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Topping DX5 II

Remind me of what exactly stopped working correctly? Did the SE and XLR HPA outputs still work normally?
One day left channel started to crackling/popping on XLR output with Arya Stealth, then left channel volume lowered.
Tried with Arya Stealth on 4.4 and same.
Next tried Focal Elegia on 4.4 and last tried B&W P7 on SE output and same.
Power off/on and then no sound on left channel.
Then tried same headphones on Qdelix 5k and all have dead or malfunction left channel.
Contacted with Topping and they confirmed a malfunction in some initial batches that can cause this scenario and they told me they would pay for the repair of the headphones.
But a few days later they told me they wouldn't pay until I sent the DX5 II to China and, after checking it, they determined that this was the real cause.
 
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It seems as though different Amazon sellers are having different customer experiences. My seller is the lowest product star rating there. Hifi College is the highest atm. Having said that, I don't believe Topping itself is having a batch issue. Like I said before, my one that arrived with muddy lows in the left ear was only one firmware rev behind the latest rev. My replacement was several revs behind the latest (so older batch) and came working flawlessly even after I updated firmware to the latest rev.
 
What is the actual audible difference between SPDIF mode 1 or 2, and what instances would you pick one over the other? None of the devices I've had have ever had this option.
Anyone get back to you on this? I swear with option 1 (high performance) the separation and soundstage is better than on 2 where it starts to sound a bit muddled. It still sounds good, but just curious if I’m imagining it and looking for some other people’s ears on this.
 
Anyone get back to you on this? I swear with option 1 (high performance) the separation and soundstage is better than on 2 where it starts to sound a bit muddled. It still sounds good, but just curious if I’m imagining it and looking for some other people’s ears on this.

Not exactly. Mode 1 is what I've stuck with because Mode 2 exhibits a stutter every few minutes (which is normal -- one mode will work perfectly fine, and the other will not), but I had not detected any difference in the sound quality between the two modes.
 
Not exactly. Mode 1 is what I've stuck with because Mode 2 exhibits a stutter every few minutes (which is normal -- one mode will work perfectly fine, and the other will not), but I had not detected any difference in the sound quality between the two modes.
Thanks! I need to just enjoy it in the mode that removes stutter and try to not think about it much. It sounds fantastic, just that stupid part of the brain that swears the setting affects the audio quality
 
Cirrus Logic has always been a big player in the PC and in general the audio market. Toppings original D30 from more than a decade ago was using a CS4398. I think they mostly just shrunk those chips while improving them and made them for the portable market.
My 2017 Topping D30 still works great.
Thanks! I need to just enjoy it in the mode that removes stutter and try to not think about it much. It sounds fantastic, just that stupid part of the brain that swears the setting affects the audio quality
My guess is it is related to DPLL.

The DPLL (Digital Phase-Locked Loop) DAC setting adjusts the bandwidth of the clock recovery circuit to balance audio signal stability against jitter rejection. Lower settings improve sound quality by reducing jitter but may cause pops or drops with unstable sources, while higher settings ensure a stable connection.
 
My 2017 Topping D30 still works great.

My guess is it is related to DPLL.

The DPLL (Digital Phase-Locked Loop) DAC setting adjusts the bandwidth of the clock recovery circuit to balance audio signal stability against jitter rejection. Lower settings improve sound quality by reducing jitter but may cause pops or drops with unstable sources, while higher settings ensure a stable connection.
My Topping D30 still works great as well!
 
My 2017 Topping D30 still works great.

My guess is it is related to DPLL.

The DPLL (Digital Phase-Locked Loop) DAC setting adjusts the bandwidth of the clock recovery circuit to balance audio signal stability against jitter rejection. Lower settings improve sound quality by reducing jitter but may cause pops or drops with unstable sources, while higher settings ensure a stable connection.

Is there ever an instance where both modes function without any stutter for someone? How does one ensure they aren't using unstable sources?
 
Is there ever an instance where both modes function without any stutter for someone? How does one ensure they aren't using unstable sources?
I need to check firmware tonight. I get an occasional drop out even with USB and the audio got really distorted last night using it on PS5. I think the UAC1 setting doesn’t function properly.

I really love the way this thing sounds, but it’s starting to look like it’s too much of a hassle to keep.
 
I need to check firmware tonight. I get an occasional drop out even with USB and the audio got really distorted last night using it on PS5. I think the UAC1 setting doesn’t function properly.

I really love the way this thing sounds, but it’s starting to look like it’s too much of a hassle to keep.

I think someone else mentioned something about UAC1. I don't use UAC1, so I would not have come across that issue myself.
 
Is there ever an instance where both modes function without any stutter for someone? How does one ensure they aren't using unstable sources?
Could try lowering data/samplerate to 44.1khz or 48khz. idk.
Shorter/up to spec data cables if that is part of the issue.
 
After a month-long RMA process, I finally got my replacement DX5 II in. It was one that decided it could no longer turn on. Would show the topping logo, click, and restart.

NIB replacement, came with the most recent firmware. We'll see how long it lasts. Hopefully longer than the 4 months of light use the previous one lasted.
 
Only just connecting and testing this DAC now, to my Drop AAA789 (no dedicated trigger input).
Trying to find out the best settings, hard to search here if can't expand a topic to view all pages.

Thinking it's vol 100%, preamp mode, gain high, output option ticked = All, HPA ALL, LO ALL, and perhaps save as C1 on the remote?

Wouldn't mind sussing the app, and try to set up a few headphone profiles. I guess I can use Peace, not buying AutoEQ.
Although that doesn't work for Hi-Res as you need to use (Tidal) in exclusive mode. Sounds like the topping (and my ADI2FS) could apply it at the hardware level?

Cheers,
 
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Here a happy new user of the DX5 II! Mac --> Tidal HiFi exclusive mode --> DX5 II as pre over LO SE. Even with desktop speakers (Edifier M60) I am impressed and soon I will add a headphone for ultimate please. Looking forward to that! Very happy with my first purchase based on ASR.
 
What color are the DX5 IIs that are having issues? I mostly see white or silver ones I haven’t seen a black one with problems. Also, as far as I understand, there doesn’t seem to be an issue unless the 4.4mm output is used.
 
What color are the DX5 IIs that are having issues? I mostly see white or silver ones I haven’t seen a black one with problems. Also, as far as I understand, there doesn’t seem to be an issue unless the 4.4mm output is used.
Mine was black and yes, issue with 4.4mm.
 
Mine was black and yes, issue with 4.4mm.
Does the firmware update not fix the issue either? I’m wondering if the 4.4mm problem might be related to hot-plugging while the unit is powered on. If the cable is connected once while the device is off and left plugged in, is there still a risk of failure?
 
I believe it's poor protection causing hot plugging to destroy the amp. Firmware has nothing to do with that. And for the case of bricked units (can't launch software) I bet it's another hardware failure - the flash chip itself could've gone bad.
 
Not exactly. Mode 1 is what I've stuck with because Mode 2 exhibits a stutter every few minutes (which is normal -- one mode will work perfectly fine, and the other will not), but I had not detected any difference in the sound quality between the two modes.
Hello, i assume you are using SPDIF not from PC?
If the source is PC.. I figured, with USB you get access to Topping Tune and Dolby Atmos for Headphones so there is no reason to use SPDIF at all?
 
Hello, i assume you are using SPDIF not from PC?
If the source is PC.. I figured, with USB you get access to Topping Tune and Dolby Atmos for Headphones so there is no reason to use SPDIF at all?
Unless you're using toslink to solve a ground noise issue - but then a USB isolator would be another option, if slightly more expensive.
 
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