Well-balanced cheap PC speakers

[Folktale]

From your options, I'll choose MR3.

If you put it on the desk, make sure you point the tweeter to your ear.
Set to monitor mode, adjust treble knob down 1 step from the center position.
Then tackle the room mode using equalizerAPO.
Test with music and movies, and adjust the bass & treble knob to your liking.
After that, enjoy it.

I have it myself for my working desk.

Thanks! When you watch films, does the speaker give enough depth?

 

[Tio]

Thanks! When you watch films, does the speaker give enough depth?

What do you mean enough depth? Is it enough bass?

I setup mine to use low pass on 55hz from the connex app, so I don't expect to hear the sub bass from the speaker. I don't watch movie using this as well because that is the job for the main system.

If I have time, I'll try to do a quick MMM on my setup and post the result here.

 

[whazzup]

My budget: $60 but I can stretch max to $100 if the audio quality jump will be worth while for someone who is satisfied with his cheap $10 speakers.

By bass, I mean, I don't want the bass to give me vibrations, but the kind of bass the edifier 1280 can produce? That Kind of bass. Not something that makes the floor or windows shake.

No, I think I can hide the side of the tweeter leaving the tweeter exposed. Like this: View attachment 547440
Seems like Edifier MR3 should be my top priority followed by 104BT.

Just want an upgrade from current setup. I kinda sit in the middle. Not crazy about sound but not a bare layman either. Something that just sits in the middle. My problem is I cannot gauge how good my current speakers are otherwise I would have gotten a pebble plus (they don't do returns from amazon here). But considering Pebble plus costs $40, I thought maybe a little but extra and I can even get better sound?

None of the folks recommended edifier M1360 so I guess that's out of the picture.

Understood.
Then you don't need to look any further than the MR3 for your desktop needs. Don't bother with the M1360, it's not going to be too far from the Pebble Plus. For the MR height issue, you can consider sticking some silicon feet to their sides (taller feet in front) and laying them sideways angled up towards you.
Also note that with the PC on the right, the right speaker will sound a bit boomier, with the PC tower acting like a side wall with the audio frequencies bouncing off faster compared to the left, though you may or may not notice.

By themselves, the MR3 don't really do much below 70hz and drops like a rock. But since your desktop is againt the wall, there'll be some bass being reinforced, plus you can adjust the bass up as well similar to what the left blue graph line shows. Definitely good enough, esp at your budget.

Edifier MR3 Desktop Speaker Review

Edifier MR3 Desktop Speaker Review

www.erinsaudiocorner.com

Not something that makes the floor or windows shake.

I understand what you mean. But generally that happens when someone uses a subwoofer indoors without proper setup or knowledge, it's not a fault with the subwoofer itself. It's like saying someone doesn't want to buy an oled display because you cannot stand how vibrant the red color looks or how deep the blacks are. As long as you learn how to set up the subwoofer properly, you essentially have a mini cinema for movies and games at home.

I had the 1280db for a while for desktop use. Sold them while I tried out different ones during my journey to figure out good speakers. Definitely spent way more than I should . Thankfully got most of them from secondhand market and eventually resold them. And that cycle basically ended after I started learning how to properly dial in speakers and subwoofers and set up my own little desktop cinema.

I've also had subwoofers better than the T5s, but they were bigger and not as suitable as desktop subs, so in the end for the size, performance AND price, it's tough to beat.

 

[Folktale]

Understood.
Then you don't need to look any further than the MR3 for your desktop needs. Don't bother with the M1360, it's not going to be too far from the Pebble Plus. For the MR height issue, you can consider sticking some silicon feet to their sides (taller feet in front) and laying them sideways angled up towards you.
Also note that with the PC on the right, the right speaker will sound a bit boomier, with the PC tower acting like a side wall with the audio frequencies bouncing off faster compared to the left, though you may or may not notice.

By themselves, the MR3 don't really do much below 70hz and drops like a rock. But since your desktop is againt the wall, there'll be some bass being reinforced, plus you can adjust the bass up as well similar to what the left blue graph line shows. Definitely good enough, esp at your budget.
View attachment 547455

Edifier MR3 Desktop Speaker Review

Edifier MR3 Desktop Speaker Review

www.erinsaudiocorner.com

I understand what you mean. But generally that happens when someone uses a subwoofer indoors without proper setup or knowledge, it's not a fault with the subwoofer itself. It's like saying someone doesn't want to buy an oled display because you cannot stand how vibrant the red color looks or how deep the blacks are. As long as you learn how to set up the subwoofer properly, you essentially have a mini cinema for movies and games at home.

I had the 1280db for a while for desktop use. Sold them while I tried out different ones during my journey to figure out good speakers. Definitely spent way more than I should . Thankfully got most of them from secondhand market and eventually resold them. And that cycle basically ended after I started learning how to properly dial in speakers and subwoofers and set up my own little desktop cinema.

I've also had subwoofers better than the T5s, but they were bigger and not as suitable as desktop subs, so in the end for the size, performance AND price, it's tough to beat.

So what's the proper way to place subwoofer? I thought it was on a wooden floor, like a platform, slightly raised above the ground?

Thanks I will now have to wait for the sale for MR3!

 

[Folktale]

What do you mean enough depth? Is it enough bass?

I setup mine to use low pass on 55hz from the connex app, so I don't expect to hear the sub bass from the speaker. I don't watch movie using this as well because that is the job for the main system.

If I have time, I'll try to do a quick MMM on my setup and post the result here.

by depth I mean lows that feel that they are there.

 

[antcollinet]

I'm gonna give you the usual triangle

Small/cheap/good sound.

Pick any two. You won't get all three.

 

[whazzup]

So what's the proper way to place subwoofer? I thought it was on a wooden floor, like a platform, slightly raised above the ground?

Imagine you're trying to talk to someone while a cannon is firing near you. You can't do so because the bass from the cannon is too loud relative to your voice. That is the first thing you generally need to do with a subwoofer: make sure the volume matches your speakers' volume, so that there's balance and is not too loud.

The vibrating windows or floor problem, that's because the subwoofer is usually tuned to play some frequencies at a volume that's too loud (too high SPL) to impress prospective customers, but when you bring back home, it's too loud (too much energy) and your glass windows / wooden floor resonate and vibrate in response. You can generally control that by adjusting the subwoofer volume, and the crossover frequency that most competent subs have. For advanced adjustments you can use EQ and adjust specific frequencies that causes vibrations in furniture, say 60hz.

Through research, most people generally want bass (20-100hz region) to be somewhat higher than the rest of the sounds from your speakers (100hz - 20khz region), but not too high like the cannon vs your voice. Something like the black line for 'All Listeners'. You can also compare this graph below to the MR3 graph earlier and hopefully you can see that the bass level that is preferred in the research, can't be achieved by MR3 because its performance drops right after 70hz.

So we have to use a subwoofer to fill in that gap.
But again, we don't want it to be too loud, so we will do the balancing with a measuring microphone for best accuracy, or you can also use your ears. But instead of listening to random music, we use a frequency sweep up to 200hz. As the frequency sweep plays from 20 - 200hz, you ideally want to hear a constant or higher volume at 20hz then gradually decreasing volume. But in reality, A) our ears are not that precise, AND B) a good subwoofer that can play loud at 20-40hz isn't cheap (and not small) so if you can get the bass frequencies sounding roughly as loud as the frequencies above 100hz (from your speakers), that's already a good home set up. Usually for affordable subs like T5s they play down to 45hz.

The placement of subwoofer can also affect its performance in another way.
You probably already know sound waves vibrate air molecules and your ears hear these vibrations. An analogy will be the ripples and waves when you drop a rock into a pool. When you throw a larger rock (bass) into the pool, the ripples become larger waves (stronger air vibrations). Then because the waves hit the walls of the pool (and your room) and get reflected, these reflections will cause some waves to rise higher at some spots and drop lower at other spots. The net effect is that you'll hear louder or softer bass notes when you stand at certain spots in your room. These are the room modes, or the peaks and nulls, though you may or may not notice the problem.

 

[Folktale]

Imagine you're trying to talk to someone while a cannon is firing near you. You can't do so because the bass from the cannon is too loud relative to your voice. That is the first thing you generally need to do with a subwoofer: make sure the volume matches your speakers' volume, so that there's balance and is not too loud.

The vibrating windows or floor problem, that's because the subwoofer is usually tuned to play some frequencies at a volume that's too loud (too high SPL) to impress prospective customers, but when you bring back home, it's too loud (too much energy) and your glass windows / wooden floor resonate and vibrate in response. You can generally control that by adjusting the subwoofer volume, and the crossover frequency that most competent subs have. For advanced adjustments you can use EQ and adjust specific frequencies that causes vibrations in furniture, say 60hz.

Through research, most people generally want bass (20-100hz region) to be somewhat higher than the rest of the sounds from your speakers (100hz - 20khz region), but not too high like the cannon vs your voice. Something like the black line for 'All Listeners'. You can also compare this graph below to the MR3 graph earlier and hopefully you can see that the bass level that is preferred in the research, can't be achieved by MR3 because its performance drops right after 70hz.

So we have to use a subwoofer to fill in that gap.
But again, we don't want it to be too loud, so we will do the balancing with a measuring microphone for best accuracy, or you can also use your ears. But instead of listening to random music, we use a frequency sweep up to 200hz. As the frequency sweep plays from 20 - 200hz, you ideally want to hear a constant or higher volume at 20hz then gradually decreasing volume. But in reality, A) our ears are not that precise, AND B) a good subwoofer that can play loud at 20-40hz isn't cheap (and not small) so if you can get the bass frequencies sounding roughly as loud as the frequencies above 100hz (from your speakers), that's already a good home set up. Usually for affordable subs like T5s they play down to 45hz.

The placement of subwoofer can also affect its performance in another way.
You probably already know sound waves vibrate air molecules and your ears hear these vibrations. An analogy will be the ripples and waves when you drop a rock into a pool. When you throw a larger rock (bass) into the pool, the ripples become larger waves (stronger air vibrations). Then because the waves hit the walls of the pool (and your room) and get reflected, these reflections will cause some waves to rise higher at some spots and drop lower at other spots. The net effect is that you'll hear louder or softer bass notes when you stand at certain spots in your room. These are the room modes, or the peaks and nulls, though you may or may not notice the problem.

Thanks a lot for detailed explaining! If I read the graph right of JBL 104 and MR3, The MR3 is flatter compared to JBL and has more details. Maybe I am wrong. Also, Is it true the speaker will sound muddy because of my PC Tower? Any way to counter it? Like, Placing something next to the empty space of other speaker?

 

[Folktale]

I'm gonna give you the usual triangle

Small/cheap/good sound.

Pick any two. You won't get all three.

True!

 

[whazzup]

Thanks a lot for detailed explaining! If I read the graph right of JBL 104 and MR3, The MR3 is flatter compared to JBL and has more details. Maybe I am wrong. Also, Is it true the speaker will sound muddy because of my PC Tower? Any way to counter it? Like, Placing something next to the empty space of other speaker?

Humans generally have a hearing range of 20 - 20000hz. Bass frequencies requires more energy to create (vibrate air molecules) and take longer to dissipate, while higher frequencies sounds more piercing but have less energy and dissipate faster.

Those measurements of the MR3 and 104BT are anechoic measurements, meaning they show how the speaker will perform when there's no influence from the environment. Horizontal line of the MR3 means the reproduction of the 20-20000hz range is very consistent, while 104BT trends higher towards higher frequencies.

Now when we use speakers, we can't stop them from interacting with our rooms (for example, echos), so we have the next measurement, the in-room response. If you go through the graphs for the speakers, one of the graphs shows the 'estimated in-room response'. If I'm not wrong, that is calculated with the assumption that the speaker is 2 metres away. For the MR3 it is tilted downwards, while for 104BT, it's somewhat horizontal. Remember that higher frequencies are supposed to have less energy than bass frequencies and will dissipate faster?

Meaning, at 2 metres away, the 104BT still has consistent energy in higher frequencies while MR3 has lower energy (in higher frequencies). But if you look at the preferred chart in the research diagram above, we see that most people prefer a downward tilting response. Plus when you use the speakers on your desk 30-50cm away, the higher frequencies have to travel less and thus retain more energy going into your ears. It's the balance that counts. 104BT can be said to have MORE details actually, but the audio will sound brighter and likely lead to faster ear fatigue, while MR3 has the more preferred balance.

As for your PC tower, the water waves analogy still applies. Your left speaker will bounce audio off 2 surfaces: the back wall and tabletop, while your right speaker 3 surfaces: back wall, tabletop and PC tower (essentially a corner). The reflected audio will make your right speaker sound slightly different from your left. The good thing is if you look at the back of MR3, you'll see diagrams saying 'Wall side', 'Corner', 'Desktop control' etc. I believe you can use the app to turn on these settings so that the speaker will automatically compensate for your placement. It's the best if the environment immediately around your speakers is symmetrical, but since you're not mixing or making music professionally, it's not a crucial thing.

 

[Folktale]

Humans generally have a hearing range of 20 - 20000hz. Bass frequencies requires more energy to create (vibrate air molecules) and take longer to dissipate, while higher frequencies sounds more piercing but have less energy and dissipate faster.

Those measurements of the MR3 and 104BT are anechoic measurements, meaning they show how the speaker will perform when there's no influence from the environment. Horizontal line of the MR3 means the reproduction of the 20-20000hz range is very consistent, while 104BT trends higher towards higher frequencies.

Now when we use speakers, we can't stop them from interacting with our rooms (for example, echos), so we have the next measurement, the in-room response. If you go through the graphs for the speakers, one of the graphs shows the 'estimated in-room response'. If I'm not wrong, that is calculated with the assumption that the speaker is 2 metres away. For the MR3 it is tilted downwards, while for 104BT, it's somewhat horizontal. Remember that higher frequencies are supposed to have less energy than bass frequencies and will dissipate faster?

Meaning, at 2 metres away, the 104BT still has consistent energy in higher frequencies while MR3 has lower energy (in higher frequencies). But if you look at the preferred chart in the research diagram above, we see that most people prefer a downward tilting response. Plus when you use the speakers on your desk 30-50cm away, the higher frequencies have to travel less and thus retain more energy going into your ears. It's the balance that counts. 104BT can be said to have MORE details actually, but the audio will sound brighter and likely lead to faster ear fatigue, while MR3 has the more preferred balance.

As for your PC tower, the water waves analogy still applies. Your left speaker will bounce audio off 2 surfaces: the back wall and tabletop, while your right speaker 3 surfaces: back wall, tabletop and PC tower (essentially a corner). The reflected audio will make your right speaker sound slightly different from your left. The good thing is if you look at the back of MR3, you'll see diagrams saying 'Wall side', 'Corner', 'Desktop control' etc. I believe you can use the app to turn on these settings so that the speaker will automatically compensate for your placement. It's the best if the environment immediately around your speakers is symmetrical, but since you're not mixing or making music professionally, it's not a crucial thing.

I was in the market yesterday, asia's supposedly largest IT market, and could not find MR3. They said that I should avoid JBL104 and MR3/4 as these are for mixing sounds and I won't enjoy it for films and games. While I ignored that, would it make sense to have a distance of 2 feet between speakers? or wit bookshelf I need to maintain specific distance between the left and right channel?

Also, anyplace where I learn more about reading the graphs?

 

[dualazmak]

In my office upstairs, I have desktop PC-based audio system in which I use DSP EKIO too feeding XO/Time-Align/EQ-ed 8 channels into one (single!) DAC, OPPO Sonica DAC, driving Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified Computer Speaker having fairly nice sub-woofer; this PC speaker is "still" amazingly nice in total sound quality, including the "well-balanced" by your wording, in desktop PC audio category.
I fully agree with this review; https://www.audioreputation.com/klipsch-promedia-2-1/
Even though the spec for "Frequency response" is 31 Hz - 20 kHz, I can easily hear down to around 24 Hz with little (almost no) distortion!

My main audio system is rather heavy-duty as you can find it here #931 on my project thread.

 

[staticV3]

or wit bookshelf I need to maintain specific distance between the left and right channel?

Ideally you'd have as much distance between the two speakers, as there is between you and each speaker (equilateral triangle).

 

[whazzup]

I was in the market yesterday, asia's supposedly largest IT market, and could not find MR3. They said that I should avoid JBL104 and MR3/4 as these are for mixing sounds and I won't enjoy it for films and games. While I ignored that, would it make sense to have a distance of 2 feet between speakers? or wit bookshelf I need to maintain specific distance between the left and right channel?

Also, anyplace where I learn more about reading the graphs?

I won't say that the 'mixing sounds' comment is TOTALLY BS, but it's irrelevant. It's like saying a Posche is a sports car and cannot be used to buy groceries at Walmart.
What IS relevant is because Edifier positions the MR3 as a studio monitor, AND because they want it to fit the limited desk space of users, AND they traditionally target the budget segment, they have built the speaker based on a certain budget. Meaning from a performance standpoint, the speakers (and the integrated amplifier inside) are meant for desk users ~1 meter away, and not going to play crazy loud to fill a hall. But if you are aware of these limitations, and don't use them in a large living room seated 4-5 metres away without a subwoofer, then they will work more than fine.

To learn about speaker measuerments, you can try this first by Erin(part of his series):

In my office upstairs, I have desktop PC-based audio system in which I use DSP EKIO too feeding XO/Time-Align/EQ-ed 8 channels into one (single!) DAC, OPPO Sonica DAC, driving Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified Computer Speaker having fairly nice sub-woofer; this PC speaker is "still" amazingly nice in total sound quality, including the "well-balanced" by your wording, in desktop PC audio category.
I fully agree with this review; https://www.audioreputation.com/klipsch-promedia-2-1/
Even though the spec for "Frequency response" is 31 Hz - 20 kHz, I can easily hear down to around 24 Hz with little (almost no) distortion!

My main audio system is rather heavy-duty as you can find it here #931 on my project thread.

Oh yah, Klipsch puts out the coolest 2.1 speakers that rival home theatre setups. Erin also did a review of their recent model:

Newer model: https://www.amazon.in/Klipsch-ProMedia-Computer-Subwoofer-Lighting/dp/B0G1W5JS2D/
Older model: https://www.amazon.in/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/

But I think it's a bit over the OP's budget. Plus if he's getting a subwoofer later, combined with the MR3 he'll still be paying half of what a promedia set costs in India. Of course, although the T5 / T5s is adequate, it won't go as low as the promedia sub.

 

[antcollinet]

Also, anyplace where I learn more about reading the graphs?

Don't know if anyone has linked this upthread but just in case...

Understanding Speaker Measurements (Video)

Per popular demand, I recorded a long (1 hour) video on how to read speaker measurements but also, the underlying research (and physics) that mandate some of those concepts. Also covered is equalization and listening tests (briefly). As usual, my videos are "one take" directly recorded and...

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[Folktale]

In my office upstairs, I have desktop PC-based audio system in which I use DSP EKIO too feeding XO/Time-Align/EQ-ed 8 channels into one (single!) DAC, OPPO Sonica DAC, driving Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified Computer Speaker having fairly nice sub-woofer; this PC speaker is "still" amazingly nice in total sound quality, including the "well-balanced" by your wording, in desktop PC audio category.
I fully agree with this review; https://www.audioreputation.com/klipsch-promedia-2-1/
Even though the spec for "Frequency response" is 31 Hz - 20 kHz, I can easily hear down to around 24 Hz with little (almost no) distortion!

My main audio system is rather heavy-duty as you can find it here #931 on my project thread.

I won't say that the 'mixing sounds' comment is TOTALLY BS, but it's irrelevant. It's like saying a Posche is a sports car and cannot be used to buy groceries at Walmart.
What IS relevant is because Edifier positions the MR3 as a studio monitor, AND because they want it to fit the limited desk space of users, AND they traditionally target the budget segment, they have built the speaker based on a certain budget. Meaning from a performance standpoint, the speakers (and the integrated amplifier inside) are meant for desk users ~1 meter away, and not going to play crazy loud to fill a hall. But if you are aware of these limitations, and don't use them in a large living room seated 4-5 metres away without a subwoofer, then they will work more than fine.

To learn about speaker measuerments, you can try this first by Erin(part of his series):

Oh yah, Klipsch puts out the coolest 2.1 speakers that rival home theatre setups. Erin also did a review of their recent model:

Newer model: https://www.amazon.in/Klipsch-ProMedia-Computer-Subwoofer-Lighting/dp/B0G1W5JS2D/
Older model: https://www.amazon.in/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO/

But I think it's a bit over the OP's budget. Plus if he's getting a subwoofer later, combined with the MR3 he'll still be paying half of what a promedia set costs in India. Of course, although the T5 / T5s is adequate, it won't go as low as the promedia sub.

There was a time when Promedia 2.1 was available for $60 but now it is over $500/ I also came across a speaker: Logitech Z623 that are THX certified but people have vouched that that speaker sucks.

 

[Folktale]

Don't know if anyone has linked this upthread but just in case...

Understanding Speaker Measurements (Video)

Per popular demand, I recorded a long (1 hour) video on how to read speaker measurements but also, the underlying research (and physics) that mandate some of those concepts. Also covered is equalization and listening tests (briefly). As usual, my videos are "one take" directly recorded and...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Thank you!

Ideally you'd have as much distance between the two speakers, as there is between you and each speaker (equilateral triangle).

Yeah, I think that is achievable!

 

[whazzup]

There was a time when Promedia 2.1 was available for $60 but now it is over $500/ I also came across a speaker: Logitech Z623 that are THX certified but people have vouched that that speaker sucks.

Think someone did a Z623 teardown before and the 'tweeter' on the speakers were not real drivers just cosmetics.

The Promedia is one of the 'real' pc speakers that have stood the test of time, back when Altec Lansing was still around, but nowadays has been overshadowed by Edifier with their competent and wallet friendly offerings.

 

[Folktale]

Think someone did a Z623 teardown before and the 'tweeter' on the speakers were not real drivers just cosmetics.

The Promedia is one of the 'real' pc speakers that have stood the test of time, back when Altec Lansing was still around, but nowadays has been overshadowed by Edifier with their competent and wallet friendly offerings.

That's surprising!

Too bad the edifiers do not give a proper 2.1 speakers here. Their only desktop speakers are R12u and then M1360 which I was considering before but couldn't find a proper review of them or even feedback from users on forums.

Edifier M1360 Review 2026 | Price, Specs & Verdict | ProAudio Video - Pro Audio Video

The best-value 2.1 desktop speaker system with a real subwoofer under ₹7,000 for Indian PC and laptop users in 2026.

proaudiovideo.in

 

[whazzup]

That's surprising!

Too bad the edifiers do not give a proper 2.1 speakers here. Their only desktop speakers are R12u and then M1360 which I was considering before but couldn't find a proper review of them or even feedback from users on forums.

Edifier M1360 Review 2026 | Price, Specs & Verdict | ProAudio Video - Pro Audio Video

The best-value 2.1 desktop speaker system with a real subwoofer under ₹7,000 for Indian PC and laptop users in 2026.

proaudiovideo.in

Not true. Edifier's answer to Promedia is the S350DB:
https://www.amazon.in/Edifier-Bookshelf-Subwoofer-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B077Y6PHKQ/

Reviewed with measurements by wwenze:

Edifier S350DB review and measurement

Rushing this out before 9.9 for the people who are deciding. Thus the review will be coming in parts. The manufacturer provided their measurement on the box. Variation of 5dB is pretty decent, although the shape is not so decent, particularly the 10kHz peak. This kind of shape is easy to...

forums.hardwarezone.com.sg

But as you can see, you pay the price for the manufacturer 'integrating' things for you. If you want ease of setup, choose the 350db. If you want affordability, then MR3 + T5 / T5s.