BobbyTimmons
Addicted to Fun and Learning
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If loudspeakers are exposed to sunlight—for instance, every day—the surface hardens due to UV light and becomes brittle (though this is often visible only under high magnification). This damage is then exacerbated by the movement of the driver. Most people are unaware of these long-term effects. Moreover, it makes no difference whether the ambient temperature is warm or cold. Depending on the geographical region, this can amount to anywhere between 10,000 and 20,000 hours of sun exposure over a ten-year period.
Black rubber surrounds have carbon black in their chemical mixture which should block UV from penetrating though? It would increase the absorption of the IR in the sunlight which could be the culprit? There was a video from Dynaudio which argued it was the IR radiation in sunlight which causes the damage to black surrounds by cooking them. https://dynaudio.com/magazine/2025/february/sunlight-damage-ask-the-expert
You think programming a high pass filter as a rumble filter would be a good idea to extend the surround lifespan?The issue observed with the Salon 2 speakers appears to be the result of severe overloading, improper sizing of the surround—or perhaps a combination of both.
I have frequently encountered this type of damage when loudspeakers are used for watching movies—specifically without a subwoofer and without limiting the low-frequency output directed to the main speakers.
While owners often claim they did not overload the speakers, this is simply because they failed to notice when it was happening.
In many films—particularly action movies and those featuring loud, orchestral scores—the low-frequency content is often many times more intense than that found in standard music recordings.
With standard music, you can usually tell immediately when the speakers are reaching their limits; with movies, however, you typically cannot—something I have personally verified through experimentation.
The typical signs of overload damage in such cases include damage and cracks in the cone itself, right where it meets the rubber surround (there are some interesting images illustrating this on KEF’s aluminum cones, where the cones can literally shatter or tear apart); cracks along the inner fold of the rubber surround, right at the junction with the cone; and cracks along the outer fold of the rubber surround, where it joins the driver frame.