Topping A30Pro Review (Balanced Headphone Amp)

[AdamG]

To the moderators (@AdamG), I wonder if this very long thread working to help this person diagnose an issue should be moved entirely to a separate thread, e.g., "Help diagnose humming issue between DX3 Pro+ and A30Pro".

Rationale: the conversation is largely off-topic for the A30Pro review thread; and it has taken up a huge amount of "real estate" for anyone who is wading through this thread in the future.

Excellent point. Let’s get back on topic and if the complaining member desires to continue to discuss this malfunction please start a separate thread.

Thank you @rcstevensonaz for bring this to our attention. We may relocate some of the off topic posts or further delete them.

On edit: 37 off topic posts moved to a new separate thread here:

Help with Topping A30Pro Review (Balanced Headphone Amp) problems

still humming

www.audiosciencereview.com

 

[flAked]

For posterity, I was able to fix my A30 Pro and I'm using it daily for a couple of weeks now.

Sadly I didn't take any pictures, but maybe this information will be useful for someone.

Under the heatsink there are two identical circuits, one for each channel. In the initial filter/regulator stage, there is one primary ceramic capacitor, connected to large L-shape copper traces, before the signal then goes to the Op-Amps.

In my case, the left capacitor was shorted. I desoldered the working capacitor on the right and measured around 20uF, typical values for 0805 ceramic capacitors are 15uF or 22uF, so I went with 22uF on both sides.

The main circuit runs on 25V, so I went for 0805 22uF 25V ceramic capacitors, as I couldn't find any higher rated ones with that specification anyways. There is little room under the heatsink. There are double stacked 22uF for 50V, but they would not fit.

After soldering and re-assembly, the relay clicking was gone. I tested it with disposable headphones for around 8h before plugging in my regular headphones.

If you attempt this, you should be comfortable with 0805 SMD soldering. It's your own risk, I'm just a guy on the internet without a schematic. Also, your device could have a different fault, I measured every component for shorts and only had one bad component.

 

[LeeJ]

Are there more distortion and power tests at different impedances? Is there an intermodulation distortion test report?

 

[staticV3]

Are there more distortion and power tests at different impedances?

Below are measurements of an A30 Pro prototype at 8, 32, and 68Ω, as well as Multitone distortion:

Measurements of Topping A30Pro HeadphoneAmp（Prototype） - L7Audiolab

台式设备 Topping 又双叒叕发中山装套了…… 这次是和D30Pro对应的耳放…… A30Pro。从我的理解来看，这是一个定位于A90和L30之间的产品？阿半刀法是否精准？囧又潜回用户群的背后到底发生了什么？昨晚拓品公司聚餐的鞭到底来自何方？让我们拭目以待

www.l7audiolab.com

 

[LeeJ]

Thank you very much for your reply.

 

[kaiproctor]

Mine just broke after one year of use (at first there was a ticking sound and then it stopped showing signs of life).

 

[Jimster480]

Mine just broke after one year of use (at first there was a ticking sound and then it stopped showing signs of life).

Around how many hours of use?
Do you have anything stacked on top of it? I know that earlier in this threat people were talking about having the DAC stacked on top of the amp could cause it to fail.

 

[mocenigo]

Around how many hours of use?
Do you have anything stacked on top of it? I know that earlier in this threat people were talking about having the DAC stacked on top of the amp could cause it to fail.

Thermal issues?

 

[A Surfer]

Thermal issues?

That or they just couldn't get along.

 

[juliangst]

I have this amp for 4.5 years now and I'm still surprised how much power through single ended it delivers.
Even the insanely powerful A70 Pro doesn't match it's single ended output power

 

[Rayman30]

I have this amp for 4.5 years now and I'm still surprised how much power through single ended it delivers.
Even the insanely powerful A70 Pro doesn't match it's single ended output power

I've had the A30 Pro and D30 Pro since early 2022, I see no reason to change the stack as they are still chart "topping" in performance. They power all of my headphones (LCD-X, DCA Noire X, HD650) with ease. I do wish it had built in PEQ like the DX5ii (Currently using at the office) but its no big deal since the 30 stack is connected to a desktop.

 

[Jimster480]

I've had the A30 Pro and D30 Pro since early 2022, I see no reason to change the stack as they are still chart "topping" in performance. They power all of my headphones (LCD-X, DCA Noire X, HD650) with ease. I do wish it had built in PEQ like the DX5ii (Currently using at the office) but its no big deal since the 30 stack is connected to a desktop.

Yep, I am even using a D70S from like 2020/2021 and it is more than fine! Literally has near 120 SINAD, there is no upgrade ever in terms of sound quality I don't think. However there might be in terms of features, connectivity, PEQ, etc
Nevermind that for my main AMP I am using a THX AAA 789 that is Pre-2020. It has like 25000 hours of listening through it probably LOL

 

[Rayman30]

Yep, I am even using a D70S from like 2020/2021 and it is more than fine! Literally has near 120 SINAD, there is no upgrade ever in terms of sound quality I don't think. However there might be in terms of features, connectivity, PEQ, etc
Nevermind that for my main AMP I am using a THX AAA 789 that is Pre-2020. It has like 25000 hours of listening through it probably LOL

I just remembered that my avatar is literally of the A30 Pro/D30 Pro stack lol

You are still using the THX 789? wow, well I guess if its not broken don't fix it.

 

[Jimster480]

I just remembered that my avatar is literally of the A30 Pro/D30 Pro stack lol

You are still using the THX 789? wow, well I guess if its not broken don't fix it.

THX 789 is totally transparent lol, no reason to change it.
I have a Geshelli Archel 3 Pro as well with Tone controls, so I use both depending on what I am listening to and with what headphone.
I also have an EX5 on my gaming PC that drives my HiVi Swan M10 or my Aeon Flow Closed (Gen 1).

 

[Rayman30]

THX 789 is totally transparent lol, no reason to change it.
I have a Geshelli Archel 3 Pro as well with Tone controls, so I use both depending on what I am listening to and with what headphone.
I also have an EX5 on my gaming PC that drives my HiVi Swan M10 or my Aeon Flow Closed (Gen 1).

Exactly, transparent and can you really hear a difference in SINAD upgrading it?

I have always wanted a Gesheli, I could just never justify the price, I suppose its worth it being made in the US and have a nice wood enclosure, I'm just cheap I guess, enter Topping!

I also have a HiVi Swan set, but its the M200 Mkiii. It was fantastic while it lasted, but the amplifier started buzzing, I took it apart and could not find any leaking or bulging caps, its still in my closet taking up room. I had moved on to an American brand, Vanatoo T1E+ (Paired with Kali WS 6-2 Sub) which has been fantastic. Unfortunately Swan support was non existent, if only I could get a replacement amp!

 

[Jimster480]

Exactly, transparent and can you really hear a difference in SINAD upgrading it?

I have always wanted a Gesheli, I could just never justify the price, I suppose its worth it being made in the US and have a nice wood enclosure, I'm just cheap I guess, enter Topping!

I also have a HiVi Swan set, but its the M200 Mkiii. It was fantastic while it lasted, but the amplifier started buzzing, I took it apart and could not find any leaking or bulging caps, its still in my closet taking up room. I had moved on to an American brand, Vanatoo T1E+ (Paired with Kali WS 6-2 Sub) which has been fantastic. Unfortunately Swan support was non existent, if only I could get a replacement amp!

My HiVi M10 is now 8-10 years old and it still works perfectly! I have lost the little glued on feet on the sub, but that is about it.
I was able to hear differences in SINAD up to around 108... past that I couldn't tell a difference no matter how hard I tried. Maybe I need better headphones, but this is using my Aeon... with some of my less resolving headphones I couldn't tell a difference after 98-101 best case (frequency dependent heavily).
I have an original Archel 2 Pro that was the first 120SINAD Amp on this website, I went and bought it immediately and used it along with my THX 789. The Archel 3 Pro I got specifically because of its Tone controls. I can adjust my headphones as I like depending on the music. It is the most expensive piece of audio gear that I have at around $600 but I do make good use of it.
Funnily I got started with the Topping A30/D30 after a Schiit Fulla2. I took a chance on the then-unknown brand of Topping because it was cheap for a stack.

 

[Penultima]

Hi All. Can anyone please advise how to open the A30 Pro?
Ive got my stack since 2022, so warranty is over and have some issues so the amp is with repair technician. Both of us cant figure out how to open it.
The screws on the back and bottom were removed, but there is not even a sign of anything loosening.
Ive searched the thread and found that some of the users here managed to open it or have instructions on how to do it properly (@DualTriode or @PoisonRoses or @flAked).
Any advice from anyone is appreciated.

 

[half_dog]

Hi All. Can anyone please advise how to open the A30 Pro?
Ive got my stack since 2022, so warranty is over and have some issues so the amp is with repair technician. Both of us cant figure out how to open it.
The screws on the back and bottom were removed, but there is not even a sign of anything loosening.
Ive searched the thread and found that some of the users here managed to open it or have instructions on how to do it properly (@DualTriode or @PoisonRoses or @flAked).
Any advice from anyone is appreciated.

It might have a nut underneath the volume knob... A least, to disassembly the L30 (II), there is a nut holding the volume stem underneath its cap. Removing the cap, you can unscrew it with a thin pliers.

 

[Penultima]

It might have a nut underneath the volume knob... A least, to disassembly the L30 (II), there is a nut holding the volume stem underneath its cap. Removing the cap, you can unscrew it with a thin pliers.

Thank you for the reply. We tried to remove the knob, but its holding very tightly on there. We fear damaging the device by using more force.
Does anyone have any tips/tools needed on safely removing the knob?

 

[Saponetto]

This picture doesn't show how to open the chassis, but at least makes some light about what could be the culprit for not getting the chassis open.
For sure, behind the knob you'll find that threaded potentiometer axle that implies a nut has to be removed.
I'd try again with the volume knob, maybe applying some heat to make any glue smoothen.