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Thoughts on power conditioners?

solderdude

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A cable that is rated for 10A is rated for continuous power, this is about 1250W continuous.
peak currents may well reach far beyond that. It is about heat and continuous power that determines the 10A (average) rating.
It would even be sufficient for a 2kW amplifier as continuous it will never ever reach the 1250W.

Nothing to worry about.
 

DonH56

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I have not been following this thread but re. power-line filters in general:
  • Current demands for power amplifiers can be quite broadband and rather large. The transformer in a conventional supply will limit it somewhat but SMPS can place higher-bandwidth current demands on the line.
  • Inductors exhibit hysteresis (asymmetric response) and when significantly over-driven (too much current) can themselves exhibit large voltage and current excursions (spikes, glitches) with pretty nasty waveforms that generate a lot of noise. Transformers are also inductors, natch.
  • DC resistance (DCR) will add voltage (IR) drop on the power line so high-current lines require low-DCR inductors.
  • It is typical in my world to select inductors rated 2x or more the peak dynamic current expected in the circuit.
  • Many cheap power-line filters in power strips are marginal at best for high-power amplifiers. Charging the power supply (decoupling) capacitors can require fast, high-current pulses well above what the power output to the speakers may indicate.
  • As an aside, many cheap strips (and expensive ones) use metal-oxide varistors (MOVs) to limit voltage spikes. These have limited ability to handle spikes and limited lifetime. I'd bet there are a lot of 5-10 year old power strips with bad MOVs. Even the working ones often have a very high let-through voltage; years ago I measured a cheap strip and it would allow short spikes of ~3 kV to pass. A good strip was <1 kV (industrial unit rated at 600 V let-through; note a 120 Vrms wall outlet is about 339 Vpp).
I generally don't use line filters on my power amps, and am of the opinion that decent electronics have such high power-supply isolation that they are not needed on low-level components, either. My area is subject to fairly frequent power outages so I do use UPS units on most of my more expensive and critical electronics such as computers and A/V equipment. I also have a "pure-sine" (expensive) UPS on my aquarium to keep the filter and air pumps going -- motors can overheat with inexpensive UPS units having very coarse (high-distortion) output.

IME/IMO -- I am not a power expert. - Don
 

Gabiv

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As ohers said already, you need an AVR, a voltage stabilizer. I have APC Line-R and an Apollo AVR at home, which uses microcontroller and power relays combined with an autotransformer, but I also have step motor autotransformer that adjusts the output voltage in real time in very small steps. I also have an electronic power outlet with a relay inside that cuts off output power if input power is outside normal limits (in my case: >210V & <250V).

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Hope this helps.

P.S.: I also have a Schneider iMSU that protects all home appliances from really big power surges/overvoltages, but also in case Null diconnectes (Phase could get returned from nearby houses).
Hi! I have the same motherboard. My r10 resistor has blow up. Can you give me a photo with that resistor or tell me what value it have?
 

trl

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