There's lots of good resources on the web to learn about tubes:
E.g:
https://tubecad.com/
Tubes are more linear, but higher voltage. Because of their linearity, I guess, in general fewer are required, and less GNFB can be used - which again means fewer are needed.
Also tubes have to amplify more, a 1V input may be 450V at the output tube's anode, and a 450V B+ rail can result in 900V swing due to the inductance of the OPT primary (OPT = OutPut Transformer).
But in general, they are similar to design as transistors - IMO - but they are all NPN - no PNP in tubes

My favourite tube amlpifier I designed myself, using the parts of a Sweet Peach cheap chinese single-ended amplifier, using cheap (but very good) russian GU50 tubes.
My design is fairly unique in that the OPT is not within the GNFB loop. Thorsten Loech write about this, so I tried it, and decided it was indeed, far better. This allows tight feedback between driver triode and output pentode - and results in a huge, expansive sound (currently shaking the sofa with Laura Marling's 'Wild One'). It's about 20Wpc into regular 86dB/Watt speakers (Kef B139/B11-/T27(ish) and it sounds good with avery genre.
Single ended = fewer tubes too. I have one input tube, dual triode ECC88, into 6N2P (two tubes in SRPP) and two power tubes.
PushPull needs a phase splitter, two drivers and then four power tubes - lots more tubes.
I can recommend you get a copy of LTSpice and some tube models from Diyaudio, and play with some circuits.
Currently I'm using LTSpice to play with a push-pull idea (as I have the hardware - another China amp) on the same principles as my single ended: no feedback around the transformer - a pet goal of mine since I heard it - In this case 3 small tubes 2 power tubes per channel: I may need a separate heater transformer
It's possible I also like tubes because they are easier to DIY, assuming one doesn't die of electrocution. point to point wiring requires no PCB

Incidentally when taking apart an old Pioneer transistor amp I found 100V across the big caps - so it's not just tube gear to be careful with, always measure, and add bleed resistors if not fitted ! I actually add LEDs in mine, so there's a light on if there's > 12V around.