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I'm not so sure. I think that behavior would drastically alter the sound of all content played on the speaker.
I'm not so sure. I think that behavior would drastically alter the sound of all content played on the speaker.
In researching some alternatives Hypex offerings, I noticed that @March Audio and others appear to implement their power switch differently. This may help explain why we see some differences amongst those using the same base Hypex module. If the power can be switched to the standby SMPS rather than removing power at the mains input, maybe better shutdown power is possible?
Unless additional circuitry is added, the Hypex behavior would still be the same when mains power is lost, but just thought I'd share.
Well my first try was a bust and am not entirely sure why.
The VTV amplifier sounded fine from power, imaging and noise perspective, but there was a nasty power down pop. It was worse on my bg radia z7 speakers than some of my others, but it was bad enough that I would have to be concerned over tweeter damage. Warren and I discussed and we tried a couple of things, but did not improve. I decided to return it and Warren promptly refunded me.
As Warren pointed out, the Hypex module is self-contained, so not much he could do. Am not sure if it was characteristic of the Hypex design or possibly a defective module, but I am back to shopping for other options.
@Rick Sykora
Frustrating experience but great to have VTV customer service. I'm also curious why there are some reports of power switching pops through the speakers. I anticipate most Hypex implementations would switch power in the same spot and hence Hypex would have considered this scenario and own responsibility for covering it.
What was the source component driving the NC252MP-based VTV? Describe the power down sequences tried (source first, amp first), was pop sound always present and sounding consistent? How was the amp power turned off (rear power switch, 12V trigger removed, simultaneous with source, other). Any pop sound if speakers connected to amp but no input connected and power is switched? Was the input RCA (single ended) converted to XLR or XLR balanced?
Was the amp in stereo or bridged mode? Upon return was Warren at VTV able to reproduce the issue and inquire with Hypex? Sorry for all the questions but curious as Hypex are top performing amp modules excepting this issue.
Nord and others (like have been mentioned) use soft start modules. They may also be a difference which could be a factor to the pop.
Next question: can anyone comment on power down noise present or not on any other Hypex series (NCORE family NC1200 / NC2000 (aka NC2K) / NC500 or any of the UcDxxx line)?
UcD180 on LXMini - goes to standby on mains connection, no noticeable noise, possibly drowned out by the noise of inserting a uk mains plug. If I stick my ear within a foot or so of the speaker there's a quiet rising note for a couple of seconds when going from standby to on, but no pop. Power to standby is silent, and unplugging from standby anything there may be is quieter than the UK mains plug again. I haven't pulled the plug while powered up, and I haven't yet checked the original builder's sequencing.Next question: can anyone comment on power down noise present or not on any other Hypex series (NCORE family NC1200 / NC2000 (aka NC2K) / NC500 or any of the UcDxxx line)?
I have an NC1200 stereo amp and no on/off pops. Just a hum out of my speakers when on which I am trying to figure out. I wonder if I need to separate the grounds like the OP just didAfter inquiring here is the straightforward response from Hypex taking responsibility for the power down "pop" noise on MCxxxMP series.
"
Yes, unfortunately modules from the NCxxxMP series can suffer from this pop to some extent, depending on the application and implementation.
This issue should be resolved on the new revision which will become available shortly.
Kind regards,
Jos Wolthuis | Hypex Electronics BV | Technical Support Engineer | www.hypex.nl
"
Next question: can anyone comment on power down noise present or not on any other Hypex series (NCORE family NC1200 / NC2000 (aka NC2K) / NC500 or any of the UcDxxx line)?
https://www.hypex.nl/ncore-family/
https://www.hypex.nl/ucd-family/
https://www.hypex.nl/mains-powered-ncore-family-ncxxxmp/ < Hypex reports known issue to address with a new revision
I just got an NC502MP which should be the latest version. No ticks or pops when turning on and off, only pure silent operation.Hypex reports that the new version of the MP series is released. This should help with the power down transient. Warren checked and new NC252NP modules are out until August 20. Decided to do 4 channels as I can use to biamp or bridge to stereo if I need more power.
Well my first try was a bust and am not entirely sure why.
The VTV amplifier sounded fine from power, imaging and noise perspective, but there was a nasty power down pop. It was worse on my bg radia z7 speakers than some of my others, but it was bad enough that I would have to be concerned over tweeter damage. Warren and I discussed and we tried a couple of things, but did not improve. I decided to return it and Warren promptly refunded me.
As Warren pointed out, the Hypex module is self-contained, so not much he could do. Am not sure if it was characteristic of the Hypex design or possibly a defective module, but I am back to shopping for other options.
I'm interested in buying one of these amplifiers. Is this modification necessary after buying?Probably the last update on my amp. I finally got around to correcting the PIN 1 wiring so it meets the Hypex/AES48 specification. A few notes:
1) I purchased Nutrik B series connectors only to find out when I went to use them they don't fit. The Ghent case uses a larger spacing for the screw holes.
2) Switchcraft makes a connector (Part No. PQG3FST112) that grounds to the case and fits, but requires that you solder a small jumper from PIN1. I used these, which can be found at https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/PQG3FST112?qs=gNS5EA6ck2YCDqtrBAKwig==
3) I attempted to sand the case by hand where the XLR connector grounds to the case with zero success at removing the anodizing. I ended up having to hit it with a small dremel.
4) No laughing at my soldering. I was never the best solderer to start with and complements of my Mom's side of the family have a thing called essential tremors which cause my hands to shake when trying to focus on small tasks (fortunately not bad, but will get worse as I age more: the good news is the sole effect from it is you shake).
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