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Topping Pre90 Review (preamplifier)

Rottmannash

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Yeah. I tried that and it sorta worked but, even from about 1m, the failures were too common to allow it to be useful.
All the Topping remotes and the devices they came with (4 of them) are terrible WRT sensitivity and directivity. Thank goodness I hardly ever use them.
 

poopy

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Topping RC-16A the one that comes bundled with the unit.
Sorry I thought that you were using a universal remote control with two units.

Has someone tried a harmony remote control or something similar?
 

Rottmannash

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Sorry I thought that you were using a universal remote control with two units.

Has someone tried a harmony remote control or something similar?
Yes I use one and employ the included IR thingy which I place near the front of the D90SE and it works just fine.
 

da Choge

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Has someone tried a harmony remote control or something similar?

Yes, I, too, use a Harmony (900) with my Topping D90 MQA from about 8+ feet away in my bedroom AV setup. I don't have to be careful about aiming it; it works fine, sometimes even if I aim it at the ceiling. IR remote control with the Pre90 sounds like it's a lot more finicky, but if you used a Harmony or similar universal remote, maybe that would improve things? However, I thought there might have been something in an earlier post alluding to the possibility that it may be the IR receiver (or its window) in the base unit (Pre90) that was more responsible for this suboptimal behavior than the remote itself, but don't quote me on that.
 

Kal Rubinson

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Something I can’t find on the PRE90 is how it acts during power outage.
In my setup I use a power sequencer which is triggered by my DAC.
… when I put the DAC into standby, the power is cut from all devices attached to the power sequencer.

When power is cut from the PRE90 and power comes back, will it 1) start in standby or 2) turn fully on, ready for use?
I have good news for you. I had all my Pre90s set up with XLRin/XLRout/0.0dB and I pulled the plug on one. After about 10seconds, I plugged it back in and it booted up into XLRin/XLRout/0.0dB, just like the others. :)
 

Kal Rubinson

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Yes, I, too, use a Harmony (900) with my Topping D90 MQA from about 8+ feet away in my bedroom AV setup.
Where did you get the Topping D90 codes for your Harmony? Do you know if there are codes for the Pre90 (or are they they same)?
 

glc650

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Has someone tried a harmony remote control or something similar?
I use a D90SE/Pre90 combo with a Harmony Hub/Smart Remote combo at my main location but had to use IR extenders (I was already anyway because of other devices with poor performing IR receivers like my BR player & AVR) to make it all work. I don't use the extenders (2.5mm adapter) that come with the Harmony Hub. I use aftermarket (3.5mm) ones with 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapters to make them work. I have 7 of them (I think two are dual headed) in my main location so had to use splitters there as well. I also have a D90/Pre90 combo in another room with a 2nd Harmony Hub/Smart Remote combo and needed extenders there as well with but only for the Topping devices. The Harmony Hubs work well with Home Assistant which let's me automate things extensively (like being able to switch between amps (tube/solid state) with my voice & turning on just my front subs for music & all my subs for TV).
 
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restorer-john

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You guys with poor IR remotes should do the following:

Ensure the receiver in the unit has the PD/can placed as far forward on the PCB as possible and is square to the mount.
Dismantle the remote and replace the IR LEDs with high output ones, run a few in parallel or drop the series reistor value to get more range.

IR remotes of days gone by had up to 4 LEDs arranged on various angles, were driven harder and the recievers were better mounted. I have some I can use from the opposite end of the house bouncing of white walls or windows.
 

restorer-john

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remotes of old also had 2-4 AA or AAA batteries to give enough power unlike the tiny 3V button cells of todays remotes.

Good point.

But I will say those CR-20xx lithium cells can provide quite a bit of current for their size. But if you are a guy who constantly stabs at his remote, they won't last long.
 

glc650

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You guys with poor IR remotes should do the following
The remote isn't the issue. This is on the device manufacturers. I have or have used plenty of devices that don't have this issue but the Topping DACs and Preamp are some of the worst offenders (right up there with my Marantz AVR and Sony Blu-ray player).
 

misterdog

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You can push the LED up slightly so that it projects further out of the casing.

'Improves' it.
 

Rottmannash

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remotes of old also had 2-4 AA or AAA batteries to give enough power unlike the tiny 3V button cells of todays remotes.
The Topping remotes use 2 AAA's.
 

poopy

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I use a D90SE/Pre90 combo with a Harmony Hub/Smart Remote combo at my main location but had to use IR extenders (I was already anyway because of other devices with poor performing IR receivers like my BR player & AVR) to make it all work. I don't use the extenders (2.5mm adapter) that come with the Harmony Hub. I use aftermarket (3.5mm) ones with 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapters to make them work. I have 7 of them (I think two are dual headed) in my main location so had to use splitters there as well. I also have a D90/Pre90 combo in another room with a 2nd Harmony Hub/Smart Remote combo and needed extenders there as well with but only for the Topping devices. The Harmony Hubs work well with Home Assistant which let's me automate things extensively (like being able to switch between amps (tube/solid state) with my voice & turning on just my front subs for music & all my subs for TV).

I don't get how you configure your Harmony remote control if you want to control your combo D90SE/Pre90. You need the codes usually (like Kal was suggesting). Are they provided?
 

Kal Rubinson

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I don't get how you configure your Harmony remote control if you want to control your combo D90SE/Pre90. You need the codes usually (like Kal was suggesting). Are they provided?
If I get a chance soon, I will try the learning mode for my Harmony remote.
 

da Choge

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Where did you get the Topping D90 codes for your Harmony? Do you know if there are codes for the Pre90 (or are they they same)?
I probably misled you. I don't have the Topping Pre90, just the D90 MQA DAC. However, I went through the Harmony settings (this remote uses the old Logitech Harmony 7.7 software), and from the looks of it, I think they had the Topping D90 DAC, or a similar one in their database. I could have used the IR learning function of the Harmony, but I don't think so; I honestly can't remember for sure. The only way for me to see if they have the Topping in their database is for me to delete the Topping from the Harmony setup and redo it. I also don't know if none, some, or all of the codes for the Pre90 are the same as for my DAC. Sorry, not very helpful, I know.
 

da Choge

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Where did you get the Topping D90 codes for your Harmony?
OK, did a little research and Logitech does have entries for Topping in their database. They are accessible via the old Harmony 7.7 software, but they could also be in the newer My Harmony software. The "Topping" entry can be found under "Amplifiers" and I believe they had one of their techs enter codes for the DX7, but I identified my model as a D90 and Harmony came up with "Topping D90 MQA". I also did a search via Google for "Topping IR codes" and was referred to an ASR thread, in which Amir states that Topping uses the same codes for all their products. The thread is here "Remote Codes for Topping". The remote codes are listed on page 1 of that thread, but when I set my DAC up, I had the Harmony software automatically enter them (I can see now that I did not use the learning function of the Harmony). Unfortunately, there are no discrete codes for inputs (just have to cycle forward or backward through all inputs). Discrete input codes would be great for the Pre90, especially if you have the Ext90. I wish Topping could update their firmware/hardware on the Pre90/Ext90 to have 1) a HT bypass/unity gain setting on at least one of the RCAs, 2) discrete input codes, and 3) improve the IR transmission/reception of their remote. Then purchase of a Pre90/Ext90 combo would be a no-brainer for me :).
 
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glc650

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I don't get how you configure your Harmony remote control if you want to control your combo D90SE/Pre90. You need the codes usually (like Kal was suggesting). Are they provided?
I used the D90 profile that Harmony already had for my D90 and D90SE. I couldn't find the Pre90 so I just used the learning feature that Harmony Hubs have.

Unfortunately, there are no discrete codes for inputs (just have to cycle forward or backward through all inputs). Discrete input codes would be great for the Pre90, especially if you have the Ext90. I wish Topping could update their firmware/hardware on the Pre90/Ext90 to have 1) a HT bypass/unity gain setting on at least one of the RCAs, 2) discrete input codes, and 3) improve the IR transmission/reception of their remote.

I would like to see this too. I couldn't get Harmony to consistently get the right input so now I use Home Assistant to "track" inputs.
 
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guillaumeforum

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Hello everyone, thanks in advance for any help and suggestions.
Recently tried the Topping Pre90 and hock back with Rotel RC1572, here is the listening comparison without any measurement.
My setup is Linn CD12 XLR -- preamp -- Nord IcePower 1200AS2 -- KEF R11, originally chosen Rotel RC1572 due to the L/R subwoofer output which is very rare for stereo preamp, recently read some reviews of Topping Pre90 and bought one, hope it could bring some improvement.
Unfortunately the listening result won't support the idea, I usually turn to 65 on RC1572 for listening symphony, Pre90 need to turn on to-15dB with same volume level, the difference is the middle frenquency became quite thin and high frequency became harsh, Pre90 volume scale is from -99dB to 16dB, -15dB is about 85% of total scale, connected subwoofer through high level connection when using Pre90, and use same crosseover and volume. Seems it doesn't well transport input signal to Amp, my understanding is right? Any idea what cause the result?
CD12 output 4Vrms and impedance is 300 Ohms, IcePower 1200AS2 input impedance is 38K Ohms.
 

poopy

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I used the D90 profile that Harmony already had for my D90 and D90SE. I couldn't find the Pre90 so I just used the learning feature that Harmony Hubs have.
Thanks for clarifying - Will give it a try when I'll get the combos Pre90+Ext90.
 
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