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What is on your workbench right now?

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pma

pma

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@pma. What are those TEAC boxes in the background? Series 500 Reference gear?

Frankly, I am not sure. It was my friend's studio and we had a lot of fun there. You may try to find out from the whole (thanks to @amirm image size limit increased) picture:
img640.jpg
 

restorer-john

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Lay money on it being a Ref 500 system. Or maybe the smaller model 300 IIRC. Each box I can see has a different prefix (tuner-T, A-amp etc)

Reference 300:
1623654150690.png


Reference 500
1623654194254.png


Really lovely fully separate components. Fits the timeline too- it may have been runout stock he bought as Teac sold them out really cheaply.

AH500 amplifier
1623654240919.png
 

dfuller

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Most recent thing I did was wire up my patch bay. That was a lot of work, even though it wasn't a solder tab bay.
 

Rick Sykora

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One Carver Z coupler. In the heyday of Carver, this was used to sell amps to those who wanted to add more power to a stereo receiver. I bought it in a closeout sale and has been sitting in storage for decades...

5A7677B3-ACA0-489B-9C2C-F6D3298C4CBC.jpeg


Was hoping it had more to it (maybe transformers?), but was pretty underwhelmed after I opened. :rolleyes:
 

Helicopter

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One Carver Z coupler. In the heyday of Carver, this was used to sell amps to those who wanted to add more power to a stereo receiver. I bought it in a closeout sale and has been sitting in storage for decades...

View attachment 142537

Was hoping it had more to it (maybe transformers?), but was pretty underwhelmed after I opened. :rolleyes:
Hey! I know an application for attenuating speaker level to line level! ;)
 

Dion_Sinewave

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Trying to find the source of noise from my new Lake LM26
 

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Dion_Sinewave

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Dual stereo NC400 amps for my 4 way active setup.

please ignore the speaker wires, I was trying to determine if different types of wire from module output to speaker terminals made a difference.

They are 2x NC400 modules, but with the high power SMPS1200A400 power supplie.

These power my mid and high channels, with mono block NC1200 for bass on each speaker
 

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DonH56

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One Carver Z coupler. In the heyday of Carver, this was used to sell amps to those who wanted to add more power to a stereo receiver. I bought it in a closeout sale and has been sitting in storage for decades...

View attachment 142537

Was hoping it had more to it (maybe transformers?), but was pretty underwhelmed after I opened. :rolleyes:

Not really a need for more than resistors for an audio attenuator. A transformer just adds the potential for picking up more noise and introducing ringing. I forget exactly the circuit, but IIRC it used a H-pad or similar so would work with bridged amps. More than one audiophile (tech) has blown up an amp with a simple attenuator that grounded both (-) outputs in a stereo pair, letting the smoke out of their amp...
 
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tomchr

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Yeah. You don't want to connect the two "-" outputs in a bridged amp. That's a recipe for a bad day (unless the amp has built-in protection circuits that take care of this and shut off the amp).

Tom
 

Rick Sykora

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Not really a need for more than resistors for an audio attenuator. A transformer just adds the potential for picking up more noise and introducing ringing. I forget exactly the circuit, but IIRC it used a H-pad or similar so would work with bridged amps. More than one audiophile (tech) has blown up an amp with a simple attenuator that grounded both (-) outputs in a stereo pair, letting the smoke out of their amp...

Thanks for the warning as this one does just that, but as you might guess, really have no use for it.

Do not recall paying much for it, so thinking I will gut it and use for my new impedance measurement box.
 

egellings

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The negative terminal on a bridged amp is just as active (driven by circuitry) as the positive input is. Don't ground either one, nor tie them together, ever.
 

dfuller

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Latest thing: A Fender 6G15 standalone reverb clone that blew up its power transformer from a shorted tube. This was not helped by the builder using the wrong power transformer (it's supposed to use a 250V 50ma non-center tapped HT winding, not half a 250-0-250 60ma...) which couldn't handle the excess current draw, or a too-large fuse (supposed to be 750mA, not 1A...). The rectifier is a large chassis mounted bridge type, which I still don't entirely understand the point of because the HT winding can't possibly supply enough power to make it hot enough for that.
 

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Rick Sykora

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Lol. How about some tea from one of my honeydo projects…

8640CBAC-B72D-43F9-A617-CA5CA6A3D82A.jpeg
 
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