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What DIY Speakers Are You Planning or Building?

Audionaut

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This thread is about what you are currently planning or developing in the field of DIY speakers, or what you have wanted to build for a while but have not yet implemented.

These do not have to be finished projects. Initial considerations, rough concepts, or ideas where perhaps only the drivers have been chosen so far are just as interesting. If you are further along, feel free to go into as much detail as possible: driver selection, enclosure principle and volume, crossover frequencies, active or passive operation, DSP, amplifiers, simulations, measurements, and so on.

So the focus is less on presenting finished speakers and more on the question:

So > What would you like to build—and why exactly that?

I’ll start things off.

At the moment, I am considering a relatively compact but exceptionally powerful active living-room speaker together with and for a friend. He really likes the dynamics and authority of my own system with its two 8-inch PA coaxial drivers, but explicitly does not want a separate subwoofer. The idea is therefore to implement a classic large three-way speaker in a more modern and compact form.

The current choice for the woofer is the 4-ohm version of the B&C 12FG100. It is intended to operate in approximately 55–60 liters of bass-reflex volume, with a tuning somewhere around 31–32 Hz. The goal is not maximum deep bass at any cost, but a clean, usable in-room response down to approximately 30 Hz while retaining a very large amount of dynamic headroom.

Above that, the new B&C 8CXN64 will operate as an 8-inch coaxial driver. The woofer would probably hand over to the low-frequency section of the coax somewhere around 150 Hz. The exact crossover frequency will of course be determined later based on measurements and could, for example, end up somewhere between approximately 120 and 180 Hz.

This means that the 8CXN64 will cover practically the entire range relevant for localization and spatial imaging as a coaxial point source. The crossover between its 8-inch cone driver and the integrated compression driver will probably be somewhere in the range of approximately 1.2–1.5 kHz, also depending on the measurements.

The entire system is intended to be fully active and DSP-controlled. At the moment, I am considering one WONDOM JAB6 per speaker. The 4-ohm 12FG100 makes better use of the available amplifier power than the 8-ohm version, while the midrange and tweeter require comparatively little power anyway.

The basic division would therefore be approximately:

B&C 12FG100/4:
approx. 30–150 Hz

B&C 8CXN64 LF:
approx. 150 Hz to 1.2–1.5 kHz

B&C 8CXN64 HF:
from approx. 1.2–1.5 kHz

The speaker is explicitly not intended to become a PA speaker, but rather a very powerful living-room speaker for an area of around 50 m²: high maximum output as headroom, low distortion, genuine deep bass without an additional subwoofer, and a relatively compact enclosure at the same time.

For the enclosure, I am currently thinking of standard MDF with internal bracing. The coaxial driver would have its own small, well-damped sealed chamber. Overall, the net internal volume will probably be somewhere around 65–70 liters per speaker, plus the port, drivers, bracing, and electronics.

The project is still in the concept phase. The final bass-reflex tuning, port dimensions, crossover frequencies, and DSP corrections will only be determined after simulations and measurements.

I would be interested to hear what you are currently planning. Projects that exist only in your head so far are very welcome too.
 
I like pressure bass. mids and highs is easy and not expensive.we can even try a D&D 8C type aperiodic . I like your Wondom pick. Just one thing Wondon doesnt offer is Airplay.
my 2 designs take 2 Peerless XXLS 10 and put in 40 litre sealed back firing or a DOS ( dual opposed sub sealed ) these subs are very powerful. Does Wondom support LT Linkwitz Transform. I had another great sub driver in 60litre sealed is Peerless STW 350 front firing. This is the king of SUBs even a clean 700 watts is enough pre side.

Peerless has good pricing in Europe compared to others.
cheers
anand
 
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I need some help with filtering, not sure mine is too good.
 
Philharmonic BMRs. I bought the drivers before I realized the (crossover) plans were no longer available. I do have the cabinet plans. Maybe when I buy a pair, they will sell me an extra crossover :).
 
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I'm about to design and build a hi-efficiency three way active speaker based on these drivers:

Beyma TPL-200H crossed ~1.2khz or Aurum Cantus G1 with a constant directivity horn which I don't have yet.

Beyma 12P80ND-V2 (the original version, not ribbed cone). Crossed @110-140hz. I'm thinking about using it in a resistive port passive cardioid. There gonna be two slots at both sides of speaker to achieve maximum cancelation.

Two 18 inch woofers from Beyma or Faital Pro placed on the back panel, there are going to be boundary-coupled to the front wall so tweeter and midrabge will be delayed some milliseconds to compensate the earlier low frequency reflecting from the front wall all the way to front baffle...
HYPEX DLCP with some NCore amps.

I will start with the passive cardioid section for the 12 inch driver to see how much cancelation I can achieve using some porous materials. DSP has nothing to do in passive cardioid part.
 
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I'm in the process of turning my Quad ESL-63s into ESL-989s by building them into sturdier frames and adding two bass panels to each speaker. I'm trying to make them easier to service as they are notoriously unreliable and difficult to service. The driver frames are made of 3060 t-slot and dust cover/wire mesh frames made using 2020 t-slot. The dust cover frames come off and go back on easily, and without destroying the dust cover film. I'm planning to wire the drivers using Wago 221 lever nuts instead of soldering so that it should be possible to remove any driver panel by simply releasing the levers and unscrewing the panel. I am also looking into adding a signal detection circuit that will automatically switch the HV bias supply on and off, thereby reducing the amount of ozone that the adhesives are exposed to inside the dust covers.

I did a test of the dust cover installation process and found it very easy to install a wrinkle free dust cover without having to resort to shrinking the film with a heat gun. I just stretch the 6 um film on the granite island in my kitchen, lay the VHB tape side of the frame down on it, turn it over and cut away the excess film. The dust cover/mesh frames are mounted on the driver frames using 3D printed brackets that screw onto the frames.

I have to rebuild the four bass panels, then transfer the old speakers into the new frames.


ESL-63 redux 3060 frame with 2020 mesh frames front.jpg
 
I'm most of the way through planning, and a small way through building, a full system that will hopefully be my magnum opus :D
architecture.png

So it's sort of like a 2.1 system except that the full range horns will get the whole signal and are apparently capable of going down to 45Hz with the right wall coupling. The sub is really only filling in the subsonics, probably will hardly be employed for most musical content; it's only really there for movies, or perhaps the synthetic bass of the kids' offensive drill/trap. Needs the DSP along with the excessive headroom of the mono amp to get it down below 45Hz.

I'm being obsessive over PSU hygiene and ground loops which have bitten me before, hence the three separate PSUs.

My hope is that the Korg Nutube adds some nice 2nd harmonics that the transparent 3e amps and coherent FHXL speakers project nice and clearly. Let's see!
 
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Start last year prepping for my next build. It will be a 2 x 4 way active loudspeakers system.

Source will be a media PC with 8 channel dac output.(Es9039 dac's). The 8 amps I designed myself to meet the dac specs.( Very low thd+n).

One speaker setup wil be, WMTMWW.

For the speakers I bought diamond dome tweeters.
2100hz and up

PXL_20260710_124557690~2.jpg


They will be joined by 2 x 4" middomes.
Between 225 and 2100hz

Screenshot_20260914-202517.png

Bass I use 2 x Dynaudio 20w75 or MW172
Between 225 and 65hz

Screenshot_20260914-202658.png

And as subwoofer one 12" dynaudio subwoofer.
Below 65hz

All stuffed in a mdf housing with Ebony fineer.
 
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