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What Receiver for an All-Digital Genelec Hi-Fi System?

danielmiessler

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Hey all, I was talking about Genelec active monitors several months back and finally built out my system.

6418E8AE-40F0-4186-9C2C-D42291159582.jpeg


I have 2 woofer towers, two 8351Bs, and two active subs—all calibrated to work together using GLM.

My current receiver is the Marantz SR6014 9.2 channel which I guess is ok, but I just worry that my analog connections to a “normal” receiver is not taking maximum advantage of this Genelec setup.

So the question is: what receiver should I buy to get the most from this build? I mostly care about playback of the highest quality music, with minimal loss, but I want movies to sound good too.

Any help would be appreciated.

Also, sorry about the cable management. Still looking for a center piece for everything to go on/under.
 

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MinMan

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If your willing to research & experiment, you may find instructions on how to extract an AES / EBU digital signal out of a mainstream receiver.

You may be ok with the 16 channel AES / EBU outputs from a 6+ year old DataSat RS 2.0i, givies you decoding & switching capacity + Dirac ($5K)

The MiniDSP: "https://www.minidsp.com/products/streaming-hd-series/shd-studio" has 4 channels of digital output (not 5 - fewer inputs).

A used Theta CBIII HD ($2K+) with a 12 channel digital output card ($750+) might keep you entertained for years (no ipad App for it) CBIV for +$$$

good luck!
 

dshreter

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I see the center channel, so I’m assuming you want multi-channel home theater capabilities. I’d suggest not to worry about solving for digital and get the receiver with the decoding/ processing/room correction features you want.

Honestly I don’t think you’ll hear a difference with digital and the options to support it are very limited.
 
OP
danielmiessler

danielmiessler

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Hello, yes, I do have a center channel. And also some surrounds.

I was actually having some major trouble with hissing with this Marantz, and while I was researching this receiver issue I discovered the concept of using pre-outs.

I just changed my two front speakers to go into a sub (one on each side), which then went to the woofer and the 8351B, and holy crap!

The hiss is completely gone now, and audio seems very clear! The only downside I see is that I have to turn the volume up to 40-60 to get loud, whereas I was loud at like 20 before. Which makes sense given that the pre-outs are not amplified.

Basically, it seems like this is how you're supposed to run active speakers—by bypassing the receiver's amp and letting the speakers do their own amplification.

Anyway, thought that might be interesting for someone.
 

jae

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Sancus

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The cheapest AVP with digital outs is the JBL SDP-55 ($6000 + Dante hardware). Unfortunately it has a bug that causes ticking over those outputs under some condition which is unresolved.


I was actually having some major trouble with hissing with this Marantz, and while I was researching this receiver issue I discovered the concept of using pre-outs.
Um wut. How were you connecting the speaker terminals to Genelec inputs and ..why God why....

Anyways, a lot depends on your source and budget. There are reasonable digital pro sound cards like https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/8D--motu-8d-usb-avb-interface-with-aes3-and-s-pdif

If your source is HDMI based and requires Atmos/DTS etc decoding this requires an AVR. If you are fine without that stuff and can just use a PC as source then it's no problem.
 

pmrogers-aus

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Hello, yes, I do have a center channel. And also some surrounds.

I was actually having some major trouble with hissing with this Marantz, and while I was researching this receiver issue I discovered the concept of using pre-outs.

I just changed my two front speakers to go into a sub (one on each side), which then went to the woofer and the 8351B, and holy crap!

The hiss is completely gone now, and audio seems very clear! The only downside I see is that I have to turn the volume up to 40-60 to get loud, whereas I was loud at like 20 before. Which makes sense given that the pre-outs are not amplified.

Basically, it seems like this is how you're supposed to run active speakers—by bypassing the receiver's amp and letting the speakers do their own amplification.

Anyway, thought that might be interesting for someone.
>> The only downside I see is that I have to turn the volume up to 40-60 to get loud,

I had this exact issue trying to figure out why my 8341’s on analog couldn’t play as loud as my 8020d’s. It is the pro audio difference in spec for input level. I fixed it using a Radial J+4 Stereo line driver and now, for the rare occasion that I use analog inputs on the 8341s they easily play louder than the 8020D+7050C, as one would expect.
 

RobL

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You have some 8361’s and a 15” sub in your office too?
Wow, Genelec should send you some flowers or a cheese tray or somethin’… :)
 

RobL

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I think you could stay all digital with something like THIS.
 

AndyTheGray

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had to register to offer my 5 cents here... not sure if OP has landed successfully but here it is:

- for stereo setup (or, rather, 2 spk + 2 woofers) - i'd go with anything that has AES/EBU out (say Azur 851N, NAD M50, etc.)
- in parallel (or contemporaneously) i'd connect analogue XLR to something that is at least as good as Yamaha cx-a5200 or Maranzt av8805 (and up)

With this approach OP could save two layouts and have source dictate which is used. Listening to stereo music setup (digital), switched on analogue signal it overwrites digital and switches over to another layout.

Now, interesting element for digital - digital volume leveling isn't easy to come by... hence Genelec GLM volume nob is great. If not then Lyngdorf does parametric digital out. It's COAX but shouldn't be trouble if under few meters.

So, IMHO, i'd put two devices in - Lyngdorf TDAI-3400 for stereo and MP-40 for home theater setup.

I'm enjoying similar except didn't go for woofers, those were no-no on WAF front :) but i got two 7370 which are inside custom cabinet and out of the sight.

BTW, to answer the question, Lyngdorf MP-60 has optional digital out module. So, if only digital is the goal - it would work. However, i'd use this feature of Genelec's to switch between digital and analogue (saves you remote :) based on which signal arrives next.

Also, very interesting results of room correction with GLM first and then Room Perfect of Lyngdorf. Not much difference up to -40dB but then it is great. My guess Lyngdorf knows way better how to handle low freq at high SPL. GLM only setup works to -50dB or, maximum -40dB. Then it's just too much... but if Lyngdorf is there then you could keep going to -20dB and it is still amazing. Except your neighbors from other side of the street start asking what's happening :D
 
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