Tweeters for my speakers

[kevinsonic]

So after so many visits and listen's at a few outlets i finally decided to upgrade my sonics as255s to pioneer SH309 towers.

They run at 4 Ohms
And it only says peak power 80 watts.

Now i hope they will surpass my sonics as 255s because they were bought with the intention to upgrade them.

However i cannot listen to them because to my amazement, the guy that sold me the speakers, gave me the speakers with one blown tweeter. The woofers is immaculate though.

My question is, there is an abundance of bullet tweeters available on the market (locally in SA)

Anything under the sun, and some really well praised bullet tweeters, at really good prices.

NOW:

I found these gremlins:

• Bullet tweeters are typically horn-loaded or compression-type tweeters designed for high SPL (sound pressure level).
• They're common in PA systems, car audio, or loud party speakers — not high-fidelity (hi-fi) home audio.
• Known for being very loud, often harsh or piercing if not properly filtered.

1. Poor tonal match: Bullet tweeters often sound too bright or harsh compared to the smooth response expected in hi-fi systems.
2. Limited dispersion: Many bullet tweeters are very directional, creating poor imaging in a stereo home environment.
3. Crossover mismatch: Floorstanding hi-fi speakers are designed with crossovers tailored for dome or soft tweeters — dropping in a bullet tweeter without redoing the crossover will likely:
   • Cause frequency response problems.
   • Risk damaging the tweeter.
4. Impedance mismatch: Many bullet tweeters are 4Ω or even 8Ω, but if their sensitivity differs greatly (e.g., 105dB vs. 88dB), balance will be way off.

Are they really that bad for hifi and will my speakers really sound ungodly and awful with them.

I just can't seem to find dome tweeter replacements in my country.

 

[staticV3]

Yes. You can't just drop in a random tweeter and expect the speaker to work.

Sound will come out, but it won't be good sound.

Woofers and tweeters are the ingredients, the crossover is the recipe.

Change the ingredients without adjusting the recipe and the resulting dish will turn out bad.

 

[DanielT]

Is the Pioneer SH309 towers also called Pioneer S-H240V-QL? In that case, here is a pair in fully working condition that was advertised for $50. No bids:


Advertise for replacement tweeters for them. The same tweeter model.If you find some for around $10-20 it might be worth plugging into the speakers. Otherwise a pair of SH309 / S-H240V-QL doesn't seem worth a full blown DIY project, with all that that entails, to install a new type of tweeter in them (calculations, measurements, new crossover, and so on and so forth).

Or you can take a chance on a pair of Dayton tweeters with WG. If you're super lucky you might just need to attenuate them a bit and it will "work". At least 12 dB filter, not lower then 2.5 kHz crossover point with them:


I wouldn't spend much more than around $30 max for a pair of tweeters on such a project. Far from certain that it will even be ok with such a take a chance and pop in tweeter project. What I would have done instead is ...:

Or buy a pair used:

Wharfedale Diamond 220 Budget Speaker Review

This is a review and detailed measurements of the Diamond 220 from the British speaker company, Wharfedale. I purchased the set for this review from Amazon for US $199 including free shipping. The 220 comes with inset covers for each driver, giving it a classy look despite its low cost. Here...

audiosciencereview.com

..or a pair:

Infinity Primus 150 spinorama measurements (CTA-2034)

Here are some measurements of the Infinity Primus 150 Bookshelf speaker. The MSRP was $198/pair back in 2003. Specifications: Frequency range: 58Hz - 20000Hz (+/- 3dB) Recommended Power: 10 - 100W Sensitivity: 88 dB Nominal impedance: 8 ohms Crossover frequency: 3300 Hz; 24dB/octave...

audiosciencereview.com

Used speakers for $50-120 plus add a used sub for around $100 along with them and you have a good low-cost budget-friendly hifi package.

 

[DVDdoug]

If it was me I'd just look for a "random" tweeter that fits or that you can make fit. (And buy 2 so they match.) If you don't like the results, THEN trash them. (You'll need to solder the connections, or sometimes you can use crimp "quick connects" and you'll need a crimp tool.)

I wouldn't necessarily look for a bullet tweeter but If you get a tweeter with high-sensitivity and it's too "hot" you can add a resistor later to knock-down the signal to the tweeter. If the highs are too "soft" there's nothing you can do but boost the treble.

Another possibility would be to rebuild the whole thing, using just the cabinet. With a new woofer you can check the Thiele-Small parameters and plug them into speaker design software to match/optimize the cabinet (adding or modifying the port, blocking the port to make it sealed, etc.) and you can find a "matching" tweeter and crossover*, and midrange if there is one.

* P.S.
If the crossover "looks simple" (no resistors) or if you can figure-out and understand the schematic, and if you know (or can figure-out) the crossover frequency, you may be able to use it with different drivers. And if you know a little electronics you may be able to make some modifications. Minor modifications would probably involve changing/adding/bypassing resistors that are used to attenuate the tweeter to match the tweeter (or midrange).

 

[TurtlePaul]

Why are you trying to use a bullet tweeter on a speaker that came with dome tweeters?

I would say "I would try some cheap Dayton Audio tweeters from Parts express" but I would be lying. I would just throw those speakers away.

 

[MaxwellsEq]

However i cannot listen to them because to my amazement, the guy that sold me the speakers, gave me the speakers with one blown tweeter

Return them. The seller can't sell those as fit for purpose, unless they stated one tweeter was damaged.

 

[DanielT]

In any case IF these are the speakers, I have to say that visually the original tweeter looks, to be honest, like crap:

Sorry @kevinsonic but that's what I think that tweeter looks like.

I'd bet a month's salary that the Dayton tweeter I mentioned in #3 is much better than that Pioneer tweeter.
(Then we have the whole thing about integrating it into the speakers to make it work, I'll leave that aside.)

 

[kevinsonic]

Is the Pioneer SH309 towers also called Pioneer S-H240V-QL? In that case, here is a pair in fully working condition that was advertised for $50. No bids:
View attachment 467244

Advertise for replacement tweeters for them. The same tweeter model.If you find some for around $10-20 it might be worth plugging into the speakers. Otherwise a pair of SH309 / S-H240V-QL doesn't seem worth a full blown DIY project, with all that that entails, to install a new type of tweeter in them (calculations, measurements, new crossover, and so on and so forth).

Or you can take a chance on a pair of Dayton tweeters with WG. If you're super lucky you might just need to attenuate them a bit and it will "work". At least 12 dB filter, not lower then 2.5 kHz crossover point with them:
View attachment 467245

I wouldn't spend much more than around $30 max for a pair of tweeters on such a project. Far from certain that it will even be ok with such a take a chance and pop in tweeter project. What I would have done instead is ...:

Or buy a pair used:

Wharfedale Diamond 220 Budget Speaker Review

This is a review and detailed measurements of the Diamond 220 from the British speaker company, Wharfedale. I purchased the set for this review from Amazon for US $199 including free shipping. The 220 comes with inset covers for each driver, giving it a classy look despite its low cost. Here...

audiosciencereview.com

..or a pair:

Infinity Primus 150 spinorama measurements (CTA-2034)

Here are some measurements of the Infinity Primus 150 Bookshelf speaker. The MSRP was $198/pair back in 2003. Specifications: Frequency range: 58Hz - 20000Hz (+/- 3dB) Recommended Power: 10 - 100W Sensitivity: 88 dB Nominal impedance: 8 ohms Crossover frequency: 3300 Hz; 24dB/octave...

audiosciencereview.com

Used speakers for $50-120 plus add a used sub for around $100 along with them and you have a good low-cost budget-friendly hifi package.

does not seem the same, mine is different i found a picture i will attach

 

[kevinsonic]

Why are you trying to use a bullet tweeter on a speaker that came with dome tweeters?

I would say "I would try some cheap Dayton Audio tweeters from Parts express" but I would be lying. I would just throw those speakers away.

because i cant find dome tweeters in my country, importing is expensive

 

[kevinsonic]

Return them. The seller can't sell those as fit for purpose, unless they stated one tweeter was damaged.

cant take them back, he did reduce the price on them and the woofers are pristine.

 

[kevinsonic]

In any case IF these are the speakers, I have to say that visually the original tweeter looks, to be honest, like crap:

Sorry @kevinsonic but that's what I think that tweeter looks like.

I'd bet a month's salary that the Dayton tweeter I mentioned in #3 is much better than that Pioneer tweeter.
(Then we have the whole thing about integrating it into the speakers to make it work, I'll leave that aside.)

My speakers are different as per above post, they sound good, minus the the highs.

 

[kevinsonic]

If it was me I'd just look for a "random" tweeter that fits or that you can make fit. (And buy 2 so they match.) If you don't like the results, THEN trash them. (You'll need to solder the connections, or sometimes you can use crimp "quick connects" and you'll need a crimp tool.)

I wouldn't necessarily look for a bullet tweeter but If you get a tweeter with high-sensitivity and it's too "hot" you can add a resistor later to knock-down the signal to the tweeter. If the highs are too "soft" there's nothing you can do but boost the treble.

Another possibility would be to rebuild the whole thing, using just the cabinet. With a new woofer you can check the Thiele-Small parameters and plug them into speaker design software to match/optimize the cabinet (adding or modifying the port, blocking the port to make it sealed, etc.) and you can find a "matching" tweeter and crossover*, and midrange if there is one.

* P.S.
If the crossover "looks simple" (no resistors) or if you can figure-out and understand the schematic, and if you know (or can figure-out) the crossover frequency, you may be able to use it with different drivers. And if you know a little electronics you may be able to make some modifications. Minor modifications would probably involve changing/adding/bypassing resistors that are used to attenuate the tweeter to match the tweeter (or midrange).

This is probably what i need to do but all i can find is high performance car bullet tweeters.

 

[DanielT]

does not seem the same, mine is different i found a picture i will attach

Aha. Are they 8 inch bass drivers?

If you like those 8 inch bass drivers and want to do something with the speaker, you can either, (if you want it to sound good/decent), install a tweeter that has the possibility of a low crossover point (preferably a tweeter with a waveguide in that case). Plus you then need to convert them to 2.5 ways speakers, which I don't think they are today. Requires some calculations, plus some passive crossover components for example (if you don't want a digital/active crossover filter).

Or you install a broadband driver (in its own small separate sealed box). It allows for a lower crossover point, which can be good. For example this one with a crossover point around 500 Hz:

....maybe together with for example the mentioned Dayton tweeter with WG in this thread, crossover pint to midrange drives maybe 3-5 kHz. Then they become three-way speakers. Could possibly be good BUT it requires more calculations and components if you want a passive crossover.
(plus preferably measurements with a microphone, maybe a number of iterations to get it really good)

Note that what I wrote above was just my initial thoughts. Whether you think it's worth the time and money to spend on such a project is up to you.

 

[kevinsonic]

Thanks but that is completely over my head and what i can afford extra, i just want to replace the current tweeters, even if they are not 100% the same.
I just received an email from this company telling me that the tweeter i shown him cant be more than 20 watts.

He suggested to replace it with these:

Tweeter 20W Dome Pair

3 inch magnetic tweeter Frequency Response: 20KHZ-3DB Sensitivity: 89dB / W Rated power: 20W Impedance: 4 ohms

pqsound.co.za

 

[Mart68]

Thanks but that is completely over my head and what i can afford extra, i just want to replace the current tweeters, even if they are not 100% the same.
I just received an email from this company telling me that the tweeter i shown him cant be more than 20 watts.

He suggested to replace it with these:

Tweeter 20W Dome Pair

3 inch magnetic tweeter Frequency Response: 20KHZ-3DB Sensitivity: 89dB / W Rated power: 20W Impedance: 4 ohms

pqsound.co.za

Check they are the right size to fit the existing hole in the cabs, you don't want to be getting into woodwork, not worth the time.

If they fit then I'd get them. It's not ideal just to drop another tweeter in but cost is low and you will then at least have some fully working speakers.

 

[kevinsonic]

Check they are the right size to fit the existing hole in the cabs, you don't want to be getting into woodwork, not worth the time.

If they fit then I'd get them. It's not ideal just to drop another tweeter in but cost is low and you will then at least have some fully working speakers.

Thanks i almost pulled the trigger, but upon further research i realize that the impedance although rated at 4 ohms for the speaker box combined, the tweeter alone is likely 6-8ohms, that means the attached wont be good because as it is 4 ohms ?

 

[DanielT]

Thanks i almost pulled the trigger, but upon further research i realize that the impedance although rated at 4 ohms for the speaker box combined, the tweeter alone is likely 6-8ohms, that means the attached wont be good because as it is 4 ohms ?

Unscrew the tweeter that works, measure its resistance (Ω) with a multimeter. After that, we can recommend tweeters. If you just want a tweeter to pop in, it needs to be the same Ohm and sensitivity as you have now (or another Ohm level but with a different level of sensitivity to match).
Then that tweeter should physically fit in the hole, as @Mart68 mentioned (otherwise if the hole is too small use a wood rasp, too big hole = buy another tweeter) in the baffle plus you have to put the cables +/- on the tweeter correctly, so the tweeter and bass play in the right phase. Otherwise, you will get a big hole in the frequency response/curve.

I don't know anything about the tweeter you were advised about, but we, and others can probably recommend other more well-known tweeters. Maybe not so many if the price for a pair you are willing to spend is max... $50? Plus then X Ohm Y sensitive further limits the range of tweeters but we can probably come up with some suggestions.

Edit:
Or you buy the ones recommended. If they fit physically, there will be sound anyway.
I would have chosen some more recognized brands/models, some proven good/ok tweeters. But okay, it's a question of needs and how much you are willing to spend. Plus how much is worth spending on tweeters for your speakers.

 

[Mart68]

Thanks i almost pulled the trigger, but upon further research i realize that the impedance although rated at 4 ohms for the speaker box combined, the tweeter alone is likely 6-8ohms, that means the attached wont be good because as it is 4 ohms ?

In the circumstances that's really not an issue worth worrying about. Probably the original tweeter is 4 ohm anyway but that's only a nominal value since impedance varies with frequency.

 

[dualazmak]

The below my posts on my project thread would be of your interest and reference, I assume...

- A new series of audio experiments on reflective wide-3D dispersion of super-tweeter sound using random-surface hard-heavy material:
Part-1_ Background, experimental settings, initial preliminary listening tests: #912
Part-2_ Comparison of catalogue specifications of metal horn super-tweeter (ST) FOSTEX T925A and YAMAHA Beryllium dome tweeter (TW) JA-0513; start of intensive listening sessions with wide-3D reflective dispersion of ST sound: #921
Part-3_ Listening evaluation of sound stage (sound image) using excellent-recording-quality lute duet tracks: #926
Part-3.1_ Listening evaluation of sound stage (sound image) using excellent-recording-quality jazz trio album: #927
Part-4_Provisional conclusion to use Case-2 reverse reflective dispersion setting in default daily music listening: #929

- The latest system setup of my DSP-based multichannel multi-SP-driver multi-amplifier fully active audio rig, including updated startup/ignition sequences and shutdown sequences: as of June 26, 2024: #931

- The latest Fq-SPL (re-confirmation) of multiple amplifiers SP high-level output signals and that of room air sound at listening position: all measured by “FFT averaging of recorded cumulative DSP-processed flat white noise” (as of June 8, 2025): #1,009

 

[DanielT]

The below my posts on my project thread would be of your interest and reference, I assume...

- A new series of audio experiments on reflective wide-3D dispersion of super-tweeter sound using random-surface hard-heavy material:
Part-1_ Background, experimental settings, initial preliminary listening tests: #912
Part-2_ Comparison of catalogue specifications of metal horn super-tweeter (ST) FOSTEX T925A and YAMAHA Beryllium dome tweeter (TW) JA-0513; start of intensive listening sessions with wide-3D reflective dispersion of ST sound: #921
Part-3_ Listening evaluation of sound stage (sound image) using excellent-recording-quality lute duet tracks: #926
Part-3.1_ Listening evaluation of sound stage (sound image) using excellent-recording-quality jazz trio album: #927
Part-4_Provisional conclusion to use Case-2 reverse reflective dispersion setting in default daily music listening: #929

- The latest system setup of my DSP-based multichannel multi-SP-driver multi-amplifier fully active audio rig, including updated startup/ignition sequences and shutdown sequences: as of June 26, 2024: #931

- The latest Fq-SPL (re-confirmation) of multiple amplifiers SP high-level output signals and that of room air sound at listening position: all measured by “FFT averaging of recorded cumulative DSP-processed flat white noise” (as of June 8, 2025): #1,009

Good @dualazmak but in this case it's mostly about popping in a replacement tweeter that fits in the baffle hole, a tweeter with the same Ohm/sensitivity as the original tweeter.
TS has received a tweeter replacement suggestion, and why not but I would have preferred a tweeter from a recognized good manufacturer. Although the supply for a pair of such tweeters for around $30-50 is quite limited.