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Topping DX5 II

Strange. Mine doesn't have it. Just generic Topping Company information at the bottom with voltage and watt details.

It's possible that I am mis-remembering, but I know someone posted an image of the sticker either here or the other thread because there was a kind of hilarious typo. If I find it, I will cite the link. The other way would be to look in Topping Tune, but since your unit doesn't power on anymore, you can't check it that way.
 
It's possible that I am mis-remembering, but I know someone posted an image of the sticker either here or the other thread because there was a kind of hilarious typo. If I find it, I will cite the link. The other way would be to look in Topping Tune, but since your unit doesn't power on anymore, you can't check it that way.
Might be a sticker inside the unit. I think I can barely make one out, but can't really reach it. Will check tomorrow when I have my Allen key.
 
Might be a sticker inside the unit. I think I can barely make one out, but can't really reach it. Will check tomorrow when I have my Allen key.

I did mis-remember. This is the image I was thinking about:

 
Yeah, that's basically what I have at the bottom, printed directly onto the metal case though, not as a sticker.

Unless it gives you that information scanning the QR code on the side of the device?
 
Where can I check that?
I was able to find it in Topping Tune when you go to settings. Mine was recently bough and HW revision is 0.17.

Since your unit is dead I guess checking with Topping Tune is not going to work unfortunately.
 
I was able to find it in Topping Tune when you go to settings. Mine was recently bough and HW revision is 0.17.
Revision 0.17? Well that's great news that there's a new revision around. Where did you get yours from?
 
Revision 0.17? Well that's great news that there's a new revision around. Where did you get yours from?
I went to the High End Vienna convention, and I bought the one that was on display at Topping booth for 30% off. The guy at the booth also told me that the web support for Topping Home will be coming to DX5 II as well (didn't disclose the date).

I tried home.toppingaudio.com website and connecting DX5 II to it is still not working. However, the iOS app works flawlessly (connected through BT).
 
I went to the High End Vienna convention, and I bought the one that was on display at Topping booth for 30% off. The guy at the booth also told me that the web support for Topping Home will be coming to DX5 II as well (didn't disclose the date).

I tried home.toppingaudio.com website and connecting DX5 II to it is still not working. However, the iOS app works flawlessly (connected through BT).
Then I'll probably wait a little bit before getting a new one, to let old batches sell out.

That gives me hope that the newer revision might've solved those early failure points.
 
My adventure continues. I now have the Allen key to release the front panel. Once you remove the two screws from the back, you need to stick it in all the way through that same hole where the screws were to access the screws that hold the front panel to the case. The whole tool is 15cm long (including the handle). The actual metal arm is 12,5cm long and is just enough to reach the front panel screws.

My board looks the same as this one from August 2025, so it might be a revision 0.15.

A first (unplugged) resistance check with the multimeter on all the power lines showed no obvious short (tested lines +15V, -15V, 11.8V, 11V, +5.8V, -5.8V, 3.3V, 1.8V and 0.9V).

I believe the next step will be a live (plugged-in) test to check if all those lines actually reach their indicated voltages when powered on. Any advice from people experienced in electronics on what to check is welcome.

IMG_20260709_172556.jpg

IMG_20260709_173739.jpg
 
My board looks the same as this one from August 2025, so it might be a revision 0.15.

Likely, yes. This was the image posted, I think around the time when HW v0.16 was noticed:


It looks like Topping changed the 4.4mm board, probably to address some of the concerns people had with that particular headphone output. No idea what was changed with v0.17, unless that change in v0.16 was what caused the reported issues with that headphone output, and v0.17 was the fix from that? *shrugs*
 
Question and maybe a hint to not brick the device. I have two (you can rename them to get to the right one from the android app). My theory is the insertion or removal of the 4.4 balanced shorts something. The past two firmware updates kept every settings (older versions did not, easy to set back up but takes times, especially with all the updates. WHAT I DO: Turn the power switch off on the back of the device. Insert 4.4 turn on. And the other side, play your music then turn off the switch in the back and remove. Basically have the rear power switch off when inserting or removing the 4.4. Past two firmware updates I lose no settings doing this many times. QUESTION EXPERTS: Is anyone else doing this and if so has anyone bricked a unit. If so I will go with the standard jack, 1/4 inch or whatever it is, I already have those cords for my 4 main cans and swap them to be safe. SO WHAT SAY YOU EXPERTS. Has anyone bricked a unit with the rear power off when inserting or removing the 4.4 balanced when the unit is totally powered off with the switch in the back. THANKS FOR THE INFO, may help many of us.
 
Question and maybe a hint to not brick the device. I have two (you can rename them to get to the right one from the android app). My theory is the insertion or removal of the 4.4 balanced shorts something. The past two firmware updates kept every settings (older versions did not, easy to set back up but takes times, especially with all the updates. WHAT I DO: Turn the power switch off on the back of the device. Insert 4.4 turn on. And the other side, play your music then turn off the switch in the back and remove. Basically have the rear power switch off when inserting or removing the 4.4. Past two firmware updates I lose no settings doing this many times.

None of that is necessary. The reason why things occasionally get reset is likely a technical one, not the result of a short from a headphone output. The past two updates haven't reset the settings for anyone, and I doubt people were doing what you described (I certainly haven't). There's a lot of misinformation about the 4.4mm jack that has caused people to be unnecessarily fearful, IMO.

With any electronic device, unplugging/plugging in cables while the unit is completely off will always be the safest way of doing things.
 
My adventure continues. I now have the Allen key to release the front panel. Once you remove the two screws from the back, you need to stick it in all the way through that same hole where the screws were to access the screws that hold the front panel to the case. The whole tool is 15cm long (including the handle). The actual metal arm is 12,5cm long and is just enough to reach the front panel screws.

My board looks the same as this one from August 2025, so it might be a revision 0.15.

A first (unplugged) resistance check with the multimeter on all the power lines showed no obvious short (tested lines +15V, -15V, 11.8V, 11V, +5.8V, -5.8V, 3.3V, 1.8V and 0.9V).

I believe the next step will be a live (plugged-in) test to check if all those lines actually reach their indicated voltages when powered on. Any advice from people experienced in electronics on what to check is welcome.

View attachment 543835
View attachment 543836
Have a look around for "F" marked components on the PCB.

There's a new fashion some using some "recoverable" SMD type fuses which are not recoverable at all at the end of the day :facepalm:
If you find any check them for continuity. That's where I would start along with the basic voltage tests.
 
Have a look around for "F" marked components on the PCB.

There's a new fashion some using some "recoverable" SMD type fuses which are not recoverable at all at the end of the day :facepalm:
If you find any check them for continuity. That's where I would start along with the basic voltage tests.
I think I've reached my limit as to where I'm able to check this on my own.

I mostly used the available testing spots on the board for the different voltage rails.

15V: no obvious short, measures fine at actual 15.1V.
+/-15V no obvious short, but also doesn't come to live.
+/-5.8V no obvious short, but also doesn't come to live.
0.9V, 1.8V, and 3.3V: no obvious shorts, measure fine only in firmware update mode. In normal mode 1.8V and 3.3V hang at around 0.8V and 0.9V stays at basically 0V.
11.8V: no obvious short, measures fine at actual 11.44V.
5V: no obvious short, rail measures only 4.3V (which oddly seems to be by design if you check the buck converter section).

Booting into firmware update mode sometimes tries to power the USB on, but doesn't really work. This happens in those moments where the display backlight also turns on, but nothing else happens (nothing is displayed). This only happens in like 1 out of 6 firmware update mode attempts.

1783804030767.png
 
I think I've reached my limit as to where I'm able to check this on my own.

I mostly used the available testing spots on the board for the different voltage rails.

15V: no obvious short, measures fine at actual 15.1V.
+/-15V no obvious short, but also doesn't come to live.
+/-5.8V no obvious short, but also doesn't come to live.
0.9V, 1.8V, and 3.3V: no obvious shorts, measure fine only in firmware update mode. In normal mode 1.8V and 3.3V hang at around 0.8V and 0.9V stays at basically 0V.
11.8V: no obvious short, measures fine at actual 11.44V.
5V: no obvious short, rail measures only 4.3V (which oddly seems to be by design if you check the buck converter section).

Booting into firmware update mode sometimes tries to power the USB on, but doesn't really work. This happens in those moments where the display backlight also turns on, but nothing else happens (nothing is displayed). This only happens in like 1 out of 6 firmware update mode attempts.

View attachment 544241
I guess you tried the usual, different ports, different PC, unistall/install fresh, etc.

A good idea would also be to erase all the entries at device manager (including/specially) the hidden ones, damn XMOS creates a new one every time someone is changing ports.

What's weird is that the port is attempting power cycles as if it's shorting and recovering.
 
I guess you tried the usual, different ports, different PC, unistall/install fresh, etc.

A good idea would also be to erase all the entries at device manager (including/specially) the hidden ones, damn XMOS creates a new one every time someone is changing ports.

What's weird is that the port is attempting power cycles as if it's shorting and recovering.
USB not working is a downstream effect of whatever else is wrong with the unit. It doesn't need USB, as it's not a USB powered unit.

The problem is that the DX5 II doesn't even boot. No relay click, nothing on the display. The backlight of the display doesn't even get power most of the time when powered on in firmware update mode.
 
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