Tonearm adjustment

[Peppy]

So I recently setup my turntable Pro-Ject Perspective, the oldest model, and I'm having an issue with playing the end of records due to the tonearm hitting this outer bearing ring where the poorly drawn red circle is.

Is there a way to move this ring beside ordering the special tool to adjust the VAT screw at the top where the even worse drawn green arrow is?

If you are wondering what the white thing is, it's a piece of paper I put there to help see the area since it's black on black, but the flash lit the area fine without it.

 

[Redacted]

The special tool you're thinking about looks like it is a hex bit that fits any hex screwdrivers that normally use the various cross-head or blades bits. You can buy small sets of "security" hex bits for next to nothing that may include the 2-prong bit you need. Or use needle nose pliers.

I'm not entirely sure you're looking at the right thing to adjust the arm though. I think it's the inner collar around the tone arm that is out of alignment.

 

[Peppy]

Even my smallest pair of needle nose pliers wouldn't fit. I even tried 2 ends of a paper clip held by pliers, but it wouldn't turn it.

Turntable labs sells a cheap plastic version of that tool for $10. Just wasn't sure if that's actually what I needed to adjust.

 

[JP]

Don’t mess with that screw. It doesn’t hold the ring, rather it’s the pivot for the horizontal bearing. If you want to rotate the outer ring you’ll likely need to rotate the arm base.

 

[Redacted]

Look again - I think you trying to adjust the wrong collar.

 

[Redacted]

Don’t mess with that screw. It doesn’t hold the ring, rather it’s the pivot for the horizontal bearing. If you want to rotate the outer ring you’ll likely need to rotate the arm base.

Yes it's the bearing carrier. The inner collar is set wrongly. Looks like a cross-head screw to loosen for adjustment?

 

[Redacted]

The thing has been subject to some force or the screw is loose!

 

[Palmer]

Methinks in the base, there are two screws - to be able to adjust the VTA of the arm. Since the post of the assembly is a cylinder - you loose those, not only can it go up or down - it can also be rotated. Not sure what head those set-screws are, but if one finds out and gets the right tool - and is careful it can be done. Calm and collected I would recommend.

 

[Peppy]

Yep, that was it. I had previously adjusted the height of the arm, didn't realize that it can also rotate the arm position. Picture below shows the gap that's to big on the left side.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Redacted]

Yes - I forgot the arm has to go up and down too!

 

[Peppy]

A few adjustments later and I can finally hear the end of records.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[MaxwellsEq]

Check your cantilever has not been bent by having the tonearm not be able to complete the inner grooves.

 

[Redacted]

Check your cantilever has not been bent by having the tonearm not be able to complete the inner grooves.

Yes those needles can get stuck in grooves and can apply massive forces to tone arms which are made of rice paper.

 

[DSJR]

Do PLEASE remember, these decks are very delicate and frail, due to keeping the price low. I had fun and games last month re-wiring an Essential mk1 with Unipivot arm, the latter good in principle but SO easily damaged and wires ripped when the arm-top flies off in a badly prepared transit situation. Analogue Seduction in the UK has a whole page of Pro-Ject spares. Replacement arm bearing cups are available however if originals get damaged, but if the arm can move freely in both planes with minimal slop, I'd leave well alone.

[dealer hat back on] - Those cartridge screws look disgusting!!! Nice 2.5mm stainless steel Allen bolts and keys can easily be got and look so much better. Also, if the counterweight really is strung out the back to set the downforce, heavier ones can be got to bring the mass nearer the pivots and keep minimal inertia. I'm a fan of the Ortofon 2M cartridges too and Pro-Ject tonearms do seem to like them as well (subjectively punchier bass than the lean-toned OM models many Pro-Jects come/came with)

 

[Peppy]

SO easily damaged and wires ripped when the arm-top flies off in a badly prepared transit situation.

Funny/not so funny story.... Many years ago, my father sold this turntable when he upgraded. It was sent back and we had to refund the person because when it was shipped we forgot about removing the counterweight and the very back of the tonearm where the counterweight goes snapped off.... It was put in a closet where it sat for years. After father passed i found it and after a great deal of trial and error I was able to reattach it straight looking good as new. Luckily the only other damage was a couple light scuffs on the acrylic plinth and a good small ding in the dust cover.

if the counterweight really is strung out the back to set the downforce, heavier ones can be got to bring the mass nearer the pivots and keep minimal inertia.

I do have a heavier counterweight, i'll try swapping them when i have some time.

 

[DSJR]

Just noticed - the finger lift is upside down. It should stand up a little once it leaves the headshell.... Hope you got the thing sorted. A full replacement tonearm isn't silly money (makes you wonder how some makers charge thousands, I reckon) as long as you can solder the fine trailing tonearm wires to the connector or terminals depending on model.