ziggurcat
Major Contributor
You are on a Mac, right?
Topping provided me with v1.14, and I was able to document the issue late last night. If you're interested (let me know if you have an issue viewing):
You are on a Mac, right?
Strange. Mine doesn't have it. Just generic Topping Company information at the bottom with voltage and watt details.It should be indicated on the sticker on the bottom of the unit.
Strange. Mine doesn't have it. Just generic Topping Company information at the bottom with voltage and watt details.
Might be a sticker inside the unit. I think I can barely make one out, but can't really reach it. Will check tomorrow when I have my Allen key.It's possible that I am mis-remembering, but I know someone posted an image of the sticker either here or the other thread because there was a kind of hilarious typo. If I find it, I will cite the link. The other way would be to look in Topping Tune, but since your unit doesn't power on anymore, you can't check it that way.
Might be a sticker inside the unit. I think I can barely make one out, but can't really reach it. Will check tomorrow when I have my Allen key.
www.audiosciencereview.com
Yeah, that's basically what I have at the bottom, printed directly onto the metal case though, not as a sticker.I did mis-remember. This is the image I was thinking about:
Yeah, that's basically what I have at the bottom, printed directly onto the metal case though, not as a sticker.
That just gives me the SN number of which I posted the batch here once (26035*****).Unless it gives you that information scanning the QR code on the side of the device?
I was able to find it in Topping Tune when you go to settings. Mine was recently bough and HW revision is 0.17.Where can I check that?
Revision 0.17? Well that's great news that there's a new revision around. Where did you get yours from?I was able to find it in Topping Tune when you go to settings. Mine was recently bough and HW revision is 0.17.
I went to the High End Vienna convention, and I bought the one that was on display at Topping booth for 30% off. The guy at the booth also told me that the web support for Topping Home will be coming to DX5 II as well (didn't disclose the date).Revision 0.17? Well that's great news that there's a new revision around. Where did you get yours from?
Then I'll probably wait a little bit before getting a new one, to let old batches sell out.I went to the High End Vienna convention, and I bought the one that was on display at Topping booth for 30% off. The guy at the booth also told me that the web support for Topping Home will be coming to DX5 II as well (didn't disclose the date).
I tried home.toppingaudio.com website and connecting DX5 II to it is still not working. However, the iOS app works flawlessly (connected through BT).
My board looks the same as this one from August 2025, so it might be a revision 0.15.
www.audiosciencereview.com
Question and maybe a hint to not brick the device. I have two (you can rename them to get to the right one from the android app). My theory is the insertion or removal of the 4.4 balanced shorts something. The past two firmware updates kept every settings (older versions did not, easy to set back up but takes times, especially with all the updates. WHAT I DO: Turn the power switch off on the back of the device. Insert 4.4 turn on. And the other side, play your music then turn off the switch in the back and remove. Basically have the rear power switch off when inserting or removing the 4.4. Past two firmware updates I lose no settings doing this many times.
Have a look around for "F" marked components on the PCB.My adventure continues. I now have the Allen key to release the front panel. Once you remove the two screws from the back, you need to stick it in all the way through that same hole where the screws were to access the screws that hold the front panel to the case. The whole tool is 15cm long (including the handle). The actual metal arm is 12,5cm long and is just enough to reach the front panel screws.
My board looks the same as this one from August 2025, so it might be a revision 0.15.
A first (unplugged) resistance check with the multimeter on all the power lines showed no obvious short (tested lines +15V, -15V, 11.8V, 11V, +5.8V, -5.8V, 3.3V, 1.8V and 0.9V).
I believe the next step will be a live (plugged-in) test to check if all those lines actually reach their indicated voltages when powered on. Any advice from people experienced in electronics on what to check is welcome.
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I think I've reached my limit as to where I'm able to check this on my own.Have a look around for "F" marked components on the PCB.
There's a new fashion some using some "recoverable" SMD type fuses which are not recoverable at all at the end of the day
If you find any check them for continuity. That's where I would start along with the basic voltage tests.
I guess you tried the usual, different ports, different PC, unistall/install fresh, etc.I think I've reached my limit as to where I'm able to check this on my own.
I mostly used the available testing spots on the board for the different voltage rails.
15V: no obvious short, measures fine at actual 15.1V.
+/-15V no obvious short, but also doesn't come to live.
+/-5.8V no obvious short, but also doesn't come to live.
0.9V, 1.8V, and 3.3V: no obvious shorts, measure fine only in firmware update mode. In normal mode 1.8V and 3.3V hang at around 0.8V and 0.9V stays at basically 0V.
11.8V: no obvious short, measures fine at actual 11.44V.
5V: no obvious short, rail measures only 4.3V (which oddly seems to be by design if you check the buck converter section).
Booting into firmware update mode sometimes tries to power the USB on, but doesn't really work. This happens in those moments where the display backlight also turns on, but nothing else happens (nothing is displayed). This only happens in like 1 out of 6 firmware update mode attempts.
View attachment 544241
USB not working is a downstream effect of whatever else is wrong with the unit. It doesn't need USB, as it's not a USB powered unit.I guess you tried the usual, different ports, different PC, unistall/install fresh, etc.
A good idea would also be to erase all the entries at device manager (including/specially) the hidden ones, damn XMOS creates a new one every time someone is changing ports.
What's weird is that the port is attempting power cycles as if it's shorting and recovering.