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What lenses are you currently using?

JeffS7444

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18/2.8 Ricoh (on Ricoh GR)
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dualazmak

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Canon TS-E 17 mm f/4L (Tilt-Shift), EOS 5D Mark II:
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dualazmak

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Canon TS-E 17 mm f/4L (Tilt-Shift), EOS 5D Mark II:
Jpeg quality and/or pixel size reduced for upload acceptance here in ASR Forum post.
Please PM me if you would be interested in the original full size and highest quality jpeg images.
IMG_0744_r2_rs2_q7.JPG


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dualazmak

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Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM + Extender EF 1.4X III, EOS 5D Mark II:
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IMG_2392_r2_rs_q7.JPG


Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM, EOS 5D Mark II:
Jpeg quality and pixel size reduced for upload acceptance here in ASR Forum post.
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IMG_1742_r2_rs_q7.JPG
 
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Gorgonzola

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Canon TS-E 17 mm f/4L (Tilt-Shift), EOS 5D Mark II:
Jpeg quality and/or pixel size reduced for upload acceptance here in ASR Forum post.
Please PM me if you would be interested in the original full size and highest quality jpeg images.
View attachment 244379

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Beautiful pics :)

Your use of a tilt-shift lens, the Canon TS-E 17 mm f/4L, is very interesting; results are obviously excellent. I assume that such lenses are complicated by the fact of the tilt-shift mechanism, but also, (as I surmise), because the coverage area must be larger than usual for a given sensor/film format. Generally these factors will result in a more expensive, larger, heavier lens.

Nowadays much of the distortion that eliminate by tilt-shift can be got using Photoshop or similar software. What are you thoughts on relative merits of tilt-shift versus software correction? Fairly obvious is that relying on software, you must start with a wider angle lens since with software correction will need to crop out some portion of the original image to get a rectangular photo; (this is analogous to needing wider frame coverage on the tilt-shift lens).
 

LTig

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Nowadays much of the distortion that eliminate by tilt-shift can be got using Photoshop or similar software.
You can use software (perspective control) to fix distortion like a shift lense does. The tilt mechanism however changes the plane of sharpness which cannot be done in software.

Another solution to emulate a shift lense is to use a standard lense with a wider angle and position the camera such that the sensor plane is in parallel to what you want to photograph. You sacrifice up to 50% of the resolution but with todays digicams this is no problem.
 
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JeffS7444

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A perspective control lens (or two) is one of my most-wanted optics. Although software corrections can work very well, I've grown accustomed to having a lot of pixels at my disposal, and don't relish losing any if I can help it.

In the case of my panoramas, sometimes my widest lens simply isn't wide enough, and I'm forced to tilt the camera upwards, but the more I do this, the more fan-shaped the merged image becomes, and trickier to crop into a tidy rectangle without sacrificing much of the image.
_DSC2586 uncropped.jpg
 

Destination: Moon

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A perspective control lens (or two) is one of my most-wanted optics. Although software corrections can work very well, I've grown accustomed to having a lot of pixels at my disposal, and don't relish losing any if I can help it.

In the case of my panoramas, sometimes my widest lens simply isn't wide enough, and I'm forced to tilt the camera upwards, but the more I do this, the more fan-shaped the merged image becomes, and trickier to crop into a tidy rectangle without sacrificing much of the image.
View attachment 244440
You could join 2 images to get the width you want. Overlap 2 exposures and join them with a Pano stitch
 

JeffS7444

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50/1 Leica Noctilux, Leica M8
l1001357.jpg

Right out of the box, focusing was off, and the lens had to be shipped back to Leica for warranty repairs - so much for quality control! But they did an alright job of fixing it. But unless bargain-priced, I wouldn't buy one today, as I rarely care for the super shallow DOF look, and even if I did, there's lots more competition in the market for super-fast lenses today.
 
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Gorgonzola

Gorgonzola

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You could join 2 images to get the width you want. Overlap 2 exposures and join them with a Pano stitch
I agree that panorama software can be useful. OTOH, the problem @JeffS7444 mentions with a camera's built-in panorama facility affects stitched photo in exactly the same way. The only real way to deal with it is to use a very wide angle lens where you can crop out a narrower rectangular strip.
 
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Gorgonzola

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50/1 Leica Noctilux, Leica M8
View attachment 244460
Right out of the box, focusing was off, and the lens had to be shipped back to Leica for warranty repairs - so much for quality control! But they did an alright job of fixing it. But unless bargain-priced, I wouldn't buy one today, as I rarely care for the super shallow DOF look, and even if I did, there's lots more competition in the market for super-fast lenses today.
That kinda sucks. What's the point of giga$$$ Leitz lenses if you don't get decent QC?
 

JeffS7444

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25/2.8 Ricoh Auto Half (half frame 35 mm film):
20220928 Colorado Boulder Ricoh Auto Half - 030.jpg
 

JeffS7444

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That kinda sucks. What's the point of giga$$$ Leitz lenses if you don't get decent QC?
More so now than in previous years, Leica's niche is as a luxury-products company, where much of the appeal is not merely as an image-making tool, but rather, the brand seeks to evoke certain emotions. In fact, for a time, they were part of the LVMH consortium, and they've ventured into automatic wristwatches. No one ever said that hand-crafting small batches of cameras and lenses was the best way to achieve consistently high quality in the 21st century, but for those who crave a certain "something", they may be worth the occasional minor inconvenience.
 

pablolie

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I love photography. Just don't trust your results to gear - you are not a serious photographer if you trust your gear to do the job in auto. I have my smartphone for that.

I love fully manual lenses. They provide harsh feedback when I make mistakes. Back in the day, you'd waste film and processing and printing fees (unless you had your own dark room). Those mistakes made you learn. I try to keep that up with digital.

I am an Olympus M43 user (now OM Systems). Have been Olympus since the very late 80s, when I bought my first good camera. My dad was Canon F1 enthusiast -what a camera, but too large and heavy and expensive fr me... my Olympus was awesome since I carried it around on motorcycle trips. Funny thing is that as my Dad got older, he shot with my Olympus at a family event, loved it and bought the top model (showoff :-D). My 28 year old niece still shoots with the F1 and just won a competition - proud of her. She rocks photography.

In any case, the Nokton Voigtlanders are my fav lenses these days. The 42.5/0.95 is spectacular. Also have the 25/0.95 of course. And the fun thing is I can use my 30 year old Olympus 135/2.8 and 50/2.0 which are magnificent lenses. And when I use the 300mm Panasonic (that's 600mm for FF people) I feel like I am cheating... :)
 

Offler

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I usually carry Olympus EM-5 Mark III body with:
M. Zuiko 12-40mm F2.8 - equal to 24-80mm on FF sensors.
Lumix G X 35-100mm F2.8 - Equal to 70-200mm, but extremely compact. Surprisingly great portrait and street lens
Lumix Leica DG Summilux 25mm F1.4 Mark II - "nifty fifty" with nice bokeh

On my older EM-10:
Lumix Leica DG Vario-Elmarit 12-60 F2,8-4 - as an universal travel lens.
its a smaller yet heavier metal body, with small pop-up flash.

E-PM2
M.Zuiko 14-42mm F3,5-5,6
Compact backup body in case of emergency.

Other lenses:
M. Zuiko 45mm F1.8
M. Zuiko 75mm F1.8
Sirui 50mm F1.8 Anamorphic
 
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