That would explain why replacement displays are so readily available.
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Topping D90 Balanced USB DAC Review
- Thread starter amirm
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MQA is not a Tidal invention, there is a LOT of information on the debacle and scam that is MQA. A simple google search will surely inundate you with reading material if you are truly interested.
It isn't really a "thing" anymore, but there is still a lot of material available to stream that has been encoded with it, unfortunately. That's why, unfortunately, it would be better to have MQA full decoding available to you so that you can listen to if if you wish with the best SQ possible.
Jimster480
Major Contributor
Yep, I was going to say that on Tidal there are still plenty of songs that are MQA. They were converting some of them and I believe that all new "Master Quality" are purely FLAC but many of the older ones still remain as MQA. Just found that out like a month ago when I played an older album I liked.
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And if you like you jam music and subscribe to Nugs.net you might find that a LOT of artists have fallen for the scam and had a LOT of their shows encoded in MQA. I really hope they saved the original versions...
Jimster480
Major Contributor
It doesn't really surprise me that many people fell for it, because on the surface, it looks quite good, and if you are not a highly technical individual, then you just see better sound quality for less memory used, and you go for it.
There were a few softwares for recording that were automatically doing MQA as well when you put it in the highest quality, so, again, that doesn't surprise me at all, and I bet that's how a lot of the music ended up in MQA in the first place.
D90 OLED display replacement... TLDR: Does it work? Yes. Can I replace it myself? Yes, provided you're careful.
Tools required: H2 screwdriver, needle nose pliers.
Experience required: Little. Maybe avoid if a complete newbie or a known klutz but if you have any experience tinkering with electronics you'll be fine.
First, unplug everything ensuring the power cord is disconnected.
Then flip it over to reveal six H2 screws on the bottom, the two inner most screws secure the PCB in place while the outer four secure the front panel in place, those outer four are the one's we want to remove.
^ Those marked in red secure the front panel
Then you need to gently pull on the front panel just enough to dislodge it. Once it pops out the only thing connecting it to the rest of the DAC is a small ribbon cable, you need to disconnect this from the front panel end... This is done by gently lifting the black bar which acts as a locking actuator, once that is released the ribbon cable will simply pull out. The whole time you're doing this you need to maintain careful support of both parts, if one falls, the weight of it pulling on the cable will damage it.
Now you will have a completely detached front panel...
To release the PCB, first take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently straighten the 4 metal tabs, then unscrew all six H2 screws, this will allow the PCB and front panel to separate. Now you can remove the aluminium display cover/shield, it simply pulls through with those straightened retaining tabs, if there is resistance check they are 100% straight as any fouling will prevent it from being removed.
Next you need to disconnect the OLED display ribbon cable, this actuator is different to the previous one and requires you to flip the black bar upwards (it's on a hinge) to release the cable.
Now you need to install the new display and put it back together which is everything you just did, but in reverse order.
Old on the left vs new on the right.
The end result is a superbly bright and legible display.
Tools required: H2 screwdriver, needle nose pliers.
Experience required: Little. Maybe avoid if a complete newbie or a known klutz but if you have any experience tinkering with electronics you'll be fine.
First, unplug everything ensuring the power cord is disconnected.
Then flip it over to reveal six H2 screws on the bottom, the two inner most screws secure the PCB in place while the outer four secure the front panel in place, those outer four are the one's we want to remove.
^ Those marked in red secure the front panel
Then you need to gently pull on the front panel just enough to dislodge it. Once it pops out the only thing connecting it to the rest of the DAC is a small ribbon cable, you need to disconnect this from the front panel end... This is done by gently lifting the black bar which acts as a locking actuator, once that is released the ribbon cable will simply pull out. The whole time you're doing this you need to maintain careful support of both parts, if one falls, the weight of it pulling on the cable will damage it.
Now you will have a completely detached front panel...
To release the PCB, first take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently straighten the 4 metal tabs, then unscrew all six H2 screws, this will allow the PCB and front panel to separate. Now you can remove the aluminium display cover/shield, it simply pulls through with those straightened retaining tabs, if there is resistance check they are 100% straight as any fouling will prevent it from being removed.
Next you need to disconnect the OLED display ribbon cable, this actuator is different to the previous one and requires you to flip the black bar upwards (it's on a hinge) to release the cable.
Now you need to install the new display and put it back together which is everything you just did, but in reverse order.
Old on the left vs new on the right.
The end result is a superbly bright and legible display.
It's currently doing double duty as a digital preamp as well, sounds perfect to me... I simply cannot fathom what could be improved beyond this. When the D90III is eventually £250 second hand I'll grab one and find out
Yes, that's the one.
Replaced. Worked like charm. Now it is brighter than the Pre90's display! Is it the same display? But, IIRC, opening the Pre90 is a bit more complicated.
It would be a 10 minutes job if it were not for the little sponges on the back of the display, which must be either removed and regaled or replaced. And removing them from the older display destroys them or leaves some of it attached. Then, the new display does not properly stay in place. So you need a little solution for that: I used a couple of little felt pads on the board to ensure the "reduced" sponges keep the display in place.
It would be a 10 minutes job if it were not for the little sponges on the back of the display, which must be either removed and regaled or replaced. And removing them from the older display destroys them or leaves some of it attached. Then, the new display does not properly stay in place. So you need a little solution for that: I used a couple of little felt pads on the board to ensure the "reduced" sponges keep the display in place.
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I used a razor blade to remove them, they came right off with adhesive still attached so I was able to reuse them, probably varies unit to unit but good catch, I would edit my post above to mention them but that feature isn't enabled on this forum sadly.
Been enjoying this DAC, have no complaints at all other than the display... Not a huge fan of the white text so I ordered a sample pack of Selens lighting filters, going to install one in front of the OLED, just need to decide on a colour first...
I'm leaning towards amber or turquoise, both reminiscent of late 80s early 90s hifi... The amber being heavily used by Yamaha and the turquoise by Marantz
What's your pick?
I'm leaning towards amber or turquoise, both reminiscent of late 80s early 90s hifi... The amber being heavily used by Yamaha and the turquoise by Marantz
What's your pick?
Turquoise if you’re distant and amber if you’re mostly near-field.
VientoB
Major Contributor
Good idea. I like red/orangeBeen enjoying this DAC, have no complaints at all other than the display... Not a huge fan of the white text so I ordered a sample pack of Selens lighting filters, going to install one in front of the OLED, just need to decide on a colour first...
I'm leaning towards amber or turquoise, both reminiscent of late 80s early 90s hifi... The amber being heavily used by Yamaha and the turquoise by Marantz
What's your pick?
I think I read it, or I thought about the same solution on my own–but I was scared to go with a razor blade there, I did not want to risk damaging the display (with all likelihood it is more resistant than I feared, but why risk?)
In my case the old display was completely faulty so there was no concern of damaging it as I was going to throw it away anyway.
As previously mentioned I'd narrowed it down to two colours, either Yamaha style orange or Marantz aqua... I lived with both for several days before deciding, leaving the film leaning against the DAC as pictured above.
Just as laserjock said, the orange is better nearfield and the aqua distant... I suppose that's why plane cockpit and car dash instrument panels are mostly orange. Only thing is I like to have the display set at the lowest brightness (less of a distraction and preserves the OLED a little longer) and at this low level the orange didn't have enough clarity requiring a proper look rather than a cursory glance so for convenience aqua wins
If any one is interested these are the films: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001291793996.html
Just as laserjock said, the orange is better nearfield and the aqua distant... I suppose that's why plane cockpit and car dash instrument panels are mostly orange. Only thing is I like to have the display set at the lowest brightness (less of a distraction and preserves the OLED a little longer) and at this low level the orange didn't have enough clarity requiring a proper look rather than a cursory glance so for convenience aqua wins
If any one is interested these are the films: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001291793996.html
You are right, but I did not know yet the new one was ok, so I wanted to be sure I could put the old one back while waiting for a replacement…
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