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Topping B100 Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 30 6.4%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 27 5.8%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 82 17.5%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 329 70.3%

  • Total voters
    468
But that IS what happens more often than not these days.
That may well be, but this is an intentional descision. Fully integrated HiFi solutions are typically targeting entry-level HiFi customers but that isn't for technical reasons. The typical audiophile customer has been brainwashed into the thinking of seperate units for everything being technically superior, plus it gives room for the customer to play and make a hobby out of it, following the constant path of upgrading and replacing subunits and talking about it in forums ;-)
 
That may well be, but this is an intentional descision. Fully integrated HiFi solutions are typically targeting entry-level HiFi customers but that isn't for technical reasons. The typical audiophile customer has been brainwashed into the thinking of seperate units for everything being technically superior, plus it gives room for the customer to play and make a hobby out of it, following the constant path of upgrading and replacing subunits and talking about it in forums ;-)
I agree that it is not likely to be technical decisions but intentional decisions to keep the price down to sell for less.
IMO it's also harder (& more expensive to design a one box fits all with out the very low internal signals signals interfering with each other due to internal proximity.
I believe that to get the same quality as separates, it's going to cost more to accomplish due to the small signals involved internally & their proximity to each other & the larger amplifier signals. Of course, others may have other opinions.
For me, personally, separates have an ease of replacing a single unit item that has failed with another, In my case, I have a replacement for each item in my chain of gear on hand & can simply swap out any piece that has in some way failed with another. I never thought of all in one as being an advantage. Not even since before I was into audio (enamored by it at age 14, started actively in it at age 17 [1974]).
Here is an example: In other gear for other purposes (lawncare): I have a dedicated weed whacker and a separate edger (2 of each, 2 chainsaws (+ a mini one), a 50" rider mower, a 30" self propelled more and a 21" push mower. And a backpack blower (the only item that I don't have a backup for [but I can manually rake the leaves & use a mower to blow off the sidewalks]).
None of this is for Professional use, It's simply to make sure that I can get my 90 year old mother's 3/4 of an acre & my 1/4 of an acre (we live 12 miles apart & I keep the gear in a shed at my house & trailer it back & forth) done whether what I am using decides to run or not. It doesn't matter, no drama, I have a backup tool to use.
If I own something that I like, I buy a second one (because it may not be being made in the future). Shirts, shoes, etc.
To many, this seems odd: to all: you live your life your way and I'll live mine my way.
I learned this having 2 of everything (I was already doing it haphazardly but this person really made the point to me & I started doing it in earnest) Jeff Dorgay the founder of Tone Audio Magazine (One of the most subjective oriented magazines that I have ever read). But this idea has caused my life to have much less drama. And much less things disposed of.
Due to having the time to find great people to repair something without needing to immediately find something else to replace it. YMMV.
 
Where is it? And is it audible?
It depends. There is a LOT of what I would classify as disposable junk on the low end of things. (both in separate's and all-in-ones)
Audible: that is subjective, since you & I are pretty certain to not have the same level of hearing at all frequencies.
So, I guess you pay your money & take your chances.
That is not a gamble that I am willing to take.
 
I think that this is one of the reasons that there have been various threads recently about claimed amplifier power specifications and how some are misleading and of questionable help to the average consumer.
 
I think it's about time to introduce a rating with restrictions. Just reading through the beginning of this thread, you'd think the amp is performing well without restrictions. In the real world, however, it will only work well on a subset of speakers.
Also, the subset of tests performed does not seem to be sufficient.
I can't believe it. The rating of the amplifier is still (very) good (golfing panther = 68,6%, ...) :facepalm:
 
Well my left B100 just went. Will reach out to Topping about it. I can’t even listen to my system at this time as I have no spare amp of any other kind. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Can you specify loudspeakers and volume level during the incident.
 
Well my left B100 just went. Will reach out to Topping about it. I can’t even listen to my system at this time as I have no spare amp of any other kind. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

-Ed
Wow, and this is without the amp pushing lower frequencies?
 
Wow, and this is without the amp pushing lower frequencies?
It is full range. I’ve stopped using the bass management because I need the Left/Right room correction on the WiiM and when bass management is enabled, it performs combined, “stereo,” room correction without differentiating left from right, so I no longer use the bass management, and as a result play the speakers full range.

-Ed
 
KEF LS50 Metas. Was reasonably loud, louder than I normally listen, don’t know exact number.
I assume that the protection did not intervene preventively, correct?
 
I assume that the protection did not intervene preventively, correct?
Not sure exactly what it was. There was a very sudden burst of sound (highly dynamic recording) so actually both amps kicked safety, but the right amp was successfully reset whereas the left one refused to power back on.

-Ed
 
I assume that both amplifiers had already been pre-damaged by the load without kick-in from the protection. It would be interesting to measure the amp that is still working.
A first class investigation would probably be an obirch analysis or similar.
 
Unfortunatelly, their minimum impedance is lower than the minimum allowed for B100, in the datasheet specified as the >= 4 ohms.
index.php
 
Unfortunatelly, their minimum impedance is lower than the minimum allowed for B100, in the datasheet specified as the >= 4 ohms.
It is much worse, see also here: Link
 
Unfortunatelly, their minimum impedance is lower than the minimum allowed for B100, in the datasheet specified as the >= 4 ohms.
index.php
Exactly Micro this is all the problem. This amp with stability till at least 3 ohm would be perfect. But it's too low current, too much chip ice based, too much not discreet, too much delicate...
 
This could be a great amplifier for people with 8 ohms speakers with a high sensitivity.

The only problem is that most of today loudspeakers are not designed that way, because we get used to a “cheap power”.
 
Well my left B100 just went. Will reach out to Topping about it. I can’t even listen to my system at this time as I have no spare amp of any other kind. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

-Ed
Mine too :)) so mine right side on permanent protection mode and with Triangle Borea 07 which minimum impedance is above 5 ohm and is quite sensitivity at 91 db/w and low volume pressure, not coaxial speaker cable not high volume...it's dead.
But luckily when Topping B100 blew up I had a "spare" actually way better DIY power amp based on, also reviewed by @amirm whom I really thank for measuring DIY amp modules and this one is cheap and measures THD as good as Purifi Nad amps (check out SINAD figure ASR) is a amplifier module (board ) called 3E Audio PFFB tpa3255 stereo. We did with linear PSU (yeah with SMPS some say is better bla bla... Its my taste)and at the end actually it sounds as detailed and high resolution, it's , perhaps of being DIY module, more robust and durable, sounds warmer (perhaps with the high capacitance internal Canare wiring I chose, perhaps because linear power supply, perhaps it's my mind) it measures great and it's great with all speakers and my transformer resistor-less passive preamp.
 

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Exactly Micro this is all the problem. This amp with stability till at least 3 ohm would be perfect. But it's too low current, too much chip ice based, too much not discreet, too much delicate...
Not sure what you mean about, “too much chip ice based.” Pretty sure these are fully discrete, since they’re Class-B. Unless you know something about the exact architecture of these amps that nobody anywhere else is aware of outside of Topping itself.

-Ed
 
Not sure what you mean about, “too much chip ice based.” Pretty sure these are fully discrete, since they’re Class-B. Unless you know something about the exact architecture of these amps that nobody anywhere else is aware of outside of Topping itself.

-Ed
Meant IC integrated circuit (chip) ...if it was fully discreet class B amp (not chips not firmware not USB c ...just linear PSU, capacitors, transistors, resistors, inductors... It would MUCH more durable, it would perhaps last forever...but perhaps internal programmed obsolescence is involved. My TVC all discreet line stage line preamp no only inside transformers wounds and point to point aerial internal wiring and some switch made in Switzerland, that preamp is 8 years old daily use and it will last forever, on other size , my friend Julio loved her Topping line preamp... Till like our b100 it blew up too. it was many technician even traveled to china, no fix. Topping is great, best actually, for DAC. But preamps and DACs has no reliability at all. I was considering B200... It is actually**** discreet?? Idk. Meanwhile I'm happy with my 3E Audio TPA3255 PFFB module amp board based DIY power amp also reviewed by Armir, not best measurement in world but as good as NAD Purify comercial power amp. I wish there is a Nilai or AHB2 cheaper but there is not. Meanwhile Im happy with 3E Audio PFFB amp diy
 
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