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Upgrade strategies

Poyopoyo

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2021
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Hi guys,

I have been passionate about Audio / Hifi since I was 18 years old. And even a few years before with my Amiga computer / Soundtracker / external Acquisition board :D
I even worked for AKM (chip maker) about 10 years ago and supported some non-Hifi projects.
But let's be honest, I am still a newbie in hifi science and I have used the same setup for a very long time.
I would like to kindly ask your help for improvements ideas. I don't now where to start :rolleyes:
My recent improvement was to buy the Bluesound Node 2i.

Here is my current setup:

Poyo Hifi.png



I have a few questions:

1/ what should I upgrade first?
I believe my JM Labs Cobalt 815 speakers are quite good one, and they still deliver the same nice sound since I bought them.
I will mainly use audio files on my network, USB, or from Amazon HD. the CD player is not my priority, mine still works perfectly and I accept its limitations.

2/ Shall I add a DAC / PREAMP device in the chain? max budget: 1200$
* my Yamaha integrated amp has a lot of power but it is an optimized class B. The preamp section is known to be the weak point! Anyway as it is class B, some people will consider it is not Hifi at all
* I would like to try the tube sound, or have the capability to switch between tube and transistor

3/ or shall I change the amp first? max budget: 1200$

Thanks in advance for your inputs!
 
Hi guys,

I have been passionate about Audio / Hifi since I was 18 years old. And even a few years before with my Amiga computer / Soundtracker / external Acquisition board :D
I even worked for AKM (chip maker) about 10 years ago and supported some non-Hifi projects.
But let's be honest, I am still a newbie in hifi science and I have used the same setup for a very long time.
I would like to kindly ask your help for improvements ideas. I don't now where to start :rolleyes:
My recent improvement was to buy the Bluesound Node 2i.

Here is my current setup:

View attachment 126462


I have a few questions:

1/ what should I upgrade first?
I believe my JM Labs Cobalt 815 speakers are quite good one, and they still deliver the same nice sound since I bought them.
I will mainly use audio files on my network, USB, or from Amazon HD. the CD player is not my priority, mine still works perfectly and I accept its limitations.

2/ Shall I add a DAC / PREAMP device in the chain? max budget: 1200$
* my Yamaha integrated amp has a lot of power but it is an optimized class B. The preamp section is known to be the weak point! Anyway as it is class B, some people will consider it is not Hifi at all
* I would like to try the tube sound, or have the capability to switch between tube and transistor

3/ or shall I change the amp first? max budget: 1200$

Thanks in advance for your inputs!
Welcome Aboard @Poyopoyo.
 
If you are happy with your speakers, I am not sure you need to upgrade anything at all. Changing your DAC and amp is unlikely to result in any material change. I would suggest you start with a measurement mic like the UMIK-1, look into digital room correction and take it from there.
 
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Changing your DAC and amp is unlikely to result in any material change
+1

I have a couple RX-596, which is very similar to your AX-596 Both are Yamaha well-regarded TopArt design. Provided you are using via Pure Direct, there is little to be gained by 'upgrading':
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/yamaha-rx-596-receiver-review.10344/

Now compare to the $700 Vidar:
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/schiit-vidar-amplifier-review.12633/

Do you see a reason to 'upgrade'? I don't..:)

Finally, I suggest, with only $1200 for everything, stay away from the tube 'rabbit hole'...Far away..

As mentioned, Room EQ is a place to look for optimal enjoyment of what you have..
 
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If you are happy with your speakers, I am not sure you need to upgrade anything at all. Changing your DAC and amp is unlikely to result in any material change.
Thanks GDK, based on your answer, I understand that to go further in Hifi equipment, I would have to change the speakers first in the future.

I would suggest you start with a measurement mic like the UMIK-1, look into digital room correction and take it from there.
OK I will investigate more about this room correction approach. I guess it can be achieved only through a PC software.
 
If you are happy with your speakers, I am not sure you need to upgrade anything at all. But if you audition some much better speakers you will no longer be happy with your speakers...
 
Do you see a reason to 'upgrade'? I don't..:)

Finally, I suggest, with only $1200 for everything, stay away from the tube 'rabbit hole'...Far away..

As mentioned, Room EQ is a place to look for optimal enjoyment of what you have..

Thanks too for your advices Cahudson42 :D
I must admit I am surprised that my good old amp still offers a nice performance in this price range!
I always loved his performance and my feeling is that it matches well with my speakers.

Anyway I feel bad when I see the current physical configuration in my room, so I will definitely try to improve with Room EQ in the first place.
 
I would rip all the CD's and put them on the NAS for convenience. A couple of Rythmik L12 subs would be nice. Room EQ will improve most systems.
 
+1 to room correction and speaker parametric equalization. That is the thing you can add that will make the biggest improvement.
 
+1 to room correction and speaker parametric equalization. That is the thing you can add that will make the biggest improvement.
Thanks for that, I assume speaker parametric equalization can only be done through a PC software right? or any chance to do it in an another way?
 
+1 sub(s) and Minidsp as DAC/room correction
 
any chance to do it in an another way?
There are DSP hardware boxes of varying complexity and capability. The miniDSP line is probably most known and used.
https://www.minidsp.com/

There is also the Parts Express DSP-408
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...gnal-Processor-for-Home-and-Car-Audio-230-500

A third approach that unfortunately would almost totally consume your $1200 budget would be the RME ADI-2 FS. (This does include a nice Headphone amp, in addition to line outs for the Yamaha):
https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...version-2-dac-and-headphone-amp-review.13379/

A somewhat unorthodox approach might be to utilize the PEQ functionality of the $110 Qudelix 5K. The 3.5mm out would drive the Yamaha via adapter cable to RCA. Unfortunately, there is no Line In. Only USB, and bt:
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/qudelix-5k-bluetooth-dac-headphone-amp.17386/
 
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There are DSP hardware boxes of varying complexity and capability. The miniDSP line is probably most known and used.
https://www.minidsp.com/

There is also the Parts Express DSP-408
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...gnal-Processor-for-Home-and-Car-Audio-230-500

A third approach that unfortunately would almost totally consume your $1200 budget would be the RME ADI-2 FS. (This does include a nice Headphone amp, in addition to line outs for the Yamaha):
https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...version-2-dac-and-headphone-amp-review.13379/

A somewhat unorthodox approach might be to utilize the PEQ functionality of the $110 Qudelix 5K. The 3.5mm out would drive the Yamaha via adapter cable to RCA. Unfortunately, there is no Line In. Only USB, and bt:
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/qudelix-5k-bluetooth-dac-headphone-amp.17386/

Thanks for all these hints!
Regarding the RME ADI-2 Fs, I have seen in the related thread that: "Not only it performs great, but it exceeds the specs of the chip itself!"
As a former AKM employee, you might find interesting that AKM specs are usually under the reality. They tend to put the worst cases (or impossible cases!) as typical value... also their consumer products are often closed to automotive quality which is usually much higher.
 
their consumer products are often closed to automotive quality which is usually much higher

eh?
 
their consumer products are often closed to automotive quality which is usually much higher

eh?
I mean, ppm stuff etc (parts per million defective rate)
the quality metrics are very good for consumer products
Japanese style
 
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