Topping L30 Headphone Amplifier Review

[david123]

I really don't want to make this too easy and do not recommend to perform this mod to anything other than 2011 and the early 10% of 2012.
It would prevent below 2011 versions to 'blow up' by electrostatic discharges but the DC protection (that should save headphones from being destroyed) isn't working properly in older versions.
So I am reluctant to show how this has to be done other than saying connect the PCB common to the enclosure.

Those with enough knowledge of electronics that can safely do this will know enough.
Another suggestion is to wade through this thread. It has been described here ... somewhere.

Do this at your own risk and never sell one onward. Have it replaced.

Thanks. I'm an engineer. Just trying to do it to hace some diy fun. Dealer sent me the replacement and let me keep the faulty one.

 

[Iglo]

Ok, I got it.
But it is a little bit strange because you can not get the most power out of this small beautiful chunk when pairing with unbalance DAC like E30 which topping suggested. By the way, your 660s does not need much power so you will be good to go.

Yes, the HD660s are mentioned as a reference and indeed fairly easy to drive.

The initial review of Amir also states that there is ample power even with inefficient headphones (using a standard 2V input). As stated by JohnYang1997 earlier in this topic you will have almost max output at 16Ohm and no clipping at any realistic load even at max volume high gain when using 2V input. Otherwise you'd get clipping driving 32ohm headphones.

The L30 with the E30 as a source will be perfectly fine for most headphones besides some very inefficient ones. For those headphones I personally would get a different setup vs feeding the L30 a 3V input (as you could pick a DAC with 3V output).
If you doubt about the power for your use case just provide details of which headphones you intend to use, there are many people in this forum (with way more technical knowledge) who can advice you if the setup will work.

 

[dgnzcn]

Yes, the HD660s are mentioned as a reference and indeed fairly easy to drive.

The initial review of Amir also states that there is ample power even with inefficient headphones (using a standard 2V input). As stated by JohnYang1997 earlier in this topic you will have almost max output at 16Ohm and no clipping at any realistic load even at max volume high gain when using 2V input. Otherwise you'd get clipping driving 32ohm headphones.

The L30 with the E30 as a source will be perfectly fine for most headphones besides some very inefficient ones. For those headphones I personally would get a different setup vs feeding the L30 a 3V input (as you could pick a DAC with 3V output).
If you doubt about the power for your use case just provide details of which headphones you intend to use, there are many people in this forum (with way more technical knowledge) who can advice you if the setup will work.

Can I intercept and ask a question? How about AKG K612 PRO with Topping L30, can it drive comfortably?

 

[solderdude]

Can I intercept and ask a question? How about AKG K612 PRO with Topping L30, can it drive comfortably?

yes, up to 116dB peak so very loud levels.
110dB SPL with some bass boost.

 

[half_dog]

I got replacement unit from Shenzhen Audio on March 19, still with serial number 2012xxxx. I heard there was rattling inside and I was affraid it would be pogo pin and I had nothing to solder it. Pin was fine but instead I found this screw inside. Is it important ? I have no idea how to open it completely to check and I was affraid it may disturb the balance and whatnot as JohnYang1997 said once here I believe. View attachment 122367 View attachment 122368

It seems to be from the front painel. Try to throw some light inside the case and look for a screw at each far side. Probably you will see one and maybe the screw threads from the loose screw...
If you have a long enough hex driver just put it back. Nothing to worry about

Screws here, screws there, screws everywhere

 

[Acerun]

I think this one's got a screw loose... Said Bugs Bunny some time some where.

 

[Pawlakbest]

It seems to be from the front painel. Try to throw some light inside the case and look for a screw at each far side. Probably you will see one and maybe the screw threads from the loose screw...
If you have a long enough hex driver just put it back. Nothing to worry about

Screws here, screws there, screws everywhere

I tried but I don't see a possibility to put it back without removing PCB first, and that requires volume knob to be removed. Unless anyone can show me how to put this screw back I need some advice(video would be best) on how to remove volume knob as it seems to be really hard to remove even much force. I looked everywhere for dissasembly video of L30 but I only found removed PCB without steps on how to do it Please help. I'm really sad that I need to do it myself, why can't I just get L30 that is totally fixed

 

[solderdude]

Removal of the volume control tutorial has been described already (see link).
Requires 2 strings.

When you get a chance to remove the PCB I remember someone asking for a picture of the PCB.

 

[dgnzcn]

My Topping L30 + E30 arrived today, Topping L30 starts with serial number 2101xxxx, Topping E30 serial number 2102xxxx.

 

[Pawlakbest]

Removal of the volume control tutorial has been described already (see link).
Requires 2 strings.

When you get a chance to remove the PCB I remember someone asking for a picture of the PCB.

Does screws from the front panel (on the sides of panel, one of them I need to put in place) hold the PCB ? If yes then I have a problem because this is the longest 2mm hex driver I could find in local shops and its just a little short to reach to front panel Should I contact Shenzhen Audio about this ? Or do I need to find the hex driver somewhere online(most of sites doesn't say how long is the driver) ?

 

[solderdude]

to remove the PCB only the rear panel and the nut around the volpot need to be removed.

Remove the volpot knob (pieces of string) and the nut around the volpot and you can pull out the PCB.

 

[dgnzcn]

Can Topping L30 connection be made with motherboard spdif output?

 

[solderdude]

Can Topping L30 connection be made with motherboard spdif output?

The E30 yes, probably only support up to 24/96. The biggest advantage, however, is that you do not have to worry about ground loops.
The L30 is an amp only so can only be connected to the green line-out 3.5mm TRS jack.

 

[dgnzcn]

The E30 yes, probably only support up to 24/96. The biggest advantage, however, is that you do not have to worry about ground loops.
The L30 is an amp only so can only be connected to the green line-out 3.5mm TRS jack.

But if I connect an amp output on the green output to the topping L30, won't it cause a malfunction?
So let's say it worked, doesn't it differentiate the sound quality?

 

[solderdude]

But if I connect an amp output on the green output to the topping L30, won't it cause a malfunction?

You cannot connect 2 outputs together.
Instead of the E30 you can connect the PC line-out (green TRS) to the L30 INPUT (TRS to 2x RCA cable).
But since you already have the E30 connect the E30 via SPDIF and the E30 to the L30.

 

[sagiib]

Hi there! First post here, I just bought my first L30, serial "2101". Loving the sound, it's my first dedicated HP Amp so I can't compare it with anything else, I was just using my HP out from my MOTU Ultralite, and there's a huge difference.

But it makes a very audible click sound when turning it on, both choosing HPA or PRE, or when switching between the 2 modes. It just doesn't make that click when you turn it off. It doens't make the click either when swithcing between +9/0/-9.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but as there has been some issues with previous verions, I would like to know if that's normal and all the units are making that click when turning it on or switching modes.

Thanks a lot in advance!

 

[Veri]

But it makes a very audible click sound when turning it on, both choosing HPA or PRE, or when switching between the 2 modes. It just doesn't make that click when you turn it off. It doens't make the click either when swithcing between +9/0/-9.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but as there has been some issues with previous verions, I would like to know if that's normal and all the units are making that click when turning it on or switching modes.

Thanks a lot in advance!

Just tested. I use mine around 8hours a day, 2012XXXX serial no. Turn on (HPA): click. Pre mode: click. Back to HPA mode: click. Turn off: click. These might simply be the muting relays. In any case it's completely harmless. I would not worry

 

[dgnzcn]

Is the relay activated in button operations in topping L30?

 

[Quomz]

Is the relay activated in button operations in topping L30?

It has no buttons, only two switches and a volume knob. For the Off / HPA / Pre switch there is a - relay? - click on change like Veri described. Same for both my original and replacement as far as I recall.

 

[dgnzcn]

It has no buttons, only two switches and a volume knob. For the Off / HPA / Pre switch there is a - relay? - click on change like Veri described. Same for both my original and replacement as far as I recall.

Actually, when I was typing a button, I mean switch, and I have an L30