom 5 channel tpa3116 setup that I am building.

Thanks,

Rich
 

andrewjohn007

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Instead of drilling has anyone tried using a block of aluminum(solid or square tube), or a heat sink on its side that connects directly from the chip to the case? If the tolerance is right it could touch directly and transfer heat to the case via some thermal paste. A finned heat sink could then also be glued to the top of the case with thermal glue if desired.

I am considering this for my A07 and for another custom 5 channel tpa3116 setup that I am building.

Thanks,

Rich
A lot of work and exacting work at that... I like the idea, but for such an inexpensive amp that's never overheated on me at 50V seems excessive. Mind you, I keep my place at 71 degrees
 

john11

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What do you think of upgrading the inductors, what would you use
 
D

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It needs to replace a potentiometer with a stepped attenuator that has a properly designed gain structure.
 

rbryantaz

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A lot of work and exacting work at that... I like the idea, but for such an inexpensive amp that's never overheated on me at 50V seems excessive. Mind you, I keep my place at 71 degrees
For me the block just had to be 1" tall... I had some 1x1.5" stock from another project so I cut it to fit in the case and drilled two holes and mounted it.

I would recommend a 1x1" block because it was a bit close to the caps on each side don't drill quite right it could touch. I then just put some thermal tape on the top and it stuck tightly. I would probably use thermal paste next time so that it isn't hard to remove again.

If it gets at all warm I can add a finned heat sink to the outside of the case with thermal tape or even drill holes to attach it with some screws that self tap into the aluminum (just make sure to take it slow and not to use too small of a drill where the screw could snap off).

So I think it is a better solution than drilling holes in the case. 2 holes is easier than 24 and it makes a lot less aluminum savings to clean up that could short something out if you aren't careful. :)


aiyma a07 heatsink to case left.jpg
aiyma a07 heatsink to case right.jpg
aiyma a07 heatsink to case top.jpg
and if you

-Rich
 

Gruesome

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It appears the Chinese haven't worked out that extruded fin heatsinks don't work when placed horizontally and particularly, when placed in a sealed box with no airflow. There's no hope for these absolute idiots.

Anyone who buys this garbage deserves exactly what they get.
That's just nonsense, John. The heatsink works to transfer heat from the amplifier chip to ambient air in the enclosure, that air transfers heat to the enclosure, and the enclosure outside surface transfers heat to ambient. It's not the most direct process, but there's also not that much heat to get rid off, maybe at most 10 Watt? (100 W amp, 90% efficiency)
(And I do know it's an old thread, but generalizing comments like that are just aggravating.)
 
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rbryantaz

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That's just nonsense, John. The heatsink works to transfer heat from the amplifier chip to ambient air in the enclosure, that air transfers heat to the enclosure, and the enclosure outside surface transfers heat to ambient. It's not the most direct process, but there's also not that much heat to get rid off, maybe at most 10 Watt? (100 W amp, 90% efficiency)
(And I do know it's an old thread, but generalizing comments like that are just aggravating.)

The heat does get out. The reason I added the larger aluminum block that directly contacts the case is so that the inside doesn't have to get hot and heat up all of the other components like the electrolytic caps.

I did the same thing on my DIY outdoor AVR that has 5.1 processing and 5 channels of tpa3116 all in a sealed enclosure...

-Rich
 

john11

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There's a good video by electrician michael beeny on you tube, on how to fit a small 2" fan onto the back of the amp, this appeared to reduce heat more than anything else the reviewer tried. A sealed enclosure with zero air flow is going to cook the amp, this was the problem with the pa5, which topping themselves admitted to
For me i cut the top off the amp, and replaced it with an air mesh filter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155042608520?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338345293&toolid=11000&_ul=UK&var=455211665654&amdata=enc:1CWx7FNbGTRC6PlpOGGseGg91&customid=EAIaIQobChMI_PrHvYnC_wIV1e3tCh2l0gBCEAQYAyABEgIO6vD_BwE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_PrHvYnC_wIV1e3tCh2l0gBCEAQYAyABEgIO6vD_BwE
After trying a lot of things myself, bigger heatsinks is good, more airflow is better. Both ways work
 

Jukka

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That's just nonsense, John. The heatsink works to transfer heat from the amplifier chip to ambient air in the enclosure, that air transfers heat to the enclosure, and the enclosure outside surface transfers heat to ambient. It's not the most direct process, but there's also not that much heat to get rid off, maybe at most 10 Watt? (100 W amp, 90% efficiency)
(And I do know it's an old thread, but generalizing comments like that are just aggravating.)
If that was true, it wouldn't have the heat problems as would no other amp (like Topping PA5).

Air is very inefficient in transferring heat as a conductor. Fans are mandatory to blow heat away (forced convection) from strong heat sources.

It's a basic principle in electronics to allow air flow to avoid overheating.
 
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