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The Rythmik G22 is discontinued, what are my options?

marked sound said:
How big are they and how much power do they draw? When ever i see the number 15 i get scared.
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Why the concern on power draw? Are you limited by your home electrical system? As to size, you can check exact dimensions on web site. Note I think they also have same sub in 12” version
 
Here is a dual 12", but I would still take the Sigberg for better numbers through the 40-200hz range. Power draw shouldn't be an issue with most subs but sealed will allways need DSP to extend the response below 20hz anechoic which requires more power than a ported design.
 
MKR said:
Why the concern on power draw? Are you limited by your home electrical system? As to size, you can check exact dimensions on web site. Note I think they also have same sub in 12” version
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my houses electrical is quite old im afraid.
 
marked sound said:
How big are they and how much power do they draw? When ever i see the number 15 i get scared.
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Large speakers and drivers are not intrinsically harder to drive than small speakers. Actually the opposite.
Larger drivers need less power than smaller drivers to get the same output, all other things being equal.
Here are three similar drivers, all loaded into sealed cabinets with the with Q(TC) = 0.8:
1778870405956.png

If you want the sub that is easiest on your electrical system, the 15" is 2dB more efficient above 80 Hz than the 12" and 3dB more efficient than the 10". The 15" has about twice the cone area as the 10" and has similar electrical characteristics, so it's no surprise that it is twice as easy to drive (half the power).

Below 80 Hz the smaller woofers roll off earlier, so if you were to EQ these to the same response the differences in power requirements would be even more dramatic, making the larger woofer even easier to get the same response.

Also, larger membrane area means the woofer isn't working as hard with the same signal, lowering distortion which is directly related to excursion.

Comment on opposed subs. Opposed subs help with self-vibration. A dual-opposed 10" will have roughly the same output as a single 15" (same membrane area). I find placing multiple subs to deal with room modes way more important than the force-cancelation of dual-opposed. Don't get me wrong, I have been building opposed passive radiator subs for ages since the drone cones can get a sub vibrating unless opposed drones are used (the drones typically use lots of added mass in a PR system). It's just not the biggest deal especially with subs which have effective mass much lower than drones.

I modeled sealed subs above. Ported systems will scale the same way with larger woofers, with the added benefit of being even easier to drive than sealed to a given SPL due to the increased efficiency of the port's output.
 
With regards to easy to drive, the same also happens when adding drivers. Two 10" drivers will be 3dB more efficient than one.

Also, you will find 12" drivers that are more efficient than some 15". Put differently, all 12" drivers aren't more efficient than all 10" drivers.

So unfortunately, just by knowing the driver size of a commercial subwoofer, not much is known about the system efficiency nor the system capacity.
 
sigbergaudio said:
With regards to easy to drive, the same also happens when adding drivers. Two 10" drivers will be 3dB more efficient than one.

Also, you will find 12" drivers that are more efficient than some 15". Put differently, all 12" drivers aren't more efficient than all 10" drivers.

So unfortunately, just by knowing the driver size of a commercial subwoofer, not much is known about the system efficiency nor the system capacity.
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Yep:
MAB said:
Larger drivers need less power than smaller drivers to get the same output, all other things being equal.
Click to expand...
 
MAB said:
Larger drivers need less power than smaller drivers to get the same output, all other things being equal.
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't see that qualifier. So to be clear, not disagreeing with anything in your post. :)
 
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OP, are you stuck on it being a servo unit like the G22?

That is going to be a tall order, DOS and servo? Rare bird just by design.

I have 3, 12 DOS cabinet designs that I picked up from PE about 8 or 9 years ago. They were and are a great looking 2.75cf Rectangle 1.5" thick select MDF cabinet made in Germany, I believe. Very nice looking cabinet.

1st: I'm running a double-active driver with a 1200-watt DSP PE plate that they had off and on for a few years. Works pretty well and would work as good, if not better, because it has a lot of goodies in the software it uses on that plate. (LOUD)

2nd: I have one that I set up with 1 active UM10"-I, and dual 12" HIGH compliant passives and a passive hookup. I used a DCX2496 and a NU12,000S. That is a heck of a sub. Same 2.75cf cabinet (DEEP)

3rd: I set up the 3rd one with their 1000watt A/B/G plate. One active UM12 I and a CSS medium-compliant 12" passive that is tuned with external washers and soft putty. Easy to mechanically-tune to any room and is good for 18Hz. It takes about 2 hours to set it up in a new room. You add washers until you get boom, then remove the last washer, add putty, and pinch putty until the boom just goes away. You get the lowest possible octave that works with the amp, cables, and drivers you picked. (set the mechanical damping)

All 3 have some very robust qualities and are easy to adapt.

But as I mentioned, 12" DOS servos, I have never seen one before in 45 years of DIY or otherwise. BUT I wasn't lookin' either. Velodyne was pretty popular for the audiophile crowd in the 1970s to 2000s. They had both 12 and 15" servo units that ran on accelerometers, vs a feedback loop.

GR has dual 12" OB servos that are pretty darn good. I have 3 sets of 12"doubles. A lot trickier to set up, though, BUT they have nice onboard rumble filters that work very well for playing LPs. Rythmik 370AB/baffel step plates. (mod for OB), dual 12" long throw servo 4, 8, 16 ohm drivers. Friggin' tough drivers and plates. Mine are 9 years old, never had a single problem. All the parts are still in stock after 10+ years at either GR or Rythmik. They are all about having what is in stock, just so you know, and being patient. Both companies stay pretty darn busy.

Hope ya find something, good luck.

Regards.
 
marked sound said:
It's the permium that worries me lol
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If you're dead set on those specific parameters, dual opposed and servo, you could diy it with the Rythmik drives with their amp. I had Velodyne subs and never felt the servo made much difference. After 2 amp failures, I just powered one with an external amp and never could tell the difference from the other.
 
WerT said:
Perlisten have cheaper subs with the push pull thing
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Others have been suggested to the OP, he seems uninterested in them except the Sigberg Audio 10D, which he calls a small niche sub (in room response will be similar to the G22).
 
Last edited:
I have two Sigberg 10Ds and find their output just fine for music in a medium size room. I was concerned about the power draw, but that has turned out not to be an issue; they draw a small amp load, can’t remember the number, but Sigberg can tell you.
 
Everett T said:
Others have been suggested to the OP, he seems uninterested in them except the Sigberg Audio 10D, which he calls a small niche sub (in room response will be similar to the G22).
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Fair enough. I too wanted a g22 rythmik but you can't get them in Australia easily. I ended up with Perlisten R210s - it is very good, able to keep up with my open baffles, 1.3kw power, twin 10inch woofers in push pull that cancels out the 2nd harmonic distortion. Was $3.5k aud on sale
 
rf1938 said:
I have two Sigberg 10Ds and find their output just fine for music in a medium size room. I was concerned about the power draw, but that has turned out not to be an issue; they draw a small amp load, can’t remember the number, but Sigberg can tell you.
Click to expand...

650W max per subwoofer, but in reality/practice it will be much lower than that most of the time.
 
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