Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary speaker review & measurements by Erin's Audio Corner

[DearSX]

I have a microphone and Roon, REW and WiiM room correction, but I've been too lazy or busy to try it. I just used the Spinorama.org EQ settings (30 band EQ) using Equalizer APO and it made voices sound much clearer, reminds me of my Q Acoustic Concept 50 speakers.

Now I'm using the WiiM Ultra and 10 band Parametric EQ and I don't feel their is as much of a difference. Dynamics and bass is decent.

I think you are supposed to use mic pointing up, but not 100% sure.

 

[JustJones]

According to Minidsp

For stereo system (e.g. 2ch dirac live, single speaker measurement), use the 0deg file and point the UMIK-1 at the speakers
- For multichannel system (E.g. 5.1/7.1) or a surround application where multiple speakers are spreadout around the room, use the 90deg file and point the UMIK-1 at the ceiling.

 

[raindance]

Pointing up (90 degree) is useful for bass correction and you can mostly ignore the very high frequency content if you're just planning to correct bass modes. Pointing straight ahead is useful for measuring all the way up. Note that for frequencies above transition, you should measure one speaker at a time or your result will be skewed by comb filtering; typically this will show a high frequency droop that isn't really there.

 

[Eleo]

I have purchased dirac and an umik1
Anyone have already done roomEa with these speakers? Do you recommend using all full range freq correct or just under certain range and in which?

Also should I use 0 degree or 90 degree for the mic positioning? And dirac courve default is good enough or should I use other (like harman).

Thanks!!

I correct until 300 hz , umik at 90 degree, Rew plus EQ Apo. I have added two small subs - delayed of 7.5 ms - to address room modes.
For EQ I use a mini pc fanless and a Dayton DSP-LF. The results are quite good IMO

 

[dougi]

I correct full range. Here is an older DIRAC example. Now I leave the top octave rolled off. Green is corrected.

 

[holbob]

Is it worth losing 7/8 of your amplifier power to boost in a region where there is hardly any musical content?

 

[funkera91]

Anyone who can compare theese to Buchardt 400 MKII ? or Arendal 1723 ?
What are the differences in sound?

 

[Architectorus]

Could anyone tell what are specs of internal cables used in Lintons, material, diameter? Minus is silver color, plus is copper coloir. Is minus ones are made from aluminium?
Want to try to change cabling. Wondering if QED anniversary silver will be good.

 

[PeterNL]

Could anyone tell what are specs of internal cables used in Lintons, material, diameter? Minus is silver color, plus is copper coloir. Is minus ones are made from aluminium?
Want to try to change cabling. Wondering if QED anniversary silver will be good.

There are few videos on YT about crossover upgrade, maybe you can find the answer there.
But...I think that changing original internal cables will give you max 0.001% audible result.

 

[raindance]

Could anyone tell what are specs of internal cables used in Lintons, material, diameter? Minus is silver color, plus is copper coloir. Is minus ones are made from aluminium?
Want to try to change cabling. Wondering if QED anniversary silver will be good.

You are in the wrong online forum for this type of fairy tale.

 

[Architectorus]

Just watched the review of Super Dentons and removed tweeter mesh. Now speakers looks better, just beautiful. But wondering - why does it needed from factory, what is effect on sound. Can't believe that mesh can bring any good.

 

[staticV3]

But wondering - why does it needed from factory, what is effect on sound. Can't believe that mesh can bring any good.

See here: https://youtu.be/5Xb9Ku0Fy_E?t=815

 

[Architectorus]

See here: https://youtu.be/5Xb9Ku0Fy_E?t=815
View attachment 395629 View attachment 395628

Sorry, I mean tweeter mesh, not a cloth grille covering whole front panel

 

[staticV3]

Sorry, I mean tweeter mesh, not a cloth grille covering whole front panel

Ah I see, sorry I got confused since you mentioned the Super Denton, which only has the grille, no tweeter mesh.

The Linton's tweeter mesh should be there for protection only.

On the other hand, just like on the Super Denton, the grille actually serves an acoustic purpose as it improves the speaker's response.

 

[testp]

at first i thought that as well (tweeter mesh acts as the radiating surface), but if Grille is the final surface, then it should be good,
i've seen improvements measured for 'genelec 1032 knock-off' -> Behringer something, where mesh removed improved something, if you like, look it up here in asr.,

It sure looks better without mesh..

 

[Architectorus]

Just a few pictures of drivers and crossover

 

[funkera91]

what you dont like of lintons in general? Do they need sub? I will listen to them thees days, should I buy them over Polk Audio R700?

 

[DSJR]

Wondering if QED anniversary silver will be good.

That awful stuff DOWNGRADED every single system we sold it with (I don't know why), but a good well specified copper stranded cable @ 2.5mm conductor cross-section ALWAYS without fail, improved the subjective impressions. This happened every time over a good few years of demming, yet we had to sell it because the eejits at WHF (WTF!) magazine kept giving it awards year after year and the followers kept asking for it and refused to be shown otherwise...

So, the few inches of cable inside this passive speaker will be absolutely as nothing, compared to the losses in the passive crossover, so to keep residual value up as and when you re-sell. LEAVE WELL ALONE!!!

I'd also add that the designer has pushing fifty years experience designing for good subjective and measuring effects now, so 'upgrading' the passive crossover with supposedly 'better/posher/more-expensive' bits will probably upset the balance and make the things WORSE rather than better (s'cuse the shouting, but it's important you try to understand). These successful products on the international stage aren't designed by ignorant people and this designer amongst a very few, knows what he's doing I think and has upped his game in recent times with the new and revised Wharfedale releases.

I've seen so many well designed products over the years ruined by amateur tweaking and tampering and speakers are one of the worst. You want better sound? Improve the room and set-up within it (you'd be amazed how a cheap humble nonentity speaker can be improved subjectively simply by playing it in a well sorted room). Also, go active from a trusted pro-studio maker which will open up further dsp-type response tweaks if you use digital sources (legacy-analogue has little to no place when you're at this level unless it's master tapes with a suitable high speed pro tape machine to play them on).

 

[dfuller]

Just a few pictures of drivers and crossover

Nice drivers - I like the bucking mag on the woofer. Can't say I'm a huge fan of electrolytic capacitors in crossovers as they are definitely higher distortion than film types, but for the values needed the film types may have been prohibitively large and/or expensive. Same goes for the ferrous core inductors.

 

[Zvu]

Ferrous core inductors are normal values and can be easily changed to air core except the one in series with woofer. To achieve that low Rdc you need quite a large coil. It can be done but the coil would have to be mounted somewhere else - besides the crossover board i guess.

I still haven't had the time to do it, but i plan to.