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Topping A90 Headphone Amplifier Review

AudioStudies

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hello guys,
my setup is topping combo a90+d90,
sudenlly my headphone no sounds, but a90 and d90 power still on.
i already tried to change from usb source to bluetooth, but still no sound, what should i do?
Do you have another source to plug the headphones into, to make sure it is not a problem with the headphones? Have you tried disconnecting from power and then reconnecting? Did you accidentally bump a toggle switch in the front into the wrong position?
 
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Rantenti

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hello guys,
my setup is topping combo a90+d90,
sudenlly my headphone no sounds, but a90 and d90 power still on.
i already tried to change from usb source to bluetooth, but still no sound, what should i do?

Hi, you'll need to find out which link in the audio chain is causing the problem. Never mind if some of the following are too obvious.
1. Have you flipped the A90 switch all the way up accidentally to preamp out?
2. Are all the cables from computer USB out to your headphones securely plugged in?
3. Do your headphones work when plugged into other sources, eg your phone?
4. if you have active speakers or another Hifi system, you may connect the output of the D90 to speakers to ensure the D90 is working (or not).
5. If the D90 is working, connect the output of the A90 to speakers.

Do turn down the volume of the D90 preamp/ A90 preamp before you start playing a test track. Good luck.
 

Polloanarquista

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Hello,

I hope this is the right forum to ask this question. I see a lot of other people tagging @JohnYang1997 regarding the Topping A90, so I'm gonna do so in case he is able to help out.

I recently purchased a Topping A90. My current setup is a Windows PC -> S.M.S.L. SU-9 DAC -> WBC Balanced Cables -> Topping A90. When I connect my Sennheisers 650 of my Hifiman Sundaras single ended, it works great, and either headphone will work in High Gain at about 9 or 10 o'clock, but when I use a balanced cable (XLR) between the A90 and either headphone, there's a loud "click" and the volume becomes really low, to the point where I can max it out at high gain and barely hear anything. Also, you can hear static when this happens.

If I shut the amp down, and switch back to single ended, it works great again, but as soon as I try to use either XLR cable with the headphones, the issue occurs again. It happens on low, medium or high gain.

I've read some other people have this issue, but I haven't seen somebody post a solution, aside from somebody who claims that changing the XLR headphone cables did eventually fix the problem, but it seems odd that two different cables from two different brands have the same issue. Also, this cables run well with other amps.

Appreciate any help anybody can give me, as I can definitely hear the AMPs potential, so I don't want to return it, but its hard to justify if it can't run balanced...
 

JohnYang1997

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Hello,

I hope this is the right forum to ask this question. I see a lot of other people tagging @JohnYang1997 regarding the Topping A90, so I'm gonna do so in case he is able to help out.

I recently purchased a Topping A90. My current setup is a Windows PC -> S.M.S.L. SU-9 DAC -> WBC Balanced Cables -> Topping A90. When I connect my Sennheisers 650 of my Hifiman Sundaras single ended, it works great, and either headphone will work in High Gain at about 9 or 10 o'clock, but when I use a balanced cable (XLR) between the A90 and either headphone, there's a loud "click" and the volume becomes really low, to the point where I can max it out at high gain and barely hear anything. Also, you can hear static when this happens.

If I shut the amp down, and switch back to single ended, it works great again, but as soon as I try to use either XLR cable with the headphones, the issue occurs again. It happens on low, medium or high gain.

I've read some other people have this issue, but I haven't seen somebody post a solution, aside from somebody who claims that changing the XLR headphone cables did eventually fix the problem, but it seems odd that two different cables from two different brands have the same issue. Also, this cables run well with other amps.

Appreciate any help anybody can give me, as I can definitely hear the AMPs potential, so I don't want to return it, but its hard to justify if it can't run balanced...
What other amps do you use?
 

Veri

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when I use a balanced cable (XLR) between the A90 and either headphone, there's a loud "click" and the volume becomes really low, to the point where I can max it out at high gain and barely hear anything. Also, you can hear static when this happens.
Something's defective. Mine did not do this ever.
 

Polloanarquista

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That is indeed a true balanced output. In this case, I'm sorry, can't help other than to suggest you to ask the seller for a replacement or refund.

Thanks for the time replying @JohnYang1997. Appreciate it.

Last quick questions: Do you think it's worth it to try and get some other balanced cables to rule out the cables? Maybe with 4.4 balanced connectors? I live in Costa Rica, so the return process would be bothersome, so I want to make sure to rule out any issues on the other gear before going through it...

What bothers me is that it doesn't matter if I go from the DAC to the AMP using RCA or XLR, the behavior is the same: Great single ended performance but issues with balanced. Also, if I'm listening to a headphone connected through a single ended cable, and I connect the balanced cable to the XLR port but without any headphone connected to it, there are no issues, but as soon as I connect the headphone to the XLR cable, the issue happens...
 

192kbps

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That is indeed a true balanced output. In this case, I'm sorry, can't help other than to suggest you to ask the seller for a replacement or refund.

CE test environments are defined as follows:

  • E1 - Residential Environment
  • E2 - Commercial and Light Industrial (e.g. theaters)
  • E3 - Urban Outdoors
  • E4 - Controlled EMC Environment (purpose-built broadcasting or recording studio)
  • E5 - Heavy Industrial
Topping E1 or E4?
 

hmscott

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@Polloanarquista - sorry to hear you are having a problem with your A90, but it does indeed sound like a problem with balanced XLR/4.4mm headphone output section in the A90 you received.

I can run my A90 with 3 headphones connected at the same time - NOT RECOMMENDED FUNCTIONALITY - but I wanted to let you know a properly functioning A90 can put out plenty of power without "clicking" into protection - which is what that click likely is, a protection circuit cutting out the load. I drive a Hifiman HE6SE V2 which is quite the heavy load - I need the H Gain + 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock volume setting, pretty much maxing out the A90.

The headphones you are using use different headphone connectors to the headphone, so are you already trying 2 different balanced cables? - or does only one of them have a set of balanced cables? If you only have one set of balanced cables then yes, if I was in this situation I'd buy another brand of balanced cable for the other set of headphones - so you can rule out the cable and headphone being the load problem.

The Loxjie P20 may not have the sensitivity to a load problem, or it might not have a protection circuit like the A90 - as the P20 is much less expensive it might forgo any more than a fuse for protection - if it even has that.

Do you have an IEM with a balanced cable? That would be a "light load" to try on the A90 balanced section, 4.4mm or 4-pin. It would also be a good idea to try both 4-pin and 4.4mm before returning, it's possible one or the other might be the problem - an internal wiring issue, although I think I've heard the 4-pin / 4.4mm are pretty much linked, so unless it's a wiring connection problem isolated to the connector wiring using either socket might still trigger protection.

I'm providing these options as you are in a situation where an RMA will be costly, but likely as not you will need to do an RMA, and the sooner the better. I would do a full return to get my money back, and buy from another vendor to get a unit pulled from another production build run. IDK how much time you have left to return for a full refund vs. RMA, but even if you buy a replacement unit from the same seller I'd select a new unit over waiting for an RMA Repair return.

The Topping A90 / D90 MQA have been very reliable for my use, and I haven't seen many DOA units reported here. I hope your next A90 is a good experience for you too.

Please do come back and let us know how it works out. :)
 
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hmscott

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I had been using the iDSD Signature and recently received the Gustard X26 pro. I kept using RCA cables (stock cables / Mogami 2497) between the Gustard and A90, then XLR cables from A90 to the Neumann KH 80.

Buzzing noises could be softly heard on the Neumann, and it was very loud when I used IEMs plugged into the Topping A90.

1. I added an ifi iDefender to the USB cable, 90% of the noise is gone. This showed that there was a ground loop. Still some noise remained.

2. The remaining noise waxed and waned with GPU usage (eg. playing a video without sound), so there must be some EMI noise as well. Moving the A90 away from the computer and router lessened this noise. Moving the Gustard X26 Pro had no effect, perhaps due to shielding by the thick aluminum casing.

3. Occassionally, there was an extra 1kHz whine and intermittent buzz that the iDefender couldn't remove. I unplugged the router, it disappeared So the router (which was ungrounded), must be one of the culprits of noise too.

Today, I received my much needed second pair of XLR cables and now both my DAC-Amp and Amp-Neumann connections are Mogami 2549 XLR. All noises are gone, even without the iDefender.

There are a few interesting observations.

1. If I connect the DAC and the A90 with BOTH RCA and XLR cables in place, even if I flipped the switch to XLR input on the A90, all noises will be present.

2. The Wifi router related noise could not be replicated now, after I unplugged the router and all the LAN cables and replugged them in. I hope they don't come back.

3. The if iPurifier doesn't always reduce noise. In my previous configuration where the iDefender reduced 90% of the ground loop noise, adding an iPurifier to the USB gave me double the noise.

Finally, all my equipment are plugged by UK plugs (except the router) into two power strips (Belkin/ Schneider) going into one grounded wall mains socket.

Happy to share my experience and to learn from you all.
I had to go through a similar long path to getting rid of the USB/RCA noise with the D90 MQA + A90, I have a number of posts in this A90 thread and the D90 thread, if you look at those they should give you some other ideas. Here is a summary and resolutions I found below:

Off the top, you picked Mogami 2597 cable, which is a great cable:

"The Mogami 2497 is a gold rated high end Hifi interconnect cable from mogami that has gained acclaim all over the world from audiophiles and studio professionals alike. Constructed with a patented Double‐Cylindrical structure, the 2497 is a high resolution cable with rich detail for the most demanding hi fi applications."
Mogami W2497 | Redco Audio

But, for RFI and environmental interference rejection Mogami 2534 is recommended, and 2534 wired cables are what I used to get rid of all the RFI / environmental noise with my RCA and RCA+XLR - D90 MQA + A90 configuation.

"Mogami Neglex quad cable is perfect cable for home studios suffering from wiring and grounding problems. Mogami 2534 should also be used where intense RFI interference is a problem. Mogami 2534 provides an improvement in signal to noise of 10-20db over equivalent twisted pair cables. Double conductors quad cables are more effective in canceling noise that can get past even the best of shields and is critical in an environment of high RF and EM interference. Conductor insulation is XLPE ( Cross-Linked Polyethylene) which has excellent electrical characteristics and prevents shrink-back during soldering. Served (spiral) Bare Copper Shield is superior to foil or braided shields for sound quality and simplifies termination."
Mogami W2534 | Redco Audio

I used the Redco Audio links and descriptions as they were first up in the search right now - and summed up the differences between the cables nicely. For my own research I consulted a wide range of information before purchasing Worlds Best Cables made with Mogami 2534 cable for XLR and RCA cables from Amazon:

Amazon.com: 1 Foot – Quad Balanced Microphone Cable Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES – Using Mogami 2534 Wire and Neutrik NC3MXX-B Male & NC3FXX-B Female XLR Plugs.: Musical Instruments
Amazon.com: 1 Foot – Directional Quad High-Definition Audio Interconnect Cable Pair Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES – Using Mogami 2534 Wire and Amphenol ACPR Die-Cast, Gold Plated RCA Connectors: Industrial & Scientific

Those 2 items are what I bought, but the data sheets were removed from those listings, so here is listing for a 3' version of the same cable that still has the datasheets - those images are included in the "spoiler" below" in case they are removed from that listing too:

Amazon.com: 3 Foot – Quad Balanced Microphone Cable Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES – Using Mogami 2534 Wire and Neutrik NC3MXX-B Male & NC3FXX-B Female XLR Plugs.: Musical Instruments
1623594033536.png

1623594085612.png

Also, did you use an "Orange" ifi Defender 3.0 (2018), or an "Orange" case ifi iDefender+ (2020)? I used the newer 2020 version and it completely got rid of my PC USB power line noise mostly induced by the GPU during gaming or compute tasks used in addition to the Jenving USB cable, and WBC Mogami 2534 Star-Quad Shielded XLR and RCA cables.

Right now Amazon only has the older ifi Defender 3.0 (2018) on sale - there is no listing for the USB A-A version, and apparently the USB A-A version went out of stock way back when I ordered mine - because Amazon sent me the USB C-A version instead of what I ordered. So I emailed [email protected] and they were kind enough to send me an iDefender+ (2020) unit (and an iSilencer+) which was great because I was able to use both iDefender+ units - it turns out even with one iDefender+ connected to my PC => D90 MQA - my other PC USB => M15 was also inducing noise!

So, try disconnecting your PC's other USB cables to see if that helps, until you get 2 (or more) ifi iDefender+'s for all of your noisy USB outputs.

Here is the USB cable I use which also reduced the USB Noise:
SUPRA Cables - Experience High Quality HDMI, DVI and HI-FI Cables & adapters. (jenving.com)
USB 2.0 A-B BLUE 0.7M (jenving.com)

Update: The Jenving Supra cable was recommended here by several ASR members, and here is what Jenving have to say (at that 0.7m USB 2.0 link) about adding ferrite cores to reduce EMI/RFI and their effect on data stream:
"Note! Be careful in the use of ferrites. Not all ferrites are tuned correctly to be used with this high frequency data transfer cable without changing the electrical properties of the cable to the point where the data transfer is corrupted and/or slowed down. This is a general notification for all digital interconnects. We have encountered HDMI cables not coming even close to the original excellent performance, thanks to later added ferrites with the benign intention of reducing RFI. "

IDK what length USB cable works for you, hopefully that length is in stock on ebay. I bought the Supra USB 2.0 0.7m cable from a Jenving distributor zendada on eBay, but he isn't currently listing the 0.7m length, and no one else is either: supra usb 2.0 for audio 0.7-meter | eBay

I requested RCA=>3.5mm Jenving cables not listed anywhere on ebay from zendada on eBay and he was quite helpful - there was a longer wait due to early lockdown pandemic delays in manufacturing, but after 2 months zendada on eBay followed through and contacted me when they arrived and were available.

My Wifi/Router is about 20' away from my PC, and now that I have the induced noise sources found and mitigated, I put my Topping D90 MQA + A90 + Xduoo TA-20 literally on top of my PC case, so no need to move my headphone stack away from my PC. Very nice. :)

I was on the path to getting rid of the noise for a while, and I didn't stop with the cable changes - even though I didn't detect any noise - in addition to getting a power strip with better noise filtering, I went the next step and got a low cost "backup" battery with 2 Pure Sine Wave 110v (300W combined) power sockets, to allow my D90 MQA + Xduoo TA-20 to run on battery power - disconnected from AC power. I can run 8+ hours with both the A90 + TA-20. I've also run a long time with the A90 + D90 MQA, also very enjoyable sound.

Portable Power Station 252.7Wh Power House – RAVPower
Amazon.com: Portable Power Station RAVPower 252.7Wh/70200mAh Solar Generator,Dual 110V/300W Pure Sine Wave AC Outlet,60W PD and 120W DC Port Backup Lithium Battery for Outdoors Camping Travel Hunting Emergency: Electronics
Currently it is $185 on Amazon and $175 on Ravpower, but I got on Ravpowers mailing list - the Ravpower Newsletter sign up is located at the bottom of each web page - and after a couple of months I caught a great sale and got it for $159.

Right now I have all three devices plugged into the AC power strip for a comparison I did recently between the A90 and TA-20's AUX Out port both driven by the D90 MQA, eventually I'll go back to the RP-PB187 offline power. But, I may go for another option that will power more than 2 AC outlets at the same time. It is important to make sure the battery unit you buy doesn't use a modified square wave AC inverter, for audiophile listening we need good clean sine wave AC power. I will update here on ASR when I find a good one.

Note that I don't recommend combining grounded AC powered devices and ungrounded battery powered devices in the same interconnected stack! Portable power AC sockets don't usually have a ground connection - the RP-PB187 charger doesn't have a ground pin either.

The RP-PB187 doesn't have accommodation for AC ground pins, so I needed to get 2 inexpensive "cheater" adapters. Since most free standing portable devices don't have a ground connection anyway, it isn't dangerous to use a cheater plug. But, I wouldn't intermix AC powered/grounded devices with the non-grounded AC devices powered by an ungrounded battery backup. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, I understand. I've been working with AC/DC analog power since I was young, and have a long professional career - with a lot more experience gained over 50+ years. You need to have a well ingrained awareness to "walk the line", so please don't try this at home unless you know what I am trying to convey. :)

So, please don't be discouraged, in the long run you can get rid of all the noise and the result is audio with a black background with great dynamics and enjoyable sound. :)
 
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JohnYang1997

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I had to go through a similar long path to getting rid of the USB/RCA noise with the D90 MQA + A90, I have a number of posts in this A90 thread and the D90 thread, if you look at those they should give you some other ideas. Here is a summary and resolutions I found below:

Off the top, you picked Mogami 2597 cable, which is a great cable:

"The Mogami 2497 is a gold rated high end Hifi interconnect cable from mogami that has gained acclaim all over the world from audiophiles and studio professionals alike. Constructed with a patented Double‐Cylindrical structure, the 2497 is a high resolution cable with rich detail for the most demanding hi fi applications."
Mogami W2497 | Redco Audio

But, for RFI and environmental interference rejection Mogami 2534 is recommended, and 2534 wired cables are what I used to get rid of all the RFI / environmental noise with my RCA and RCA+XLR - D90 MQA + A90 configuation.

"Mogami Neglex quad cable is perfect cable for home studios suffering from wiring and grounding problems. Mogami 2534 should also be used where intense RFI interference is a problem. Mogami 2534 provides an improvement in signal to noise of 10-20db over equivalent twisted pair cables. Double conductors quad cables are more effective in canceling noise that can get past even the best of shields and is critical in an environment of high RF and EM interference. Conductor insulation is XLPE ( Cross-Linked Polyethylene) which has excellent electrical characteristics and prevents shrink-back during soldering. Served (spiral) Bare Copper Shield is superior to foil or braided shields for sound quality and simplifies termination."
Mogami W2534 | Redco Audio

I used the Redco Audio links and descriptions as they were first up in the search right now - and summed up the differences between the cables nicely. For my own research I consulted a wide range of information before purchasing Worlds Best Cables made XLR and RCA cables from Amazon:

Amazon.com: 1 Foot – Quad Balanced Microphone Cable Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES – Using Mogami 2534 Wire and Neutrik NC3MXX-B Male & NC3FXX-B Female XLR Plugs.: Musical Instruments
Amazon.com: 1 Foot – Directional Quad High-Definition Audio Interconnect Cable Pair Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES – Using Mogami 2534 Wire and Amphenol ACPR Die-Cast, Gold Plated RCA Connectors: Industrial & Scientific

Those 2 items are what I bought, but the data sheets were removed from those listings, so here is listing for a 3' version of the same cable that still has the datasheets - those images are included in the "spoiler" below" in case they are removed from that listing too:

Amazon.com: 3 Foot – Quad Balanced Microphone Cable Custom Made by WORLDS BEST CABLES – Using Mogami 2534 Wire and Neutrik NC3MXX-B Male & NC3FXX-B Female XLR Plugs.: Musical Instruments

Also, did you use an "Orange" ifi Defender 3.0 (2018), or an "Orange" case ifi iDefender+ (2020)? I used the newer 2020 version and it completely got rid of my PC USB power line noise mostly induced by the GPU during gaming or compute tasks used in addition to the Jenving USB cable, and WBC Mogami 2534 Star-Quad Shielded XLR and RCA cables.

Right now Amazon only has the older ifi Defender 3.0 (2018) on sale - there is no listing for the USB A-A version, and apparently the USB A-A version went out of stock way back when I ordered mine - because Amazon sent me the USB C-A version instead of what I ordered. So I emailed [email protected] and they were kind enough to send me an iDefender+ (2020) unit (and an iSilencer+) which was great because I was able to use both iDefender+ units - it turns out even with one iDefender+ connected to my PC => D90 MQA - my other PC USB => M15 was also inducing noise!

So, try disconnecting your PC's other USB cables to see if that helps, until you get 2 (or more) ifi iDefender+'s for all of your noisy USB outputs.

Here is the USB cable I use which also reduced the USB Noise:
SUPRA Cables - Experience High Quality HDMI, DVI and HI-FI Cables & adapters. (jenving.com)

IDK what length USB cable works for you, hopefully that length is in stock on ebay. I bought the Supra USB 2.0 0.7m cable from a Jenving distributor zendada on eBay, but he isn't currently listing the 0.7m length, and no one else is either: supra usb 2.0 for audio 0.7-meter | eBay

I requested RCA=>3.5mm Jenving cables not listed anywhere on ebay from zendada on eBay and he was quite helpful - there was a longer wait due to early lockdown pandemic delays in manufacturing, but after 2 months zendada on eBay followed through and contacted me when they arrived and were available.

My Wifi/Router is about 20' away from my PC, and now that I have the induced noise sources found and mitigated, I put my Topping D90 MQA + A90 + Xduoo TA-20 literally on top of my PC case, so no need to move my headphone stack away from my PC. Very nice. :)

I was on the path to getting rid of the noise for a while, and I didn't stop with the cable changes - even though I didn't detect any noise - in addition to getting a power strip with better noise filtering, I went the next step and got a low cost "backup" battery with 2 Pure Sine Wave 110v (300W combined) power sockets, to allow my D90 MQA + Xduoo TA-20 to run on battery power - disconnected from AC power. I can run 8+ hours with both the A90 + TA-20. I've also run a long time with the A90 + D90 MQA, also very enjoyable sound.

Portable Power Station 252.7Wh Power House – RAVPower
Amazon.com: Portable Power Station RAVPower 252.7Wh/70200mAh Solar Generator,Dual 110V/300W Pure Sine Wave AC Outlet,60W PD and 120W DC Port Backup Lithium Battery for Outdoors Camping Travel Hunting Emergency: Electronics
Currently it is $185 on Amazon and $175 on Ravpower, but I got on Ravpowers mailing list - the Ravpower Newsletter sign up is located at the bottom of each web page - and after a couple of months I caught a great sale and got it for $159.

Right now I have all three plugged into the power strip for a comparison I did between the A90 and TA-20's AUX Out port both driven by the D90 MQA, eventually I'll go back to the RP-PB187 offline power. But, I may go for another option that will power more than 2 AC outlets at the same time. I will update here on ASR when I find a good one.

So, please don't be discouraged, in the long run you can get rid of all the noise and the result is audio with a black background with great dynamics and enjoyable sound. :)
Another solution is to use RCA to XLR cable. So this way there are three wires each channel in between the devices. And the differential input only cares about the difference between the signal and signal ground. This will also eliminate noise.
Down side is that input impedance is only 2k and there's no DC blocking capacitor.
 

hmscott

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Another solution is to use RCA to XLR cable. So this way there are three wires each channel in between the devices. And the differential input only cares about the difference between the signal and signal ground. This will also eliminate noise.
Down side is that input impedance is only 2k and there's no DC blocking capacitor.
There are only 2 inputs on the A90, one RCA and one XLR, so the RCA to XLR cable only works once, and many of my devices only have an RCA or 3.5mm=>RCA output.

But, it is a good idea to try if you only have one RCA output to work with, then you can use the single A90 XLR input.

I am assuming inserting a Pre90 or Pre90+Ext90 in front of the A90, connected with an XLR would solve this noise problem too?, as long as you didn't then use the A90 RCA input?

Thank you so much for all of the help you provide here on ASR, I really do appreciate it :)
 
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What would be the perfect size dac for the A90 amp, similar price as well?
SU-9, X16, D70s, Ares II.

Looking to get my first amp and dac combo.
Interested about the A90, and wondering about which dac suits it best.
 

tarkus

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Anyone have any trouble with left right balance?

I have imbalance (right louder than left), thought it was a software problem however this is solved by increasing the volume up loud on the A90, then it balances itself and keeps in when turning it back down, although losing it again at a later point.

Anyone had the same problem?
 

JohnYang1997

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Anyone have any trouble with left right balance?

I have imbalance (right louder than left), thought it was a software problem however this is solved by increasing the volume up loud on the A90, then it balances itself and keeps in when turning it back down, although losing it again at a later point.

Anyone had the same problem?
What volume position were you at and what gain setting were you using?
 

tarkus

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What volume position were you at and what gain setting were you using?

Thanks for replying so quick.

Happens at both mid and high gains at normal volumes (I don't use low).

Balances corrects itself after going to high levels in either gain, but easier with high gain.
 

JohnYang1997

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Thanks for replying so quick.

Happens at both mid and high gains at normal volumes (I don't use low).

Balances corrects itself after going to high levels in either gain, but easier with high gain.
Pot position that you experience the issue is over 9 o'clock or lower?
 

gazzington78

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I’m thinking of getting one of these amps and a d90se. I appreciate that this will produce a very clean transparent sound. What headphones would go well with this combo?
 
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