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Topping DX5II Balanced DAC and Headphone Amp Review

Rate this DAC & HP Amp

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 11 2.5%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 14 3.2%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 43 9.8%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 371 84.5%

  • Total voters
    439
Going to FW 1.88 reset settings for me. Going from it to 1.91 did not.

Same.

If you happen to have a few moments to verify a possible issue (details are in the linked post in post #1115 above).

Since I know you have a SMSL PO100, you would be able to connect things in the exact same way I do. Basically, install the FW (which I think you already have), connect your Macbook to your DX5 II with the PO100 in between, select the OPT input on the DX5 II, press either of the C buttons on the remote (this is done because in my testing with the beta FWs, this effectively "resets" the issue, and ensures that it will trigger -- if you don't want to go through the trouble of redoing your settings, save the preset first before pressing the corresponding C button), and then listen to some music for about 10 minutes max (local files or something like Bandcamp online).

If you're "lucky", you'll hear a hiccup/stutter within the first minute, but sometimes it takes a bit longer. I just tested myself on v1.91, and it happened within 30 seconds -- listening with headphones will definitely help catch the hiccup/stutter To correct it, go into the settings, and flip the SPDIF modes back and forth (from 1 to 2, and back to 1, but wait for the relay click to happen after changing the setting each time, just in case).
 
Same.

If you happen to have a few moments to verify a possible issue (details are in the linked post in post #1115 above).

Since I know you have a SMSL PO100, you would be able to connect things in the exact same way I do. Basically, install the FW (which I think you already have), connect your Macbook to your DX5 II with the PO100 in between, select the OPT input on the DX5 II, press either of the C buttons on the remote (this is done because in my testing with the beta FWs, this effectively "resets" the issue, and ensures that it will trigger -- if you don't want to go through the trouble of redoing your settings, save the preset first before pressing the corresponding C button), and then listen to some music for about 10 minutes max (local files or something like Bandcamp online).

If you're "lucky", you'll hear a hiccup/stutter within the first minute, but sometimes it takes a bit longer. I just tested myself on v1.91, and it happened within 30 seconds -- listening with headphones will definitely help catch the hiccup/stutter To correct it, go into the settings, and flip the SPDIF modes back and forth (from 1 to 2, and back to 1, but wait for the relay click to happen after changing the setting each time, just in case).
I will have to get the remote out of the box for that so I will do it at a later time.

How is the popping for you? For me, it is still there.
 
I will have to get the remote out of the box for that so I will do it at a later time.

How is the popping for you? For me, it is still there.

Sure, there's obviously no rush. Just seeing if anyone else has that experience.

The popping won't be resolved until someone (Topping, Apple, XMOS, Thesycon) takes the issue seriously.
 
Hi guys,

recieved my DX 5 II with the firmware 1.76, device version 0.15. last week.
i used it for a week without any drivers, just plug and play to my windows machine (i have EQ APO there)
yesterday i installed the topping tune which also installed its topping driver.
after installing it i instantly noticed slight pop noise after while when i paused song/video etc.
uninstalled the topping driver and the issue is resolved. so no topping driver then

also i want to ask, there was stated device does not run hot, however mine is running about 45ish degree celsius (113°F) , is it a "normal" operataing temp? ambient temp is about 27°C (81°F).

and lastly, i have topping e2x2 paired with beyerdynamic DT797 PV (for gaming and casual listening), and HifiMan HE400SE v2 (connected to 4.4mm bal out), and i was expecting more loudness given the significant more power than E2X2. Is that normal...?


thanks
 
The popping won't be resolved until someone (Topping, Apple, XMOS, Thesycon) takes the issue seriously.
XMOS shouldn't be on that list at all (see earlier post for why). Thesycon probably shouldn't either - unless they haven't done something Topping paid them to do. Apple is arguable - it probably wouldn't be the first time they've added a workaround for another manufacturer's problem, but it shouldn't really be their responsibility either, and they don't have much incentive. Topping are the ones with something to fix, because it's their code and/or hardware that's apparently not behaving properly. I still haven't seen anyone quantify the pops though.
 
Hi guys,

recieved my DX 5 II with the firmware 1.76, device version 0.15. last week.
i used it for a week without any drivers, just plug and play to my windows machine (i have EQ APO there)
yesterday i installed the topping tune which also installed its topping driver.
after installing it i instantly noticed slight pop noise after while when i paused song/video etc.

If you're using Windows, and you install the 5.74 driver, you can open the XMOS Audio Control app, and set the DAC streaming to be "Always On" instead of the default "On When Needed." I think the pop you heard was exactly the thing that people have been discussing over the last few thread pages.

also i want to ask, there was stated device does not run hot, however mine is running about 45ish degree celsius (113°F) , is it a "normal" operataing temp? ambient temp is about 27°C (81°F).

45 degrees celsius is well within the range of normal (it is not quite a lot).
 
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also i want to ask, there was stated device does not run hot, however mine is running about 45ish degree celsius (113°F) , is it a "normal" operataing temp? ambient temp is about 27°C (81°F).

and lastly, i have topping e2x2 paired with beyerdynamic DT797 PV (for gaming and casual listening), and HifiMan HE400SE v2 (connected to 4.4mm bal out), and i was expecting more loudness given the significant more power than E2X2. Is that normal...?

temp.jpg


45°C is quite a lot... mine has been working for the last 5 hours ( 36,2 C ) , but very often, for no reason, it gets lukewarm, as if there was a fan inside... but I know there isn't one... I have no idea why this is happening.


If you need more power... MENU >>>Output Settings>>> Gain >>> HIGH
 
Sure, there's obviously no rush. Just seeing if anyone else has that experience.

The popping won't be resolved until someone (Topping, Apple, XMOS, Thesycon) takes the issue seriously.
I tried it this evening. The USB connections briefly disappears when changing configuration. I have listened to 10 minutes of music using TIDAL and not encountered an issue. I then listened to local files and got an issue right at the end of the 10 minutes I wanted to listen to. It is quite noticeable as it halts playback for maybe half a second.
 
I tried it this evening. The USB connections briefly disappears when changing configuration. I have listened to 10 minutes of music using TIDAL and not encountered an issue. I then listened to local files and got an issue right at the end of the 10 minutes I wanted to listen to. It is quite noticeable as it halts playback for maybe half a second.

Yeah, it's a very brief hiccup/stutter. Interesting that it didn't happen with TIDAL. I would also test listening to something from Bandcamp online. Thanks for checking.

And the pressing of the C buttons is to cause the disconnect to happen, which effectively "resets" the issue in case anything was done to negate the issue from happening (for example, if at any point you switched the SPDIF modes).
 
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Yeah, it's a very brief hiccup/stutter. Interesting that it didn't happen with TIDAL. I would also test listening to something from Bandcamp online. Thanks for checking.

And the pressing of the C buttons is to cause the disconnect to happen, which effectively "resets" the issue in case anything was done to negate the issue from happening (for example, if at any point you switched the SPDIF modes).
I mentioned this earlier in the other DX5 II thread, as I had the same issue. It has been a thing since I got it.

I stopped using the C buttons and just made the A/B buttons do the same thing instead. Only downside was not having the custom volume setting I had with C1/C2, however I don't mind it much.
 
I mentioned this earlier in the other DX5 II thread, as I had the same issue. It has been a thing since I got it.

I stopped using the C buttons and just made the A/B buttons do the same thing instead. Only downside was not having the custom volume setting I had with C1/C2, however I don't mind it much.

The disconnecting isn't necessarily the problem, but I get how it isn't ideal. I just happened to figure out that pressing those buttons causes the hiccup/stutter issue to come back after doing the SPDIF mode switch workaround, so I have it as a repro step because I know it will create the situation where the hiccup is likely to occur. I know that power cycling the DX5 II using the switch on the back does not have the same effect as pressing the C buttons (I think the disconnect needs to happen while the power is still on).
 
It reset all my settings. LCD still doesn't turn off completely just like before, just the backlight
 
It reset all my settings. LCD still doesn't turn off completely just like before, just the backlight

I have definitely looked for that, so unless I am not looking for the right thing, I do not see any backlight on my unit. Do you have a photo of what that looks like?
 
I have definitely looked for that, so unless I am not looking for the right thing, I do not see any backlight on my unit. Do you have a photo of what that looks like?
Put it in stand-by. The screen should be off. OK, now, take a flashlight and lit up the screen. You'll see the LCD text is still there.
The backlight is off, but the screen does not 100% turn off..

Edit: spelling
 
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But it in stand-by. The screen should be off. OK, now, take a flashlight and lit up the screen. You'll see the LCD text is still there.
The backlight is off, but the screen does not 100% turn off..

I will check that, thanks!

@Bleib I saw what you mean. It showed the dB level.
 
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Yeah, it's a very brief hiccup/stutter. Interesting that it didn't happen with TIDAL. I would also test listening to something from Bandcamp online. Thanks for checking.

And the pressing of the C buttons is to cause the disconnect to happen, which effectively "resets" the issue in case anything was done to negate the issue from happening (for example, if at any point you switched the SPDIF modes).
With TIDAL, there might have been something at the start of a track now that I think of it. However, I have had quite some trouble with TIDAL buffering during playback, so it could have been that as well.
 
Hi all

Can the display EQ meter colour be changed from blue bars, I ask as I saw a pic of it in green?
 
Hi all

Can the display EQ meter colour be changed from blue bars, I ask as I saw a pic of it in green?

If you're referring to the FFT display, yes. Go to Settings > Display > Theme
 
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