I wouldn't be "shooting" you if you had not said the following with certainty instead of your version aboveDon't shoot me here, but isn't it about distortions coming down into the audible frequency range? There's often non musical 'stuff' at 20 - 30kHz (I remember it being a side effect of SA-CD when that was an 'interesting' format). I'd also respectfully suggest it may help ascertain the stability and competence of the design, but don't hold me to it Whatever, amps with bad IMD figures (19 and 20kHz) back in the 80's definitely seemed to have a sonic 'character,' liked or not...
Sure, let's see a 18+19 kHz IMD and we will know.
Sure, let's see a 18+19 kHz IMD and we will know. Especially at about -40 dB where actual music content is. Until then it is speculation.
Did pma ever follow up to this?Nonlienearity at frequencies up to 20 kHz create difference intermodulation tones in audio band that are situated at subtraction of two frequencies or more complex in case of more frequencies. You cannot oversimplify the way you did. This amp’s high frequency linearity is poor. It is not true that distortion measurements have to be made only with 20 kHz BW. Lot of poor understanding may be seen in these non professional discussions.
I think the broad consensus of the people who have actually taken delivery of one is of satisfaction apart from a loose speaker terminal and one chap who can't get the gain required for his speakers. I'm happy with mine after a week of listening.Did pma ever follow up to this?
I'm going through pages 130-134 in this thread and we're going from 'this amp is very potentially trash' to 'wow upgrading to this amp from an even worse amp is a waste of time and money unless you need features/power/looks'. Lots of controversy, people don't agree if this amp has met transparency quite a while back or if it's a giant question mark. Not often do I see such differences of opinion on whether something is transparent or not here (well if we take out the people who don't believe in measurements).
You possibly may have shot yourself in the foot by modding the lintonsTrue
From my point of view coming from my smsl da9 and my wharfedale linton with upgraded crossovers ...I have no noise problem with da9 and really I don't want a more revealing one on the top end...da9 coupled with my adi2 dac it is more than enough really more Also on da9 if I want I could alter the sound by the mean of included dsp...also this is valid for the adi2dac.
If I want to change de amplifier I want one that will be faster than da9 with much improved dynamics and less analytic with more relaxed bass and low mids well represented.
So So The difference it is as between an muffled wooden barrel and some hires speaker...also tell night and day I enjoy the mod but with the downside of being so revealing you just need to steer away from bad recordings...now they are not old winil songs heaven because will not hide anything some test just recorded but it is not ok because was recorded with just an samsung note 8...the clarity is down 5 steps the bass exagerated and the room eco also bad. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/psjvcpk0s5mzuu3/AAAQna1XmfKE9ZK5UGovB6mba?dl=0You possibly may have shot yourself in the foot by modding the lintons
I think there's less genuine concern than you may be thinking.Did pma ever follow up to this?
I'm going through pages 130-134 in this thread and we're going from 'this amp is very potentially trash' to 'wow upgrading to this amp from an even worse amp is a waste of time and money unless you need features/power/looks'. Lots of controversy, people don't agree if this amp has met transparency quite a while back or if it's a giant question mark. Not often do I see such differences of opinion on whether something is transparent or not here (well if we take out the people who don't believe in measurements).
Maybe some of the best advice I've ever seen on any Hi-Fi forum.or just spend the money on more music to enjoy.
How did you find the PCB build quality and solders ?I picked up one of these as well for a second house system. I haven't listened to it yet, was musing about using it for tweeters in my active XO and since my system is all torn apart anyway (Okto fried in a power surge) so I started hooking it up. I didn't get very far - the speaker binding posts spun around and couldn't connect speaker wire for worries of how it was attached on the backside.
I opened it up and the nuts holding the binding posts weren't even finger tight. Fixed it with a wrench but new owners might want to check this out before using. Remove 4 screws, pry off the volume pot and retaining nut on the shaft and it's an easy fix if you've got the right size open ended metric wrench.
I got -3.74 = 20*LOG10(0.65)
Everything else seemed nice and tight - any other bolted bits + the quality of the connections.How did you find the PCB build quality and solders ?
With these findings u never want to run E50 to PA5 in DAC mode then. Only in Pre mode with -4 to -10dB setting.That is spot on - assuming the dB reading on the DAC is accurate. Bear in mind also 2.6Vrms assumes a sine wave, with a sqrt(2) relationship between rms and peak. (Peak voltages are what hit clipping). If you were to measure real music, then it will be clipping at a different RMS voltage.
However unless you're in a big room a long way from inefficient speakers, then just keep the volume below "ears bleeding" level and you will be fine.
They should have been glued from the factory. Even the very cheap AIYIMA do so. Topping has a lot to learn regarding quality, this is unacceptable with the $350 little box.I opened it up and the nuts holding the binding posts weren't even finger tight