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Topping A30Pro Review (Balanced Headphone Amp)

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This picture doesn't show how to open the chassis, but at least makes some light about what could be the culprit for not getting the chassis open.
For sure, behind the knob you'll find that threaded potentiometer axle that implies a nut has to be removed.
I'd try again with the volume knob, maybe applying some heat to make any glue smoothen.
Awesome, thanks for the picture and the tip with the heat!
 
Thank you for the reply. We tried to remove the knob, but its holding very tightly on there. We fear damaging the device by using more force.
Does anyone have any tips/tools needed on safely removing the knob?
To remove the cap from the L30, I used a pair of thick pry picks (those for removing phone's display).
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Good news, at the very end! ;)
 
Hi, A30 and D30 user here, after being powered on for ~8h a day for ~5y I now can hear the coil whine. Its the same as already reported here, power switch is on, front input is in OFF position.
Im using OFF position as pass through for speakers and XLR for headphones. The coil whine completely dies out when I switch it to XLR, but being in this mode it builds it up?, because after when I switch from XLR to back to OFF position, the coil whine will be louder than what it would be if I hadnt used it in XRL position in the first place.
 
Hi @trialpod, and welcome.

What you describe is an annoying fact that many A30 Pro users well know.
If you would pick a microphone nearing the A30 Pro, it would probably detect a near-20KHz peak that appears after several time of continuous power-grid connection.

As you can read within this huge thread, there are some critical aspect about the thermal management of the A30 Pro, so I can invite you to grant the A30 plenty of space and ventilation when in use and, mandatory, always shut off the rear power switch when not in use.

This is how I managed to get my A30 endure way over 4 years and still get full satisfaction when in use.
 
It's enough to grant long life to our beloved A30 Pro! ;)
 
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