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Topping L30 II Review (Headphone Amp)

Rate this headphone amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 11 2.8%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 11 2.8%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther

    Votes: 31 7.8%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 345 86.7%

  • Total voters
    398
Amir does not consistently maintain a headphone Amp ranking the same way he does for DACs for example.

The L30II's 50mV result Amir got I suspect was erroneous and removed from the ranking as a result (merely speculation).

I think it's because the L30 II has a rare -14dB first (L) gain stage, where most others start at 0 or very close. In the normal gain stages (where most people are likely to use the L30 II, M and H) it didn't perform any better (L30 II was 94 or 95dB in medium gain). Having it sit at a full 5dB better than all the amps when it was only in a half-useful gain stage was misleading to anyone who didn't thoroughly investigate. I think having it there gave it undue status and somewhat called into question the legitimacy of the chart because the cheapest Topping amp even beat every other Topping amp (up to the best one at like 6-7x more).

Since most other amps, if wired a certain way and given a -14dB gain stage, would give the same improvement, the chart wasn't reflecting objective performance increase.

Anecdote, I have the L30 II and a sensitive isolating IEM, and in the middle of the night I couldn't hear a difference in the background between L and M, except when L didn't give me enough gain and I had to switch to M
 

How is the L30 II's 37V peak to peak output given from just 30V? total supply (two 15V rails?)
How?

I forgot to add this: I suggest the regulators are giving +/- 21V-22V to the 6120A2 and either a few tiny diodes in series drop the voltage for the op-amps down to +/- 19V. I don't know if the 6120 looks more like a 2k or 10k ohm load to the 1612, but let's say it's 3.2k (I've seen something close to that on a lot of Toppings' boards). 3.2k means that you need about 0.5V more supply than output.

19-0.5 = 18.5

18.5 *2 = 37.... Voila!

The 1612 has an "absolute maximum rating" of 40V (+/- 20) and a maximum continuous of 36V (+/- 18)

The 6120A2 has an absolute maximum rating of 33V... With its mandatory drop of 5V, the 31V peak to peak rated max of the L30 II at just medium gain is also impossible...

Topping must know how to test the process's actual safe max voltage by measuring the amount of change of various performance characteristics (ones related to stability, obviously). Or they've got these parts wired up in some weird way and we're just not aware.



Just looked up another one of these chips from TI, but this one's labeled a DSL driver: (THS6182)

The THS6182's main page say when it's operating in differential, its output can reach up to 44V peak to peak from +/- 12V supply...

Which I find great and all, but how do you take two separate chips running in differential mode (essentially bridged...) and then combine them into a stereo, single-ended output with just three conductors ?!?!?!?

The only way this nightmare could be made to work is if both channels were the same signal and botch loads behaved exactly the same. From there I don't even know what would need to be done, but it doesn't matter because this is a stereo amplifier
 
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L30 II is 101dB unweighted @50mV in medium (0dB) gain

Well that explains why I didn't hear a difference... I could've sworn I read that Amir did the test in the lowest setting. If he did, maybe, if low and medium measure the same, and Amir thought that the 50mV low was advantage from the -14dB gain (after he'd returned the L30 II)... maybe the -100 deserves to be put back up? If this is why it was removed. I was pretty sure this was the case (about the test, -I'm speculating why it was removed).
So if it does measure the same in medium and Amir removed for the reason I presumed, maybe it deserves to back up. I might be mistaken -best thing would be for Amir to fill us in on his reasoning
 
When Suzy answers 8 after being asked "what's 5x3?" you don't tell her she's "incorrect and misleading". That'd be something more likely to be said by someone who thinks Suzy knows the answer and some of the other kids (who are trying to learn) don't, and she wants to screw them up! "Mislead" has the strongest connotation to deliberate deception of all its synonyms.

Onto business:
View attachment 426988

Click specs, page down 3x, and the chart you see will include this bit I snipped out of it.

View attachment 426991

On the top of Page 5, 7.5: Electrical Characteristics

Highlighted above is the maximum voltage output capability of the TPA6120A2 connected to (+15V / -15V). We can either add those together or halve Topping's 37 Since

37 / 2 = 18.5
15 + 15 = 30

Can a linear amplifier running on 30 volts cause its output to be 37 volts?
Not last time I checked.

Does any manufacturer claim on their amplifier datasheets that the output voltage swing of their amplifiers exceeds supply by 23 percent?
No, the standard amount amplifiers can swing past their rails is 12%..................


You say that 15 turns into +23V / -23V
That's misleading, sir: 15 multiplied by the root of 2 is 21, so


How much should we expect to droop to on those 35V bulk caps when the E30 II (or E30..) is doing easy work as usual, something like 30mW (98% of everyone everywhere's dissipation with dynamic drivers)

I think remember measuring power draw of the E30 II with my meter while idle, and it was like 3-4W
E30 II 15VAC 1A adaptor AC voltage at rest: 19.3V with 120.1V in

19.3-15 = 4.3V

15V * 1A = 15VA

3.5VA/15VA = 0.2333333

4.3V * 0.2333333 = 1.00V

4.3V - 1.0V = 3.3V

15+3.3 = 18.3V

18.3VAC = 25.9V peak

Bringing 25.9V down to 15V is a ha-uuuuge drop

10.9/25.9 = 42%

15/25.9 = 58%

###solution for above: When E30 II is running normally (ie. listening to a tv show through earbuds in a quiet room):
42% of its power dissipation is due to the regulators...

###solution for below: When E30 II is running normal efficiency headphones at 105-110dB level (headphones are 92dB/mW) it uses 1W more power than on and idle:
41% of its power dissipation is due to the regulators...

Instead of the voltage on the caps being 18.3V, the extra watt brings it down to 18.0V (18.01V to be exact...)
25.9V peak turned into 25.5V peak


Standard, nothing special regulators are usually designed keep the AC at least 2V about their output.

If we run on 15V DC, that means we need a minimum of +/- 17V to the regulators


27.2 open turns to 21.2 with 1 full A drawn

How many amps drawn required to drop further to 17?

21.2 - 17 = 4.2

4.2/6 * 1A = 0.7A

Total max draw design is 1.7A, but adaptor is 1.0A!
This is ... at least uncommon. It could be due to the transient nature of music that the transformer can be undersized like this, but looking at everything together, it makes more sense the adaptor is correctly sized and the internal voltage the 18.3VAC (25.8V peak) {(idle)} and 15.0VAC (21.2V peak) {(full load)}

Put another way, it doesn't make sense to leave an entire 6.2 volts above the regulated rail... we need 2, not 6.2.
The way it works out, the regulators, being fed from a 15VAC transformer, burn an extra watt when the 6120 amps draw somewhere between 60-150mA more than they do when idle (this would be during semi-loud music), than the would if a 12VAC transformer was used instead. Keep in mind, this is only if 15V is what the 6120A2s are getting....
If that 12VAC transformer powering the E30 II with its + / - 15V rails was also rated for 1A, there would be no change in amp performance



The 6120A2 must be higher inside...


I don't see how the 6120A2's Vcc regulation can be done to anything under + / - 21.15 volts!

Why? Because 37V peak to peak is 18.5V (one way). The 6120 datasheet shows that you need to give it 2.5 to 2.8V more than you from the output, so:

18.5 + [(2.5+2.8) / 2] (unnecessary squares - just to make it clear

18.5 + 2.65 = 21.2V

Wait a second.... 15 * sqrt2 = 21.2


What a coincidence...
If you have read my post carefully, you should have noticed that I only wrote about the measurable supply voltages, which are all very simple and can be measured by anyone. Just like the power of the transformer and the OPAmps used for the DC protection circuit.

This has absolutely nothing to do with "When Suzy answers 8 after being asked "what's 5x3?" you don't tell her she's "incorrect and misleading".".

The measured approx. +/- 23.6 volts on the two filter capacitors are exactly what you get mathematically with a (half-wave) rectification from an open circuit voltage of 16-17 volts. The voltages were even printed on the old circuit board.

In my logs I had noted that Topping had even lowered the supply voltage on the L30 II. To make sure that I'm not posting anything wrong, I just measured it on 2 L30 IIs from different batches.
The measured voltage between R/LVCC+ and R/LVCC- is 25 volts, which means that R/LVCC+ and R/LVCC- are only +/- 12.5 volts in relation to ground. You, and anyone else, can easily measure it yourself.
So please excuse me for specifying a voltage that was too high from memory.
Topping also uses its own voltage regulation on the L30 II, even channel-separated.

These are the facts that anyone can measure with a multimeter, and that's why I wrote that any fantasy voltages that don't actually exist in the L30 II are misleading for other participants and readers, just like saying that there are NE5532 or TL072 in the amplifier circuit.

At these 12.5 volts, a total of around 1 A of power is always available from the transformer, which mathematically still results in around 12 watts for the amplifier circuit in the L30 II. A significant amount of headroom that the L30 II cannot use at all.

The other topics, e.g. how topping achieves the specified Vpp output levels with this supply voltage of the TPA6120A, or whether they are achieved, or why they use a high DC voltage (+/- 23 volts) for the supply and then reduce it to +/- 12.5 volts, are of no interest to me personally, and I have not written anything about them. Topping has developed an interesting circuit with the TPA6120A and Amir's measurements and my own listening experience are enough for me.
 
I was cleaning up the area where my computer and UPS sits so I unplugged everything from the UPS and replugged everything back in. I plugged the L30 II power adapter in last and the moment I did, the battery turned on and I heard a popping sound and a burning smell which I identified as coming from the power adapter brick after checking all the other connections and equipment. I am not sure if the Amp is fried or just the power adapter and at this point I am a bit scared to find a replacement power cord for it.

It was working fine since I bought it in May 2023 until this moment after I finished cleaning up the space. I have contacted support who just stated buy a new power adapter to see if it works still, but what is the safest way to see? Should I plug it into an outlet or surge protector one? Has this happened to anyone else where the amplifier power adapter just basically exploded?
 
I was cleaning up the area where my computer and UPS sits so I unplugged everything from the UPS and replugged everything back in. I plugged the L30 II power adapter in last and the moment I did, the battery turned on and I heard a popping sound and a burning smell which I identified as coming from the power adapter brick after checking all the other connections and equipment. I am not sure if the Amp is fried or just the power adapter and at this point I am a bit scared to find a replacement power cord for it.

It was working fine since I bought it in May 2023 until this moment after I finished cleaning up the space. I have contacted support who just stated buy a new power adapter to see if it works still, but what is the safest way to see? Should I plug it into an outlet or surge protector one? Has this happened to anyone else where the amplifier power adapter just basically exploded?
It is not a power supply, just a transformer without any other electronics.
The first thing I would do is plug it into a socket without the L30 II and measure the voltage with a multimeter.

If you get a replacement transformer, make sure it is 15 volts AC, with 1 amp.

Did you have exactly the same number of devices connected to it before?
Do you know why it switched to battery?

As a former IT worker, I would like to point out that only those devices that really need to be protected from a power failure should be connected to a UPS, e.g. PC and monitor, especially with a cheap offline UPS.
It is a different story with a real online UPS that is oversized accordingly.
 
It is not a power supply, just a transformer without any other electronics.
The first thing I would do is plug it into a socket without the L30 II and measure the voltage with a multimeter.

If you get a replacement transformer, make sure it is 15 volts AC, with 1 amp.

Did you have exactly the same number of devices connected to it before?
Do you know why it switched to battery?

As a former IT worker, I would like to point out that only those devices that really need to be protected from a power failure should be connected to a UPS, e.g. PC and monitor, especially with a cheap offline UPS.
It is a different story with a real online UPS that is oversized accordingly.
I have the APC Pro 1500s and it had my Computer, Monitor, and a phone charger in the Battery/Surge Slots. For the Surge slots I had 2 Speakers, subwoofer, and an external HDD plugged in.

So in total I had 7 things plugged in before the Topping L30 II which would make 8. However I always had the same 8 stuff plugged in since 2023 at least when I got the Amp, nothing has changed there.

I do not know why it switched to battery, but it switched to battery the moment I plugged it in and heard the pop and burning smell. I unplugged everything to inspect them as I was worried it was the UPS that malfunctioned, but I narrowed it down to the Topping Transformer. Right now I have everything except the Topping L30 II plugged backed in and everything is working fine right now.

I am worried about plugging the Transformer into a socket since it had a burning smell last time I smelled it. I don't have a multimeter on hand, might be able to find one.
 
I am worried about plugging the Transformer into a socket since it had a burning smell last time I smelled it. I don't have a multimeter on hand, might be able to find one.
You will need one in order to progress.
 
You will need one in order to progress.
Would it be safe to plug the transformer into a regular socket or another surge protector? If it had a burning smell before, isn't that already dangerous to use?
 
Would it be safe to plug the transformer into a regular socket or another surge protector?
It's a gamble either way.
isn't that already dangerous to use?
Very risky. If me I would order in a new Topping transformer and then test it that way. Contact Topping and ask to order a new transformer. I suppose you could look around for a aftermarket transformer but it might be easier to order from Topping.
 
It's a gamble either way.

Very risky. If me I would order in a new Topping transformer and then test it that way. Contact Topping and ask to order a new transformer. I suppose you could look around for a aftermarket transformer but it might be easier to order from Topping.
Topping Support just told me this

Thank you for contacting TOPPING support. We are happy to assist.
If that's the case, you can first try buying a new adapter with the same specifications and give it a try. The plug specification is 5.5 x 2.5mm.
 
If you get a replacement transformer, make sure it is 15 volts AC, with 1 amp.
The transformer information says
Model:TXWY151000
Input: AC100-120V 50/60HZ
Output: AC15V ~ 1000mA

1000mA = 1 Amp right?

It is physically very heavy.
 
The transformer information says
Model:TXWY151000
Input: AC100-120V 50/60HZ
Output: AC15V ~ 1000mA

1000mA = 1 Amp right?

It is physically very heavy.
It weighs so much because it is a transformer.
You have to be very careful not to buy a DC converter or a normal power supply, that won't work.
It absolutely has to output AC, i.e. alternating current.
 
Is there supposed to be a certain order or way to plugging in the Amp safely?

Ordered the same replacement transformer.
 
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