Topping D90SE Review (Balanced DAC)

[staticV3]

I updated my D90se to firmware 1.88 some time ago, and I’m experiencing this issue with optical cutouts when connected to my LG TV. However, firmware 1.87 is no longer available to downgrade and fix the problem. What should I do?

Is there a Bandwidth setting in the D90se's Setup Menu?
If so, try increasing it.

 

[xaon60]

no bandwidth settings in the menu, nothing to do with optics. No problem with bluetooth

 

[Abekat]

Firmware 1.87, merry christmas! ho ho ho

 

[xaon60]

It’s working properly now! Thank you !!!

What could be causing these interruptions with the 1.88?

 

[yellowshark]

If you received Ver1.88 from Topping, you can install it without any problem.
If something goes wrong, you can reinstall the original Ver1.87 immediately.

Deleted as I oversaw the other posting with the 1.87 version. Thanks for that!

 

[voodooless]

does anyone know where to still find the 1.87 version?

Topping D90SE Review (Balanced DAC)

The user manual says 100 ohms on both: Are you thinking about driving headphones directly with the line level outputs?

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[yellowshark]

Thanks Voodooless!

 

[damieneo]

Yes, all inputs. The audio will play for a while and then cuts off at random intervals. Switching different ports on different computers or laptop yielded the same results. Bummer, since the D90SE and A90 stack were not in use that often compared to the DX7 Pro. At first I was considering buying the newer D90 III Sabre or Discrete but considering the hefty price to pay, would be a problem if they started developing problems after their 1 year warranty expires. Would have expected a bit more longetivity.

This is weird. After a few months putting away what I thought was a defective unit of the D90SE, I took it out again from storage, plugged it in and rechecked it. AND it played perfectly fine! Been using it now for 2 weeks. The issue I had with intermittent dropouts - non-existent. Different sources, different inputs - all seems working fine now. Scratching my head, wondering what was wrong earlier. Happy that it is now working fine snd back to being my main DAC unit for work and leisure.

 

[Rja4000]

Hi everyone! I have a Topping D90LE and I really like its sound quality, but I recently ran into an issue: when working with large orchestral templates in Reaper (400+ VST tracks (lol), using Kontakt and other plugins), the sound started crackling and dropping out. I switched to a MOTU M2 and noticed that the interface performs much better (less crackling and fewer artifacts) with the same buffer settings. Eventually, increasing the "Render-ahead" value in Reaper helped solve the issue.

Now I'm thinking of buying an RME UCX II. Since the MOTU M2 already performs better under these conditions, I assume that a higher-end interface like the RME UCX II will perform even better, right?

And here’s my main question: I want to connect the D90LE to the RME UCX II via AES to get both the stable RME drivers and the high-quality sound from the D90LE. Is this a good idea? Does anyone have experience with such a setup? Will I run into any sound degradation when connecting the D90 via AES?

Thanks!

It's likely that the Topping's (basic) ASIO USB driver is more sensitive to PC load or adding some load to the system.
The RME driver is lightweight and super stable.

So yes, going through the RME to send signal to the Topping should help (but may add some latency).
Now, why not to use a RME directly ?
Or replace the Topping by a RME ADI-2 DAC or Pro ?

 

[FERCSA]

- My main monitors don’t have TRS inputs, only XLR, and the UCX II doesn’t have XLR outputs. So I’ll need either an adapter or a TRS-to-XLR cable.

Just get an adapter or TRS-XLR cable.
I always made my own cables so I know it's good quality. If you have steady hands and soldering equipments then go for it.

I’ve also considered the ADI-2/4 Pro SE and the ADI-2 Pro FS R Black Edition:

- Both are more expensive than the UCX II
- They have more features than I actually need
- Since they’re converters only, I’m wondering how well they’re optimized for handling large projects. I feel like the UCX II is better suited for writing and mixing big projects, even if I don’t record anything live.
- And from what I understand, the sound quality difference between them and the D90LE is minimal?
- As for the headphone amp — I already have the Topping A90 Discrete, and I’m not really interested in their headphone output, so that would be an unnecessary extra for me

You're making music. I would ditch the toppings and get a UCXII. You'll make your chain simpler and let's not forget Totalmix is a life changer.
Look I was in the same limbo like you. I had a D90SE then I switched to the UCXII. No audible difference. There is a minimal measurable difference but way over the human threshold.
The tipping point for me was that I can use it as a standalone device without a PC. Not your case but it was a huge plus for me.

 

[Rja4000]

Yes, it seems that’s the case. Especially when Reaper pushes the CPU usage over 30%
, it becomes impossible to listen to audio from other apps through the D90LE — there's crackling, lag, and other artifacts.

Then you probably need a stronger computer for your project, anyway.

- My main monitors don’t have TRS inputs, only XLR, and the UCX II doesn’t have XLR outputs. So I’ll need either an adapter or a TRS-to-XLR cable.

A cable is all you'd need.

- As far as I understand, the D90LE has better sound quality than the converter in the UCX II, right?

Measurably, yes.
Audibly, it's non significant if you use it properly.

I’ve also considered the ADI-2/4 Pro SE and the ADI-2 Pro FS R Black Edition:
- Both are more expensive than the UCX II
- They have more features than I actually need

The ADI-2 DAC - without the D90LE - is another option. It doesn't have digital output, but technical quality is up there.
It's a good flexible DAC for a control room.

- Since they’re converters only, I’m wondering how well they’re optimized for handling large projects. I feel like the UCX II is better suited for writing and mixing big projects, even if I don’t record anything live.

Mixing and effects are done by your computer.
The ADI-2 serie driver is the exact same than the 802fs, UFX II or UFX III.
You may delegate some mixing task to the UCX II Totalmix, of course, but that will complicate your workflow.

- And from what I understand, the sound quality difference between them and the D90LE is minimal?

It will be null, probably.

- As for the headphone amp — I already have the Topping A90 Discrete, and I’m not really interested in their headphone output, so that would be an unnecessary extra for me

Your setup would be simpler, with less boxes.
And saling back the 2 Topping may give you back some money.

If you are doing that regularly, you may want to invest in a device that will make your life easier.
A simpler setup may help you increase your productivity.

 

[twister2005]

Thank you always ASR.
And congratulations to Mr. JohnYang1997 & TOPPING team!
View attachment 137178

Sadly, my unit popped on startup. It's out of warranty, so I'm trying a DIY repair. Looks like a fried SMD component, but I can't tell what it is. Any ideas? Diode? Ferrite bead? Something else

 

[Svperstar]

Sadly, my unit popped on startup. It's out of warranty, so I'm trying a DIY repair. Looks like a fried SMD component, but I can't tell what it is. Any ideas? Diode? Ferrite bead? Something else

Dang. This is why I went with the RME ADI-2. If you box it up and ship it to Germany they will fix it even if it's out if warranty. Or so I've heard. Mines been working fine for years.

 

[Roland68]

Sadly, my unit popped on startup. It's out of warranty, so I'm trying a DIY repair. Looks like a fried SMD component, but I can't tell what it is. Any ideas? Diode? Ferrite bead? Something else

Do not connect the device to the mains power supply under any circumstances.

If you have a multimeter, please check the two solder contacts of the defective component for a short circuit/continuity.

Then remove the component and clean the contact points and the area between them.

Next, please check the fuse in the mains connection and replace it if necessary.

Then you can test whether the device works again.

The component is likely a capacitor, probably ceramic or tantalum. The device should also work without it for testing purposes.

 

[Roland68]

Sadly, my unit popped on startup. It's out of warranty, so I'm trying a DIY repair. Looks like a fried SMD component, but I can't tell what it is. Any ideas? Diode? Ferrite bead? Something else

The component looks very badly damaged.

Before you connect it, could you please post a good-resolution picture of the entire circuit board?

 

[twister2005]

Do not connect the device to the mains power supply under any circumstances.

If you have a multimeter, please check the two solder contacts of the defective component for a short circuit/continuity.

Then remove the component and clean the contact points and the area between them.

Next, please check the fuse in the mains connection and replace it if necessary.

Then you can test whether the device works again.

The component is likely a capacitor, probably ceramic or tantalum. The device should also work without it for testing purposes.

I've already done that. I figured it should run without it (it’s in parallel), but it still won’t start.
It measures around 40 ohms both with and without the component. The fuse is fine. Looks like the damage went further into the circuit.
Detailed pictures of the PCB you can find in quoted answer.

 

[nagster]

Sadly, my unit popped on startup. It's out of warranty, so I'm trying a DIY repair. Looks like a fried SMD component, but I can't tell what it is. Any ideas? Diode? Ferrite bead? Something else

I'm not sure. Generally, if you only replace the damaged parts or fuses without identifying the cause, the damage may become worse.
If you had a circuit diagram, some smart people might be able to give you some clues, but it would be difficult to obtain one.
What kind of response have you received from your dealer or TOPPING?