totti1965
Addicted to Fun and Learning
dB!W
What is the measurement unit for relaxed-ness of sound?![]()
Examples of use of 80 Hz Highpass:
dB!W
What is the measurement unit for relaxed-ness of sound?![]()
By zero db mode - you mean Vin = Vout yes?Hi everyone!
I am looking at this amp, but I want to use it in 0db mode. Crazy, I know, but that got me thinking: do I actually need a amp for that? Or could a simpler circuit do the same? I mean, would it be enough with a very low impedance buffer at the output of the DAC?
So really what you are talking about is distortion - and most people are more familiar with % rather than dB in that context.
The impedance curve is quite steep for an 8-ohm speaker.Hello,
Sharing my experience with a set of B100's driving KEF R5's (not meta): when played just a tad louder than my normal listening level, these little devils went into protection mode. For the data: I measured around 70 dB on my listening spot with an app when they blew, in a room of about 6,00m x 5,00m, opening at the back to stairs.
Just a reset revived them. It happesn everytime with a passage asking some more bass control (Tool, Chocolate Chip Trip, when the bassdrum kicks in for example, around 2:20).
Tried to see if it made a difference if I changed input gain setting (H/M/L) and also line output from my Wiim Ultra, to no avail. Also changed wiring: tried RCA>TRS first, also went from Wiim Ultra>USB>SMSL SU8.XLR>B100.TRS to get a balanced connection but same happened. So this is probably the <4ohm "trip"?
Performance when they were working was excellent, compared to a stereo PA5IIplus it seems cleaner on all fronts, a less stressed feel on my ears (yeah. I know. I was going to type "more black" here...oh now I did anyway) . ABX testing is hard, but I can switch the speaker cables pretty fast and repeat the same track again and every time I heard the same difference...but no science here. Som maybe it's just my ears & mind here playing tricks.
Anyway, I will return them and thought I'd share if any R5 owner wants to go the same way, here is a warning
Best alternative around same pricerange I can find is Audiophonics AS300-s250nc (https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/powe...ifier-ncore-nc252mp-2x250w-4-ohm-p-18419.html).
Would this be a better combination?
Have you tried enabling the WiiM's Sub output? (even if no sub is connected)I just tested with RCA>RCA connection, and I can play louder for longer, almost cancelled the return...until it happened again! Wiim Ultra on 800mV out, B100 gain on highest, playing Celestial Echo by Yello & Malia () on Tidal. Not at once, but somewhere during the first 1 or 2 minutes of the track the B100 "crashed". Luckily they don't ever crash with a big bang but gracefully, so no danger to the speakers. Return not cancelled...
Yes, Vin = Vout, with 4V on 4ohm speakers.By zero db mode - you mean Vin = Vout yes?
But here is your problem - lets assume your DAC puts out up to 2V with normal program material - 2V into 4 ohm speakers needs 500mA. So your low impedance buffer needs to deliver more than 500mA *without distorting* - perhaps as much as 1A if the speaker curve dips as low as two ohms. If by buffer you mean op amp, then that is not going to hack it.
In fact a power amp is exactly the low impedance buffer you need.
That is also one of my favorite songs, and i have played dozens of times the last three months without any problemsI just tested with RCA>RCA connection, and I can play louder for longer, almost cancelled the return...until it happened again! Wiim Ultra on 800mV out, B100 gain on highest, playing Celestial Echo by Yello & Maliaon Tidal.
I hope that it works fine for YouStatus at this moment: I'll by the Audiophonics AS300 NC252MP, which has a 10% discount even now since we ar ehaving black fridays here too (though no turkeys in ovens as much yet today).
www.audiosciencereview.com
Op amps don't have the output current capacity for 1A - unless you are talking about adding a power transistor stage as the output buffer from the op amp, with the feedback taken at the output of the transistor stage. But it would need to be a push pull output stage - or you would be putting DC on the speaker and break it. And what you have now built is - a power amp - albeit with low power capability. If you were going this way you'd be better thinking about using a dedicated low power linear amp chip.Yes, Vin = Vout, with 4V on 4ohm speakers.
I thought a emitter follower configuration with an opamp was just the thing for this? From my understanding, this is exactly the configuration that is used for a output buffer stage since it only gains on ampere and has low impedance (?).
That is a problem indeed in the nc25wmp! Found another nc2525mp test here in this very knowledgeable forum showing the same. It was even an Audiophonics but the smaller version MPA-S250NC (https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/audiophonics-mpa-s250nc-amp-review.45306/)That is also one of my favorite songs, and i have played dozens of times the last three months without any problems
But I have my Ultra output set to 2V and the B100 gain to medium.
Connection between Ultra => B100 are RCA-cables and my speakers are ~5 Ω with a sensitivity of ~87 dB
I hope that it works fine for You
I have found one review here of a NC252MP-amp but that amp didn't like the 2 Ω load test
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Buckeye NC252MP Stereo Amplifier Review
This is a review and detailed measurements of the Buckeye NC252MP balanced stereo class D amplifier. It was kindly drop shipped to me by a member and costs US $575. The amp is almost the size of a loaf of bread and literally weighs nearly as much! Amazing how far amplification technology has...www.audiosciencereview.com
Hopefully that will not be a problem with the Audiophonics-amp and Your speakers.
I bought my Ultra and my B100s in lat jan/early feb this year(-25) but today I would have bought the WiiM Amp Ultra.
You seem to be correct that the problem is the current. The way of using a 'emitter follower'/'buffer amplifier' is very commonly used in pre-amplifier.Op amps don't have the output current capacity for 1A - unless you are talking about adding a power transistor stage as the output buffer from the op amp, with the feedback taken at the output of the transistor stage. But it would need to be a push pull output stage - or you would be putting DC on the speaker and break it. And what you have now built is - a power amp - albeit with low power capability. If you were going this way you'd be better thinking about using a dedicated low power linear amp chip.
Or just go for one of the really cheap little class D amp modules - because if you are not an amp designer, and just cobbling something together yourself, you won't get better performance.
Because line level signals only need very low current - typically much less less than 1mA. Preamps all deal with line level signals.You seem to be correct that the problem is the current. The way of using a 'emitter follower'/'buffer amplifier' is very commonly used in pre-amplifier.
Make sure gains are matched.I'm gonna try the real blind test probably this weekend: somebody else changing amps without showing/telling what is connected. Suggestions on approach are welcome of course!
Thanks, yes that is an important thing! I Did that using a (stereo) sine tone and measuring dB at speakers. One amp left using left output of Ultra, one amp right using right output of Ultra, phone mic at each speaker driver and comparing results. Going to check that again before the test, to confirmMake sure gains are matched.
How did you do that? Matched by ear, or by meter?I used dac output to try and match sound pressure levels.
Last night I (accidentily) did a blind test in that I came home late and didn't remember what amp was connected. Started out sounding good, but after a few tracks it felt it somehow sounded stressing, as if playing on its limits. Absolutely the wrong words here I guess, but that's how i heard it. Could be the late night listening of course, had dinner and drinks so who knows ;-) But it turned out to be the Topping PA5mkiiplus playing.
I'm gonna try the real blind test probably this weekend: somebody else changing amps without showing/telling what is connected. Suggestions on approach are welcome of course!
Thank you all for helping out here!