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Veneer over existing speaker cabinet

sdiver68

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My retired FIL is an expert custom furniture maker with time on his hands. I have a pr of highly regarded Infinity R263 in black that either need to be replaced or changed to fit room aesthetics. Figure total cost to replace is about $1000, after selling these off and buying Polk R600. Unless I splurge and go higher, maybe used Revel F 206/208.

I'm intrigued with the idea of upgrading the R263 with veneer at least sides and top. If done well, the result could rival Revel F series in all aspects and we can choose the exact wood veneer we want.

Since many here in DIY have been there, done that...what advice would you give? Should we attempt to veneer the existing speakers to change from black to walnut OR sell/buy new?
 
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My retired FIL is an expert custom furniture maker with time on his hands. I have a pr of highly regarded Infinity R263 that either need to be replaced or changed to fit room aesthetics. Figure total cost to replace is about $1000, after selling these off and buying Polk R600. Unless I splurge and go higher, maybe used Revel F 206/208.

I'm intrigued with the idea of upgrading the R263 with veneer at least sides and top. If done well, the result could rival Revel F series in all aspects and we can choose the exact finish we want.

Since many here in DIY have been there, done that...what advice would you give? Should we attempt to veneer the existing speakers or just do the swap?
Might be worth trying brushing wax dye, had an old pair of Tannoys bought off EBAY. Electrically OK but with badly sun bleached cabinets. Bought some brushing wax dye, two coats and they looked like new. Not going to cost a lot.
 
Might be worth trying brushing wax dye, had an old pair of Tannoys bought off EBAY. Electrically OK but with badly sun bleached cabinets. Bought some brushing wax dye, two coats and they looked like new. Not going to cost a lot.
Thank you for the idea! To be clear, I am looking to go from Black to Walnut in terms of finish. They look perfect black right now, just not the Walnut wood grain we want.
 
I had my 801s reveneered as they'd got scruffy over the years with several previous owners. The results were well worthwhile.
 

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If you're otherwise happy with the speakers, I say, "Why not?"

I'm no cabinetmaker but I "refaced" some kitchen cabinets a few years ago. It was a "kit" with full-replacement doors, some pre-veneered "thin" side panels, and self-stick veneer for the cabinet fronts. It turned-out fine.

Come to think of it... I did build one additional cabinet (and I used the same refacing kit).
 
Any update on this project? I'm sorry I found it so late but my ears pricked up at the topic because it was the exact same dilemma I faced with my Hales Revelation Threes.
I re-veneered with real wood directly over the existing wood veneer. Since all sides are flat on the Hales, I ended up using the other speaker of the pair as weight over a platen (very flat board) plus lots of other heavy things to create clamping force, because they are huge, heavy and I don't have any kind of vacuum bagging equipment.

It came out well, better than I could have expected, and I'm quire happy with the result.
But after the cost of veneer, glue, trays, rollers, alcohol, dye, dye retarder and lacquer was by no means an inexpensive project.
I would guess approximately $300 in materials because I wanted a specific look that was not available in "stick on" or "iron on" veneers.

I do not know if the veneer on your Infinitys is vinyl or real wood and this might be an important consideration.
 

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Any update on this project? I'm sorry I found it so late but my ears pricked up at the topic because it was the exact same dilemma I faced with my Hales Revelation Threes.
I re-veneered with real wood directly over the existing wood veneer. Since all sides are flat on the Hales, I ended up using the other speaker of the pair as weight over a platen (very flat board) plus lots of other heavy things to create clamping force, because they are huge, heavy and I don't have any kind of vacuum bagging equipment.

It came out well, better than I could have expected, and I'm quire happy with the result.
But after the cost of veneer, glue, trays, rollers, alcohol, dye, dye retarder and lacquer was by no means an inexpensive project.
I would guess approximately $300 in materials because I wanted a specific look that was not available in "stick on" or "iron on" veneers.

I do not know if the veneer on your Infinitys is vinyl or real wood and this might be an important consideration.

I decided to just buy Revel F206 in Walnut. Problem solved!

Still have the Infinity's but hate to ask my FIL to do it now the original purpose is gone.
 
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I've done quite a bit of veneering over the years, it can be tricky.

Recently, I've tried paper backed veneer with heat lock glue. The results have been quite good and it has me thinking of scrapping my veneer press. One of the problems with using an iron on wide pieces of standard wood veneer is splitting. The paper backed veneer worked much better.
 
For me, the only way to get a good surface is via press.. I never had good luck with hide glue on large surfaces. I also didn't spend the time to master it for large surfaces. Obviously it can work. There's plenty of old furniture out there with large surfaces glued using hide glue. But I got tired of fighting it.

I see people also using contact cement, but that can be risky if you are intending to create wrapped around looks because once it is on, it's on. It's not moving.

I like to use raw veneer.

My preference is definitely vacuum. If an already made box, vacuum with an internal bag.
 
Fair warning, it's not cheap.
Nor is an automotive quality paint job. But if you do have the means there are some exquisite burls and other figured veneers if one isn't put off by the busy-ness. Even to do the front panels of my flat speakers, looks like several hundred dollars, and much of it waste after cutting out the drivers. But I am looking for something striking as they will be front and center in the living area.
 
I decided to just buy Revel F206 in Walnut. Problem solved!

Still have the Infinity's but hate to ask my FIL to do it now the original purpose is gone.
I decided to just buy Revel F206 in Walnut. Problem solved!

Still have the Infinity's but hate to ask my FIL to do it now the original purpose is gone.
No chance they can become rears? Thats the kind of logic that guides my hobby purchases (well why not to the Revels, after all these can be used in the den or office, oh wait I can use EQ to get the timbre matched and have a multichannel, which means a new amp etc, etc).
 
I've done quite a bit of veneering over the years, it can be tricky.

Recently, I've tried paper backed veneer with heat lock glue. The results have been quite good and it has me thinking of scrapping my veneer press. One of the problems with using an iron on wide pieces of standard wood veneer is splitting. The paper backed veneer worked much better.
These are paper-backed and I used Heat Lock glue to attach it. First shot ever at veneering, friends and family can't believe I made them! Well, they did see the progression so they know I actually made them! :)
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I have some speaker cabinets that have a damaged vinyl veneer.
I am able to remove myself the speaker drivers and the crossover.
I am wondering if there is some small shop that can place some new vinyl veneer properly.
Did somebody found someartisans for speaker cabinet upgrade?
 
I have some speaker cabinets that have a damaged vinyl veneer.
I am able to remove myself the speaker drivers and the crossover.
I am wondering if there is some small shop that can place some new vinyl veneer properly.
Did somebody found someartisans for speaker cabinet upgrade?
If you're going to resurface a cabinet, why would you opt for vinyl over natural wood veneer?
 
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