I wonder what the VU meter looks like and how easy/hard it is to program the PEQ. The buttons slightly remind me of those on the RME ADI-2 DAC, as does the feature set, for one third of the price.
After owning this piece($327 after tax) I found the p-eq was one of the easiest to set than 6 other DSPs I've owned, there's more than enough earrings to fix irregularities in response. It took me days working with other DSPs, dealing with diminishing memory and CPU constantly going back to adjust lower settings in other parts of the settings to achieve any correction turned into a pain especially with the confusing back and forth of pages and millions of button pushes just to change one setting 1db drive me nuts, the topping is only limited to the p-eq but that's ok because what they advertise is fully available while other DSPs that claim to do hundreds of settings, only end up being able to use a very limited number of settings in the real world due to memory and CPU availability.
What I didn't like was how the toslink input sounded connected to my TV, the tiny speakers in my TV sounded better than my $12k audio system using TOSLINK.
The other issue and more important was using the p-eq or basically using the topping as a pre amp, caused the same exact loss in realism in the sound as every other DSP I've owned. The mini DSP, both Behringer DSPs, a stetson, a Brazilian made, bi-amp pre DSP and the topping all have the same degradation of sound. This may or may not be detectible by tests, I'm not sure how it could be analyzed without some way of showing signal in and signal out losses. The music becomes sterile and the imaging is destroyed along with any staging and realism. The dynamics change dramatically and I used it for 2 hours before I decided to return it.
It was silent but so are a bunch of other things rated far down in the list created here.
I saw another test done on Arylic equipment and it was laughed at, normally that should stop anyone from buying anything from them but since I find little use for the tests done here, nothing is compared to real world results that show major loss in sound or difficulties with using them, software issues and ease of use overall. I ignored the post that was provided and ordered an Arylic BP50 pre-amp (cost $99 total) because it had all features I could use and had the most versatile inputs and outputs. I had to have an HDMI input, that was the most important aspect just to start, that left me about 20 pieces in the entire world that have that available in a pre-amp, then I had to have RCA or XLR outputs, that removed about 10 from the list, I didn't need a headphone amp since I have no use why should I pay for it. That cut my choices down to about 4 or 5 and 3 of them were over $600, there was a choice between the Fosi and the Acrylic but the Fosi was missing a feature that the Arylic has, a fully adjustable Subwoofer output that can be set as high as 300Hz.
Since my Martin Logan Prodigy's have the woofer xover bypassed to improve the bass response, I need an active crossover at 250Hz to match the panels. The Arylic was able to be set at 250Hz and it has a built in eq as well. I can set the output of the sub and they offer a sub sonic boost as well. It tested it and it dies in fact add more deep bass if needed. My amps are clean and quiet with huge watts available, typically I can hear any imperfections in recordings and amplifiers I use can make a huge difference in delivery if sound.
I hear nothing at all when I use the Arylic, same thing as the topping, the Arylic is actually better sounding than when I ran my source directly into a DBX 231 eq and then to an active analog xover feeding a Sunfure 300 on panels (2Ω) and a QSC GX5 on woofers (2Ω). The amount of watts available is far more than I'd be using ever but this leaves the amps at about half power at most.
The sound from the Arylic is even better sounding than straight in directly and it replaced both the DBX and the active xover, plus I have a remote, a pre amp to switch sources, a better eq, a USB media player, 2 direction dual channel Bluetooth (receiver and transmitter x2) and a music streamer, DAC from computer and an app that is simple to use and gives me just the exact useful control I needed.
In the real world it turned out to be even more than I could have hoped for as a pre-amp, I doubted I'd be able to use this piece without degrading the music but the Arylic BP50 is the only piece I've owned that has not affected the sound output to be altered. The ability to set the Sub out to 250Hz was something I've not seen in any other piece. That alone was enough to make it worth $99 but then there's so much more.
The things I don't like are, the app needs location turned on to use it, the unit is set to auto select the inputs, when I turn off my tv (which is also controlled by the Arylic remote through HDMI ARC) it will start playing the USB drive (up to 128gb) automatically without me selecting it. Late night tv viewing can end with a loud music player kicking in unexpectedly. The USB player can't play flies in folders, it won't show folders to select. There's quite a bit of skipping songs if you want to hear anything specific. I also am not a fan of the front panels set up, it only shows what device you're using, the topping has a nice display although it's hard to see any further than arms reach.
There have been some Arylic models that have had bad firmware provided through their site. I saw how they have worked on correcting it for those who had issues and so far all were recoverable. The BP50 was not one of the bad firmware but I have not had any urges to update mine since it works exactly as I hoped.
The low mid bass has become like a sledgehammer, there's no disconnect between midbass then nothing until the ultra low bass kicks in, as I've encountered without the Arylic pre. Same amps but the signal only runs through the pre and then directly to the amps, the midrange has always been incredibly accurate and that has not changed, I can say that the Arylic pre has also made a great improvement to the highs. I was getting a roll off in highs that required a tiny boost at 10KHz before but that issue has been corrected now and an odd irregularity in both the lows (around 50Hz to 70Hz) and the ultra highs (both had a strange quick drop that looked like a xover point would look). Just a straight line from a peak to a sharp dip then leveled off and rolled afterward. Both issues have disappeared now and show a much flatter response throughout the spectrum with a slight dip around 1kHz to 2kHz that is corrected with a single eq +2db centered at 1.6kHz adjustment.
The vocals stay centered from album to album, no need for micro balancing adjustment between recordings, I forgot to mention the BP50 has a Phono input with switchable MM or MC settings and an RCA digital coax input. It may not be the most sophisticated piece out there but in the real world it dies far more than anything cisting $99! It's tricky to find it fir sale since only one ad posted in Google sales will lead you to it to order. The Arylic site won't show it to you directly without following that one link. I think they're hiding it so they can ask $200 for the next replacement piece that's striped of anything I could use. It appears they're trying to make things more modular between their stuff. Offering things that are made to work together yet they could just make one all in one piece and be done with it. Topping is the same way now, they're gearing things to work together with their own stuff but not forcing you into it.
Once Arylic gets their software optimized they will have increased sales, they offer a 3rd party app that gives a much deeper control over the DSP than the phone app for an extra $20. I haven't ordered it yet since I wanted to be sure I was keeping it. I will be ordering that extra feature today and I will be cursing it hours later as I struggle with it on my computer. I hate having my computer on during music playback and hate having to run cables to my comp which sits 15 feet from the pre.
I've found that these numbers provided here have little meaning in the real world, time and time again what's shown here as the most important thing in rating anything is based on something that has no real world affect on sound. Testing beyond what can be heard is senseless and offers nothing to tell the users of what ti expect. If the UI sucks, that's a huge deal, if it doesn't offer the needed inputs and outputs, that's a huge deal, if some inputs sound different than others that's a huge deal but tests won't tell you these things, if the volume works strangely that can be a huge deal, if my system would automatically lose control of the volume and it goes to max that would be a huge problem, many of these types of small units have those issues develop.
There's much more to anything than pure numbers that represent things that are out of our hearing range and should not even be bothered to be tested, let alone basing their entire rating on that one thing. If you set the noise gate high enough in digital, you get the great numbers but you lose tons of info because of that setting, so where's the balance, the one that can do it without great loss is the best, not the one that can put out no noise at all especially when you can't hear either of them in the real world but you can hear the loss or degradation in sound between them and the one with far lower Sinad is sounding far better because they're not concerned about hitting the required numbers to be rated highly on this site.
Lowering their rank based on things that have little affect on sound but scoring them high when they're failing at reproducing the sound accurately really makes me reconsider what's posted here to be useful at all. I'm not seeing reviews that uncover the real world shortcomings or operations issues. Some people have said they hear crosstalk in the topping, that should bring their rating down far below any others that don't have that issue yet that's ignored for some reason. I guess if people are looking for the quietest pieces (even though you can't hear the difference between that noise floor) and not the best sounding pieces there will be a need for these tests. If you don't own a system that's revealing enough to expose those issues, then why are you worrying about what's the quietest pieces? If you can't hear the degradation of the sound when using the topping then you don't even need to worry about any tests because you will never hear them no matter how it tests, you need to buy a better system to begin with. Using tiny amps that Topping, Fosi, SMS, Douk or any of those amps will never get you to the point that you'll hear the losses that occur and there's no guarantee they will be silent no matter how they test here.