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Wattage required for automatic voltage regulator

kevindd992002

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I live in the Philippines where it's pretty common to use automatic voltage regulators to protect sensitive equipments (home theater, computer, etc.) from voltage spikes/drops. I'm wondering how much wattage I need for a home theater setup? This is my first time building an HT system. Here are my hardware choices so far:

LG 55C9 TV
Nvidia Shield TV Pro
PS4
Denon X4600H/X3700H
1 pair of Infinity Reference R162 Bookshelf speaker for the LR channels
Infinity Reference RC263 speaker for the Center channel
An RSL Speedwoofer 10S sub for now (but will consider another one in the future)
Surround - not sure which speaker yet but probably Infinity Reference speakers. Should surround speakers match the brand for the LCR too?

I'll start with a 5.1 setup first and will extend it to a 5.1.2 or even a 5.1.4 setup in the future. So I want to have an automatic voltage regulator that is right enough for what I need today and in the future. I don't want to buy one that's "too much" if you know what I mean.

Thanks for your help.
 

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RayDunzl

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So I want to have an automatic voltage regulator that is right enough for what I need today and in the future. I don't want to buy one that's "too much" if you know what I mean.


What are your choices?

---

You can measure your usage.

Example: Kill-A-Watt EZ

Take that number and maybe multiply x 4 for reserve.

Or, simply match the capacity of the wall outlet - for the future.
 
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kevindd992002

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Choices are 1KW, 1.5KW, 2KW, 3KW. I would've measured if I already have all the components with me but I don't. I only have the TV and Shield so far.

Won't a factor of 4 be just too much? I mean, the things that I'll be adding in the future would just be another sub and the Atmos speakers. I can't imagine adding another device in my HT that will draw a significant amount of power more.
 

RayDunzl

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Won't a factor of 4 be just too much?

Pick a number.

There's steady state power draw, and there is peak draw. I should think you would size for peak use.

An amplifier may draw a steady 10w when idle, but will vary it's draw with music playing.

What is the capacity of your wall outlet: Volts x Amps = VoltAmperes.

That would seem to me to represent the practical maximum.

In the US, a typical outlet is 120V at 15 amperes, or 1800VA.

---

I don't have a "voltage regulator", nor any experience with one, I'm just giving my semi-educated guess here.

I do have an Isolation transformer, which is sized to match the outlet - 120V and 15A = 1800VA
 
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kevindd992002

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I would need to check the circuit breaker where the outlet I'll be using is connected to to confirm. I would think it's also 15A as that's standard here. Although we use 230V so that's a practical maximum of 3450W.

Yes, sizing for peaks makes sense. The sub's peak power consumption is indicated. However, how do you measure for the individual speakers if they are connected to my AVR? I guess that's where I'm confused at. I mean, say for example the X3700H, where it is rated at 105W per channel @ 8Ohms. I read that that number is really not accurate for AVR's but I' not a 100% sure why.
 

Zek

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However, how do you measure for the individual speakers if they are connected to my AVR?
Speakers are not connected to mains, only AVR power rating are important.
power.jpg
 
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kevindd992002

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Ok, so I'll have my outlet rewired to a spare 20A circuit breaker so that gives me 4600W practical maximum.

Yes, I'm aware that speakers aren't connected to mains. So if I list down the power consumption of each HT component, it's something like this:

LG 55C9 TV ->170W
Nvidia Shield TV Pro -> 10 - 15W
PS4 -> 250W maximum power rating
Denon X4600H/X3700H -> 660W active power consumption
An RSL Speedwoofer 10S sub for now (but will consider another one in the future) -> 840W peak for one, so 1680W peak for two

That's approximately 2775W in total. Would you say it's a good bet to get the 3000W voltage regulator?
 

trl

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No, it should be even bigger, because these AVRs should not be loaded with more than 70% of their max. rated power (well, for a minute or two should do, but not for hours).

However, if you will not use the sub and the amp more than 50% of their power, than I guess a 2.5-3KWh should do.

Also, pay attention to the KW! I never saw an AVR stating KW; instead, manufacturers tend to write down KVA instead. 1000VA means about 660W!

You need to look for an AVR with relays inside, not with autotransformer, because of the oversize and weight of the second, but also due to its slow reaction.

You will be cheaper with a device that cuts off the power instead of regulating it, see the below pic. It will cut the power when outside the programmed voltage range. So, it will protect your electronic devices by cutting the power off until the voltage will be within the programmed range (with 6 sec. power ON delay).

1027575_1.jpg
 
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kevindd992002

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Right. Only problem with that device is it doesn't have a 110V transformer and I need that for the devices that I'll be sourcing from the US. I'll check if I can source an AVR that's more than 3000VA because of the real vs apparent watts concern. What happens if you consistenly load them at more than 70% their capacity though?
 

trl

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What happens if you consistenly load them at more than 70% their capacity though?
It might start to make hum noise, the case may resonate and more heat will be generated by the transformer.
You can purchase a small dedicated 110/120V to 220/230V transformer additionally.
 

trl

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My reply was related to "Only problem with that device is it doesn't have a 110V transformer and I need that for the devices that I'll be sourcing from the US". So you can add a small power strip to this device and insert a dedicated 110/220V transformer.

Regarding voltage protection, you can use, of course, an AVR, but you can also find such a cheap external power outlet that cuts-off the power when input voltage is out of range (e.g.: <190V or >250V). Some pics from inside below:

WP_20170129_13_54_27_Pro.jpg WP_20170129_13_55_09_Pro.jpg WP_20170129_13_55_55_Pro.jpg WP_20170129_13_56_24_Pro.jpg
It's all about how much money you want to invest, but also worth telling that such an external outlet protection will cut-off the power, so music will stop until the input voltage will become within the acceptable range + additional 6 seconds (this is also adjustable).

I don't have many power issues at home, but for my Hi-Fi devices I am using the device from above. I had also installed in my electrical panel more 30mA RCCB (for residual currents) to protect life (a RCCB cuts off the power when someone touches a "live" wire), but also an iMSU that cuts off power completely if input voltage is above 275V for about 1 second (usually if someone disconnects externally the "neutral" or swaps the "neutral" with another "live" from a different phase).
 
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kevindd992002

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I understand what you mean. Would a voltage range of 190 to 250V be safe for modern devices nowadays? I guess I'm more after the stability of the output voltage of an AVR if the input voltage is in the range that is still acceptable.

I'm familiar with an RCCB and it's something that I'm planning to install in my electrical panel too in the near future. I'm not familiar with iMSU though but that does seem to be a useful protection device too, I'll look into that.
 
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kevindd992002

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Also, for the device that cuts off the power when outside the input voltage range, are those available in high wattage capacities?
 

trl

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In Europe the accepted residential voltage is 230V +/-10% since few years back. In the past it used to be 230V +/-5%, but seams that electricity distribution companies can't achieve that any longer, so changing the regulations is easier than scaling their network properly. :(

At my home I have between 238V (during the day) and 245V (during the night), so a bit higher then I would like. A relay-based APC 1000VA AVR got recently defective after 2 years of service (strange sounds coming from inside and relays are acting like crazy), same happened on a relay-based APOLLO 650VA and on a servomotor-based WELL 1000VA AVR too.

About the iMSU https://download.schneider-electric...EET_IN_en-GB.pdf&p_Doc_Ref=A9A26500_DATASHEET

Threshold tripping voltage
- 275V 3...15 s
- 300 V 1...5 s
- 350 V 0.25...0.75 s
- 400 V 0.07...0.2 s
Similar devices are manufactured by others too, so it's not only Schneider that owns the patent or something.
L.E.: Finder manufacturer has even better devices that trips based on the input voltage range, with fine adjustment knobs.

Also, for the device that cuts off the power when outside the input voltage range, are those available in high wattage capacities?
I don't think so, but there are available 32A and 40A similar devices that can be installed inside the electrical panel. For these high power tripping devices what it matters is to have contactors inside instead of relays, so read the datasheet before the purchase. Well, relays are also OK, but contactors are even better, this is why I stated that.

L.E.: https://www.ixbt.com/supply/din-voltage-relay-digitop-volt-control-rbuz-review.html (just use Chrome and right click to choose Translate). Notice the "rating not exceeding 75% of the maximum current of the voltage relay".
 
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