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Topping L30 Headphone Amplifier Review

Iglo

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Yes, the L30 has relay controlled outputs (so the clicks you hear when using the switches are the relays).
 

solderdude

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Both the outputs as well as the gain switch all go through relays. So yes... clicking sounds is what it is supposed to do.
 

Iglo

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I must say that I like the clicking sounds, feels like the amp is getting ready for business ;)
 
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Removal of the volume control tutorial has been described already (see link).
Requires 2 strings.

When you get a chance to remove the PCB I remember someone asking for a picture of the PCB.
Thank you all for helping me. Below are the pictures of PCB, both 2012 and 2006 versions that I have, as requested.
2012:
MVIMG_20210408_094303-min.jpg

MVIMG_20210408_094318-min.jpg

2006:
MVIMG_20210408_091752-min.jpg
MVIMG_20210408_091807-min.jpg
 

solderdude

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One can clearly see the hand soldered parts and the lack of proper cleaning.
The 2012 version is better in that aspect as well.
 

companyja

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Seems like this area has changed, of course aside from the holes in the corners, the pin and those five holes in the middle with a + sign on the back



Other than that, looks identical to me
 

Vini darko

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Can see clear changes to the dc protection circuit. To the top of the chip are diode ,resistor , resistor , capacitor , diode on the 2012 version below the chip there are three resistors. On 2006 above the chip we have diode, diode , resistor , resistor, cap and below there are two resistors. Cant see the values. There is also a change to the switch and led traces leading back to the rest of the circuit on the underside. And a additional little trace by the gain switch.
 
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sagiib

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Just tested. I use mine around 8hours a day, 2012XXXX serial no. Turn on (HPA): click. Pre mode: click. Back to HPA mode: click. Turn off: click. These might simply be the muting relays. In any case it's completely harmless. I would not worry :D
Thank you all for the replies, I'm glad this is normal then :)

There's no click when turning the unit off tho, so that's different from your unit Veri, but I guess that's not a problem anyway.

Thanks again!
 
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I got my L30 replacement yesterday and at first I was happy, hooked up my headphones and sound was great both from my laptop via USB and TV via optical to E30 to L30 to headphones.

Today I can't get it to work. The only difference is that I set up the APO Equalizer on the laptop. I can get sound from my speakers if I disconnect the L30 and go directly from E30 to my preamp. However from L30 I cannot get any sound (E30 in DAC mode) via headphone output or through my speakers in PRE mode. Tried 3 different RCA cable pairs between the E30 and L30 too. Tried my laptop via USB and TV via optical like yesterday. Anything I'm missing?
 

Iglo

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I got my L30 replacement yesterday and at first I was happy, hooked up my headphones and sound was great both from my laptop via USB and TV via optical to E30 to L30 to headphones.

Today I can't get it to work. The only difference is that I set up the APO Equalizer on the laptop. I can get sound from my speakers if I disconnect the L30 and go directly from E30 to my preamp. However from L30 I cannot get any sound (E30 in DAC mode) via headphone output or through my speakers in PRE mode. Tried 3 different RCA cable pairs between the E30 and L30 too. Tried my laptop via USB and TV via optical like yesterday. Anything I'm missing?
Just to check all options, could you try the L30 with another source (so maybe laptop > amp) without the E30? And if the status led on?
Third thing that comes to mind; do you hear the relays click when you change the front switches (OFF / HPA / PRE)?
 
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Just to check all options, could you try the L30 with another source (so maybe laptop > amp) without the E30? And if the status led on?
Third thing that comes to mind; do you hear the relays click when you change the front switches (OFF / HPA / PRE)?
I swear I checked all the connections, but something must have been loose since now it is working again! :)
It's almost always user error, especially with me....
 

Iglo

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I swear I checked all the connections, but something must have been loose since now it is working again! :)
It's almost always user error, especially with me....
Glad to hear everything is working again!
 
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Glad to see they've permanently stopped the practice of removing the text from the components. I'm a firm right-to-repair believer and that stupid sanding of IC's will only hinder the repair-people and hardly deter the copy-people. They stopped doing that much earlier than this new revision, by the the way. Now you're only truly f*cked if the STM microcontroller quits, since they don't open source the firmware. But some relay, delay and dc-protection logic could also be reverse engineered, so there's hardly any ground to keep that a secret also.
 
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Just got my replacement from Shenzhenaudio and it is a 2101... model. Only small differences I could notice about the build from the outside, for example a much less stiff volume knob (not that it was any bad before of course) and an ever so slightly rougher feeling texture on the shell. Other than that everything seems the same and I am very happy with Topping and Shenzhenaudio^^ There was that annoying issue with their customer support not being able to get into contact with the amazon seller department, (which is apparently seperate) but thanks to the instructions by @GGroch (thank you again!) I got through the rather hidden option on Amazon and everything went smoothly from there!
 

Acerun

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I just got a serial number beginning with 2101... I'm guessing that's good and one of the newest ones, correct?
 
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