Tower speakers on hardwood floors: spikes on discs/coins? Sorbothane/silicone pads? Springs?

[youpassbutter]

Is there any consensus on the best approach for tower speakers on hardwood floors? The manufacturer recommends their rounded spikes on discs/coins. Herbie's sliders seem to be a similar approach. The opposite end of the spectrum seems to be sorbothane/silicone/rubber/etc. pads or cones. Then there are the spring suspension systems like Townshend speaker isolators. No one seems to agree on the best approach. Right now I am running Herbie's fat dots because I am trying to keep the tweeter as close to eye level as possible, I like the look with the speaker base, and it is easy to move the speaker around.

 

[SteveC]

I have an old pair of Thiel's in my video system that are floor standing. My floor is Brazilian Cherry so I definitely care about not scratching it. I just use 3 stick-on felt pads per speaker and that seems to work just fine. Cheap and readily available at your local hardware store of choice. Yes, I've done the spikes (and pennies back in the early '80's). I never thought it made much difference, but I was a Linn guy then so I did what they told me to do!

 

[DVDdoug]

Unless you have some kind of "vibration problem" nothing will make a difference except for very-slightly changing the height or angle. Sometimes when speakers are on a shelf or desk, stuff on the shelf/desk can vibrate & rattle. If your floor vibrates it's probably from soundwaves rather than directly from the speaker cabinet.

I'd use felt (or similar) to protect the floor (and speaker) if the speaker doesn't already have some kind of non-scratching feet.

Ethan Winer - Testing Loudspeaker Isolation Products He didn't test spikes, which I guess are supposed to be the opposite of "isolation".

And just to keep-up your general audiophile skepticism you might want to read Mr. Winer's Audiophoolery.

The manufacturer recommends their rounded spikes on discs/coins.

You'd think the manufacturer would sell the speakers ready-to-go. It's the same with burn-in. If the manufacturer recommends burn-in they should do it at the factory. I work in non-audio electronics and we-burn everything (testing before and after). That's not because it magically improves performance, it's to weed-out any early failures.

 

[Cote Dazur]

Is there any consensus on the best approach for tower speakers on hardwood floors?

There is no consensus, because it does not make any difference to what you hear if you do not know what you have done.
Stability and not damaging either floor or speaker cabinet is the only important factor.
If you believe it makes a difference, have someone switch different method without telling and try to make guesses on what is what. It is a humbling experience.
@SteveC I was Linn guy too and I could ear differences on everything, spikes up or down, cables, different TT support, name it, I am still a Linn guy, because I still own my Linn system, and I still like it very much, but not for the same reasons as 20 years ago.

 

[kemmler3D]

IF (this is not normal) vibration from the speaker cabinet is significant and causing audible problems by re-radiating from the floor, I think springs technically provide the most actual isolation, but they need to have the right properties.

The ones sold for audio tend to be really overpriced. Isolation springs for refrigeration units, generators, etc. are a thing and may be designed for the frequency ranges and weight you care about, if you are really concerned I might look into that. Isolating boxes from their surroundings to prevent sound from traveling through the floor is definitely a need in various applications.

But as others have said, with speakers it's not nearly as serious as they'd have you believe. A well designed speaker is heavy enough not to rock itself back and forth much, and the cabinet should be damped enough not to have a lot of sound escaping or resonances in the panels.

If your speaker is not well designed in that respect then you're probably better off upgrading the speaker than spending $$$ on isolation products.

 

[amper42]

A small piece of carpet cut to size under the speaker is one easy way to protect the floor. In most cases, that's all I need. I have been reluctant to trust sharp spikes on delicate floors with coins/washers when carpet does the trick so well.

 

[youpassbutter]

Unless you have some kind of "vibration problem" nothing will make a difference except for very-slightly changing the height or angle. Sometimes when speakers are on a shelf or desk, stuff on the shelf/desk can vibrate & rattle. If your floor vibrates it's probably from soundwaves rather than directly from the speaker cabinet.

I'd use felt (or similar) to protect the floor (and speaker) if the speaker doesn't already have some kind of non-scratching feet.

Ethan Winer - Testing Loudspeaker Isolation Products He didn't test spikes, which I guess are supposed to be the opposite of "isolation".

And just to keep-up your general audiophile skepticism you might want to read Mr. Winer's Audiophoolery.


You'd think the manufacturer would sell the speakers ready-to-go. It's the same with burn-in. If the manufacturer recommends burn-in they should do it at the factory. I work in non-audio electronics and we-burn everything (testing before and after). That's not because it magically improves performance, it's to weed-out any early failures.

Thanks - and appreciate the articles. They were interesting reads.

 

[Hear Here]

Is there any consensus on the best approach for tower speakers on hardwood floors? The manufacturer recommends their rounded spikes on discs/coins. Herbie's sliders seem to be a similar approach. The opposite end of the spectrum seems to be sorbothane/silicone/rubber/etc. pads or cones. Then there are the spring suspension systems like Townshend speaker isolators. No one seems to agree on the best approach. Right now I am running Herbie's fat dots because I am trying to keep the tweeter as close to eye level as possible, I like the look with the speaker base, and it is easy to move the speaker around.

There are more factors that we need to know about, apart from "hardwood floors". Is that hardwood supported on timber beams (suspended flooring) or is is supported by solid material; such as concrete. What about carpeting?

Whatever your floor material, there is always a choice of alternatives. If you discount spikes (this was the generally preferred method 20-30 years ago), then isolation in various forms is likely to be your best choice.

With my own heavy speakers (95 kg) that stand on timber flooring laid on screed on concrete, I started off with the supplied (rather fancy) spikes, but later experimented with B-fly Tallis Pro L feet without any appreciable sound improvement. I then switched to IsoAcoustic Gaia I feet. These made a noticeable difference in sound, specifically deeper and better defined and more detailed bass, though no increase in volume. They are costly, but if your speakers warrant this expenditure, then Gaias or other similar isolation feet may offer a similar sound benefit. But I wouldn't suggest you spend £1000 on feet if they are to be used with £2000 speakers! Some dealers may loan feet for you want to try before you buy.

 

[tw99]

Just buy some generic M8 feet off eBay for £/$/€10 and stop worrying. This is what I'm using with my £13000 (RRP) speakers...

 

[quattro98]

Is there any consensus on the best approach for tower speakers on hardwood floors? The manufacturer recommends their rounded spikes on discs/coins. Herbie's sliders seem to be a similar approach. The opposite end of the spectrum seems to be sorbothane/silicone/rubber/etc. pads or cones. Then there are the spring suspension systems like Townshend speaker isolators. No one seems to agree on the best approach. Right now I am running Herbie's fat dots because I am trying to keep the tweeter as close to eye level as possible, I like the look with the speaker base, and it is easy to move the speaker around.

The speakers and stands that I have that came with spikes included little protective disks for use on a hard surface floor. I just looked at the manual for the F226 Be. It doesn't look like it comes with protective disks.

This is a random Amazon item that you can use with the included spikes. You could add some felt stickers to these if you want. There are plenty of options, but these will stay centered and do the job.

Amazon.com

These say they're made of stainless steel which is good since there isn't a plating to chip or anything.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B79TP737/

 

[Purité Audio]

There are more factors that we need to know about, apart from "hardwood floors". Is that hardwood supported on timber beams (suspended flooring) or is is supported by solid material; such as concrete. What about carpeting?

Whatever your floor material, there is always a choice of alternatives. If you discount spikes (this was the generally preferred method 20-30 years ago), then isolation in various forms is likely to be your best choice.

With my own heavy speakers (95 kg) that stand on timber flooring laid on screed on concrete, I started off with the supplied (rather fancy) spikes, but later experimented with B-fly Tallis Pro L feet without any appreciable sound improvement. I then switched to IsoAcoustic Gaia I feet. These made a noticeable difference in sound, specifically deeper and better defined and more detailed bass, though no increase in volume. They are costly, but if your speakers warrant this expenditure, then Gaias or other similar isolation feet may offer a similar sound benefit. But I wouldn't suggest you spend £1000 on feet if they are to be used with £2000 speakers! Some dealers may loan feet for you want to try before you buy.

Deeper and more detailed bass, which mechanism would be at play here?
If the bass were deeper ( I can’t see possibly how ) one could use REW to measure it.
I sincerely suspect the only change was inside your head, I wouldn’t advise anyone to buy these expensive baubles.
Keith

 

[youpassbutter]

What comes with your speakers? Is there a floor friendly option? There won't be a difference in sound with any of them. The speakers and stands that I have that came with spikes included little protective disks for use on a hard surface floor.

This is a random Amazon brand of a disc that you can use with the included spikes. You could add some felt stickers to these if you want.

Amazon.com

The speakers come with reversible spikes - one side is sharp and the other is round. The fundamental issue I was wondering about is that you have two seemingly opposite approaches for tower speakers on a suspended hardwood floor - (1) something like spikes on a metal disc that doesn't absorb vibration, and (2) something like a vibration-absorbing rubber pad or footer. It seems the general consensus here is that it doesn't really matter if your speaker is well designed and the more important consideration is having the tweeter at ear height. Which is basically what I am doing at this point.

 

[Purité Audio]

The spike will directly couple and if the rubber is hard it too will directly couple but won’t make a hole in your floor.
Keith

 

[quattro98]

The speakers come with reversible spikes - one side is sharp and the other is round. The fundamental issue I was wondering about is that you have two seemingly opposite approaches for tower speakers on a suspended hardwood floor - (1) something like spikes on a metal disc that doesn't absorb vibration, and (2) something like a vibration-absorbing rubber pad or footer. It seems the general consensus here is that it doesn't really matter if your speaker is well designed and the more important consideration is having the tweeter at ear height. Which is basically what I am doing at this point.

I agree it doesn't matter. I edited my post with a couple of amazon links. My main concern would be the floor. Having little discs with felt means you can slide the speakers for things like cleaning without damaging the floor.

 

[Thomas_A]

Is there any consensus on the best approach for tower speakers on hardwood floors? The manufacturer recommends their rounded spikes on discs/coins. Herbie's sliders seem to be a similar approach. The opposite end of the spectrum seems to be sorbothane/silicone/rubber/etc. pads or cones. Then there are the spring suspension systems like Townshend speaker isolators. No one seems to agree on the best approach. Right now I am running Herbie's fat dots because I am trying to keep the tweeter as close to eye level as possible, I like the look with the speaker base, and it is easy to move the speaker around.

Generally, soft feet that provides isolation does not risk any problems with resonances. It may sometimes be a problem with being wobbly and if there are kids or pets around that could make them fall over.

Springs Under My Speakers: What's Happening?

Regarding the audibility I gave an example with a speaker placed on my hifi equipment rack with hard and soft speaker feet (sonic design). First two sweeps are hard coupling, last two with soft coupling. Perhaps an extreme example, but it shows the principle that applies...

www.audiosciencereview.com

Speaker enclosure vibrations - a few measurements with accelerometer

There are been quite a number of threads dealing with vibrations in speaker cabinets, both in relation to "speaker feet" and vibrations in enclosures themselves. I recently took out my ACH01 accelerometer to do some measurements, both speaker feet and enclosures. There was some initial...

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[kifeep]

Ethan Winer - Testing Loudspeaker Isolation Products He didn't test spikes, which I guess are supposed to be the opposite of "isolation".

Thank you for posting this link. I have a very soft (95-year old, suspended) floor and installed sorbothane bumpers under my mains from the start (so no before/after observations). Apparently this was a waste of money, but luckily it was only $20.

(I'll also admit to having used sorbothane feet under electronics once or twice, but this never had anything to do with isolation in the least – I just liked that they were both tall and grippy whereas OEM feet tend to be one or the other but seldom both.)

 

[youpassbutter]

The spike will directly couple and if the rubber is hard it too will directly couple but won’t make a hole in your floor.
Keith

Spikes on carpet would - but for hardwood, spikes on a disc with felt on the bottom wouldn't, would it? Sorry, liberal arts major here.

 

[quattro98]

Spikes on carpet would - but for hardwood, spikes on a disc with felt on the bottom wouldn't, would it? Sorry, liberal arts major here.

The felt is there to prevent the floor from scratching. Spike (included with speaker) + disk (prevents spike from poking floor) + felt (prevents disk from scratching floor) is what I'd go with.

Rubber won't slide like felt. With felt, you can carefully slide the speakers a little bit while pushing/pulling them from the bottom few inches. If you move them from the top, they will just want to topple over.

A thin layer of felt on the bottom of the disk won't change any kind of coupling. If you put the speakers on some mat like 6" of squishy rubber, something might change, but a normal spike or hard rubber foot that can support the speaker is probably about the same and your speakers came with spikes.

There are countless products which are meant to change the isolation/coupling that are almost certainly a waste of money.

 

[Thomas_A]

Unless you have some kind of "vibration problem" nothing will make a difference except for very-slightly changing the height or angle. Sometimes when speakers are on a shelf or desk, stuff on the shelf/desk can vibrate & rattle. If your floor vibrates it's probably from soundwaves rather than directly from the speaker cabinet.

I'd use felt (or similar) to protect the floor (and speaker) if the speaker doesn't already have some kind of non-scratching feet.

Ethan Winer - Testing Loudspeaker Isolation Products He didn't test spikes, which I guess are supposed to be the opposite of "isolation".

And just to keep-up your general audiophile skepticism you might want to read Mr. Winer's Audiophoolery.


You'd think the manufacturer would sell the speakers ready-to-go. It's the same with burn-in. If the manufacturer recommends burn-in they should do it at the factory. I work in non-audio electronics and we-burn everything (testing before and after). That's not because it magically improves performance, it's to weed-out any early failures.

Testing frequency response in this kind of tests are quite useless since if anything happens, it is distortion that may be audible.

 

[Sal1950]

My JBL HDI-3600 came with rubber sorbothane type feet, that's the way they stayed.
I don't understand why manufacturer insist on 4 feet when 3 would provide a more stable platform?
True for not only speakers but electronics too.