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Topping Mini 300 Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 2 0.7%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 10 3.6%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 46 16.6%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 219 79.1%

  • Total voters
    277
I also don't get the "amps" that are unable to drive bass drivers, deliver tenth of power to the bass or start distorting over 6KHz. Cheap in the end results being expensive.

Why are we letting d-class amps pass when any AB amp would be chasticised if it had that same behavior?
This is clearly an amp (no quotation marks needed) that can drive bass drivers (I'm doing it right now), and whatever distortion you're talking about above 6kHz is definitely not audible. It gets a pass because it's a great amplifier, especially for the price. An AB won't get the same pass since the topology itself should perform better at higher frequencies even if the audible difference won't be there, but if the size, price snf objective performance would be the same it would still probably get an over all pass.

Buut I guess haters gonna hate.
 
It’s Topping and Class D - you get quite a lynch mob. Instantly.
Not really, if Topping makes a bad class D most people will definitely complain. But you will get a lynch mob if you're as provokingly wrong as that guy ;)
 
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It’s Topping and Class D - you get quite a lynch mob. Instantly.
I'll admit that I had some preconceptions about the level of quality and performance of these recent Chinese entrants to the audio landscape. That is, until I bought some of the product. The Fosi 3V mono amps are impressive little beasties.
 
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I also don't get the "amps" that are unable to drive bass drivers, deliver tenth of power to the bass or start distorting over 6KHz. Cheap in the end results being expensive.

Why are we letting d-class amps pass when any AB amp would be chasticised if it had that same behavior?
..and then you connect it to real speakers and it sounds like a** , nowhere near to how real 100w 8ohm amps sound like.

Did you obtain one to try in your own system? You seem to speak with authority, so I'm interested in your experience.
 
What's the length of the power cord + power adapter? Not sure if this will reach my outlet. 5 ft would be comfortable
 
Well if you are trying to get 100W at 8ohm from a 50W at 8ohm amp, that would not be a huge surprise. It will be clipping like hell.
This. The review seems quite clear the max at 8ohms is about 50W. IOW this is not necessarily the amp for big rooms, playing really loud, and/or inefficient speakers. Different people have different needs!

A discussion of what kinds of speakers are most successful with this sort of amp might be useful.
 
What's the length of the power cord + power adapter? Not sure if this will reach my outlet. 5 ft would be comfortable
48V 5A Gan PS
 

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Good to see the review -- I ordered mine at the end of November, and it hasn't arrived yet (was supposed to be early December, but there was a delay due to stock apparently). I hope to be getting my unit very soon, and it looks like this performs even better than the PA5 II, which is great to see.

Also, is there a power up stability graph for this amp? Like this:

index.php
 
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... Tho I agree that Toppings power ratings are "questionable". As are many manufacturers.
At what point exactly are Topping's power specifications questionable?
Power measured by Amir at 4 ohms with 1% THD+N: 119.8 watts.
At 8 ohms with 1% THD+N: approximately 67 watts.
At 8 ohms with 10% THD+N: approximately 83 watts.

Most large, supposedly reputable, and audiophile manufacturers could learn a thing or two from such a small discrepancy between their specifications and reality.

It should also be noted that the specifications refer to 220-volt mains voltage, while the tests were conducted at 120 volts, at which the power supply has a lower efficiency and also lower power output.

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At what point exactly are Topping's power specifications questionable?
Power measured by Amir at 4 ohms with 1% THD+N: 119.8 watts.
At 8 ohms with 1% THD+N: approximately 67 watts.
At 8 ohms with 10% THD+N: approximately 83 watts.

Most large, supposedly reputable, and audiophile manufacturers could learn a thing or two from such a small discrepancy between their specifications and reality.

It should also be noted that the specifications refer to 220-volt mains voltage, while the tests were conducted at 120 volts, at which the power supply has a lower efficiency and also lower power output.

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You're right. Definitely not much difference really.
Perhaps it was their power claims for earlier models that were less realistic. I seem to remember there was a fairly big discrepancy between what was claimed, and what was measured with some.
Perhaps I am wrong however. My bad.
 
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This. The review seems quite clear the max at 8ohms is about 50W. IOW this is not necessarily the amp for big rooms, playing really loud, and/or inefficient speakers. Different people have different needs!

A discussion of what kinds of speakers are most successful with this sort of amp might be useful.
The Mini 300 works very well with my Tannoy V12s.

Sensitivity : 97db
Nominal : 8 Ohm
Minimum : 6.1 Ohm

They are sensitive and an easy load, so I get plenty of volume from ~50W.

Somewhat amusingly, Tannoys recommended amplifier power : 200 - 400 Watts.
(They are designed for small PA applications.)

Somehow I doubt very much if my neighbours would appreciate that!
 
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The Mini 300 works very well with my Tannoy V12s.

Sensitivity : 97db
Nominal : 8 Ohm
Minimum : 6.1 Ohm

They are sensitive and an easy load, so I get plenty of volume from ~50W.

Somewhat amusingly, Tannoys recommended amplifier power : 200 - 400 Watts.

Somehow I doubt very much if my neighbours would appreciate that!
Bi-wiring the 6-ohm speakers become 3-ohm to the amp. Electricity power will be sucked with bigger mouth and quicker by the speakers.
 
???
Normal bi-wiring without messing with x-overs and stuff?
Nope.
the class D amp is smart enough. Of course your speakers must have bi-wire capability, such as Fyne Audio F501E, Wharfedale Diamond 12.3, etc.
 
Hi, a bit off the subject, but I bought this Topping amp after reading on this forum : https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...topping’s-new-amplifier-mini300.67036/page-11

I've been using a Mission LX-2 mk1 for 6+ years with a small SMSL-SA-50.
While this is quite cheap (it did the job haha), it worked well enough for nearfield (desk usage) for gaming/musics.

Thus, I wanted to go bigger, bought :
- SVS SB 1000 (I listen to all sorts but rock, EDM sounds more fun with one)
- Topping Mini 300
- SMSL SU 1 DAC

And now I'd love to upgrade my speakers, from what people say KEF LS 50 meta is a great uppgrade (very detailed) for nearfield.
Is it fair to think Topping mini 300 could work with that speaker ? Should I consider different speakers ?

Sorry if it's off subject again, just a bit confused why people say some Class D can work very well and then keep recommending 2k € amplifier for any speaker uppgrade (the speaker themselve are already quite an investment). Thanks if anyone has some advices/experiences to share.

Zuvila
 
This is partially trauma from PA5 but would it be possible to add heatsinks to more components inside the case? I think the original failure point were op mans in the Topping casing. They removed it on PA5 II, and I see it looks kind of the same deal here. Is it possible to just add a small heatsink? Adding to that the ventilation holes still look small to me. AFAIK PA5 II has been mostly fine so I'm not strongly stating anything. It'd just add more peace of mind. I'd rather the cooling be little over-engineered and pay $50 more. Or the case be slightly larger to accomodate stuff.

At such a low price you could destroy 4 of these to match the price of a Hypex amp so the price reductions since the original PA5 are also doing some lifting here.

IDK, maybe nobody ever adds heatsinks to those op amps and they're expected to work for a long time and the issue was only the potting. If that's the case LMK.

Also correct me if I'm wrong. PA5 had op amp + PFFB circuitry under potting. PA5 II had the op amps moved out as that generated most the heat and was what failed. This one I don't seem to detect any potting whatsoever.
 
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