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Software tools for building better DIY speakers

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Rick Sykora

Rick Sykora

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Anyone have a good free cabinet diffraction tool?

I need to simulate a more complex baffle than a simple rectangular one...
 
OP
Rick Sykora

Rick Sykora

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Anyone have a good free cabinet diffraction tool?

I need to simulate a more complex baffle than a simple rectangular one...

nvm, @ctrl just noted that VituixCAD can do. Just need to click new or else it just looks like rectangular only. :oops:
 

HammerSandwich

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For other readers, once a baffle is shown on the left, you can right click a corner to delete it or add more. Then drag them and/or use the XY coordinates under View to set positions.

This example began as a 400mm square. The highlighted corner is at 256, 232.

VCad diffraction.png
 

BenB

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What software can simulate the diffraction and reflections of a wedge shaped speaker (deep on the bottom, but very, very shallow at the top) designed to be placed up against the wall?

like this with a wall behind it?
Bookshelf_Cabinet_V1_Flip.png
 

JRS

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I have used winisd for sub modeling.

Arta for measurements (and you can even make a jig for driver specs)

Pcd for crossover design.

I have heard a lot of amazing diy designs, only build 2 from scratch so far.
Agree with the freeware winisd--if anyone knows of something more capable, please tell.
 

JRS

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Looking for just a primer on wave guide design--just something simple for a ribbon tweeter running from 2k up. Like will just a straight taper do as I've seen used commercially?
 

Tom Danley

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Looking for just a primer on wave guide design--just something simple for a ribbon tweeter running from 2k up. Like will just a straight taper do as I've seen used commercially?
The up side simple answer yes you can make something simple...BUT the reason is one can put any driver on any horn and sound will come out. Horns do two basic things, they confine the radiation to a smaller encompassed angle than that driver as a point source AND they can significantly raise the efficiency of the driver.
BOTH of these things increase the SPL per Watt on axis.

Since the efficiency part is not only tied to the driver electromechanical parameters but also it's physical size related to the wavelength where the gain in efficiency stops when the radiator is approximately K=1 (approximately 1 WL in circumference), the gain on axis using a horn will be from the directivity.

There is a thumb rule formula, that Don Keele came up with long ago that describes the frequency at which a horn's mouth looses control of the pattern. 10^6 / horn wall angle / dimension in inches.

Enter pattern flip, a little discussed issue with horns.
Google an EV t-35 or t-350 horn.

This is a tweeter and by looking at it, the obvious way to mount it is to be wide horizontally and narrow vertically and this is how most were mounted.
On the other hand, because of "pattern flip", the correct way to mount it is up and down because below about 10KHz, the pattern was "flipped" to the opposite of what it looks like.

The problem is MANY horns were made that way and some still are and there is a danger in adding a horn to your ribbon unless you avoid this misbehavior.
You have a source which by itself will become narrower in the vertical as the frequency increases but has little directivity in the horizontal.
Don's formula also puts one in the ball park here. So lets say one had a 12 inch ribbon and what is the approximate vertical pattern angle at 15Khz? By substituting frequency and dimension you get angle of 5.5 degrees.

The problem one has is not up high but lower down where you loose pattern control.
So lets say your crossover is 1KHz and the ribbon is 12 inches tall, now the radiation angle would be about 83 degrees.
So here is where you want to end up. The source is large enough to confine the vertical radiation angle at 1 KHz to about 83 degrees, this means there is no point in having a horn 83 degrees or more and one could use the horn to maintain a smaller vertical angle..

For fun, lets say your vertical horn wall angle is 40 degrees so for the first octave, you have horn controlled vertical.

To avoid pattern flip one needs the dimension of the H and V to be correct and it's an inconvenient relationship.

Lets say your V angle is 40 degrees and your H angle is (to make it easy) 80 degrees. To avoid pattern flip, the horn mouth needs to be twice the height of the mouth width (and exactly the opposite proportions of the t-35 horn). This you can figure this shape out with some paper and protractor.

The up side if this is the throat into the final flare is a slot shape which you happen to have.

One can follow the "rules" and avoid pattern flip and make something with even a 10:1 difference in pattern angles and not have interference, here is a speaker with 10 degrees of vertical, the "how" explained by Doug Jones (made the LEDR recordings).



An impromptu recording of an early SBH-10


Hope that helps
Tom
 

Gorgonzola

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Despite its age, as long as they keep updating the driver database, will continue with Bassbox. My next project will likely use PCD or Vituix for system design. Really depends on whether the speaker is active or passive or a hybrid.
I've owned BassBox Pro for years and find it convenient and easy -- I think continuing to use it is a reasonable choice and I'd do the same.

I have also owned and used X-over Pro, also from HarrisTech, for years. It is easy and convenient to use but ultimately too limited when it comes to things like adding filters to basic designs. I think I'll try Vituix for my next crossover design if/when I ever do another.
 

JRS

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The up side simple answer yes you can make something simple...BUT the reason is one can put any driver on any horn and sound will come out. Horns do two basic things, they confine the radiation to a smaller encompassed angle than that driver as a point source AND they can significantly raise the efficiency of the driver.
BOTH of these things increase the SPL per Watt on axis.

Since the efficiency part is not only tied to the driver electromechanical parameters but also it's physical size related to the wavelength where the gain in efficiency stops when the radiator is approximately K=1 (approximately 1 WL in circumference), the gain on axis using a horn will be from the directivity.

There is a thumb rule formula, that Don Keele came up with long ago that describes the frequency at which a horn's mouth looses control of the pattern. 10^6 / horn wall angle / dimension in inches.

Enter pattern flip, a little discussed issue with horns.
Google an EV t-35 or t-350 horn.

This is a tweeter and by looking at it, the obvious way to mount it is to be wide horizontally and narrow vertically and this is how most were mounted.
On the other hand, because of "pattern flip", the correct way to mount it is up and down because below about 10KHz, the pattern was "flipped" to the opposite of what it looks like.

The problem is MANY horns were made that way and some still are and there is a danger in adding a horn to your ribbon unless you avoid this misbehavior.
You have a source which by itself will become narrower in the vertical as the frequency increases but has little directivity in the horizontal.
Don's formula also puts one in the ball park here. So lets say one had a 12 inch ribbon and what is the approximate vertical pattern angle at 15Khz? By substituting frequency and dimension you get angle of 5.5 degrees.

The problem one has is not up high but lower down where you loose pattern control.
So lets say your crossover is 1KHz and the ribbon is 12 inches tall, now the radiation angle would be about 83 degrees.
So here is where you want to end up. The source is large enough to confine the vertical radiation angle at 1 KHz to about 83 degrees, this means there is no point in having a horn 83 degrees or more and one could use the horn to maintain a smaller vertical angle..

For fun, lets say your vertical horn wall angle is 40 degrees so for the first octave, you have horn controlled vertical.

To avoid pattern flip one needs the dimension of the H and V to be correct and it's an inconvenient relationship.

Lets say your V angle is 40 degrees and your H angle is (to make it easy) 80 degrees. To avoid pattern flip, the horn mouth needs to be twice the height of the mouth width (and exactly the opposite proportions of the t-35 horn). This you can figure this shape out with some paper and protractor.

The up side if this is the throat into the final flare is a slot shape which you happen to have.

One can follow the "rules" and avoid pattern flip and make something with even a 10:1 difference in pattern angles and not have interference, here is a speaker with 10 degrees of vertical, the "how" explained by Doug Jones (made the LEDR recordings).



An impromptu recording of an early SBH-10


Hope that helps
Tom
Tom.
So that was very helpful; thank you for taking the time to answer. I do have a couple of follow up questions if I may:
1) The tweeters are quite efficient at 102 db/W (so of no concern) and the enclosures themselves are closed back, about 8" by 4" and the membrane itself is 6" x 0.6". Attached is a pic of the enclosure which shows the fairly deep recess of the membrane. If I were to construct a wave guide, should I try to get it to start below the recess as close to the ribbon as possible? Or is it OK to just start the guide at the plate?

2) Given it's a ribbon and a small line source, is it possible to improve the vertical dispersion, and if so what angle should the vertical angle be. I'm an old goat and not having dance parties, so we are really looking at serving a loveseat sized sweet-spot.

3) Ok it's a few questions. ;) Since things are active/DSP and I can use steep filters, I have the luxury of an octave wide range of 1.5 to 3k to XO to the 7" Audio Technology C-Quenze. I have been splitting the middle at 2200Hz, hoping that beaming isn't too bad there (unfortunately not able to make detailed msmts yet). Do I simply find the frequency where say (using our 90 degree example) the off axis response starts to get flaky measured 45 degrees off axis. And finally, I want to verify that in this case, the guide doesn't have to be very deep--I recall seeing an eqn relating the perimeter of the guide to Fc (so as to be in the velocity domain) and estimated close to 4".

I really appreciate your expertise and know that there are no hard and fast rules, but just want to make sure my thinking is clear on this.
Cheers.
 

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Aemartin

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Hi Rick,

I don’t focus too much on F3 to be honest, not much port resonance cashing dips in frequency response. The sonic consequences much less than the visual consequences.

There’s a few reasons for this for the latter, in the former, Toole et. al found that F3 has little to do with sonic preferences, but the anechoic F10 does. This is probably due to the way a speaker in an indoor environment interacts with the room, Schroeder frequency etc,

I think historically F3 was used because it was easier math in the days of slide rulers…

What really matter in the 21st century (cheap ASP/DSP and small high power amplification) is excursion limited SPL, and the Purifi 6.5 has that in spades.

Cleaner and louder than the 15W/8530K00 and SEAS W18 or ScanSpeak 18W … and in a smaller box.

you really need to spend 50% to 100% more (SEAS W19NX or ScanSpeak 18WE) to be comparable
tktran, I'd be interested to learn more about how you have used the Purifi 6.5. I.e. enclosure type and any performance data you might have. Thanks.
 
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