Topping L30 Headphone Amplifier Review

[mocenigo]

Okay thanks for the explainaiton

Maybe this:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B005EWBJPO/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_glt_i_RECHRYFDRD1MFS6QXVT2
It says 1500mA max but I think 15v 1000mA should be possible with it.
And It says AC to AC

The box says AC/DC. Hence, no.

Roberto

 

[mocenigo]

Okay thanks for the explainaiton

Maybe this:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B005EWBJPO/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_glt_i_RECHRYFDRD1MFS6QXVT2
It says 1500mA max but I think 15v 1000mA should be possible with it.
And It says AC to AC

What you need is a transformer, AC to AC. Assuming you are in Germany, look at this one, which I use
BLOCK 15V 16VA PRINTTRAFO - but you need a tiny bit of assembly. This one is better than the miserable undersized one Topping uses, which shorted on me.

Alternatively, this one AC - AC Power Supply 15V / 1A and with 5.5 mm Coaxial Power Connector & EU Plug - AC Power Supply Transformer however I did not check whether the connector is the same (external 5.5 mm seems to be fine, not sure about the internal diameter, but since this is AC and not DC, replacing the connector is not trivial, it is VERY trivial). However, I am quite sure it does not have the same quality of the BLOCK transformer, and some customers complain about the higher amperage models (which are those you need).

If you want to have "room to spare" and make sure that the transformer will never be overloaded, put THIS ONE in a box with two cable glands for the entry and exit cables (or THIS OTHER ONE with the two secondaries in parallel).

 

[Arius]

Awesome. Very helpful, thx

 

[velasfloyd]

The new Topping A30Pro/D30Pro is a nice sized stack, riveling the performance of the D90 / A90, for nice savings

I didnt like a30pro. Those holes make me feel like dust will enter into it, so my soul will be not in peace

 

[hmscott]

I didnt like a30pro. Those holes make me feel like dust will enter into it, so my soul will be not in peace

IDK how you feel about "Tubes", but lately I am only using my Xduoo TA-20 Hybrid tube/class A SS, with Telefunken ECC82/12AU7 (Soviet) tubes right now, after getting it I enjoy the Tube / Class "A" Solid State Hybrid more than the Topping A90

If you need both a DAC and an AMP Xduoo has a few models, even the MT-602 AMP $99 is supposed to sound good.

But, if I didn't have a DAC or AMP I'd get the TA-30... not cheap, might be a leap for a first product, but it has good reviews.

There are lots of less neutral/cold Hybrid amps out there too...nothing against my A90 - it still sounds great - I found I enjoyed listening to my FiiO M15 and Xduoo TA-20 more.

Please let us know what you do end up getting

What if I ever need a new power supply for my L30 - would this be the right one?
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B010NRE2FS/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_i_RPC5CC2S2QA4FKX4M9GH

I think that is a good idea, to get a backup power supply for a unique product like this, so perhaps ask nicely and you can order one from Topping?

Typically a vendor isn't set up initially for spares of power supplies/batteries - which is the other item I order backup's of, unique formed to the product like swappable batteries, or unique power supplies. When I went over 230w external power for "gaming" laptops those power supplies are well over the capacity of generic power supplies.

Also, you don't want a "cheap knock-off" as they may be cheaper but aren't as reliable, as many "gaming" notebook users found as their clone power supplies went "poof".

With LV DC external power supplies there are lots of options in the LV / LP range, so you can always find a "better" power supply.

Also, now that I think about it, if Topping won't sell one to you right now, ask them who their supplier is - then you can search for other products that use it and find a spare through them. I've done that before, though that was sourced in USA products - back before time began.

 

[velasfloyd]

IDK how you feel about "Tubes", but I am only using my Xduoo TA-20 Hybrid tube/class A SS, with Telefunken ECC82/12AU7 (Soviet) tubes right now, after getting it, and I have an A90...

If you need both a DAC and an AMP Xduoo has a few models, even the MT-602 AMP $99 is supposed to sound good.

But, if I didn't have a DAC or AMP I'd get the TA-30... not cheap, might be a leap for a first product, but it has good reviews.

There are lots of less neutral/cold Hybrid amps out there too...nothing against my A90 - it still sounds great - I found I enjoyed listening to my FiiO M15 and Xduoo TA-20 more.

Please let us know what you do end up getting

Hey! I appreciate your willingness to help! thanks!

But anyway, I am not into all that idea of the subjective sound of things.... tubes are a no-no to me... sure they look beautiful... but there is the whole myth around them and how they sound and we can read pages and pages about that

- no tube myth magic for me.... they have measured very poor here
- I dont think price is related to sound quality. a topping 200$ device can be better than a 1000 or 100000 device... as measures have shown here
- there is no "entry level", "first product" etc.... a product is bad or good... measures can shown its performance and then we can decide if we like it, because its options, guaranty, build quality, etc.
- neutral/cold/warm and all that wording.. not for me

I am actually using a xduoo xd-05... but just because convenience (I listen headphones on bed) and because I love its volume knob... for sure it will measure poorly, as almost every XDUOO.... so thats the reason I was checking for L30 or A50S...as they are cheap and small enough to use them in bed.
I would put my money in headphones... but then again also headphone price is not directly related with performance....

again thanks for your help and good vibe

 

[fredristair]

LCD-X = 108dB/V (92dB/mW) and you can reach 5.6V (using the E30) = 123dB peak SPL. With some EQ to compensate and using -5dB pre-amp gain you can still reach 118B SPL in the non-EQ'd frequencies and 121dB SPL in the EQ'ed parts.

No need to have more power on tap.

LCD-X is Rated 103 dB @ 1 mW at drum reference point. Does that change your conclusions or calculations any? That is different than what you listed in your post.

Regards

 

[solderdude]

The efficiency number I used was measured by RAA.
Tyll measured LCD-X at 113dB/V but measured 2 of them being 15ohm and one 21ohm
The RAA measured one is also 21 ohm but this one measured 108dB/V
Unfortunately Amir measured the LCD-X but not efficiency.

in dB/mW Tyll measured LCD-X between 94dB/mW and 96dB/mW depending on impedance.
RAA measured it at 92dB/mW.
All of these measurements are quite far removed from the listed 103dB/mW (about 10dB off).
Besides the eardrum reference is not what others use nor do they specify at which frequency (maybe even noise ?) they measure.

In general I do not trust manufacturer specs.

But let's take the well characterized HD650 as a starting point to see what Amir, RAA, Tyll and the manufacturers measured/spec'd that one to check who is more 'correct'.

Sennheiser: 103dB/V
Amir: 106dB/V
RAA: 105dB/V
Tyll: 107dB/V

Sennheiser specs it 3dB lower than the average measured (106dB/V) and since 3 independent measurement folks measured it and were only 1dB off from each other I would conclude that RAA specs it 2dB lower than Tyll.

Shure SRH440: 118dB/V
Me: 119dB/V
Tyll: 116dB/V
RAA: 117dB/V

The LCD-X was 113dB/V and RAA 108dB/V so here RAA spec'd it 5dB below Tyll.
Audeze specs the LCD-X as 119dB/V which is 6dB higher than Tyll.

So either there is a substantial spread in actual efficiency (unlikely) or the measurement methods differ too much.

In any case the RAA measurement (that I used) is worst case. The reported SPL on the L30 can only be higher than what I calculated based on RAA numbers. RAA does seem to report somewhat lower efficiency numbers than other sites though.

 

[fredristair]

The efficiency number I used was measured by RAA.
Tyll measured LCD-X at 113dB/V but measured 2 of them being 15ohm and one 21ohm
The RAA measured one is also 21 ohm but this one measured 108dB/V
Unfortunately Amir measured the LCD-X but not efficiency.

in dB/mW Tyll measured LCD-X between 94dB/mW and 96dB/mW depending on impedance.
RAA measured it at 92dB/mW.
All of these measurements are quite far removed from the listed 103dB/mW (about 10dB off).
Besides the eardrum reference is not what others use nor do they specify at which frequency (maybe even noise ?) they measure.

In general I do not trust manufacturer specs.

But let's take the well characterized HD650 as a starting point to see what Amir, RAA, Tyll and the manufacturers measured/spec'd that one to check who is more 'correct'.

Sennheiser: 103dB/V
Amir: 106dB/V
RAA: 105dB/V
Tyll: 107dB/V

Sennheiser specs it 3dB lower than the average measured (106dB/V) and since 3 independent measurement folks measured it and were only 1dB off from each other I would conclude that RAA specs it 2dB lower than Tyll.

Shure SRH440: 118dB/V
Me: 119dB/V
Tyll: 116dB/V
RAA: 117dB/V

The LCD-X was 113dB/V and RAA 108dB/V so here RAA spec'd it 5dB below Tyll.
Audeze specs the LCD-X as 119dB/V which is 6dB higher than Tyll.

So either there is a substantial spread in actual efficiency (unlikely) or the measurement methods differ too much.

In any case the RAA measurement (that I used) is worst case. The reported SPL on the L30 can only be higher than what I calculated based on RAA numbers. RAA does seem to report somewhat lower efficiency numbers than other sites though.

You know your stuff man. That's awesome. Great having you out there helping people out with their gear questions.

 

[hmscott]

Hey! I appreciate your willingness to help! thanks!

But anyway, I am not into all that idea of the subjective sound of things.... tubes are a no-no to me... sure they look beautiful... but there is the whole myth around them and how they sound and we can read pages and pages about that

- no tube myth magic for me.... they have measured very poor here
- I dont think price is related to sound quality. a topping 200$ device can be better than a 1000 or 100000 device... as measures have shown here
- there is no "entry level", "first product" etc.... a product is bad or good... measures can shown its performance and then we can decide if we like it, because its options, guaranty, build quality, etc.
- neutral/cold/warm and all that wording.. not for me

I am actually using a xduoo xd-05... but just because of convenience (I listen headphones on bed) and because I love its volume knob... for sure it will measure poorly, as almost every XDUOO.... so thats the reason I was checking for L30 or A50S...as they are cheap and small enough to use them in bed.
I would put my money in headphones... but then again also headphone price is not directly related with performance....

again thanks for your help and good vibe

Do you put your equipment on the nightstand or do you actually run them next to you in bed - which I've also done

You might be better served with a good DAP instead? You are close with the Xduoo XD-05, but there are lots of self-contained DAP's out there, a bunch of new ones are being released this year - just like the desktop DAC's - due to the AKM fire - many companies don't have enough stock left of the AKM's to support current products, let alone new product releases.

I have the FiiO M15 and I am looking at the FiiO M17 arriving this year, hopefully.

And there are lots of DAPs in the same price range you are looking at too.

Good listening...

 

[alekksander]

are You guys able to remove volume knob from Your l30? once the subject of performance is closed i want to take care of aesthetics and it's hard to accept that red ring on black version. i'd either go for silver which looks more consistent and make it only shining jewel on my desk, or black plus custom black cnc knob. (real life dilemmas, right? ) …or is the red ring just some paint on aluminum and can be painted over/removed?

 

[Vini darko]

are You guys able to remove volume knob from Your l30? once the subject of performance is closed i want to take care of aesthetics and it's hard to accept that red ring on black version. i'd either go for silver which looks more consistent and make it only shining jewel on my desk, or black plus custom black cnc knob. (real life dilemmas, right? ) …or is the red ring just some paint on aluminum and can be painted over/removed?

I used a mobile phone disassembly tool. It's like a thick plectrum.

 

[alekksander]

I used a mobile phone disassembly tool. It's like a thick plectrum..

Thank You. Out of curiosity, You modified it, or it's needed to disassembly?

 

[Vini darko]

Thank You. Out of curiosity, You modified it, or it's needed to disassembly?

It was my old one wich topping replaced. I took it apart to take pictures for another member further back in this thread.

 

[Pan]

Hi, I got A30 pro and D30 pro stack. They are connected via XLR cables only(no RCA). My question is can I use A30 pro RCA bypass to my active speaker (KEF LS50W)? I have these connected, but there are no sound from my LS50W.

 

[Veri]

Hi, I got A30 pro and D30 pro stack. They are connected via XLR cables only(no RCA). My question is can I use A30 pro RCA bypass to my active speaker (KEF LS50W)? I have these connected, but there are no sound from my LS50W.

Don't think you can, the passthroughs are not active so can't derive single ended RCA output from balanced input.

Not sure why you ask in L30 thread, though.

 

[Pan]

Woopss, sorry! I Googled and didn't aware this is a L30 thread. Anyway, I read the manual, and you are right, XLR input won't bypass sound to RCA. So, I connect the RCA output to D30 Pro instead and use the remote control to switch either RCA output or XLR output. I'm not a remote guy, but if this can be switch via remote I guess this is my solution.

 

[artburda]

I managed to film the blinking issue with my L30 replacement, S/N 2012xxx. Happens a few times a week when it's been turned off for a while and then powered on again.

 

[solderdude]

I don't think it is something to worry about.
Looks like the LED is driven from a small processor.
Could also be the DC protection or something else during start up.
The output relay is muting during start up so no issue it seems.

 

[artburda]

I don't think it is something to worry about.
Looks like the LED is driven from a small processor.
Could also be the DC protection or something else during start up.
The output relay is muting during start up so no issue it seems.

Other than the blinking, it works perfectly fine. So, I don‘t worry too much. Nonetheless, I am very interested to find out what‘s causing it.