-
WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!
Topping L30 Headphone Amplifier Review
- Thread starter amirm
- Start date
Eeer... I use the same cables on a Atom and Khadas Tone Board (former setup) and the fitting is quite tight.
Hi all, I just got my L30 to pair with my E30... I just used it for like an hour, and I seriously need help. I am not sure if anyone experiencing what I am right now, but here is what I am experiencing:
1. The L30 got really hot, like not warm, but HOT.
2. Plugging in my DT990 headphone in and the noise started to crackle nonstop at all settings (seems to be better on -9db) and on any streaming platforms or PC/laptops. OMG!
I am not sure if this is a defective unit, or if I am doing something wrong. I sold my lovely Atom Amp to get this to pair with my E30, and I am questioning this decision now. Could you help me? (P.S I am using: RCA JDS Labs Stack Cable 15cm/0.5ft)
Thank you so much!
1. The L30 got really hot, like not warm, but HOT.
2. Plugging in my DT990 headphone in and the noise started to crackle nonstop at all settings (seems to be better on -9db) and on any streaming platforms or PC/laptops. OMG!
I am not sure if this is a defective unit, or if I am doing something wrong. I sold my lovely Atom Amp to get this to pair with my E30, and I am questioning this decision now. Could you help me? (P.S I am using: RCA JDS Labs Stack Cable 15cm/0.5ft)
Thank you so much!
Last edited:
Does the power supply have the correct voltage? If yes, did you try L30 with another DAC or player (use Y cable and connect your pc/mobile/laptop)? Try to disconnect L30 from any device and listen to it if there is any noise turning the volume pot and differents gain setting.
solderdude
Grand Contributor
As half_dog already mentioned: Check if the power supply has the correct mains input voltage.
When this is the case:
When nothing is connected but mains and the headphone do you hear crackling or noise ?
Does the power supply also get unusually warm ?
I am in US, so I believe the voltage is correct? 100-120V input. Unfortunately I don't have another DAC to try this with, I will try connecting the Y cable directly to my phone/laptop later to see. But currently via E30 and 2 different laptop devices, the same issue is present.
Last edited:
I believe so, although you can get 220V from outlets on US. Would you have another system (active speakers, receivers, amplifiers...) which has RCA inputs? Would be interesting to test E30 as well. As I said before, either the E30 and L30 I've got have don't have a nice fitting with my cables and when they get loose it makes some noise. If possible, try different cables.
Last edited:
I just swapped out a different 1/4 inch headphone adapter, and it seems to help with the crackling. Interesting... I will keep an eye out for any other crackling.
Regarding temperature, probably there's not much to do about it? I am just afraid under long uses, it will incur some damages with excessive heat.
Regarding temperature, probably there's not much to do about it? I am just afraid under long uses, it will incur some damages with excessive heat.
I have the 250 ohm version, so not too low of an impedance. I mean, it just seems kinda hot even when in standby mode or preamp mode. But maybe that's normal for this model?
solderdude
Grand Contributor
With the DT990 at normal listening levels just a few mW will dissipated so should not raise the temp significantly.
Temperature increase could come from 2 halves of the TPA6120 having different DC output voltages or idle current from 2x TPA6120A.
Since some complain about temperatures (often without actually measuring) my bet would be one of the TPA6120 may have different DC offset at their outputs In such a case the 2 output halves will be connected via 6.6 Ohm and a voltage difference would mean it would draw a constant DC current while the combined output would have little to no DC.
I expect John knows if this could be a cause of raised temperature or not. No idea what the spread/tolerances are in a nested feedback situation.
110V is the correct voltage for US.
Crackling can indeed be an adapter, dirty plug or brand new socket causing this.
Temperature increase could come from 2 halves of the TPA6120 having different DC output voltages or idle current from 2x TPA6120A.
Since some complain about temperatures (often without actually measuring) my bet would be one of the TPA6120 may have different DC offset at their outputs In such a case the 2 output halves will be connected via 6.6 Ohm and a voltage difference would mean it would draw a constant DC current while the combined output would have little to no DC.
I expect John knows if this could be a cause of raised temperature or not. No idea what the spread/tolerances are in a nested feedback situation.
110V is the correct voltage for US.
Crackling can indeed be an adapter, dirty plug or brand new socket causing this.
Thank you for your insights. I think the crackling was indeed caused by my adapter as when I changed to a different one, the crackling is gone. However, I am not sure if the brand new socket has anything to do with this as well? I question this because I was using the very same adapter with my Atom Amp, and the issue wasn't present like with the L30. Should I be worried about the L30? Or is this a sole/exclusive issue from the 1/4' adapter, and the Atom Amp just acted differently (meaning not as harsh and producing crackling like L30).
Regarding temperature, since I am a newbie in the audiophile field, my knowledge is very limited. I didn't officially measure the temp, I was just telling the high thermal based on current uses, and comparison with my past uses of Atom. I'm curious if the high thermal is something concerning or if it is still in a tolerable range.
Regarding temperature, since I am a newbie in the audiophile field, my knowledge is very limited. I didn't officially measure the temp, I was just telling the high thermal based on current uses, and comparison with my past uses of Atom. I'm curious if the high thermal is something concerning or if it is still in a tolerable range.
Last edited:
solderdude
Grand Contributor
Not all 6.3mm sockets are created equal. Some of them make better contact or at another spot on the ring or tip. Also not all 6.3mm plugs are created equal. Some tips have deeper 'dents' then others.
Some very new sockets in amps may have some cleaning agents on the contacts that wears off after inserting plugs a couple of times.
Just switch the amp off. Let it cool down and when you switch it on check how fast it gets warmer.
Or just put a thermometer on top. everyone has one. Takes the guessing out.
Just above body temp metal is easily felt as very warm/hot.
At 60 degrees you cannot hold your hand on it after a short moment.
Some very new sockets in amps may have some cleaning agents on the contacts that wears off after inserting plugs a couple of times.
Just switch the amp off. Let it cool down and when you switch it on check how fast it gets warmer.
Or just put a thermometer on top. everyone has one. Takes the guessing out.
Just above body temp metal is easily felt as very warm/hot.
At 60 degrees you cannot hold your hand on it after a short moment.
solderdude
Grand Contributor
I would think a 10 degrees celsius increase over a time period of a few hours could be normal for a small metal enclosure with no venting openings.
Vini darko
Major Contributor
John yang said 43°c amp temp is normal in a warm room.
Same issue on my E30
No issue here, but rather tight. Try better cables probably.
solderdude
Grand Contributor
The problem with metal surfaces is that when one touches it and the temp is below that of the fingers heat is drawn from the fingers making it feel colder than if you were to touch plastic.
When you touch a metal surface that is higher in temp it quickly conducts warmth to your fingers where plastics don't so a metal surface feels hotter.
So for this reason measurements are better than touch.
The notion of what a 'warm room' is may differ regionally so is no 'measure'.
We need to know the baseline temp, the on temp after an hour or so and when stacked this will also greatly affect the final temperature.
When you touch a metal surface that is higher in temp it quickly conducts warmth to your fingers where plastics don't so a metal surface feels hotter.
So for this reason measurements are better than touch.
The notion of what a 'warm room' is may differ regionally so is no 'measure'.
We need to know the baseline temp, the on temp after an hour or so and when stacked this will also greatly affect the final temperature.
Similar threads
