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Wharfedale Diamond 12 Owner's Thread

I am not sure an equalizer is a good idea, but modern dsp room equalization should be part of any system with a subwoofer. The Naim amplifier is a hugely overpriced and underpowered piece of audiophilia, but it is what you have, and it might just have enough power to work in a small room like this. Does it have a line level subwoofer output?
The first thing I would recommend is to buy a mini DSP Umik-1 calibrated measurement microphone, and use it with the free REW measurment software. It will tell you what your speakers are doing in your room.
Next, what are your sources? If you are using a computer as a source you could use REW and the free Egualizer Apo or similar software to create a very precise tone comtrol and perhaps lift the bass a bit, plus create filters to equalize the response to deal with room modes (peaks and dips at low frequencies). The snag here is that the amplifier does not have much spare power to increase low frequency level. The advantage it that you can experiment without spending a fortune.
If you find that you need to lift bass response more than just a little bit, and extend it a lot, then the subwoofer route is probably the most cost effective way to do this. It will add real extension and power. Ideally one should use at least two (mono) subwoofers, for a smoother response across a wider listening area, and a high pas filter on the main speakers and power amplifier, but that is probably not possible with the Naim, unless it has separate pre/power amp connections. If the Naim does not have a subwoofer line level connection and you want some dsp room eq you will need to get the signal from the speakers connection, use an attenuating cable, and then insert a DSpeaker ANtimode 8033 room eq unit or a miniDSP 2x4HD dsp unit that can use REW or Multi Sub Optimizer filters.
In short, good bass does not come easy.
 
Of course not.
Willem, have you tried it? You can get silver plated OCC jumper from China for $11USD. Try it with your Wharfedale Diamond 12.X and report back. If you can’t hear a difference, especially in the treble, I will Venmo you the $11.

kn
 
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I am not sure an equalizer is a good idea, but modern dsp room equalization should be part of any system with a subwoofer. The Naim amplifier is a hugely overpriced and underpowered piece of audiophilia, but it is what you have, and it might just have enough power to work in a small room like this. Does it have a line level subwoofer output?
The first thing I would recommend is to buy a mini DSP Umik-1 calibrated measurement microphone, and use it with the free REW measurment software. It will tell you what your speakers are doing in your room.
Next, what are your sources? If you are using a computer as a source you could use REW and the free Egualizer Apo or similar software to create a very precise tone comtrol and perhaps lift the bass a bit, plus create filters to equalize the response to deal with room modes (peaks and dips at low frequencies). The snag here is that the amplifier does not have much spare power to increase low frequency level. The advantage it that you can experiment without spending a fortune.
If you find that you need to lift bass response more than just a little bit, and extend it a lot, then the subwoofer route is probably the most cost effective way to do this. It will add real extension and power. Ideally one should use at least two (mono) subwoofers, for a smoother response across a wider listening area, and a high pas filter on the main speakers and power amplifier, but that is probably not possible with the Naim, unless it has separate pre/power amp connections. If the Naim does not have a subwoofer line level connection and you want some dsp room eq you will need to get the signal from the speakers connection, use an attenuating cable, and then insert a DSpeaker ANtimode 8033 room eq unit or a miniDSP 2x4HD dsp unit that can use REW or Multi Sub Optimizer filters.
In short, good bass does not come easy.
Plus 1 for good bass does not come easy.
 
Hi Guys!
I own a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 12.2 speakers with a Naim Nait 5i amplifier, and feel my current system a bit bass-shy. The music is very punchy, rhythmic and fast, but the bass doesnt have enough depth. I am actually quite stuck here, because I am about to buy new a DAC, but have been thinking about buying a sub or switching the amplifier. I am open to any suggestions.
Try gradually moving the Wharfedales closer to the rear wall and see if that gives you a little bass lift without losing clarity or muddying things up. If that doesn’t help, go with subwoofer(s). But save your pennies for a sub from SVS, Hsu, REL or similar.

kn
 
If you can’t hear a difference
That the problem, dude. Of course hearing is important BUT everybody here knows that the human hearing is one of the most bias sense we've got. So the best is to measure before and after to check if there is any difference AND/OT to do a real ABX text Wich will take more times and wont be easy to setup properly.

So the so call "did yout try?" argument is not a good one here depending on how you "try".
 
Some things depend on the established science of physics. In this case, that suggests that you would be wasting your time and that the so called listening test is just an illusion. That would not be surprising, since expectation bias is a well known phenomenon. I have no intention to find out if the world is flat, or not.
 
Try replacing the stock metal jumper bars on the 12.X Diamonds with good quality wire jumpers. They will “slam” your pants off. No need to bleed money - buy Chinese jumpers with good connecters, wire and insulation. Try these speakers with Tipper, Jlin, Rufus Del Sol, Skrillex etc. 50W in a smaller room should be more than you can stand. I am using Diamond 12.0’s with 50W Rega-R amp and Monitor Audio sub in my office and it blows my hair back while presenting detail and great soundstage in nearfield.

kn
If it truly made that great a difference, just a change in "Jumpers", you would think Wharfedale would be quite aware of this drastic improvement, and instead eliminate the dual binding posts and sum the wires together behind one set of binding posts, save the money of no jumpers and a 2nd set of binding posts??

The result would be a savings of a few bucks on EACH and every speaker they build, and a drastically better sound.
Their sales would inflate to unreal amounts.............!
Contact them now!!
 
If it truly made that great a difference, just a change in "Jumpers", you would think Wharfedale would be quite aware of this drastic improvement, and instead eliminate the dual binding posts and sum the wires together behind one set of binding posts, save the money of no jumpers and a 2nd set of binding posts??

The result would be a savings of a few bucks on EACH and every speaker they build, and a drastically better sound.
Their sales would inflate to unreal amounts.............!
Contact them now!!
I did not say the upgraded jumper solution sounds better than bi-amping the tweeter and mid-woofer, which is allowed by the standard Wharfedale arrangement of four binding posts per speaker. Your suggestion would preclude the bi-amping option which seems to be an important part of Wharfedale’s design philosophy. The metal bars are an inexpensive and unobtrusive stock work around for the company to allow both single and bi-amping options. My experience indicates the stock bars can be improved upon for a very modest amount of effort and investment.

kn
 
It is not the money, it is the integrity of the science.
As a trained scientist and someone who remains active on the review and funding side, I can appreciate that perspective. As a former bench scientist I cannot help constant tinkering. YMMV.

kn
 
Try replacing the stock metal jumper bars on the 12.X Diamonds with good quality wire jumpers. They will “slam” your pants off. No need to bleed money - buy Chinese jumpers with good connecters, wire and insulation. Try these speakers with Tipper, Jlin, Rufus Del Sol, Skrillex etc. 50W in a smaller room should be more than you can stand. I am using Diamond 12.0’s with 50W Rega-R amp and Monitor Audio sub in my office and it blows my hair back while presenting detail and great soundstage in nearfield.

kn
What length for the jumpers? I am looking at some but dont know, either 10cm or 15cm? I am thinking 10cm...?
 
hello! im very happy with my new 12.2 are any eq recommendations?? im using Colibri on MacOs and a loxjie d30 dac, Thanks!! and sorry bad English!
 
What length for the jumpers? I am looking at some but dont know, either 10cm or 15cm? I am thinking 10cm...?
Depends on how stiff the jumpers are, particularly around the connectors. If they are very flexible you can get away with 10cm. If they look stiff (likely), go with fifteen or longer. Mine are 25cm, allow space for cross wiring, don’t peak out on the sides of the 12.0’s when looking at the speakers front on, and work just fine (see attached image).
 

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Any old ofc cable will work the same and I doubt you'll notice anything over the stock bars anyway.
The signal in your amplifier runs through a lot of flat metal shapes. It runs through more flat metal shapes inside the speaker. What's changing 2% of that length going to do for you?
I have done quite a bit of experimenting with jumpers on a previous generation of Wharfedale Diamond bookshelf speakers. I experienced noticeable differences using jumpers with different metals. I found silver jumpers to be too forward with a treble emphasis for my taste (in that system). For me, I found the dielectric material also affected the sound, with teflon presenting a brighter sound than polyethylene. Some of the wire I used was bare, but that makes me nervous. I found that the differences noticed for metals and dielectric were repeatable and surprisingly not subtle.

There are lovely sounding and well made speaker jumper cables available now from China at very low cost. Worlds Best Cable also sells some solid looking jumpers made from Canare wire that are pretty inexpensive, but I have not tried them.

YMMV.

kn
 
I have done quite a bit of experimenting with jumpers on a previous generation of Wharfedale Diamond bookshelf speakers. I experienced noticeable differences using jumpers with different metals. I found silver jumpers to be too forward with a treble emphasis for my taste (in that system). For me, I found the dielectric material also affected the sound, with teflon presenting a brighter sound than polyethylene. Some of the wire I used was bare, but that makes me nervous. I found that the differences noticed for metals and dielectric were repeatable and surprisingly not subtle.

There are lovely sounding and well made speaker jumper cables available now from China at very low cost. Worlds Best Cable also sells some solid looking jumpers made from Canare wire that are pretty inexpensive, but I have not tried them.

YMMV.

kn
I have some jumpers ordered on a slow boat from China. They do contain silver but have rhodium plating on the spades. No idea if they will improve or negate any sound quality but knowing silver they may introduce a sharper edge to the treble and I am not sure if that will be needed with the 12.2 but worth the hands on knowledge ultimately imo. These are 10cm which are a perfect size after measuring with some 12 gauge copper on my new 12.2, laying flat against the rear panel like the original plates which in all honesty do a good enough job as is.
 
I have some jumpers ordered on a slow boat from China. They do contain silver but have rhodium plating on the spades. No idea if they will improve or negate any sound quality but knowing silver they may introduce a sharper edge to the treble and I am not sure if that will be needed with the 12.2 but worth the hands on knowledge ultimately imo. These are 10cm which are a perfect size after measuring with some 12 gauge copper on my new 12.2, laying flat against the rear panel like the original plates which in all honesty do a good enough job as is.
Those jumpers sound very similar to what I am using in two different systems. The build quality of what I bought from China was surprisingly good. In addition to the flat ribbons shown in the image I shared, I tried some thick round cables built from similar materials and my daughter is using with some Whafedale Dentons. Both designs sound good.

There is much discussion on audio forums that rhodium connectors take a while to settle down and sound their best. I think I noticed that with the jumpers I bought, so give them some time before critically evaluating versus the stock plates.

kn
 
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Those jumpers sound very similar to what am using in two different systems. The build quality of what I bought from China was surprisingly good. In addition to the flat ribbons shown in the image I shared, I tried some thick round cables built from similar materials and my daughter is using with some Whafedale Dentons. Both designs sound good.

There is much discussion on audio forums that rhodium connectors take a while to settle down and sound their best. I think I noticed that with the jumpers I bought, so give them some time before critically evaluating versus the stock plates.

kn
Will do, thanks.
 
Those jumpers sound very similar to what am using in two different systems. The build quality of what I bought from China was surprisingly good. In addition to the flat ribbons shown in the image I shared, I tried some thick round cables built from similar materials and my daughter is using with some Whafedale Dentons. Both designs sound good.

There is much discussion on audio forums that rhodium connectors take a while to settle down and sound their best. I think I noticed that with the jumpers I bought, so give them some time before
critically evaluating versus the stock plates.

kn
Mayjoyaudio, Ebayuk.
 

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