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Visiting Japan this spring. Ideas?

stunta

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2 days in Tokyo and then we are with Intrepid on this trip - https://www.intrepidtravel.com/us/japan/land-rising-sun-109495

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I am looking for ideas - food/places to see/things to do that are not the average tripadvisor/travel book. Wife and I don't eat raw fish (I know, I know...)

I want to learn some conversational Japanese before going. Any suggestions on how I can do this efficiently?

Also, any small hifi thing I can grab from there that is only available locally? Would be a good souvenir, at least :)

TIA
 

amirm

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I have been to Japan probably 50 times. :) Spring is a great time to go there.

Nikko and Hakone are OK. Somewhat touristy so not high on my priorities but since you have them, they are good for a visit. Hakone is good for hot springs. Take a dip but make sure you learn some of the rules like which one is for women, and which one is for men. :)

Kyoto is by far my favorite. There is a nice list of top-10 shrines to hit. They sell that book everywhere so get a copy of that and hit as many as you can. The Golden Temple is the best.

Hit the market in Kyoto. And have some lunch at the basement of any major department store. There will be amazing number of displays of every kind of food. See my gallery here: https://amirviews.smugmug.com/Travel/Japan-Food

Here is a tea shop in one of those:

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Hiroshima is significant for the historic aspects (i.e. atomic bomb). The visit to the museum had a big effect on me. The rest of the town is not that interesting. There is however a temple near it that is wonderful but the name escapes me. It has an arch in water that at low tide you can walk to it but at high tide, it sits in water. Quite nice.

In Tokyo hit the fish market (Tsukiji Ichiba) by 5:00am. Yes, that is early but you will be jet lagged and up then anyway. The tuna auction and such start around 6:00am. And lines form for the best sushi there by the same time. It is called Daiwa Sushi: https://www.yelp.com/biz/大和寿司-中央区. The dad and his son run two of them side by side. Both are just as good but the Dad is more friendly. Once you get in, they will ask you what you want to drink. Say "ocha" which is tea. Order "setto menu" which is "set menu." You will get some amazing fish soup followed by some of the best sushi you can have anywhere. They only take cash so make sure you bring about $35/person. After eating sushi you can walk around and see the market.

For electronics hit Yodobashi Camera's main store near Ginza. That's actually close to fish market above so you could hit it when the stores open (although may be a long walk). This is a 9 to 10 story building full of every kind of electronics. One floor is dedicated to higher-end stuff including a large display of headphones.

Kyoto is known for vegetarian food. Try some freshly made tofu in the main market. And better yet, go to a high-end restaurant and have a full course meal ("Kaeseki"). It will be super expensive at $300+ but it will be worth it. :)

Hotels in Japan have some of the best restaurants by the way and if they are western, speak some English and have English menus. So if you don't have a lead, try them. They will be very expensive though.

While in Tokyo get a recommendation for Korean Barbeque. It is better than any place in Korea! There are tons of them and all of them are very good. It is worth splurging for some super fatty Japanese beef ("shimofuri").

Italian food is fantastic by the way due to love of Japanese for noodle and incredible quality of ingredients. I don't have specific names for you but I went to one near opera house and it was the best italian food i have ever had!

On learning Japanese, I learned it from books and such. But today I imagine there are good youtube videos. Focus on ordering food, telling people what you want to drink, how many people in your party, asking for check, etc. Outside of that it is a daunting task.
 
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stunta

stunta

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I am printing your post and taking it with me. This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
 

RayDunzl

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Be sure to hang out with some North Koreans while you're there...

upload_2018-2-17_13-16-49.png
 
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stunta

stunta

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Is there a reliable second-hand camera store there? I have the Nikon J1 with some lenses and have been looking to upgrade to the J5. Wondering if I should buy it here in the US or buy it in Japan.

FleaBay has some good deals from South Korean sellers, but I am not sure if I will receive a camera or just a photo of the camera. They do have good reviews though.
 

amirm

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Exchange rate determines whether stuff is cheaper in Japan vs here. In general, they are more expensive there. I see it is 94 yen to a dollar making it next to impossible that stuff there would be cheaper. The only time I found things cheaper there is when it was above 135.
 

RayDunzl

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I stayed in Kashiwa, and worked in Abiko (both in the far northeast of Tokyo).

Develop some chopstick skills before you go.

---

If you drink (they do):

(Ettiquette):

Go down the street, make a turn and a turn and a turn (to get away from the Westerners)

Find a little Mom and Pop Bar and Grill.

Sit at the bar.

Order a beer. It will probably come with a small glass.

"Master! (or if it is the Mom, "Mama-san!) o-biero kudasai!" (That's about all the Japanese I was able to learn in visits totalling 12 months)

He/she will put it in front of you, and may pour your glass.

Hold up the bottle an make the expression to offer him some.

He'll rummage around for his glass and you pour (never pour your own beer in Japan)

If the guy next to you has an empty glass offer to fill it.

Don't worry, the favor will be returned.

More than likely you will soon have a barfull (won't be but a few people) of new (temporary) friends.

upload_2018-2-17_13-26-5.png


This Master was a Sumo at some earlier point in his life:

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Maybe you'll get invited to a table...

upload_2018-2-17_13-28-3.png


If you get the invitation to go to the "next place", take it. It won't be far.

Maybe you'll develop and affinity for sushi if you try it.

As for Western Food (outside of the places that cater to the West and know what they are doing), don't.

upload_2018-2-17_13-32-59.png


Pizza will always be a surprise. Mussels (as a topping) still in the shell is one item I remember. And whole crabs.

Many many places have plastic food outside to show what they make:


PlasticFoodInJapaneseRestaurantWindow.jpg


They'll often have a picture menu inside.

Worst case (if you go in) you can drag the waiter outside and point to what you think you want.

It may not taste like what you think it should, but that's another story.

---

Easiest way to keep track of money - just think 1000 yen is about $10.00

Carry lots of cash. Don't worry.

Currently, 1 US Dollar equals
106.31 Japanese Yen

Most everything will seem expensive. Just forget it.

I needed a new pencil. Went to SOGO (big department store) found the office supplies (Japanese are nuts about office supplies). Mechanical pencils were in a glass case. Nice girl helped me select a pencil. "That one", I said. She bends down, gets the pencil, hands it to Girl #2, who walks it five feet to the register where Girl#3 rings up the purchase, and hands it to Girl#4 who puts it in a nice little pencil box, and SOGO bag, and hands it to me. Best 100Y I ever spent.

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If you look in a little place and it is empty (no customers) go on in.

Japanese reportedly don't like to go into an empty place.

We did once that in Shinjuku. (trying to avoid the crowd outside, and all the other places nearby seemed full)

Within about 10 minutes the place was full.

The proprietor seemed to be happy with us.

---

If you try to go in someplace and get rejected/not permitted to enter, leave. Don't take it personally.

It may not be because you're Ethnically Declined.

We tried to stumble into one place, got rejected, looked in the window on the way to the next place, it was a bunch of older ladies playing Mah-Jong. So, the doorman made a correct assessment.

Another rejection was (as it turned out) some place whose clientele (we later learned) reputedly included Yakuza members.

---

Order the Japanese Breakfast at the hotel.

---

Don't tip (not sure this is still the case, but two examples):

I left a couple of bucks on the table at a Pizza place.

I left.

About two blocks away somebody is tugging on my arm "You forgot this!"

I should have already guessed, because:

Take two taxis from Narita (out in the countryside International Airport) to Kashiwa (on the outskirts of Metro Tokyo). Give the drivers extra money for the fare (4 of us with luggage). They growl a little and make change. We say keep the change. They just don't seem to understand the concept. We keep trying, no deal. Finally they accept the offer of some soft drinks from the vending machine nearby (there is always a vending machine nearby).

---

You might try not to travel during rush hour.

I took the Joban Line from Kashiwa to Nippi-Nippori and transferred to the Yamanote (Tokyo loop) line about 5pm one Friday. The train was already full. I got "pushed" out and "pushed" back in at most of the stops till I managed to stay "pushed out" at the one I wanted. ("Push" meaning just stuck in the flow).

---

Toiletries/little household items were the hardest thing for me to buy. I couldn't tell what anything was.

Is it Toothpaste? Hair cream? Vaginal Itch? Fungicide?

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---

It's a very disorienting place. One Saturday I rode my bicycle a few miles down the road and came to another little city. Stopped at a yakitory stand and had lunch. Had no idea where I was, decided to go a few more blocks and look at the new town.

Rode one block and there was my Hotel.

Having the "spins" at 3am on a foggy Saturday morning, got out of bed to walk around the block. Got totally lost (miles). Finally figured out the little placards on some telephone poles had city names when I saw mine (Kashiwa - looks like a Christmas Tree and a Birdcage). After an intersection I'd see my town name move closer to the top (and I'd keep walking) or it would have dropped from the list (go back to the intersection and pick another road, try again). I got back to the Hotel about 8:30am.

Learn the "symbol" for your part of town, it can come in handy at the train stations, too.

---

Go anywhere any time you want. The chances of being mugged are as close to zero as imaginable. I never felt threatened. If someone is "looking" at you, they're just "looking".

---

Japanese won't (unlikely) start a conversation with you. You have to make the first move.

---

If you need to make your way through a crowd, extend your arm about eye level, flatten your hand, thumb at the top, wiggle your hand up and down and the crowd will part for your passage.

---

Don't take a taxi/car if you can take a train.

---

Don't refuse to sing Karaoke, doesn't matter how badly you might sing.

I have (or maybe had) a reasonable singing voice.

At one point, the NEC Christmas Party, at the Tamiheden Wedding Hall, I'm on a stage, drink and a borrowed cigarette in hand, doing my best imitation (with some schtick) of Dean Martin singing "Everybody Loves Somebody Sometime", and the crowd went wild...

---

Make sure you have comfortable walking shoes.

---

Have fun. I would.
 
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amirm

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That's a fantastic post Ray. So much of it brings back memories.

Stunta, how familiar are you with Japanese food and how open are you to eating strange things? That determines what recommendations we give.

I for example love Japanese breakfast that Ray mentions. But most westerners cannot fathom eating cold fish (with bones still in it), rice, pickles, etc. for breakfast.
 

RayDunzl

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My breakfast fish was hot off the fire...

It wasn't a big Westerner hotel, though. Most guests were Japanese. NEC America people stayed there (not the big brass who would more likely be downtown for meetings at the Supertower), and they were very accomodating.

Unfortunately, it has been turned into an adjunct (on the right) for a new Wedding chapel thing replacing the parking lot.

https://www.google.com/maps/@35.858...4!1sKxVqMruqdCZxCTSKyftypQ!2e0!7i13312!8i6656
 
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stunta

stunta

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Ray - you should be writing tour books or travel blogs. You are a natural. Thank you for the great write-up.

I grew up pure vegetarian (+eggs) and turned into a meat eater about a decade ago - mostly white meat. Seafood was the toughest to get used to because I could not stand the fishy smell but I am getting better and can handle quite a bit now. Fish with bone-in is fine but it needs to be white fish that is mild. I get grossed out a bit easily so weird stuff is hard for me. My wife is Eastern European and has no issues with most food. The only exception was in China this one time we wandered into a restaurant that looked very popular among the locals and ordered the most popular dish - she spit it out. I have never seen her do that. I tried it too. I've never tasted shit, but this tasted exactly like how I would imagine shit would taste like. We still laugh about it. Otherwise, we had very good food all over China. Guilin had the best tofu we've ever had.

So anyway, back to Japan - I am not too familiar with their cuisine. Having lived in Seattle area where there are a ton of Teriyaki places, one would think I would be familiar but I seriously doubt any of them make food like they do in Japan. What do you think Amir?
 

RayDunzl

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Having lived in Seattle area where there are a ton of Teriyaki places, one would think I would be familiar but I seriously doubt any of them make food like they do in Japan.

Izakaya may be more like what you might want (or want to try). They'd range from casual (more snacky) to more formal (have a good dinner).

Just order little plates of whatever you want, or soups you prepare at the table for more than one.

Most everything should be shared, anyway.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sea.....69i57j0l5.3934j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

More snacky style:

menu_izakaya.jpg


Yakiniku would be another (similar) style, maybe more grilled meat oriented.

Check this, since you'll be travelling. I didn't leave Tokyo Metro, it was astounding enough.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_regional_cuisine
 
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amirm

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So anyway, back to Japan - I am not too familiar with their cuisine. Having lived in Seattle area where there are a ton of Teriyaki places, one would think I would be familiar but I seriously doubt any of them make food like they do in Japan. What do you think Amir?
Not at all :). We do have good Teriyaki here but as you know, it is created by Koreans for Americans. The version in Japan ("Yakitori") involves them cooking every part of chicken on skewers and putting it on your plate until you say stop! Its quality is much higher than what we get here:


Usually you sit at the bar. These guys are sitting in a booth so they ordered set menus.

The girl in glasses keeps saying "Itadakimasu." That is giving "thanks" but without it having a religious meaning. You only say that when among friends/others. Not when the two of you dine there. Note that the "u" is not pronounced at the end: "Ita daki mas"
 

amirm

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Tempura (pronounced Tenpura) in Japan can be superb (and super expensive depending on where you go). Can see live shrimp jumping in and out of batter before they are dropped in hot oil and put on our plate 30 seconds later! So if you are squeamish about raw fish and such, seek out a good one of these.
 

Dialectic

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Also, any small hifi thing I can grab from there that is only available locally? Would be a good souvenir, at least :)

Yes! Go to Dynamic Audio in the Akihabara neighborhood of Tokyo. When I went, I listened to a lot of very interesting (and expensive) systems; you will not hear a larger number of well-configured audiophile systems under one roof anywhere in the world (including the Adelphi Mall and the high rise in Kowloon that has an audio store on nearly every floor).

Though I did not buy anything at Dynamic Audio, the very kind salespeople gave me a nice audio calendar--a perfect souvenir--on the way out.

3Acifx8V31UOvPE8m8tITo5gRFcepfZgBRRfdYoedhOzGveJZ58PkMKJ-AmxONQUPRs2uERKkrlEMt8963jGPS2rV5tmEPMKF__VMsK-dxPpm4xuTA03L30nSxv-L1e22NNvS7pOBA=w1340-h1005-no
 
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stunta

stunta

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Yes! Go to Dynamic Audio in the Akihabara neighborhood of Tokyo. When I went, I listened to a lot of very interesting (and expensive) systems; you will not hear a larger number of well-configured audiophile systems under one roof anywhere in the world (including the Adelphi Mall and the high rise in Kowloon that has an audio store on nearly every floor).

Though I did not buy anything at Dynamic Audio, the very kind salespeople gave me a nice audio calendar--a perfect souvenir--on the way out. A fun experience for me, and my wife and our guide were only mildly bored.

3Acifx8V31UOvPE8m8tITo5gRFcepfZgBRRfdYoedhOzGveJZ58PkMKJ-AmxONQUPRs2uERKkrlEMt8963jGPS2rV5tmEPMKF__VMsK-dxPpm4xuTA03L30nSxv-L1e22NNvS7pOBA=w1340-h1005-no

Thanks .I'll try to make it but time is at a premium. Hopefully we will.be in that vicinity.
 

RayDunzl

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I'll try to make it but time is at a premium.

Bummer...

Took me like a week just to adjust out of jet-lag.

Akihabara - Electric City

Tokyo Subway (and train) map:

upload_2018-2-19_12-54-10.png


PS: Good luck getting anywhere!

360 degree view in Akihabara Station (grab picture to scroll around)


Ueno Station gets my vote for most confusing. I had to go there a lot.
 
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