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What is your favorite house curve

Here is my living room with("blue-ish") and without DSP(magenta), The dip at the top end is deliberate.
1688207353146-png.931928


This is the average of 7 rooms from my local hififorum...'
1688645426878.png
 
Here's my LEAST favorite house curve of all time. Audyssey's Reference "High Frequency Roll Off 1":

HC.jpg

PS: "High Frequency Roll Off 2" is slightly worse.
 
By the way @Acerun, is it still about these speakers?

View attachment 297164
(Source)

If so, could you repost your graph with only the Before line selected?
Yes, still the M126be but with my larger system w Denon X8500H, all outboard hypex amps and two Hypex Rythmik subs. I will take another REW measurement today with the current filters in place and post.
 
What I basically suggested is to let the bass roll off lower and steeper. It will hardly increase the boost at 70Hz, while it will make you keep more of the chunk that peaks at 60Hz.

Hope this makes sense.
Might you "dumb down" how one would "let the bass roll off lower and steeper"? I'm using a tilt filter as a baseline +2 to -4, and can add a parametric filter to that if I knew what to try.
 
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Might you "dumb down" how one would "let the bass roll off lower and steeper"? I'm using a tilt filter as a baseline +2 to -4, and can add a parametric filter to that if I knew what to try.
I don’t know the MultEQ X software, so you’ll have to work out the how yourself or maybe others can chime in. In general the question is why does your corrected bass start to roll off from 150Hz down while what you asked for was a straight sloping line?

Another thing, where is this -4 you mention in your After line?
 
I mean in REW I could quite easily make my target curve do this (yellow dashed line):

1688662088828.png
 
I don’t know the MultEQ X software, so you’ll have to work out the how yourself or maybe others can chime in. In general the question is why does your corrected bass start to roll off from 150Hz down while what you asked for was a straight sloping line?

Another thing, where is this -4 you mention in your After line?
When I mention +2 to -4 it is from this target tilt filter

1688663385916.png
 
Yes, with Multieq you measure everything together for your baseline room EQ. Then add filters to taste.
Your subs seem to reach well below 40Hz. So how was this green curve with the subs engaged? Perhaps they were switched on but nothing was output to them?
 
Understood. But do you get yourself (as I don't) why your Corrected 20kHz point is at -2 and not -4?
I don't and I did notice that. I'm guessing that adding the -4 tilt was the target but with the variation in the actual performance it could only hit -2?
 
here is Harman vs the so called "Dr. Tool target" but -10dB ISO loudness compensated.
for those using Harman for listening at medium listening levels to compensate but always felt it is masking lower mids, might be worth a try

dg.jpg
 

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Here is the before Audessey Multieq with only the before line
Thanks.

Here it is with the CEA 2034 graphs overlayed. Scale adjusted and Frequency axis aligned.

1688665627900.png

This way you can analyse what of your speaker's character remains in your >500Hz in room response, and what of it you'd like to correct and to what extent. I believe I'd leave most of it alone. Maybe I'd knock down some of this 10kHz - 15kHz bump.

Others may see more things to combat though.
 
Thanks.

Here it is with the CEA 2034 graphs overlayed. Scale adjusted and Frequency axis aligned.

View attachment 297260
This way you can analyse what of your speaker's character remains in your >500Hz in room response, and what of it you'd like to correct and to what extent. I believe I'd leave most of it alone. Maybe I'd knock down some of this 10kHz - 15kHz bump.

Others may see more things to combat though.
What do you think about this? I adjusted the tilt slightly and put in a 2nd order low shelf at 60, cut at 500 then used a first order high shelf to tame the top end.
1688667126412.png
 
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