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Topping D10s USB DAC and Bridge Review

That seems wrong. Isn't it ~6dB/bit for linear PCM giving ~192dB?

You're right. That's what I get from doing a lazy late night Google seach instead of doing the math :facepalm::oops:

But yeah, 192dB dynamic range is still a hella lot.

Yes, the most SOTA DAC of today can't "even" resolve 24 bits, but it gets a lot worse when things become acoustic. If you want to find a listening room + speaker setup that lets you take advantage of the full 144dB dynamic range of 24 bit audio, all I can say is... good luck.
 
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MediumRare said:
The DAC already has all those things, all you need to add is the WiFi. As many have said, a raspberry pi costs $10 including a 1 ghz cpu. Come on

Well, I'll say it, I'm all about getting great sound at a democratic prices, everybody should be able to afford good performance, I'm guilty of this myself, I do own and enjoy a topping product myself, but let's not kid ourself, this doesn't represent the real cost of things, And I'm not saying this in a diminutive way, how Asian manufacturer are able to achieve that, sorry but the maths just don't add up, and it's kudos to them really, it's an achievement. I don't know where you find those prices. A Pi is not 10 bucks, the Arduino board you showed me don't have a full WIFI PHY, just the chip. The mad volumes of consumer electronics, when you think mad volumes I mean smartphone level volumes, millions, got us to think that electronics are worth a dime a chip, but it's all an illusion. For example try to built a D10 like this as DIY, and you'll come about 3-4 times that just for parts, you didn't do assembly, marketing, distributors, retailers margin, etc etc etc. Great that Topping and a few others have enough of a solid mass around their bones to offer these ridiculous prices, but sorry, fitting a pi or an arduino and support only open source softwares to provide streaming capabilities, will never bring enough volume to warrant a sub 300$ price tag, no way on earth even China. Those modules are geared to appeal DIY, tech oriented geeks. But even then, built it yourself, and you'll break that 3 bills treshold, I guarantee this. To make volume, you'll need branding, and to have branding, you need pretty design, you need User friendly Interface, you need huge marketing, not put that on top of your cost. Again, if someone could offer that for 150$ He would. I challenge anybody to find a way to reach the price points you mention, good luck.
Have “quality sound” through wifi or ethernet streaming included in a small box containing a DAC for 150 euros-dollars?
Apple opened the way 20 years ago with its first AirportExpress terminal, further improved with its second version: considering their release date, the performance was remarkable for the price and even in absolute terms, including on the analog output .

Apple was followed by other brands (which must have read you to take your word) also offered a quality Dac and a wifi streamer in the same box for a very low price and useful quality performance on their analog outputs and perfect on the digital output. Linkplay-Wiim and its Mini first, then its Wiim Pro model achieved this for a price ranging from 90 to 160 euros in 2020...

Note that the AE and the Wiim are produced by companies based on software... and that the traditional hifi companies based on hardware are jettisoned in the field of streaming and correction of speakers and rooms: they call on external companies to implement this in their devices: Audyssey, Dirac, Room perfect, etc.
 
MediumRare said:
The DAC already has all those things, all you need to add is the WiFi. As many have said, a raspberry pi costs $10 including a 1 ghz cpu. Come on


Have “quality sound” through wifi or ethernet streaming included in a small box containing a DAC for 150 euros-dollars?
Apple opened the way 20 years ago with its first AirportExpress terminal, further improved with its second version: considering their release date, the performance was remarkable for the price and even in absolute terms, including on the analog output .

Apple was followed by other brands (which must have read you to take your word) also offered a quality Dac and a wifi streamer in the same box for a very low price and useful quality performance on their analog outputs and perfect on the digital output. Linkplay-Wiim and its Mini first, then its Wiim Pro model achieved this for a price ranging from 90 to 160 euros in 2020...

Note that the AE and the Wiim are produced by companies based on software... and that the traditional hifi companies based on hardware are jettisoned in the field of streaming and correction of speakers and rooms: they call on external companies to implement this in their devices: Audyssey, Dirac, Room perfect, etc.

Can we please shift this conversation back to the Topping D10S as a USB DAC and bridge? The original comment on $10 pi was from Jul 22, 2020 (page 3 of this 51 page long thread).
 
Does anyone know how to get standby/sleep working on the D10s in Windows? The DAC itself works great, but the display never turns off in Windows. Closing the audio player, changing the current audio output device in Windows, disabling the D10s in the sound settings, no matter what it's always on and just displays whatever the last sample rate was.
 
Does anyone know how to get standby/sleep working on the D10s in Windows? The DAC itself works great, but the display never turns off in Windows. Closing the audio player, changing the current audio output device in Windows, disabling the D10s in the sound settings, no matter what it's always on and just displays whatever the last sample rate was.
I've struggled with this on a raspberry pi (moOde OS) with a D10s connected.
There the solution was to apply a command to stop the USB port where the D10s is connected to. And then it shuts down.
Not sure how to accomplish this on Windows but perhaps this gives you a lead....
 
piCorePlayer is a bit unusual - the file you created exists only in RAM. To survive a reboot you need to tell it that it needs to be saved. See https://docs.picoreplayer.org/projects/autostart-squeezelite-from-usb-dac/ for a similar udev rule.
https://forums.slimdevices.com/foru...unce-picoreplayer-8-0-0?p=1519874#post1519874 suggests there's an extra step needed - probably running an extra command at startup to reload the udev rules?
Hi friend,

I have tried to follow all the steps you have outlined and I cannot get the Topping D10S to go to sleep with picoreplayer+LMS on my raspberry pi.

Could you explain in more detail how you achieved it?

Thank you!
 
I've struggled with this on a raspberry pi (moOde OS) with a D10s connected.
There the solution was to apply a command to stop the USB port where the D10s is connected to. And then it shuts down.
Not sure how to accomplish this on Windows but perhaps this gives you a lead....
Hey thanks for the reply. I have tried this DAC on some linux systems (Linux PC, Raspbery Pi), and on both of those I was able to get it working using the info I found in this same thread here. So if I can't figure it out on Windows I'll just switch things around again, I have a bunch of DACs
 
Does anyone know how to get standby/sleep working on the D10s in Windows? The DAC itself works great, but the display never turns off in Windows. Closing the audio player, changing the current audio output device in Windows, disabling the D10s in the sound settings, no matter what it's always on and just displays whatever the last sample rate was.
Is the USB port selective suspend setting turned on in your PC's power saving settings?
 
Hi friend,

I have tried to follow all the steps you have outlined and I cannot get the Topping D10S to go to sleep with picoreplayer+LMS on my raspberry pi.

Could you explain in more detail how you achieved it?

Thank you!
I haven't tried doing exactly that. I was just pointing to general differences between piCorePlayer and conventional linux distros. I can probably try something similar with a bus powered Focusrite Forte if I find the time.
 
Hello, I need your help to get my D10B USB topping DAC working with my JBL 305P and my computer.

The connection is as follows:
PC ==> DAC with USB ==> JBL with 6.35mm jack

I installed the topping driver but nothing works...
I thought it would work as a USB headset, recognized by Windows, but it seems not...

I started looking into using foobar but without success...

I used the drivers available on the topping site, but nothing worked...

I just want to be able to play the sound from my computer ^^ quite simply

Thank you for your help!!

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I thought it would work as a USB headset, recognized by Windows, but it seems not...
This is how it's supposed to work.

Try opening the device manager, then plugging the D10B in and out of your PC.

Whenever you do that, the device manager's list of devices should flicker once to refresh.

If it does, try to find under which category it is listed and whether there are any warning symbols next to it indicating some sort of driver issue.

If you can't see any flicker/refresh, then your DAC is currently inoperable.

Potential causes are a bad USB cable, insufficient current from your PC's USB port, or a defective DAC.
 
Voilà comment cela est censé fonctionner.

Essayez d'ouvrir le gestionnaire de périphériques, puis de brancher et de débrancher le D10B de votre PC.

Chaque fois que vous faites cela, la liste des périphériques du gestionnaire de périphériques doit clignoter une fois pour s'actualiser.

Si c'est le cas, essayez de trouver dans quelle catégorie il est répertorié et s'il y a des symboles d'avertissement à côté indiquant un problème de pilote.

Si vous ne voyez aucun scintillement/rafraîchissement, votre DAC est actuellement inutilisable.

Les causes potentielles sont un câble USB défectueux, un courant insuffisant provenant du port USB de votre PC ou un DAC défectueux.
Thank you for your quick response!

This reassures me on the one hand that it is working properly...


Unfortunately I thought about the device list, but nothing happens...

the current delivered is normally sufficient, and I have tried from several computers and laptops...

I tried another cable with no success.



Unfortunately I think it is indeed defective... buy on Amazon second hand, it may not be a coincidence...

Do you have a good, not too expensive balanced dac to recommend? Where do I buy this new one?

I would have liked to connect my JBL 305P directly to the PC, unfortunately this causes a big hiss which amplifies depending on the games etc...
 
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Merci pour votre réponse rapide !

Cela me rassure d'une part sur le bon fonctionnement...


Malheureusement j'ai pensé à la liste des appareils, mais rien ne se passe...

le courant délivré est normalement suffisant, et j'ai essayé depuis plusieurs ordinateurs et portables...


Malheureusement je pense qu'il est effectivement défectueux... achetez sur Amazon d'occasion, ce n'est peut-être pas un hasard...

Avez-vous un bon dac symétrique pas trop cher à me conseiller ? Où acheter ce neuf ?

J'aurais aimé brancher ma JBL 305P directement au PC, malheureusement cela provoque un gros sifflement qui s'amplifie en fonction des jeux etc...
Please use English on ASR.

Also, try using another USB cable.
 
Sorry, Google's automatic translation function also translated my text which I had put in English!

I tried another cable but without success....
 
Sorry, Google's automatic translation function also translated my text which I had put in English!

I tried another cable but without success....
So then if the DAC is bad just return to amazon and get another one. It is clear that someone returned a broken one and now you have received it.
 
So then if the DAC is bad just return to amazon and get another one. It is clear that someone returned a broken one and now you have received it.
Yes clearly that’s what I’m going to do!

Now the question is: Get the same one new => 140 euros, where can I get another one?

My need is not great, just connect my speakers to my computer without the interference I currently have :D
 
Hello. This might be a dumb question. When connecting the D10s via USB to a computer and using the coaxial/spdif/toslink output for active speakers (Airpulse A300) and selecting the output in Windows Sound options on 24bit 192kHz (this will also show on the D10s) will files that I play at let's say 16bit 44.1kHz or 24bit 44.1kHz/48kHz cause quality loss? Will they convert to 192kHz does it affect quality? Or doesn't it matter? Or will the internal DAC of the active speakers still do whatever it needs to do? Or is it better to use the USB input of the active speakers with the designated windows driver?

I'm planning to use the coaxial/spdif/toslink output for the active speakers and RCA (or the second toslink to minidsp) for subwoofers.

Thank you.
 
When connecting the D10s via USB to a computer and using the coaxial/spdif/toslink output for active speakers (Airpulse A300) and selecting the output in Windows Sound options on 24bit 192kHz (this will also show on the D10s) will files that I play at let's say 16bit 44.1kHz or 24bit 44.1kHz/48kHz cause quality loss? Will they convert to 192kHz does it affect quality?
See this parallel discussion:

Now the question is: Get the same one new => 140 euros, where can I get another one?

My need is not great, just connect my speakers to my computer without the interference I currently have :D
I mean, there's always cheaper options if you absolutely insist. I'm running my onboard audio into a Behringer HD400 (cables: 1 pc. 3.5 mm to 2x TS, 2 pcs. TRS to XLR male). About 40 € and change all in with some half-decent cables. When I bought this setup I still had a "proper" soundcard with 2 Vrms output. Since the downgrade to onboard I'm getting a click every time my fridge turns off, but that's literally the only kind of interference I can hear and it's not particularly frequent. Recently I cranked the levels on my K+Hs all the way up when readjusting these and didn't even get an increase in hiss, so my dynamic range measurements (and ALC1200 specs) must be correct.

The next cheapest option would be a decent audio interface... those start at around 90€ new (e.g. the trusty 3rd gen Focusrite Scarlett Solo).
 
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