USB DAC for Samsung S95C

[VAV]

I'm currently using an Apple USB-C to 3.5 mm adapter (MU7E2ZM/A-AP) connected via a Ugreen USB-C 3.1 (female) to USB-A 2.0 (male) adapter to link my Samsung S95C TV to a pair of Genelec monitors. It mostly works fine, but when using Spotify, I notice intermittent clicks and pops. The issue seems inconsistent, varying in frequency and maybe even intensity from song to song, so I haven’t been able to identify a clear pattern.

I'm considering replacing the Apple dongle with a USB-powered audio interface like the Focusrite Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen. It's reasonably priced (around €90), and according to this Reddit post, it should work well with my TV.

Would you recommend any alternative DACs or interfaces? My main requirements are:

1. USB-powered (maximum 5V 1A, ideally 5V 0.5A)
2. Balanced outputs (XLR preferred, but TRS is acceptable)
3. Volume controllable via the TV remote

 

[VAV]

I would have expected USB DAC support on recent Samsung TVs to be more popular among the ASR crowd!

How are people typically connecting DACs to Samsung TVs, via Toslink or HDMI ARC? Both options seem less practical to me.

Has anyone run into similar issues using the Apple USB-C to 3.5mm dongle with a Samsung TV or any other source? Sound seems normal when watching TV broadcasts, but some songs on Spotify sound like vinyl records.

 

[akafreak]

I tried using a USB DAC on Samsung QN90B : iFi Zen One Signature. The TV does output through a USB DAC. However there are two major issues:

1. TV processes audio digitally to sound good on TV speakers...the bass is boosted and highs are recessed. But it also passes this modified digital signal to USB output. Not to HDMI but to USB and Optical output both. This causes the audio to sound bad on normal speakers
2. You have to keep the USB DAC continuously powered on. Otherwise TV resets back to internal speakers and you have to go to Audio settings to select USB DAC as audio output again. Since you are using a dongle, this might not be a problem for you. But for USB DACs, it is a hassle.

1st issue was a dealbreaker for me. Hence resorted to using HDMI as audio output.

 

[ampguy]

I use an xbox for my video sources for my samsung tv, but xbox goes hdmi to yamaha 7.2 receiver, then hdmi from receiver to the tv, but also a 2nd hdmi from xbox direct to another hdmi input into the samsung tv.

I'm fine with the DACs / processing in the Yamaha receiver for video and even concerts with video. My audio setup (roon, vinyl, cds, fm, cassette deck) is completely isolated from these speakers and setup with a separate rack.

 

[solawind]

Toslink output is fine, you can set your tv sound processing to passthrough and use any dac with optical spdif input

 

[VAV]

• TV processes audio digitally to sound good on TV speakers...the bass is boosted and highs are recessed. But it also passes this modified digital signal to USB output. Not to HDMI but to USB and Optical output both. This causes the audio to sound bad on normal speakers

I don’t have any other way to connect speakers, so I can’t compare USB audio with Toslink or ARC.

• You have to keep the USB DAC continuously powered on. Otherwise TV resets back to internal speakers and you have to go to Audio settings to select USB DAC as audio output again. Since you are using a dongle, this might not be a problem for you. But for USB DACs, it is a hassle.

You’re right, it doesn’t happen with my dongle.

Toslink output is fine, you can set your tv sound processing to passthrough and use any dac with optical spdif input

A bus‑powered USB DAC is convenient because power‑on/off and volume are controlled by the TV remote. ARC and CEC are options, but my past experiences with ARC were poor and CEC was downright horrible.

 

[akafreak]

The problem with both USB and Optical out from Samsung TVs (atleast mine) is processed audio out. Only HDMI is untouched.

So, either get an HDMI audio extractor and then use its optical out to a DAC. But that is adding another point of failure.

Or go full in. Get a Wiim streamer or spare laptop/tab/phone to play your Spotify music. And connect them to a proper DAC.

Using a TV as the main media playback device is full of issues. And you have to keep TV on at all times.

The easiest option here is to use your existing phone to play Spotify music. And Apple Dongle connected to your phone. Apple Dongle is a good enough DAC. Others might be a bit better but you will be hard pressed to hear any difference.

 

[Jazigo]

I can add that I have tried connecting a Topping E50 DAC to my Samsung 90C. This worked fine, but there are several issues:
1. The TV generates an unstable clock on optical, so the DAC will sometimes lose the sync and audio will dropout for a second every once in a while.
2. The audio is altered by the internal DSP. You can turn this off by going in to the service menu of the TV.
3. There is a huge latency between the audio and the picture shown. Most noticable of you play games on this setup.

Ultimately, I just bought a good HDMI 2.1 audio extractor that is between the Xbox and the TV. This was by far the best solution for me.

 

[VAV]

Has anyone measured the frequency response of the TOSLINK audio output? I can understand if Samsung messed up the USB audio implementation, but the TOSLINK output too? That just bizarre.

 

[diaolodoro]

Personally, I bought the Fosi audio ZD3. It has HDMI arc so you can control the speakers volume from the TV remote, has XLR and more connectivity options + bluetooth. However it needs 12V power.
WiiM ultra is another option with added EQ and streaming, but it's more expensive.

 

[akafreak]

I did the tests for my own curiosity and for answering the question asked by OP above.

Conclusion: No difference in PC Optical Out & TV Optical Out. Whatever I said above about being a difference was a psychoacoustic error.

Setup: Same audio file played through both PC and TV Optical Out. DAC used is Fiio BTA30 Pro. Captured by Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 4th Gen.

BTA30 Pro was recognized by TV using USB connection but no audio came out so there are some USB audio issues. It did recognize my other DAC, Fiio BTR5 and played audio over it. But not over BTA30 Pro. So, I wasn't able to test USB Audio Out.

Exact same loudness by DeltaWave program.

Not a single difference between the two audio files.

Don't know what these mean but putting them here for someone more knowledgeable than me:

Also, no jitter issues. Just for fun sake, I used a SMSL PO100 Pro for PC Optical out to get "Jitter Free" Optical out and as you can see, no difference in audio quality between "Jitter Free" PC Optical Out and so called "Jitter Ridden" TV Optical out.

So, don't buy SMSL PO100 Pro for "Jitter Reduction". Only if you want its DDC functionalities.

 

[Jazigo]

Which firmware is the TV on?

If you have setup already there, could you do a run with this tool(https://oblique-audio.com/rtl-utility.php) to check the round trip latency?

 

[akafreak]

The TV is on version 1520. I never connect my TV to the internet and use it as a PC monitor only.

I didn't use a DAW. Just Windows Sound Recorder and it doesn't mention latency anywhere.

However using the same setup in a DAW, I am seeing this...

 

[Jazigo]

That is a very large latency! Are you able to use less samples in the buffers? 512 samples on both should be good, or atleast 1024 samples on input and output.

 

[akafreak]

Okay, so I reran the tests. Same audio file played over PC optical using SMSL PO100 Pro DDC and TV optical out. Didn't test TV USB Out.

DAC used is Fiio BTA30 Pro. Audio Interface is Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 4th Gen.

Using ASIO drivers & Ableton Live DAW recording in stereo. Audio exported in 24 bits 48 kHz WAV file.

Exact same loudness in Delta Wave:

No difference between the two audio files.

Same results.

Again, no idea what these mean but putting here for someone more knowledgeable:

Also tried qualitative test comparing the two files side by side volume matched using "Comparator" tool in Delta Wave. Could not hear a difference between the two files.

 

[Jazigo]

If my math is correct and your software is configured and reporting right, that means that the TV only adds a 15.23 ms latency. That is much lower than what I have measured. If my memory serve me correctly, the latency for optical out was in the range of 90 to 93 ms.

I am on the latest firmware version (2024)

 

[akafreak]

Can you please explain how you calculated the TV latency for my knowledge?

Also, I am using the TV setup as a PC in TV settings. That turns off almost all post processing done by TV. Could that be the reason for latency mismatch?

I am using HDMI 2.1 input set at 4k 120Hz.

 

[Jazigo]

Can you please explain how you calculated the TV latency for my knowledge?

number of buffer / number of samples = latency, so in your case: 256 / 48000 = 5.33 ms. Since you have that for input and output, you multiply 5.33 by 2 and subtract that from the overall roundtrip latency.

Also, I am using the TV setup as a PC in TV settings. That turns off almost all post processing done by TV. Could that be the reason for latency mismatch?

I measured it with my laptop. So I just connected the laptop, but didn't configure the TV go into any specific mode. I assumed it did that by itself.

 

[solawind]

I'm currently using an Apple USB-C to 3.5 mm adapter (MU7E2ZM/A-AP) connected via a Ugreen USB-C 3.1 (female) to USB-A 2.0 (male) adapter to link my Samsung S95C TV to a pair of Genelec monitors. It mostly works fine, but when using Spotify, I notice intermittent clicks and pops. The issue seems inconsistent, varying in frequency and maybe even intensity from song to song, so I haven’t been able to identify a clear pattern.

I'm considering replacing the Apple dongle with a USB-powered audio interface like the Focusrite Scarlett Solo 3rd Gen. It's reasonably priced (around €90), and according to this Reddit post, it should work well with my TV.

Would you recommend any alternative DACs or interfaces? My main requirements are:

1. USB-powered (maximum 5V 1A, ideally 5V 0.5A)
2. Balanced outputs (XLR preferred, but TRS is acceptable)
3. Volume controllable via the TV remote

Dont your genelecs have digital inputs? if so, why bother with dacs at all. I use toslink adapter for my LG TV and neumann monitors with SPDIF inputs.

 

[VAV]

Dont your genelecs have digital inputs? if so, why bother with dacs at all. I use toslink adapter for my LG TV and neumann monitors with SPDIF inputs.

No, only RCA and combo XLR+1/4