Finally something I have decades of experience with, "tube rolling". To conclude with a couple of distortion measurement tests that different tubes can't impact sonics is pretty weak.
I have spent many hours selecting between various Amperex, Mullard, RCA, Telefunken...tubes for my several guitar amps and know that they have dramatic and repeatable impacts on an amp's sonic performance. Not surprisingly, the tube with the most "tube rolling" sensitivity is the first tube in the circuit that sees the instrument signal. And, the simpler the circuit, the more the tube selection matters (a three preamp tube circuit like a 1959 Fender Tweed Deluxe is very revealing of tube choice versus a seven preamp tube Mesa Boogie, which is less sensitive, but the first tube is still very significant).
If tests do not measure these sonic realities, then the tests aren't measuring the right performance aspects of the circuits.