It works great with non-Topping devices as sources.
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Topping Mini 300 Amplifier Review
- Thread starter amirm
- Start date
Not for my preamp(it requires minimum 10Kohm load
)
AI didn't tell my about that amp so i never considered it as a backup amp or to replace what i have (it did come up with some noise problems)
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I need one, where do i get one ?
A tablet
Can i use this for my mini 300 and wiim ultra without using the streamer at the top
www.audiophonics.fr
TOPPING RACK HiFi Rack Aluminium Acrylic for PA3 / MX3 / VX3 / D30 / A30 - Audiophonics
The Rack is a small HiFi support proposed by Topping, in order to install your HiFi devices and in particular the Topping PA3, MX3, VX3, D30, A30.
www.audiophonics.fr
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So people actually use AI to put together their audio systems? :')
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fpitas
Grand Contributor
I'm using one of these for my horn amp now, directly connected to the 111dB/W drivers through 10 ohms of resistance. No audible noise, and no audible turn on or turn off thump. Horn drivers can easily be damaged that way.
I am experiencing strange behavior from my Topping 300 when I connect it to a speaker protector which I purchased from Ebay. The amp exhibits no DC offset when connected directly to the speaker. The speaker protector works when connected to an old solid state amplifier. As soon as I insert the speaker protector in the chain with the Topping, the protector goes into protection mode because of 17DC volts across the amp outputs.
I am starting to think that DC offsets are introduced by the floating supplies of both the Topping and the protector (the protector is powered by 12VAC, which is half-wave rectified to DC by 2 diodes). There is also a 8V DC offset between the ground of my source (AVID MTRX) and the Topping's 1/4" input ground sleeve.
The protector is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403273875050
Has anyone else seen this behavior? Are switching amps not compatible with these types of speaker protectors?
I am starting to think that DC offsets are introduced by the floating supplies of both the Topping and the protector (the protector is powered by 12VAC, which is half-wave rectified to DC by 2 diodes). There is also a 8V DC offset between the ground of my source (AVID MTRX) and the Topping's 1/4" input ground sleeve.
The protector is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403273875050
Has anyone else seen this behavior? Are switching amps not compatible with these types of speaker protectors?
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I’m not following your analysis of what’s causing the problem. I can’t see why there would be any appreciable DC voltage at the Mini300’s signal (not power) inputs.
The first item in the eBay description for the speaker protector states:
1.The DC protection can't work with the Digital Power Amplifier board or BTL Circuits
BTL = Bridge Tied Load. The Topping Mini300 is internally bridged.
Get rid of the speaker protector.
Why do you think you need a $10 speaker protection gizmo? Years ago, when some amps would fail they could put DC on the speaker terminals, but that isn’t much of a worry any more. If you’re really worried about DC getting to your speakers put an appropriately sized capacitor in the path.
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Thanks guys, the thing I didn't understand is the "bridge tied load". This board shorts the amplifier's output lines together causing the amplifier to sense a fault. The board uses a uPC1237 chip to sense DC and control the relays. I may add another board, that may solve the problem, I'll have to think about it. Or find a circuit that works with this type of amp. Or determine if it's even necessary.
Dave TR3A, could you explain why modern amps don't deliver DC to the output when a transistor shorts?
My interest in using the speaker protector comes from previous experience when a shorted output transistor fried one of my rare speakers, so I think more layers of protection are better, as long as they don't introduce their own routes to failure.
Dave TR3A, could you explain why modern amps don't deliver DC to the output when a transistor shorts?
My interest in using the speaker protector comes from previous experience when a shorted output transistor fried one of my rare speakers, so I think more layers of protection are better, as long as they don't introduce their own routes to failure.
This thread discusses the topic.
The TOPPING Mini300 that you're using has a fully balanced architecture where each channel is configured as a Bridge-Tied Load (BTL). Instead of one terminal being "live" and the other being "ground," both the positive (+) and negative (-) speaker terminals are actively driven by separate transistor switching networks. When the amp is idle, both terminals float at exactly half of the supply voltage (e.g., if the external power brick is 38V, both terminals sit at around 19V DC relative to the system ground). Because both terminals have the exact same voltage, the difference between them is 0 volts, so no DC flows through your speaker.
However, unlike vintage direct-coupled amps that could silently burn out a speaker during a transistor failure, modern integrated solutions (including the Mini300) feature intelligent protection circuitry.
The TPA3255 chip that the Mini300 is built around includes integrated DC-offset fault protection. The TPA3255 detects current unbalance or DC offsets across the bridge outputs and shuts down the entire switching stage (putting the output into a high-impedance state) in microseconds to prevent damage to connected speakers.
super. thanks for the detailed post. I didn't realize that the terminals float at half the supply, but I get it now.
Now i have a topping mini 300
Balanced out of an ARTcessories dti and in no pop sound turning it on
First sound impression with elac debut 3.0 very open midrange without sounding harsh, bass is not super deep or punchy but it sounds controlled,neutral, balanced
Volume must be above 12 o'clock to be loud, should be better with rca in but some perfer balanced in for lowest noise and most open sound
Balanced out of an ARTcessories dti and in no pop sound turning it on
First sound impression with elac debut 3.0 very open midrange without sounding harsh, bass is not super deep or punchy but it sounds controlled,neutral, balanced
Volume must be above 12 o'clock to be loud, should be better with rca in but some perfer balanced in for lowest noise and most open sound
Som say do to distortion numbers that i can be a TPA3251 chip
Yes, but both TPA3255 and 3251 have the same topology, schematics and protections.
No one really know if its a 3251 or 3255 chip, i just know it has a very open sound, not harsh and it's as good as a wiim vibelink (despite it being alot more expensive)
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Steve Dallas
Major Contributor
Here is my not so mini review of the Mini 300 after 30 days...
My home office setup is Silent PC (w/Dirac) ->MOTU M4 -> Mini 300 -> OG KEF R3. My listening distance is about 7' from the speakers. Balanced TRS connections are used between the DAC and amp. The Mini 300 volume control is at 100% and the M4 volume control is at 50%. PC volume controls are all set to 100% with a -10dB gain reduction in the Dirac standalone processor. I do not run subs in this room.
Average SPL is ~65dBc with peaks of ~70dBc as measured with a Radio Shack SPL meter in the center of my headspace. The amp is on for roughly 12 hours per day with music playing about half that time.
My objective was to move from RCA to balanced connections to reduce noise and sell my Peachtree Nova 300 while it still has considerable resale value, as I am not using any of its many features beyond the amp itself in HTB mode. The decision was between the Buckeye NCx252MP 2 channel and the Mini 300 at 1/5 the price, 1/4 the size, and 1/3 the power.
Results are that I don't notice any difference at all except the very slight tweeter hiss and intermittent RFI noise I had with the Nova is gone. The Mini 300 keeps up just fine and sounds exactly the same while managing to use less power, run cooler, be smaller, and be quieter.
Heat has not been a problem. It sits on a console in 76F / 24C open air and barely gets warm to the touch, even after hours of use. The power supply sits on the floor under the console, where it also barely gets warm.
In terms of power, it is again fine for my use case. Since most of us actually use < 5 Watts the vast majority of the time, the old 100W at 8R rule for home audio still holds, and half that power for lower SPL in smaller rooms is perfectly suitable. Zero concerns.
As previously mentioned, I do not believe the comments claiming the Mini 300 sounds lean--at least in my use case. KEF R3s are not the easiest speakers to drive in the bass region, and the Mini 300 sounds exactly the same across the FR as the 5.5x more powerful ICEpower Nova 300. People claiming it sounds lean must be pushing it beyond its design limits or are victims of sight bias in which the small things must sound small, much like people believe metal dome tweeters sound metallic, silk dome tweeters sound soft and smooth, ribbons sound airy, etc.
Assuming the Mini 300 is reliable and can sit there and do amp things trouble-free for years, I am very pleased with it.
For those who may be interested, here is a graph of my right speaker showing its Dirac-corrected and slightly extended response as driven to ~75dB average by the Mini 300 during setup / testing:
Not lean.
My home office setup is Silent PC (w/Dirac) ->MOTU M4 -> Mini 300 -> OG KEF R3. My listening distance is about 7' from the speakers. Balanced TRS connections are used between the DAC and amp. The Mini 300 volume control is at 100% and the M4 volume control is at 50%. PC volume controls are all set to 100% with a -10dB gain reduction in the Dirac standalone processor. I do not run subs in this room.
Average SPL is ~65dBc with peaks of ~70dBc as measured with a Radio Shack SPL meter in the center of my headspace. The amp is on for roughly 12 hours per day with music playing about half that time.
My objective was to move from RCA to balanced connections to reduce noise and sell my Peachtree Nova 300 while it still has considerable resale value, as I am not using any of its many features beyond the amp itself in HTB mode. The decision was between the Buckeye NCx252MP 2 channel and the Mini 300 at 1/5 the price, 1/4 the size, and 1/3 the power.
Results are that I don't notice any difference at all except the very slight tweeter hiss and intermittent RFI noise I had with the Nova is gone. The Mini 300 keeps up just fine and sounds exactly the same while managing to use less power, run cooler, be smaller, and be quieter.
Heat has not been a problem. It sits on a console in 76F / 24C open air and barely gets warm to the touch, even after hours of use. The power supply sits on the floor under the console, where it also barely gets warm.
In terms of power, it is again fine for my use case. Since most of us actually use < 5 Watts the vast majority of the time, the old 100W at 8R rule for home audio still holds, and half that power for lower SPL in smaller rooms is perfectly suitable. Zero concerns.
As previously mentioned, I do not believe the comments claiming the Mini 300 sounds lean--at least in my use case. KEF R3s are not the easiest speakers to drive in the bass region, and the Mini 300 sounds exactly the same across the FR as the 5.5x more powerful ICEpower Nova 300. People claiming it sounds lean must be pushing it beyond its design limits or are victims of sight bias in which the small things must sound small, much like people believe metal dome tweeters sound metallic, silk dome tweeters sound soft and smooth, ribbons sound airy, etc.
Assuming the Mini 300 is reliable and can sit there and do amp things trouble-free for years, I am very pleased with it.
For those who may be interested, here is a graph of my right speaker showing its Dirac-corrected and slightly extended response as driven to ~75dB average by the Mini 300 during setup / testing:
Not lean.
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I purchased mine in January and leave it on 24/7 (turning down at bedtime) stacked on the E70V. Going from RCA (especially in configuration with a computer) to balanced was a joy. I could never crack the problem of getting silence even with the HS02 isolator on the usb line. The Mini 300 is such a nice unit and the looks work for me too.
Looks like you are running full correction. If you like your speaker's response above 500 hz, you could try just a partial and see if that livens things up.
I agree, there's no reason this amplifier should sound lean. It has to be down to the speaker or setup.
Looks like you are running full correction. If you like your speaker's response above 500 hz, you could try just a partial and see if that livens things up.
I agree, there's no reason this amplifier should sound lean. It has to be down to the speaker or setup.
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