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Topping DX1 II DAC & HP Amp Review

Rate this DAC & HP Amp

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 13 4.8%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 11 4.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 38 14.0%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 210 77.2%

  • Total voters
    272
My unit arrived today, I really like all the features, but the clicking noise produced by the RCA output when i play songs with different sample rates is driving me crazy! My S.M.S.L SU1 doesn´t have this issue.

With the headphones i don´t hear any noise. Can you confirm if this also happens with the balanced line out?
 
Been dailying the DX1 II for a week now. Using balanced HP out to HD 600 headphones. No issues so far on latest firmware.
My only complaint is the volume knob doesn't feel good at all to turn. It's very clunky and has too high resistance to turning in my opinion.
 
Using the latest firmware on a Mac mini M2 running macOS Sequoia 15.7.5, the random pops and clicks still occur when the DAC is set to UAC 2.0 mode. Sometimes it can go 15 minutes without a single one, then suddenly produce three in a row. I've even heard them while nothing was playing and the system was completely silent.

However, I discovered that they don't occur at all in UAC 1.0 mode. That limits the DAC to 24-bit/48 kHz, but since I mainly use it for mixing and mastering, that limitation isn't really an issue for me.

The only downside is that I think I can hear a slight difference in sound quality between the two modes, UAC 2.0 seems to have a bit more bass extension and a slightly wider stereo image.

Overall, I'm very disappointed with this device.
 
Do the clicks happen when using optical input? That's what I use and I haven't heard any.
 
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Using the latest firmware on a Mac mini M2 running macOS Sequoia 15.7.5, the random pops and clicks still occur when the DAC is set to UAC 2.0 mode. Sometimes it can go 15 minutes without a single one, then suddenly produce three in a row. I've even heard them while nothing was playing and the system was completely silent.

I'm also on Sequoia and using UAC 2.0. The random clicks disappeared for in the last two updates.

I'm running it at 48k but if I look at Audio MIDI setup the device is running at 32bit instead of 24 bit.
 
I'm also on Sequoia and using UAC 2.0. The random clicks disappeared for in the last two updates.

I'm running it at 48k but if I look at Audio MIDI setup the device is running at 32bit instead of 24 bit.
They happen to me in both 24-bit and 32-bit mode, at every sample rate I've tested, and with every audio player I've tried (IINA, VLC, Chrome while watching Netflix or YouTube, etc.).
I should mention that I use SoundSource for per-app volume control and audio processing (FabFilter Pro-Q 4 to EQ my headphones and the Apple Audio Unit Compressor while watching Netflix to control dynamics).
I'll try disabling SoundSource and see if the issue still occurs.
 
I also use SoundSource to EQ headphones and other duties. What version are you using? I'm on 5.9.0.

I hoped the DX1 II would allow me to ditch SoundSource for EQ but the Home Topping app is way too clunky.
 
They happen to me in both 24-bit and 32-bit mode, at every sample rate I've tested, and with every audio player I've tried (IINA, VLC, Chrome while watching Netflix or YouTube, etc.)
So you mean just different Software players all coming from the same host?

Try different OS, hardware, a firmware based streamer, RaspberryPi etc
 
I detected clicking sounds, but only under certain conditions. And one of the reasons is my favorite way of holding an inactive input in an active state.

The main music source is RPI5/Moode/CamillaDSP. But the DAC is also connected to the TV, and I often switch between different inputs on the fly. The Kamilla DSP has advanced data flow control and helped me understand the cause.

1. I'm listening to music via USB at 44100. There are no problems. The statistics in the CDSP are stable: State: RUNNING Capt. samplerate: 44100.

2. I switch to the optical TV input. The TV operates at 48 kHz. The USB input remains active. The CDSP statistics start flashing. The "RUNNING" message regularly disappears, and 44100 changes to 48000. As far as I remember, the DAC uses two crystals with two base frequencies, and switching the crystal from 44100 to 48000 results in unstable reception of 44100 data via USB.

3. I switch back to the USB input, but the problem persists. The messages in the CDSP flicker, and clicking sounds are heard regularly. Pausing and resuming playback resolves the issue. All pipelines restart at 44100, and everything works reliably again.

4. Solution. One of them. I resample all music on the fly to 96 kHz. Then the base remains the same, 48 kHz, and no synchronization disruptions occur when switching inputs. The RPI5 easily handles even other-base resampling. Why 96 and not 48? To move sampling filters far beyond the limits of human hearing and stop thinking about them.
 
Well, it turns out my problem was a PICNIC problem (Problem In Chair, Not In Computer... or device, in this case).

I have spent a time on an audio community where one of the YouTubers mentioned that this DAC was a bit lacking in transient response with demanding headphones, at least on a Mac. According to him, the Mac's USB ports only provide 5 V / 500 mA, and using a USB-C Y cable with separate power and data connections solved the issue.

So I bought one of those cables (an iBasso model) and paired it with a 20 W Apple charger, which is capable of supplying 5 V / 1 A, the exact requirement specified for the DAC. I don't know if it was my power strip (it's a good-quality one connected to a UPS) or something else, but there seemed to be an issue with the external power delivery. I also tried two other chargers (a UGREEN GaN and a generic one), and both exhibited the same problem.

As soon as I connected the DAC directly to one of the Thunderbolt 4 ports on my Mac mini M2 using a single USB 4 cable, the clicks and pops disappeared completely (well ... 3h this past Sunday and 1h today).

My mistake for getting so fixated on using the Y-cable setup instead of trying the simplest possible test first.

P.S. I'd also like to mention that although macOS System Information reports that the Mac mini is only supplying 5 V / 500 mA, it actually provides up to the full 5 V / 1 A the DAC requires depending on the headphones and how hard you push it. I verified this with my ARCELI FNB58 USB power meter. It seems that System Information only displays the base values negotiated between the USB port and the device, not the actual current being delivered.

Happy now :)
 
Note you could use even a 5A USB supply, no such thing as "too much" current at the PSU power source, the sink device only PULLs what it needs.
 
Note you could use even a 5A USB supply, no such thing as "too much" current at the PSU power source, the sink device only PULLs what it needs.
DX1 II shall never pull more than 1A current, due to its internal design, so 5V x 1A power supply is all it may need. For normal listening levels (up to 95dB SPL), even for low impedance headphones, 500mA shall be absolutely enough as well. I would rather take care of as little noise as possible from PSU / USB port, whatever you use to power it. And no - not "Y" cable with one of those cheap power banks with "clean battery" and crappy psu inside ;-)
 
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Yes I was just commenting for those that likely already have a powerful enough PSU but might think lower amperes might somehow be "better"
 
Topping should combine DX1 ii and Mini 300 into a killer amp with digital inputs. A much better Aiyima A80 minus the screen plus a HPF.
 
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I also use SoundSource to EQ headphones and other duties. What version are you using? I'm on 5.9.0.

I hoped the DX1 II would allow me to ditch SoundSource for EQ but the Home Topping app is way too clunky.
Have to use Topping Home for firmware and adding the 3 profiles, as Topping Tune seems abandoned. Beyond that I have dropped it.

For my Mac I have found iQualize which covers my needs - that's where I use (as planned) the DX1 II, and I don't use it elsewhere. iQualize is in version 0.60 and as such not fully matured, but I have been able to get the sound I want from HD650, and it works fine with my bt buds too - to the extent it is possible to get something good out of them.

iQualize is native (swift) and doesn't require "kernel addons", it just taps into MacOS sound subsystem natively without the need for additional drivers. Although my security software doesn't ring a bell, I don't vouch for security and so on, but the code can be examined as it is opensource (MIT). Don't believe there's a need for manual intervention and cleanup when uninstalling contrary to a number of external apps for MacOS. Seems like the Bavarian developer is speaking the truth when he argues MacOS EQ done right.

The app is unsigned thus terminal and: xattr -dr com.apple.quarantine /Applications/iQualize.app
Have had to grant new permissions (system settings - Privacy & Security - Allow applications from) when updating.


I believe it deserves a slot in the ASR EQ hall of fame. Hopefully the competent ASR crowd will have a go at it and give it some love - or put my recommendation into shame.

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I do have a beef with every vendor feeling the need to tap into whicever peripheral I have actually purchased and in fact owns, like Samsung with my T5 ssd, Logitech with their perverse "suite" Logi Options +, and now Topping with Topping Home. There was a big thing the other week where connecting a LG monitor to a Windows PC got Windows promoting some sort of anti virus manure - "Smart" monitors is a trend which started with Samsung "Smart" and Apple monitors. A few sweeteners for the customer and people eats that shite like they/we do for smartphones, tv, cars, Macs and PCs.

Was on the verge of purchasing a Wiim Amp Ultra which technically appears brilliant for my needs, but I changed my mind when I checked their data collection regime. That's how no USB sound IN makes sense by the way, I think.

As for DX1 II (or DX5 II for that matter), not only do I have to use a Google based browser to provide HID access, but I have to install the web app too. And for that to work, I have to make a Google based browser default. Which I never will.

You are right indeed, Topping Home is awkward (I prefer the term crap), and the right way to do this is to have a native app where the only contact with Topping Corp is when I manually (as I do - or auto as other people may prefer) check for updates to the application or firmware for the DAC. That's the only interaction with Topping I need carried out. Topping has plenty of DACs in their development department and should know enough about what is good, what is nice and what's not. They should not have to tap into (or whatever they do, it's outside my and customers control) to make it right. Until RUST matures they could have used QT and provided native apps for anything from Mac/Windows/Linux/Android/Sailfish/iOS to the dacs (embedded), even cars, and LG tv (WebOS has the same grandma as Sailfish).

Whatever it is, it's just a DAC, just keyboard and mice, and just an external SSD for backup, and there is no justification whatsoever for the vendors getting any info from these mundaine low level units.

Topping can only do this if their customers let them, and the customers really shouldn't. As for the DX1 II proper, it works and it is great for my usage scenario. Just what I wanted and need.
 
As for DX1 II (or DX5 II for that matter), not only do I have to use a Google based browser to provide HID access, but I have to install the web app too. And for that to work, I have to make a Google based browser default. Which I never will.
The Topping web updater works fine for me without making Chrome my default browser, and there's a beta version of the web-based firmware updater that doesn't require the ancillary Mac app. Still have to use a Chromium-based browser, but that's it.
 
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