somebodyelse
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Or is accidentally inverted in the GUICheck your connections, something has been connected with reversed polarity.
Or is accidentally inverted in the GUICheck your connections, something has been connected with reversed polarity.
About the woofer, lots of pro-drivers recommend a protection HPF at 30Hz or so.Why is there a HPF for your woofer and a LPF for your tweeter?
The easiest way would be to put all drivers in a line above each other with a suitable c-c distance. This is what Kimmosto (creator of VituixCAD) says:After Looking at the rest of this post it's all just wrong, assembling drivers randomly in space is not going to achieve audio nirvana and the DSP box you choose to implement it all with is a nightmare. I'm really sorry to say it's best to start with a new concept for most of the components and a serious exploration of the dB-Mark's capabilities. I'm pretty sure it'll do what you want it to do, and you've already paid, for it but wow, just WOW, on the GUI.
what would be the minimum centre to centre distance between them?
Even if my hybrids are not DIY, I still use control, numbered cables to them.Ok, another few hours playing, best advice so far….. check connections, I had one driver connected reverse polarity and two drivers connected to the wrong amps!
Anyway, I ended up here:
View attachment 478556
Crossovers are 1,200hz and 5,000hz, some light EQ applied.
And another.Ok, another few hours playing, best advice so far….. check connections, I had one driver connected reverse polarity and two drivers connected to the wrong amps!
Anyway, I ended up here:
View attachment 478556
Crossovers are 1,200hz and 5,000hz, some light EQ applied.
I have to warn you, this will be steep.Thanks all. I'm sure its going to be a long journey, I'm just getting to grips with the basics of REW sweeps so I've a big learning curve ahead.
@Sokel - I can see what you mean about the scaling and mtw, its looks awful now..... I know the dip between 30-60hz is a room mode then there is the big dip at the 1.2khz crossover point.
View attachment 478825
One thing I would like to understand is the way in which I should test / evaluate the speakers i.e. the process that should be followed.
For instance, is it best to play around with x-overs / gain and measure each driver individually in order to workout their optimum performance and then test each individual speaker as a whole and then the pair combined?
What I found yesterday was that while testing, measuring and playing around with a single speaker in order to dial in basic crossover and gain settings, the result of that testing completely changed once I switched to testing the speakers combined.
Ultimately, I'm not trying to produce a commercial product, I'm trying make a bespoke setup that works for me, in my room and more particularly, at my seating position. However, given that I have the option produce multiple profiles, I would like to be able to switch between profiles depending on my want / need such as, a profile that is optimised for on axis listening at my seating position, a profile that is optimised for off axis listening at a different seating position etc.
I use color-coded multi-core (4-core AWG10, 8-core AWG12) Vinyl Cabtyre (VCT) cable for SP-cables in my PC-DSP-based multichannel multi-amplifier multi-SP-driver fully active audio setup.Ok, another few hours playing, best advice so far….. check connections, I had one driver connected reverse polarity and two drivers connected to the wrong amps!
Yes, I fully agree!There is too much to cover in a forum post. You need to buy this book and read the section about crossovers.