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Topping Mini 300 Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 2 0.6%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 12 3.7%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 55 16.9%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 256 78.8%

  • Total voters
    325
Sorry, that doesn't make sense. You're overlooking why Topping chose this cooling design and why it is so optimal, especially for this specific amplifier.
Of course, it is incredibly easy and cheap to implement cooling based on direct convection using a finned heatsink. However, the "more is better" approach is actually counterproductive to the amplifier electronics' performance.
There is a vast difference between maximum convection—often found in cheap amplifiers simply because it is a low-cost, simple solution—and indirect convection precisely tailored to the specific use case. The latter is significantly more expensive to develop and test until it is optimized.
There are many small pieces of the puzzle that enable the Mini 300, PA5(II), and 3E Audio A5/A7 to achieve the best measurement results and performance among TPA3251/55-based amplifiers.

Still doesn't seem optimal to me, didn't the pa5 have a high failure rate as acknowledged by topping due to overheating of internal components? It's not like these manufacturers are infallible and have a perfect track record. The fosi mono blocks also have a high rate of overheating due to lack of ventilation as another example.
This topping design is dumping heat inside the chassis and not removing it efficiently, and if we're talking about developing and testing till you get an optimum design for a perfect level of airflow for the system then I highly doubt they've done that, they have huge cutouts on the bottom that are 90% blocked by the insulating sheet below the pcb. It almost feels like they designed it without that insulator in mind then found after fabbing some that the tolerances weren't quite right and there was risk of component contact with the chassis so rather than spend money on a redo it was cheaper to just slap the insulator on the PCBs and ignore that it blocks the vents.
The A5/A7 and fosi V3 designs as discussed directly move the heat outside and are much better cooling solutions. Again I'm not saying it's unsafe just that it doesn't seem ideal when you compare it to other solutions.
 
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Still doesn't seem optimal to me, didn't the pa5 have a high failure rate as acknowledged by topping due to overheating of internal components? It's not like these manufacturers are infallible and have a perfect track record. The fosi mono blocks also have a high rate of overheating due to lack of ventilation as another example.
This topping design is dumping heat inside the chassis and not removing it efficiently, and if we're talking about developing and testing till you get an optimum design for a perfect level of airflow for the system then I highly doubt they've done that, they have huge cutouts on the bottom that are 90% blocked by the insulating sheet below the pcb. It almost feels like they designed it without that insulator in mind then found after fabbing some that the tolerances weren't quite right and there was risk of component contact with the chassis so rather than spend money on a redo it was cheaper to just slap the insulator on the PCBs and ignore that it blocks the vents.
The A5/A7 and fosi V3 designs as discussed directly move the heat outside and are much better cooling solutions. Again I'm not saying it's unsafe just that it doesn't seem ideal when you compare it to other solutions.
The PA5 never had a heat problem; that is just another one of those myths.
The potting compound caused failures, but not due to heat or overheating. All units where the potting compound was removed—or where the potted module was replaced with an unpotted one—operate flawlessly.

As I noted before, there are certain things you simply don't want to understand, and you keep ignoring them. But that’s up to you.

Incidentally, the Mini 300 runs 2–5°C cooler than the 3E Audio A5/A7(se) in identical situations, even at room or ambient temperatures of 35°C. That must be due to the Mini 300's poor cooling design.
However, I actually prefer the higher operating temperature of the A5, as it is closer to the ideal operating point.
 
The PA5 never had a heat problem; that is just another one of those myths.
The potting compound caused failures, but not due to heat or overheating. All units where the potting compound was removed—or where the potted module was replaced with an unpotted one—operate flawlessly.

As I noted before, there are certain things you simply don't want to understand, and you keep ignoring them. But that’s up to you.

Incidentally, the Mini 300 runs 2–5°C cooler than the 3E Audio A5/A7(se) in identical situations, even at room or ambient temperatures of 35°C. That must be due to the Mini 300's poor cooling design.
However, I actually prefer the higher operating temperature of the A5, as it is closer to the ideal operating point.

I do understand what you are saying about achieving a stable temperature, I just simply don't agree that the method topping are using in this design is the best way to go about it or that it is some design they have spent a lot of time and money on to precisely tailor it's airflow as you seem to be suggesting.
Manufacturers often run designs at the edge of what is suitable to bring costs down, sure they work but they could be better. Toppings PA7, their own higher-end model that was released after the PA5, uses a heatsink design that directly couples the heatsink to the chassis via a large block of metal and has more ventilation along the sides. Why would they not do this for the lower-end models as well if it's clearly suitable for the top tier? The only answer can be to save cost and not because the pa5/mini 300 has a perfect design.
Lots of designs work, it doesn't mean they are ideal or the best way to do something.
 
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Most users are unaware that amplifiers, in particular, should maintain a certain minimum operating temperature—and that this temperature should remain as constant as possible.

I'm sorry but didn't Amir already prove that at least for the mini 300, heat does not affect performance ( *how do i 'relink' an image shared on ASR as an image not a url? ):

Which means the cooler running it is (note: not talking about below freezing temps), the better. Because, physics.
Which also means that reducing / dispersing heat as much as possible will only yield longevity benefits. Just like for almost every piece of electronics out there, especially in our current world where heatwaves are breaking records every year.

I enjoy Topping's strive for performance, but I'm not naive enough to think that 'component cost cutting' or 'get the product out before it's ready' doesn't exist for their for-profit company. Ensuring their products last 20 years is not on most companies' todo lists. Because, economics.

The individual components aren't going to need any help from us to perform at their best, because heat is a by-product not a pre-requisite for wonderful electronics audio! But they WILL heat up increasingly if left unchecked, and that's where we need to step in if we want them to stay useful to us. Companies are incentivised / forced to do just enough to make sure their products can last for a year or so.
 
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This is where I've ended up, you can feel the small amount of airflow through it now. I'm sure it will more efficiently cool the rest of the components, hopefully leading to a longer life.
Every other device is well ventilated for this reason, I simply see no benefit to toppings design retaining more of the heat from the 3251 chip and heating up everything else within the chassis rather than directly venting it, this will still be stable just at a slightly lower temperature. Best case I get a better lifespan, worst case nothing changes.

32782.jpg
 
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I have a Topping PA5 II, basically a pre-rebranded mini 300 and have no need of additional cooling even in these ridiculous 40 degrees temperatures we've had of late.
I wonder if these cooling anxieties are a leftover from the original PA5 with its overheating failures?
 
I have a Topping PA5 II, basically a pre-rebranded mini 300 and have no need of additional cooling even in these ridiculous 40 degrees temperatures we've had of late.
I wonder if these cooling anxieties are a leftover from the original PA5 with its overheating failures?
I wouldn't call it anxiety but electronic components lifespans are very temperature dependent even when run safely within spec so the cooler you can keep it the longer it's life will be.
 
I have a Topping PA5 II, basically a pre-rebranded mini 300 and have no need of additional cooling even in these ridiculous 40 degrees temperatures we've had of late.
I wonder if these cooling anxieties are a leftover from the original PA5 with its overheating failures?
Yes, you often see a kind of "heat hysteria" on this forum that is completely unfounded.
Amplifier generations from the last 40–50 years had a lifespan of at least 20–30 years with internal temperatures of 45–50°C (and sometimes even higher for AVRs).
Yet now, 35°C is suddenly considered a huge problem.
It is pure scaremongering with no basis in reality.

The heat issue with the PA5 is also complete nonsense—nothing more than a myth. The potting compound used and sloppy workmanship led to entirely different problems.
All repaired PA5 units (with the potting compound removed) run perfectly, and the cooling design remained unchanged for the PA5 II and Mini 300.
 
I have a Topping PA5 II, basically a pre-rebranded mini 300 and have no need of additional cooling even in these ridiculous 40 degrees temperatures we've had of late.
I wonder if these cooling anxieties are a leftover from the original PA5 with its overheating failures?

Anecdotal observation 1: TPA3255 ampifiers have varying heatsink solutions. And they do heat up!
Anecdotal observation 2: Companies have clear incentives to reduce component costs and increase profits.
Anecdotal observation 3: Longevity of products is almost always not a company concern.

Question: So why didn't manufacturers give us ampifiers WITHOUT heatsinks? Reducing heatsink use can increase profits!
Most Likely Answer: Because the products will fail before warranty window ends. This is a problem if their resellers get too many product returns and start refusing to carry their products anymore, or too many bad reviews.
Manufacturer's Action: Give cheapest heatsink solution that honor the warranty.

Simple takeaways:
Less heat in most cases is almost always better.
If manufacturers can cut cost, they will (unless they're operating in luxury good category, then they are incentivised to give you robust solutions that you will pay excessively for).


Yes, you often see a kind of "heat hysteria" on this forum that is completely unfounded.
Amplifier generations from the last 40–50 years had a lifespan of at least 20–30 years with internal temperatures of 45–50°C (and sometimes even higher for AVRs).
Yet now, 35°C is suddenly considered a huge problem.
It is pure scaremongering with no basis in reality.

The heat issue with the PA5 is also complete nonsense—nothing more than a myth. The potting compound used and sloppy workmanship led to entirely different problems.
All repaired PA5 units (with the potting compound removed) run perfectly, and the cooling design remained unchanged for the PA5 II and Mini 300.
Yes, and how many of those hundreds of thousands of amplifiers produced 20-30 years ago have you seen survive till now? Could more of them have survived if they have had more robust heatsink solutions with internal temperatures of 30-35°C instead of 45–50°C (which implies higher component temps)?

Note also in ASR, we do have SINAD hysteria and ultra-low distortion expectations. Similarly, products 20-30 years ago didn't have such SINAD.
Physics HAS shown heat to be the enemy. Why is adequate cooling for product longevity and expecting products to run as cool as possible be unrealistic or fearmongering?
 
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Anecdotal observation 1: TPA3255 ampifiers have varying heatsink solutions. And they do heat up!
Anecdotal observation 2: Companies have clear incentives to reduce component costs and increase profits.
Anecdotal observation 3: Longevity of products is almost always not a company concern.

Question: So why didn't manufacturers give us ampifiers WITHOUT heatsinks? Reducing heatsink use can increase profits!
Most Likely Answer: Because the products will fail before warranty window ends. This is a problem if their resellers get too many product returns and start refusing to carry their products anymore, or too many bad reviews.
Manufacturer's Action: Give cheapest heatsink solution that honor the warranty.

Simple takeaways:
Less heat in most cases is almost always better.
If manufacturers can cut cost, they will (unless they're operating in luxury good category, then they are incentivised to give you robust solutions that you will pay excessively for).
The 3E Audio A5/A7 cases completely refute your argument.
It would have been much cheaper and easier for 3E Audio to use a simpler, less expensive case, cheaply cut ventilation slots, a cheap heatsink, and forced-air cooling. That would have significantly reduced manufacturing costs, and the direct (albeit uncontrolled) cooling performance would have been many times higher.
Either they are stupid, or they know a lot more than you think.

Yes, and how many of those hundreds of thousands of amplifiers produced 20-30 years ago have you seen survive till now? Could more of them have survived if they have had more robust heatsink solutions with internal temperatures of 30-35°C instead of 45–50°C (which implies higher component temps)?

Note also in ASR, we do have SINAD hysteria and ultra-low distortion expectations. Similarly, products 20-30 years ago didn't have such SINAD.
Physics HAS shown heat to be the enemy. Why is adequate cooling for product longevity and expecting products to run as cool as possible be unrealistic or fearmongering?
It is precisely posts like this that show most users have absolutely no idea about this subject.
First of all, most older amplifiers are Class AB (or similar) designs, where the stability of the operating point at higher temperatures is a major factor—influencing issues like the tendency to oscillate.
I have refurbished many of these old amplifiers, and in most cases, the problem is the age of the capacitors, not the heat.
In reality, more capacitors in these units fail due to age—for example, through electrolyte drying out or loss, or the breakdown of the oxide layer caused by infrequent use. Turning a unit on for 3–4 hours every 1–4 weeks is just as damaging as running it for 8 hours a day (or 24/7). Rising resistance and decreasing capacitance over time are other factors leading to age-related failure. The resulting increase in heat generation during operation (which is unrelated to the capacitor's ambient temperature) leads to gas formation, bulging, and electrolyte leakage. In rare cases, the capacitor bursts.
Therefore, lowering the temperature would not extend their lifespan.

Modern Class D amplifiers—at least well-designed ones like the Mini 300 and 3E Audio models—run significantly cooler than older Class AB amps (10–15°C cooler on average), which effectively doubles their lifespan.
However, since the capacitors are already failing due to aging, this makes no difference in practice.

It is only at significantly higher temperatures—such as 60°C or 70°C in Class A amplifiers—that the balance between lifespan and heat-induced aging shifts, necessitating a refurbishment after just 7–14 years.
You can work backward from that scenario as well. Since every 10°C change—up or down—halves or doubles the lifespan, empirical data suggests the following: 70°C = 7 years, 60°C = 14 years, and 50°C = 28 years. There is no need to calculate further at this point, as the age-related lifespan of electrolytic capacitors is roughly 25–30 years.
By now, it should be obvious to everyone that modern Class D amplifiers cannot have a temperature-related problem, given that all reasonably well-designed units operate well within safe limits.

My experience with many older, refurbished amplifiers aligns with my professional background regarding capacitors and other electronic components in the industrial sector.
Since our high-energy products are used in long-term, aging, and stress testing for electronic components—including capacitors, assemblies, and devices—we possess a vast wealth of experience in this area.
 
Physics HAS shown heat to be the enemy. Why is adequate cooling for product longevity and expecting products to run as cool as possible be unrealistic or fearmongering?
I've had two early Aiyima A07s -- notorious for their skimpy heatsinks, unvented construction, and overall poor thermal management -- running on their maximum 48VDC voltage pretty much 24/7 for nearly five years. :oops:

IMO what we have here is a whole lot of -- technically accurate because, after all, "Physics HAS shown heat to be the enemy" -- verbiage that, in the vast majority of real world use cases, comprise proposed solutions to a non-existent problem. ;)
 
The 3E Audio A5/A7 cases completely refute your argument.
It would have been much cheaper and easier for 3E Audio to use a simpler, less expensive case, cheaply cut ventilation slots, a cheap heatsink, and forced-air cooling. That would have significantly reduced manufacturing costs, and the direct (albeit uncontrolled) cooling performance would have been many times higher.
Either they are stupid, or they know a lot more than you think.
I'm not sure what your point is... I just checked Aliexpress. 3E Audio A5/A7 go for around US$250-ish and up depending on the psu. Topping Mini300 is US$140-ish with psu. So 3E Audio IS asking for more upfront. I haven't read about their construction, so I dunno if they're cheaping out. A quick glance at the A5/A7 shows me they're using more or less the same chassis with cut outs. They seem to be using better components. Are their performance and temps in line with Topping's?



It is precisely posts like this that show most users have absolutely no idea about this subject.
While the forum does say 'Audio Science Review', it doesn't say only engineers / researchers / technicians can come in. Most of the audio products reviewed here are for the mass consumer market, in case you haven't realised.... so yes, I would expect most users like myself have either absolutely no idea, or have partial / adjacent knowledge about this subject. We all live and learn.



First of all, most older amplifiers are Class AB (or similar) designs, where the stability of the operating point at higher temperatures is a major factor—influencing issues like the tendency to oscillate.
I have refurbished many of these old amplifiers, and in most cases, the problem is the age of the capacitors, not the heat.
In reality, more capacitors in these units fail due to age—for example, through electrolyte drying out or loss, or the breakdown of the oxide layer caused by infrequent use. Turning a unit on for 3–4 hours every 1–4 weeks is just as damaging as running it for 8 hours a day (or 24/7). Rising resistance and decreasing capacitance over time are other factors leading to age-related failure. The resulting increase in heat generation during operation (which is unrelated to the capacitor's ambient temperature) leads to gas formation, bulging, and electrolyte leakage. In rare cases, the capacitor bursts.
Therefore, lowering the temperature would not extend their lifespan.

Modern Class D amplifiers—at least well-designed ones like the Mini 300 and 3E Audio models—run significantly cooler than older Class AB amps (10–15°C cooler on average), which effectively doubles their lifespan.
However, since the capacitors are already failing due to aging, this makes no difference in practice.

It is only at significantly higher temperatures—such as 60°C or 70°C in Class A amplifiers—that the balance between lifespan and heat-induced aging shifts, necessitating a refurbishment after just 7–14 years.
You can work backward from that scenario as well. Since every 10°C change—up or down—halves or doubles the lifespan, empirical data suggests the following: 70°C = 7 years, 60°C = 14 years, and 50°C = 28 years. There is no need to calculate further at this point, as the age-related lifespan of electrolytic capacitors is roughly 25–30 years.
By now, it should be obvious to everyone that modern Class D amplifiers cannot have a temperature-related problem, given that all reasonably well-designed units operate well within safe limits.

My experience with many older, refurbished amplifiers aligns with my professional background regarding capacitors and other electronic components in the industrial sector.
Since our high-energy products are used in long-term, aging, and stress testing for electronic components—including capacitors, assemblies, and devices—we possess a vast wealth of experience in this area.

I do sincerely appreciate your write-up here, it forced me to read up some stuff to understand what you're saying. And what you're saying is, ambient temps don't matter in the grand scheme of things compared to the heat from the operation of the components themselves?

I gave it some thought, and I think it comes down to these points:

1. You see the temps and say, sure, they're as expected. But the crucial point is, you're talking from the pov of an expert who can troubleshoot and repair the amps yourself if they break.


2. Yes, you cited 28 years which looks like a pretty number. So I did what any non-expert will do. I asked Google/AI:
"Calculate lifetime of 85c rated electrolytic capacitor at 30°C vs 40°C ambient temperature"
They gave some answers and some links (I linked one of them below):


3. I do have the mini 300. I have it on for at least 12-14 hours daily, hooked to my pc which I use for mostly work (ahem!) and some play, AT LEAST 5 days a week. Room temps generally 27°C but does go up a little. So conservative estimates say my amp is on 12 hrs x 260 days (5-day wk) = 3120 hrs / year. And I do consume media for say, 30-40% of those hours.


4. Of course, there're also other experts like this gentleman, who sounds sensible:
I respect your opinion and thank you for your feedback. What you have just said backs up what I said - although the silicon itself is reliable, it is everything else in the ecosystem that will kill your circuit as a result of high temperature. The point I am making is that temperature will not kill the silicon. However, increased temperature causes other problems (increased mechanical stress etc) and it is these factors that kill the circuit not the silicon.

I agree that most circuit die through EOS (electrical over stress), but this is a different failure mechanism completely. This post is related to temperature and its effect on the lifetime of a circuit, not electrical overstress


5. My other frame of reference for tiny amps, is the SMSL SA300, which I now realised uses a 24V 6A brick. So when I got the mini 300 I was definitely surprised the chassis's way hotter than my previous amps. Amp's not playing audio but it's warm and consuming about 7W on standby (with my wall plug meter). Of course my next thought is 'Wow, Class D is supposed to be efficient, so why the heat? Is it going to kill the amp sooner?' I checked online. Indeed there're other concerned owners.


6. So gathering all the above data points as a non-expert, my key takeaways did not change too much and is probably aligned with the gentleman at point 4 (and probably with those bros who added vent holes to their amps as well):

Sure, the capacitors may usually be the ones to die first, but by many accounts, ambient heat does increase the likelihood of failure. While I do believe the data as presented by Mr. Roland68, unlike you I do not possess the know-how to troubleshoot and repair any of the components in the amp when it does fail. So if I can do some preventative measures to lower the chance of early failure without too much extra effort, why shouldn't I? Therein lies the difference between you and me, I think.

Looking at my mini 300 with a chassis temp of ~40-45°C, and ~48°C when I pointed my cheap Chinese infrared thermometer into the slots, maybe I'll open it up tomorrow.
 
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I've had two early Aiyima A07s -- notorious for their skimpy heatsinks, unvented construction, and overall poor thermal management -- running on their maximum 48VDC voltage pretty much 24/7 for nearly five years. :oops:

IMO what we have here is a whole lot of -- technically accurate because, after all, "Physics HAS shown heat to be the enemy" -- verbiage that, in the vast majority of real world use cases, comprise proposed solutions to a non-existent problem. ;)

Thanks for the data point. And I remember reading a few dramas about the A07s as well. Seems like you're one of the lucky ones, unlike our good friend here:
 
Thanks for the data point. And I remember reading a few dramas about the A07s as well. Seems like you're one of the lucky ones, unlike our good friend here:
That QC failure has nothing to do with its notoriously inadequate thermal management, of course. :cool:
 
Anyone tested reactive load output below 4 ohms on this little amp? I just paired it with LS50 meta (from Dynaudio Focus 160), and I must say I am little bit dissapointed. Wonder if i can audibly benefit from 2ohm rated amp such as 3e A7, because speakers impedance + phase component peaking like minimum 1.7ohm and nominal impedance is below 4 for significant part of spectrum.
 
I'll add my 2 cents about temp...
There are 6 op amps in mini 300 with power supply near 34-35V, we can suppose there 3 pcs NE5532 and 2pcs OPA1612 (by alalogy with PA5 II). NE5532 has typical quiescent current 6-8mA and max 16mA. OPA1612 has typical quiescent current 7.2mA and max 9mA. So by typical specs we have 0.006A*34V=0.204W per NE5532 and 0.0072A*34V=0.245W per OPA1612, together 1.1W typical and 2.24W max heat dissipation in idle according to datasheet. Op amps are warm to the touch in idle and hot under load, there are also three mounting holes around them for heatsink (perhaps it could appear in new revision of mini 300), I'll probably install some small heatsinks with adhesive on them.
 
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I'll add my 2 cents about temp...
There are 6 op amps in mini 300 with power supply near 34-35V, we can suppose there 3 pcs NE5532 and 2pcs OPA1612 (by alalogy with PA5 II). NE5532 has typical quiescent current 6-8mA and max 16mA. OPA1612 has typical quiescent current 7.2mA and max 9mA. So by typical specs we have 0.006A*34V=0.204W per NE5532 and 0.0072A*34V=0.245W per OPA1612, together 1.1W typical and 2.24W max heat dissipation in idle according to datasheet. Op amps are warm to the touch in idle and hot under load, there are also three mounting holes around them for heatsink (perhaps it could appear in new revision of mini 300), I'll probably install some small heatsinks with adhesive on them.
You’ve looked at the datasheet, yet you still think these op-amps get too hot and need cooling? :facepalm:
These components run for 30 years in oscilloscopes, measurement amplifiers, and the like at around 60–70°C; they are then recycled and sold as new or lightly used, in perfect working order.
And in this application, where the parts run at just a few degrees above body temperature, they supposedly need extra cooling?
 
That is precisely the point most people fail to grasp. With an amplifier, you don't want maximum convection—that would be very easy to achieve.
The goal is a constant temperature without rapid fluctuations, the kind that can easily occur with direct convection. Topping has consistently demonstrated that they understand this; that is why none of their amplifiers feature heatsinks exposed to direct airflow. Users unfamiliar with these principles often accuse Topping of incorrect heatsink orientation (e.g., horizontal instead of vertical), but such claims stem simply from ignorance and a lack of understanding.
I asked chatgpt to explain your statement, not to continue the 'fight' with you, but my basic science education doesn't quite grasp what you're saying. This is the reply I received (shared as a link to avoid wall of text):


My next question was:
has there been any accepted or proven 'truths' that class d audio components like the tpa3255 circuitry last longer with thermal stability at say, 50 degrees celsius?
And chatgpt's reply:


Finally, I felt the analogy chatgpt gave was not quite right:
your answer doesn't make any sense. compared to cooking, heat in modern amplifiers is a by-product isn't it? what evidence is there that a 50 degree enclosure is better, disregarding the physical properties of solder joints?
And chatgpt's reply:


Designing products to a budget constraint makes total sense to me, because as I said earlier, economics!
And yes, I get that chatgpt is a 'mere' aggregator of stolen online information, but still, it did not agree that a 45-50 degree 'constant-temp' enclosure is good for audio electronics in today's products. And since Amir's graph has already shown that there's no performance difference at start up vs running the amp for a while, then there's no need to keep audio components 'warm' for 'best performance'.
 
You’ve looked at the datasheet, yet you still think these op-amps get too hot and need cooling?
I posted it about idle heat dissipation. We have up to 2.24W heat dissipation only at op amps in idle without any other components including TPA amplifier IC in context of whole power consumption. Quote from a few posts earlier. If you laughing about cooling, it is not hard to me to put here a couple of mini heatsinks at opamps, it won't make things worse for them.
Amp's not playing audio but it's warm and consuming about 7W on standby (with my wall plug meter)
 
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*Important note 1: Infrared thermometer is Aliexpress quality, accurate to a few degrees.
*Important note 2: I've posted photo with temps at idle below. When under load, I see maybe 2-3°C fluctuations (both up and down), not far from idle temps so did not bother to retake everything.
*Important note 3: Not at 100% volume. The pot is removed, so can only guess it's around 50%.
*Important note 4: I obviously cannot take the temps inside the chassis, so feel free to guesstimate the internal temps. I previously measured the top chassis temp at 44°C (at 27°C room temp) before turning it off and dismantling.


1. So 30°C room temp, mini 300 in the open, turned on for hours so temp stable, idle (no audio playing for more than an hour) center of heatsink is 50°C.
S mini300_1.jpg



2. Various areas of the amp at idle. When under load, I see maybe 2-3°C fluctuations (both up and down), not far from idle temps so did not bother to retake everything:
S mini300_2.jpg



3. Then I point a handheld fan at the board for a minute
S mini300_4.jpg



4. I turned off the fan and measured just the center of the heatsink and the opamps
S mini300_3.jpg



Please make your own decisions. Personally I like the product very much and hope to find simple ways to make it last. Hope the data helps others.
 
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