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kevinsonic
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Sorry Lpads (you mean the padding inside) Or i assume you mean the tweeter speaker connector ?
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Tweeters for my speakers
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kevinsonic
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Yes, I feel better about this one being 80 watts....Thus far the best option i feel. Just so stressed as a south african cirizen to order from overseas as there is so many costs added once it lands (if it lands at all in my country) I am very much considering ordering them ! Can they be trusted ?Or this one, which looks pretty much like the original tweeter:
View attachment 467696
View attachment 467697
Order Dynavox Mylar Dome Tweeter
Buy the 207953 online at SoundImports ✓ Same day shipping ✓ Low shipping rateswww.soundimports.eu
Final Option: ?
..... I found one more local supplier, the rating also says 80 watts but nothing else, should i maybe rather go with this one below ? (dont mind the link name not sure why it says that, it does lead to the site if clicked upon)
Those “80W” tweeters look okay. For sure, they won’t tolerate 80W 
But they don’t have to, and if they are 8 Ohm, they should be close enough.
But they don’t have to, and if they are 8 Ohm, they should be close enough.
DVDdoug
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A note about power ratings -
Speaker power ratings are tricky and like a lot of audio specs, often dishonest...
A 100W speaker is supposed to be safe with an amplifier hitting 100W on the program peaks. A constant 100W test tone will kill it. And since most of the energy is in the bass and midrange the tweeter doesn't need to handle as much power as the woofer.
If you don't have loud parties or let a teenager or drunk person turn-up the volume you'll probably be OK. This whole thing is a bit of a gamble anyway and since you are trying to keep the costs down you are already limiting your risk.
Speaker power ratings are tricky and like a lot of audio specs, often dishonest...
A 100W speaker is supposed to be safe with an amplifier hitting 100W on the program peaks. A constant 100W test tone will kill it. And since most of the energy is in the bass and midrange the tweeter doesn't need to handle as much power as the woofer.
If you don't have loud parties or let a teenager or drunk person turn-up the volume you'll probably be OK. This whole thing is a bit of a gamble anyway and since you are trying to keep the costs down you are already limiting your risk.
When I think about it, I think Soundimports only ships within Europe:Yes, I feel better about this one being 80 watts....Thus far the best option i feel. Just so stressed as a south african cirizen to order from overseas as there is so many costs added once it lands (if it lands at all in my country) I am very much considering ordering them ! Can they be trusted ?
Final Option: ?
..... I found one more local supplier, the rating also says 80 watts but nothing else, should i maybe rather go with this one below ? (dont mind the link name not sure why it says that, it does lead to the site if clicked upon)
Warehouse in the Netherlands. Fast shipping throughout Europe
International shipping & returns
Find our low international shipping rates on this page
www.soundimports.eu
Maybe that Dynavox Mylar Dome Tweeter 8 Ohm is sold somewhere else that can ship it to South Africa?
I have no idea about import duties for goods that private individuals bring into South Africa.
Tweeter power ratings are generally assuming a crossover of some description. As you should be able to infer from their dimensions, they can't generally handle more than a handful of watts (if that) by themselves.
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kevinsonic
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not again, i spent many months searching for speakers that can replace my previous pair that sounded the part, these ones did minus one tweeter, running around to go listen to speakers will just cost me more than what i had to spend on speakers in the first place. The woofers are pristine. I am going to try these tweeters, Its a 70km drive from where i am
Hope they'll hold. Thank you all for the helpful information.
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kevinsonic
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They just checked and told me it is 3.69 ohms on the multimeter. Will this make a big difference ?
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kevinsonic
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Ok i take it the 4 ohms will over power the tweeter and possibly blow it out as the crossover will remain the same...sigh...back to square one...
Without a half-decent measurement microphone (even of the DIY variety) and a willingness to warm up the soldering iron, swapping tweeters is always going to be a crapshoot.
Broken tweeters are often repairable (a break in the wire is more common than an outright fried voice coil), but it tends to be a hair-raising task that involves soldering hair-thin wires, with a stereo microscope and fine-tipped soldering iron much recommended. Suffice it to say it's not for the faint of heart.
Broken tweeters are often repairable (a break in the wire is more common than an outright fried voice coil), but it tends to be a hair-raising task that involves soldering hair-thin wires, with a stereo microscope and fine-tipped soldering iron much recommended. Suffice it to say it's not for the faint of heart.
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kevinsonic
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But you gave me an idea, maybe i can try to find someone that could possibly fix it.
ordering from ebay seems like a landmine, not sure if things will arrive and if it does what all the added costs would be.
ordering from ebay seems like a landmine, not sure if things will arrive and if it does what all the added costs would be.
Oof, that looks pretty mangled. I would say that's meltage from severe overheating rather than purely mechanical damage. I know that swapping diaphragm + voicecoil in tweeters is a thing, but whether you can even get that for this one is anyone's guess.
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audio_tony
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No disrespect intended here, but I feel you are massively over thinking this. The last tweeters you linked to look perfectly fine.
Those speakers are rated at 80 watts peak - meaning they will likely be good for 40 to 50 watts RMS.
A typical 2 way passive crossover network will typically send 10 to 15% (max) of power to the tweeters.
So if you are inputting 50w to the speakers, the tweeters will typically only 'see' 5 watts of that power.
A tweeter than can truly handle 80watts will cost $$$$ (or in your case RRRR).
The best advice I can offer before connecting any new tweeters, is to ensure that the crossover is intact (if it's even present!!).
The crossover will likely either be attached to the input panel at the rear or on a separate board. It may even be something as simple as single capacitor, but until you provide us with pictures it's impossible to speculate.
You need to ensure that none of the capacitors are short circuit, as based on the pictures of your actual tweeter, it looks as though those speakers have seen a lot more power than they are rated for.
If you press (gently) on the woofers around the center (don't press on the cover) do they move nice and freely - are there no scraping sounds?
I spent several years repairing HiFi gear in SA, and I know first hand how badly speakers in particular can be abused.
What amp are you using with these speakers?
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Westsounds
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You just can't put any replacement components in a speaker unfortunately and expect it to sound anything near balanced. Unless you find a tweeter as near as possible to what's in there. Other than that you might not be able to hear it, and at its worst it'll be completely diffuse or draw attention to itself.
Unless you can modify and design crossovers which you can't obviously otherwise you wouldn't be asking this question, then you're stuck with an anomaly.
one way and perhaps the cheapest (free sometimes) depending on your source is eq it hard and make the speaker sound as balanced as you can with that, or to your liking. If the tweeters too loud cut the hf etc. You could buy a cheap eq or if you run from android, ios, pc whatever use a software eq.
You can blend in and shape some of the most radical sounding drivers using eq. Horns included.
I really like the sound of horns and when used right think are hard to match for that live sound. Different tweeter designs and materials all have different effects but you can tame or extenuat that with eq. And you can always cut bigger holes to fit them or make a simple wood panel to mount it on and fix it to the speaker that way. Making it look pretty will be in the eye of the beholder
Don't fall into the trap of overspending on tweeters most are decent enpugh these days. Avoid piezo though, unless you want the treble sounding like a bad doorbell from the 70s.
Unless you can modify and design crossovers which you can't obviously otherwise you wouldn't be asking this question, then you're stuck with an anomaly.
one way and perhaps the cheapest (free sometimes) depending on your source is eq it hard and make the speaker sound as balanced as you can with that, or to your liking. If the tweeters too loud cut the hf etc. You could buy a cheap eq or if you run from android, ios, pc whatever use a software eq.
You can blend in and shape some of the most radical sounding drivers using eq. Horns included.
I really like the sound of horns and when used right think are hard to match for that live sound. Different tweeter designs and materials all have different effects but you can tame or extenuat that with eq. And you can always cut bigger holes to fit them or make a simple wood panel to mount it on and fix it to the speaker that way. Making it look pretty will be in the eye of the beholder
Don't fall into the trap of overspending on tweeters most are decent enpugh these days. Avoid piezo though, unless you want the treble sounding like a bad doorbell from the 70s.
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If the crossover in your speakers is built/based on an 8 Ohm tweeter and you mount a 4 Ohm tweeter in it you get a different crossover point. It ruins the FR.They just checked and told me it is 3.69 ohms on the multimeter. Will this make a big difference ?
For example, I found a table. Say it's a simple crossover filter with only one capacitor on the tweeter. That tweeter is at 8 Ohm and the crossover point is 2.7 kHz. If you then mount a 4 Ohm tweeter and use the same crossover/capacitor you move the crossover point to 5.4 kHz. Not good.
But you can solve that by putting in the appropriate capacitor, with the right value, if you see what value the one you have now has, that is. If it is a first order crossover (a capacitor plus an coil) that is. If it is higher order crossover than that, it can be fixed, but it will be a more extensive operation.
No that won't happen as long as there's a capacitor protecting the tweeter and you don't play it too loud for too long - which is what has caused the original tweeter to fail.
Don't over-think it. Get some cheap tweeters and just fit them. Speakers working again, job done. They're a budget generic speaker from an OEM, not Genelec studio monitors. Really not worth the time worrying about a difference in frequency response from fitting the 'wrong' tweeter.
See Mart68's answer above. Without a capacitor on your tweeter, you will burn it out pretty quickly.
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