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Tube-03

FernandoNunes

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Olá a todos. Tenho um Topping D10s e L30 que alimentam um Philips SHP9500 que falta estensão nos graves e sub graves.
A solução para contornar a deficiência do fone seria usar um Schiit Loki Mini +, porém resido no Brasil e os impostos de importação tornam o preço proibitivo.
Depois de muita pesquisa decidi tentar um FX Audio Tube 3 com válvulas GE JAN 5654w e a troca dos cis NE5532P por cis AD827AQ.
Os resultados foram maior corpo nos túmulos e sub túmulos, maior profundidade do palco e aumento da estensão dos médios e agudos sem sibilancia.
Estou aguardando a chegada doa capacitores de filmes Wima 1uF/250V para finalizar o upgrade e confirmar se depois da queima o resultado melhora mais.
 

FernandoNunes

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Quem estiver interessado em saber onde descobri o ci AD827AQ busque no google: XDuoo XD-05 Dac / Amp portátil Introdução - Impressões
Ler páginas 118 e 119.
Abraços.
 

Purdy112

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Hi, i have the tube 03, the sound is not wow, you should change a lot, tube mullard 8100, opamp muse8920 for bass and 8820 or opa 2604 for high trable, and change the some capacitors the 2x10 uF 50v, 2.2 or 4.7 i know the value change with 10uF those are for tube and opeamp, the 0.1 uf 250v change with 1 uF 450 wima capacitors and have a huge change in quality of sound more. All capacitors who are used for tube, opamp, and in/out sound shoud change with wima capacitors. Search on youtube about tube 03 and you will find some video. The sound frome tube are soft like cotton and more detalied... Try the tube 03 you will be happy trust me
 

NiagaraPete

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Using this Tube-03 can you improve the sound quality of a THX AAA 789/Atom/Topping L30?
Tubes are distortion factories and in no way can improve the sound of a transparent DAC.
 

NiagaraPete

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DVDdoug

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This seems like a CRAZY way to boost the bass...

And I'm with SIY, a good amplifier should amplify with no other change in sound. And a good tube design will be tolerant of tube changes and tube aging and remain transparent as long as the tube remains in-spec. (That doesn't apply to guitar amplifiers which do have their own characteristic sound an they are intended to be "part of the instrument", not hi-fi.)

Transistors and MOSFETs vary too (but they don't age or wear out) but most solid state amplifiers work just fine and amplifier performance doesn't vary (with a good design). And it's not very practical to "roll" MOSFETs.
 

Purdy112

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You will get distorsions if the opamp are fake, or the tube aren. t paried, i have a pair of taga harmony tav806f and sound are clean warm and deep baas. I like the sound of tube, i can. t compare with another sound sistem becouse i don. t listen another, i don. t speak about logitech or another 5.1 sistem. If you are curios search on youtube about tube 03 you will se some guys who like this trash...
 

SIY

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You will get distorsions if the opamp are fake, or the tube aren. t paried, i have a pair of taga harmony tav806f and sound are clean warm and deep baas. I like the sound of tube, i can. t compare with another sound sistem becouse i don. t listen another, i don. t speak about logitech or another 5.1 sistem. If you are curios search on youtube about tube 03 you will se some guys who like this trash...
Uh huh.
 

Haider

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Bit late in the day but open her up and take out the op-amps for tube-only pre-amp. I upped my input/output coupling capacitors to 4.7uF. I used Clarity Caps CSA film capacitors. I already had a 12v R Core transformer linear regulated low noise PSU so hooked it up to that https://farmedia.com/tube-audio-line-level-buffers/ he did some SCIENTIFIC tests on the pre-amp

Another good watch is
it basically the same amp via minus the volume/tone controls via op-amp circuit makes some SCIENTIFIC measurements.

What coupling capacitors do: -
 
Last edited:

SIY

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Bit late in the day but open her up and take out the op-amps for tube-only pre-amp. I upped my input/output coupling capacitors to 4.7uF. I used Clarity Caps CSA film capacitors. I already had a 12v R Core transformer linear regulated low noise PSU so hooked it up to that https://farmedia.com/tube-audio-line-level-buffers/ he did some SCIENTIFIC tests on the pre-amp

Another good watch is
it basically the same amp via minus the volume/tone controls via op-amp circuit makes some SCIENTIFIC measurements.

What coupling capacitors do: -
"Scientific," LOLOL.
 

DSJR

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Back in the 90's, Marantz introduced the CD63 player, a nice looking slimline machine which in initial form, had a 'nice smooth' sonic quality to it (CD players could 'sound' slightly different back then and maybe we idiots on the floor made more of this than reality dictates?). This was duly tweaked into the now infamous CD63 KI Signature... I don't know what it is, but so much that 'KI' put into these designs to me basically killed them in my opinion! Said KI Signature CD player had a rough, bright and 'over-egged HiFi' quality to it, not 'better' at all really (the transport was jitter laden too according to Paul Miller now of HFN).

One way we could tone the sound down was putting a Musical Fidelity X-10D valve buffer in the signal path, which calmed down the excesses and warmed the tone back up. Many years later, I bought a good used one (still got it somewhere) and it did indeed alter the tones fed it, but also slightly veiling the sound I thought compared to straight through. A site 'Rock Grotto' did a full upgrade and I bought this kit and with the recommended Russian Mil spec valves. The result after (and later, also beefing up the power supply as recommended), made the thing almost 'invisible' sonically. Below, after modding which included beefed up caps mostly

So, my conclusion was 'What's the effin' point' in using this device when it doesn't change a thing (the original marketing regarding high inout impoedance and low output impedance doesn't really wash these days unless it's a Rega bottom model CD player that needs 50k minimum loading?'

DSCF1350.JPG
 

Jojo

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I gave a test on this thing. There is a big thread on this subject --> "fx audio 6j1" on audiokarma where you can learn a lot (idk if i have the right to put a link or name of another site so tell me if that's a problem and i remove it). I don't remember correctly everything but there is a phase or polarity problem ; can't explain the thing but when running this preamp you have to exchange wiring at both speakers to make them work correctly...). The explanation is provided on the thread i was speaking about.

It add distortion and a roll off in the bass and trebles i think. The usual 25hz-45hz range that my speakers provide loaded by my amp alone was missing.
I changed tubes, caps etc. to give a try. No real difference at listening, at least for me. That's subjective of course.
The only difference i found in the sound was when i swapped the opamp inside for 2x opa1612. Seems to me the sound became less "colorated" (or "distorded" - pick the one you prefer :D). But that's not a proper test, it's subjective. Would love to see it tested before and after this swap. But it stays "bad" in my opinion. I prefer a none distorded sound.
 

fpitas

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Another scatology thread :facepalm:
 

Haider

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Back in the 90's, Marantz introduced the CD63 player, a nice looking slimline machine which in initial form, had a 'nice smooth' sonic quality to it (CD players could 'sound' slightly different back then and maybe we idiots on the floor made more of this than reality dictates?). This was duly tweaked into the now infamous CD63 KI Signature... I don't know what it is, but so much that 'KI' put into these designs to me basically killed them in my opinion! Said KI Signature CD player had a rough, bright and 'over-egged HiFi' quality to it, not 'better' at all really (the transport was jitter laden too according to Paul Miller now of HFN).

One way we could tone the sound down was putting a Musical Fidelity X-10D valve buffer in the signal path, which calmed down the excesses and warmed the tone back up. Many years later, I bought a good used one (still got it somewhere) and it did indeed alter the tones fed it, but also slightly veiling the sound I thought compared to straight through. A site 'Rock Grotto' did a full upgrade and I bought this kit and with the recommended Russian Mil spec valves. The result after (and later, also beefing up the power supply as recommended), made the thing almost 'invisible' sonically. Below, after modding which included beefed up caps mostly

So, my conclusion was 'What's the effin' point' in using this device when it doesn't change a thing (the original marketing regarding high inout impoedance and low output impedance doesn't really wash these days unless it's a Rega bottom model CD player that needs 50k minimum loading?'

View attachment 309556
I do like the Marantz house style.

Modified pre-amp doesn't change the sound of the system drastically. I have Laptop->E1DA 9038D DAC->modded tube pre-amp->Arcam rHead->Sundara so the sound without the pre-amp is quality. It's just a small nip and tuck to round things off. I'm not a gear-head so this will be my first and last headphone system.

I don't like to add things into the signal path. It (pre-amp) makes the sound more "open", like going to open-back headphones from closed-back. It rolls off the top-end so takes the edge off any harshness. Listen to something like the Nils Lofgren Acoustic Live - Keith Don't Go...

my other system laptop->E1DA 9038d->Marantz PM6006->Arcam Muso + Logo 2.1 speakers system
 

Haider

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I gave a test on this thing. There is a big thread on this subject --> "fx audio 6j1" on audiokarma where you can learn a lot (idk if i have the right to put a link or name of another site so tell me if that's a problem and i remove it). I don't remember correctly everything but there is a phase or polarity problem ; can't explain the thing but when running this preamp you have to exchange wiring at both speakers to make them work correctly...). The explanation is provided on the thread i was speaking about.

It add distortion and a roll off in the bass and trebles i think. The usual 25hz-45hz range that my speakers provide loaded by my amp alone was missing.
I changed tubes, caps etc. to give a try. No real difference at listening, at least for me. That's subjective of course.
The only difference i found in the sound was when i swapped the opamp inside for 2x opa1612. Seems to me the sound became less "colorated" (or "distorded" - pick the one you prefer :D). But that's not a proper test, it's subjective. Would love to see it tested before and after this swap. But it stays "bad" in my opinion. I prefer a none distorded sound.

That's true you have to change the red & white cables going into the amp and I changed the input and output coupling from 1uF to 4.7 on https://farmedia.com/tube-audio-line-level-buffers/ 'Rolled off bass response – output coupling capacitor too small? – (yes, 4.7uF looks about right for the TUBE-01).'

I wouldn't bother with the op-amps, tone and volume control...
 
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